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Is Kenyan coffee's acidity a strength or a weakness? An analysis of the fruity notes brought by washed processing

March 12, 2020
qj

Kenyan coffee occupies a very special place in the global specialty coffee landscape—some are captivated by it, while others find it hard to accept. Its vivid and complex acidity, paired with a full body and layered depth, draws countless coffee enthusiasts. This article starts from the Kenya Asali AA Top Little Tomato coffee beans currently sold by Front Street Coffee, and delves into the sources of Kenyan coffee's flavor—the high-altitude growing environment, the mineral nourishment of volcanic soil, and the characteristics of the two classic varieties SL28 and SL34. At the same time, Front Street Coffee will also share the standard brewing parameters and techniques for this bean, helping you consistently recreate that cup of Kenyan flavor with distinct layers and intertwined sweetness and acidity at home.

肯尼亚咖啡酸味是优点还是缺点?水洗处理带来的水果调性解析

For more specialty coffee knowledge, please follow our WeChat official account: Front Street Coffee (FrontStreet Coffee)

When ranking the world's top coffee-producing regions, there are not many origins that can repeatedly make the top ranks. Front Street Coffee believes that Kenya is one of them. Although Kenya's history of coffee cultivation is not particularly long compared with many countries, its complete production and sales chain, together with a cultivation model dominated by smallholder farmers, has become a key driving force for the industry's rapid development. Kenya's coffee-growing areas are mainly distributed across the highlands and hilly regions around Mount Kenya.

Front Street Coffee believes that Kenyan coffee is a bean with highly polarized reviews—those who love it go crazy for it, while those who are not interested avoid it. Front Street Coffee believes that Kenyan coffee can rank among the top tier of specialty coffee because its overall performance is full, and its flavor is delicate and richly layered. None of this is a coincidence; Kenyan growers possess many unique advantages, whether in terms of an ideal natural environment or mature commercial operation strategies. Today, taking Little Tomato coffee beans as an example, Front Street Coffee will guide everyone to a deeper understanding of the unique charm of Kenyan coffee culture.

Since opening its shop, Front Street Coffee has acquired quite a few Kenyan coffees. In Front Street Coffee's view, Kenyan beans are not only outstanding in quality, but also one of the most common single-origin coffees on the market. Currently, there is only one Kenyan coffee on Front Street Coffee's bean list, called "Little Tomato." Just from the name, you can probably guess the direction of its flavor. Below is the specific information for Front Street Coffee's Kenya Little Tomato coffee beans:

[Kenya Asali AA Top Little Tomato]

Country: Kenya

Region: Thika

Washing Station: Asali Washing Station

Altitude: 1,550-1,750 meters

Soil: Volcanic soil

Varieties: SL28, SL34

Processing Method: 72-hour washed

What flavor characteristics does this bean have? What does it taste like? Friends familiar with coffee should know that Kenyan coffee is renowned for its full and balanced flavor and mouthfeel. However, beans from different regions will more or less have subtle differences, with the specific performance depending on the growing area, variety, and processing method.

Depending on varietal differences, the flavor can range from blackcurrant and other berry notes all the way to citrus fruits. Front Street Coffee (FrontStreet Coffee)'s Asali coffee beans have a medium body, rich caramel-like sweetness, very bright acidity, a faint Little Tomato note, a relatively prominent dark plum character, and high overall cleanliness. Among the Kenyan coffees Front Street Coffee received recently, only a faint Little Tomato flavor could be captured. Front Street Coffee believes this phenomenon is mainly related to recent changes in the soil properties of Kenyan producing regions. The prominent acidity of Kenyan coffee is also one of the important reasons why many coffee enthusiasts are obsessed with it. Front Street Coffee believes this is inseparable from the producing region's high-altitude conditions and volcanic soil.

