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Kenya Coffee Flavor, Grading and SOE Brewing Explained

August 31, 2016
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Why does Kenya coffee taste so bright and berry-like?

Kenya coffee is defined by clean, bright berry acidity, caramel-like sweetness and a slight bitterness in the finish, which suits pour-over, Americano and soe coffee. The acidity comes from red volcanic soil, the SL28 and SL34 varieties, and the K72 washed process, a long fermentation and soaking routine that sharpens clarity.

The article reviews Kenya's coffee history, main growing regions and grading standards, then walks through pour-over parameters and the SOE preparation process for Front Street Kenya Asalia beans. Coffee reached Kenya in the late nineteenth century, and the Kenya Coffee Board was set up in 1933, followed by an auction system in 1934 that still operates.

Kenyan coffee is renowned for its bright, clean berry acidity, combined with caramel-like sweetness and a slight bitterness, making it suitable for various extraction methods such as pour-over, Americano, and SOE. From the perspective of Front Street Coffee (FrontStreet Coffee), this article systematically reviews the cultivation history, main production regions, and grading standards of Kenyan coffee, and deeply analyzes the causes of its signature acidity—red volcanic soil, SL28 and SL34 varieties, and the unique K72 washed processing method. In addition, the article provides a detailed demonstration of the pour-over parameters and SOE preparation process for Front Street Kenya Asalia coffee beans, offering coffee enthusiasts a complete reference from theory to practice.

Kenya Coffee Flavor Characteristics and Grade Classification: Berry-Like Acidity from Washed Processing and SOE Preparation Methods

Front Street Kenya coffee presents bold berry acidity on the palate, with caramel-like sweetness in the mid-palate and a slight bitterness in the finish, giving it a rich and layered overall flavor profile, making it suitable for a variety of coffee beverages such as Kenyan Americano and Kenyan pour-over coffee. Next, Front Street Coffee (FrontStreet Coffee) will guide everyone through a deeper understanding of Kenyan coffee beans.

History

It is widely known that coffee originated in Ethiopia. Although Kenya borders Ethiopia, its coffee cultivation history is not particularly long. There are mainly two theories regarding the origin of coffee cultivation in Kenya:

One widely held view is that coffee was brought to Kenya by priests of the Holy Spirit Order in the late nineteenth century. The more common account is that in 1893, French Holy Spirit priests brought coffee to Kenya from Réunion Island (also known as Bourbon Island, where Bourbon coffee was discovered); some also believe it was introduced from Ethiopia.

Another account comes from an article titled Coffees from Africa and Arabia: Kenya Coffee, published in 2001 by Kenneth Davids, founder of Coffee Review, which mentions that coffee was introduced to Kenya by the British around 1900.

What can be confirmed is that Kenya became a British colony in 1895 and was designated as part of the "East Africa Protectorate." During this period, the British controlled agriculture in the region, including coffee cultivation. In 1933, the Kenya Coffee Board was established. In 1934, the auction system was created and is still in use today. It was not until the 1960s that Kenyans began to have the right to independently cultivate and process coffee.

In the late 1980s, Kenyan coffee reached its peak, with annual production reaching 130,000 tons. However, in recent years, the Kenyan coffee industry has shown signs of decline, with annual production at only around 40,000 tons. Fortunately, Kenyan authorities have formulated a coffee revitalization plan to rescue the declining state of the country's coffee industry.

Production Regions

After consulting James Hoffmann's book The World Atlas of Coffee, Front Street Coffee (FrontStreet Coffee) learned that most of Kenya's coffee comes from the central production regions of the country, and the highest-quality coffees also originate from there.

Among Kenya's 14 coffee production regions, coffees from Kiambu and Muranga have bright acidity and a full body; coffees from Nyeri present bright blackberry flavors and a heavy, oily mouthfeel, along with citrus and even floral notes; coffees from Kirinyaga exhibit bright fruit acidity, a medium body, and delicate sweetness; coffees from Embu have moderate acidity, a balanced and clear flavor, and a surprisingly pleasant finish; coffees from Machakos feature refreshing fruit acidity, a delicate flavor, a moderate mouthfeel, and a delicate, fresh finish; and coffees from Kisii and Elgon have solid sweetness and a mild flavor.

Grading System

When ordering Kenyan coffee at a café, as long as you pay attention to the grade label, it is not hard to notice the letters AA. Front Street Coffee (FrontStreet Coffee) baristas are also often asked by coffee enthusiasts who are just starting out: Is Kenya AA the highest grade? How are the grades distinguished?

Kenyan coffee beans are roughly divided into eight grades based on bean size: E, PB, AA, AB, C, TT, T, MH/ML.

Front Street Coffee (FrontStreet Coffee) would like to emphasize here: the grade of coffee beans is determined before roasting, so do not think about sieving and grading roasted coffee beans afterward.

Kenya Coffee Flavor Characteristics and Grade Classification: Berry-Like Acidity from Washed Processing and SOE Preparation Methods

E: Kenyan E is called Elephant Bean, large in size, with relatively low production.

PB: The English name for PB is Peaberry, commonly known as round bean, elliptical in shape. Normal coffee cherries contain two coffee seeds, while peaberries contain only one seed.

AA: Kenya AA can be said to be the most common grade, relatively large in size, with a screen size of 17/18.

AB: Screen size of 16/17.

C: Screen size below 14.

TT: Large screen size but low density; quality is sufficient to be classified as specialty coffee.

T: Below 14 screen size, small beans, density and quality insufficient to be classified as specialty coffee.

MH/ML: Low-quality natural beans, mostly overripe beans dried on the tree.

Why Are Kenyan Coffee Beans So Acidic?