肯尼亚咖啡酸味是优点还是缺点?水洗处理带来的水果调性解析

The Relationship Between Altitude and Coffee Bean Flavor

It is generally accepted in the industry that the higher the altitude at which coffee is grown, the better the quality tends to be. In fact, some countries (such as Honduras, El Salvador, etc.) directly grade coffee based on altitude, with higher altitudes receiving higher grades. What is the reason behind this? Front Street Coffee explains it here: the higher the altitude, the lower the temperature. Like many things in life, growing good coffee cannot be rushed. When temperatures are lower, coffee beans grow more slowly, and the fruit surrounding them matures more slowly as well.

This extra time allows the coffee fruit to develop complex flavors. The more slowly coffee grows, the denser the beans and the more outstanding the taste. High-altitude areas usually also mean better drainage conditions. Smooth drainage reduces the moisture content in coffee, thereby concentrating sugars and flavors. In addition, coffee trees grown at high altitudes are less susceptible to pests and diseases (such as widespread coffee leaf rust), and the crop has fewer defects, which is also a factor in improving overall quality.

The Relationship Between Volcanic Soil and Coffee Bean Flavor

Volcanoes bring many benefits to plant growth. Volcanic soil is rich in nutrients and contains multiple minerals, providing an extremely fertile soil environment for coffee cultivation. Among them, nutrients needed for coffee to thrive, such as phosphorus, potassium, boron, iron, and zinc, can all be found in volcanic soil. Volcanic soil is light and loose in texture, with good drainage. In addition to the soil itself, volcanoes also provide shade for coffee trees, further slowing the ripening speed of coffee cherries. At the same time, volcanoes bring high altitude and microclimates, allowing coffee to grow well in many respects.

Friends familiar with Front Street Coffee (FrontStreet Coffee) will notice that the Kenyan bean varieties listed on Front Street Coffee's packaging differ from those of other producing countries—they are written as SL28 and SL34, which sound like robot code names. In fact, SL stands for Scott Laboratories, the name of the research institution that first cultivated these varieties in Kenya in the 1930s. Although the "official" SL varieties recognized by the World Coffee Research organization number more than these three, SL28 and SL34 are the most highly regarded in the specialty coffee field. Recent research has proven that this series of coffees is related to the Bourbon genome.

肯尼亚咖啡酸味是优点还是缺点?水洗处理带来的水果调性解析

The SL-28 tree is tall, with green leaf tips, high yield, and excellent cup quality. They have very low nutrient requirements and strong drought tolerance, but are susceptible to coffee leaf rust, coffee berry disease (CBD), and soil nematodes. SL-28 trees begin bearing large cherries after three years, and if managed properly, their "milling loss" is very low (that is, the ratio of parchment to green beans is appropriate). In comparison, SL-34 trees are structurally similar to SL-28.

The most important visual difference between the two is that SL-34 has dark bronze leaf tips rather than green ones. SL-34 has higher nutrient requirements and slightly lower yield. Very similar to SL-28, they are likewise susceptible to CBD, leaf rust, and pest damage. SL varieties have been grown in Kenya for decades, have existed longer than the country's other popular coffee varieties, and are naturally adapted to local climatic conditions. Today, it is estimated that the SL series varieties account for 80% of all Kenyan coffee exports.

Kenyan coffee is not easy to brew well. Many of Front Street Coffee's customers have reported after buying beans and taking them home that the result was either too sour or too bitter, completely unlike the taste they had in the shop. Front Street Coffee hereby provides the shop's standard brewing recipe:

Front Street Coffee (FrontStreet Coffee)'s brewing parameters:

V60 dripper

Water temperature 91°C

Water-to-coffee ratio 1:15

Dose 15g

Grind size (80% passing through China standard No. 20 sieve)

Front Street Coffee's brewing method: First bloom with 30 grams of water for 30 seconds, then pour in a small stream in circles until 125 grams, at which point divide the pour; when the water level drops and is about to expose the coffee bed, continue pouring until 225 grams and stop; when the water level drops again and is about to expose the coffee bed, remove the dripper. The extraction time (starting timing from the bloom) is 2 minutes 00 seconds. Using this standard as a reference and then adjusting according to your own taste preferences, you can find a brewing method that suits you. With more practice at home, everyone will definitely be able to brew a delicious cup of Kenyan coffee.

The above content is compiled by CoffeeHunters, a coffee news website.

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