When coffee enthusiasts ask for "the most acidic bean you have," Front Street Coffee (FrontStreet Coffee) baristas will first recommend the Kenya Asalia on the menu. Kenya's acidity is bright and clean, which is also considered a characteristic flavor of Kenyan coffee.

Front Street Coffee (FrontStreet Coffee): Kenya Asalia Coffee Beans

Region: Thika, Kenya

Altitude: 1550m—1750m

Processing Method: K72 Washed Processing

Varieties: SL28, SL34

To delve into the source of Kenyan coffee beans' acidity, one must mention Kenya's local growing environment, coffee varieties, and processing methods.

The red volcanic soil in which Kenyan coffee is grown contains large amounts of phosphoric acid. In addition, the two coffee varieties commonly found in Kenya, SL28 and SL34, are Bourbon variants. Through cupping multiple Kenyan coffee beans, Front Street has also found that the berry acidity in SL28 and SL34 is particularly prominent.

The reason Kenyan coffee has such a clean and bright flavor is thanks to Kenya's unique post-processing method—the Kenyan 72-hour washed processing method, also known as the K72 washed processing method.

After the coffee cherries are depulped, the parchment beans with mucilage still attached are placed in a fermentation tank without water for dry fermentation, with water introduced every 6—8 hours to wash and scrub the parchment beans and drain, repeating the dry fermentation. This stage takes 24 hours.

Kenya Coffee Flavor Characteristics and Grade Classification: Berry-Like Acidity from Washed Processing and SOE Preparation Methods

In the second stage, the fermentation tank is not filled to the brim with water, and fermentation continues for 12—24 hours. Then the beans are manually directed into washing channels, where most of the mucilage is removed through stirring.

The second stage repeats the fermentation process once more, this time filling the fermentation tank more fully with water, followed by a second fermentation in clean water. The second soaking lasts 12—24 hours, during which the small amount of residual sugar and mucilage on the surface of the parchment beans continues to ferment and is finally removed. Finally, the coffee beans are moved to drying beds for sun drying.

Front Street believes that coffee beans that have undergone the Kenyan 72-hour washed processing can achieve a cleaner, brighter, yet fuller flavor.

Front Street's brewing parameters for the Kenya Asalia coffee beans are as follows:

Dripper: Hario V60

Water Temperature: 90℃—93℃

Dose: 15 grams

Coffee-to-Water Ratio: 1:15

Grind Size: EK43s #10 (80% passing through China Standard No. 20 sieve)

Front Street uses a three-stage pouring technique: use 30 grams of water for a 30-second bloom, then pour in a circular motion to 125 grams in the second stage, and when the water level drops to the point where the coffee bed is about to be exposed, continue pouring to 225 grams and stop. Once the coffee liquid has fully drained into the server, remove the dripper. Total extraction time is 2 minutes.

When it comes to enjoying single-origin coffee, besides pour-over, SOE has become increasingly popular in coffee shops in recent years and has become one of the extraction methods many people make at home. Regarding the above Kenya coffee beans with rich fruit flavors, some customers have asked Front Street whether they can be made into SOE Americano or SOE Latte. The answer is beyond doubt—of course, no problem.

In Front Street's view, a good SOE first depends on good beans, then a roast level suitable for espresso machines, and finally ideal extraction and presentation. The so-called "suitable roast" here is reflected in three requirements for SOE: first, preserving the "taste of place" of the production region; second, giving the resulting espresso a good balance; and a crucial point—providing the maker with higher extraction stability. Otherwise, either the coffee tastes bad or lacks any SOE characteristics, or the extraction difficulty is too high, and by the time the whole bag of beans is used up, you still haven't dialed in a satisfactory cup of SOE coffee.

Below, Front Street uses the equipment available in the store as a reference, using the Kenya Asalia coffee beans introduced above to demonstrate how to make an SOE.

Kenya Coffee Flavor Characteristics and Grade Classification: Berry-Like Acidity from Washed Processing and SOE Preparation Methods

The coffee machine at Front Street's store is a commercial single-group "Lelit Bianca," which can adjust extraction by changing pressure, with a maximum pressure of 11 bar. Home coffee machines only need to reach 9 bar of pressure to satisfy the functions of extraction and milk frothing, paired with an espresso grinder.

Front Street uses a double basket capacity, with a dose of about 18–20 grams; Front Street uses 20 grams of coffee powder when producing. Typically, the ratio of coffee powder to coffee liquid is between 1:1.5 and 1:2.5, and Front Street's extraction ratio is 1:2, meaning 20 grams of coffee powder yields 40 grams of coffee liquid. Time is related to the flow rate of the coffee powder; generally, a single extraction time is controlled between 20 and 35 seconds, because within 20 seconds the coffee usually tastes thin, while exceeding 35 seconds tends to over-extract and produce astringent and burnt-bitter flavors. Front Street's espresso mostly falls within the range of 28–30 seconds.

Front Street first wipes the basket dry, turns on the grinder, grinds a double dose of coffee powder, places it on an electronic scale to adjust the amount up or down until it reaches 20 grams. Then use a tool to distribute the grounds evenly, tamp the coffee puck firmly to ensure more stable extraction. Then turn on the extraction switch to release water, moistening the brew head while washing away any stuck coffee grounds. Gently lock the portafilter onto the brew head and begin the extraction. When the electronic scale shows 40 grams of coffee liquid extracted at around 30 seconds, you can turn off the extraction switch. Pour the coffee liquid into an Espresso cup and enjoy.

Kenya Coffee Flavor Characteristics and Grade Classification: Berry-Like Acidity from Washed Processing and SOE Preparation Methods

The extracted Kenya Asalia SOE can be drunk directly, but the taste will be very intense, so remember to pair it with a glass of water to rinse your mouth. When tasting, you can perceive the light yellow crema and the berry, tomato, and cookie aromas of the coffee liquid beneath. If you cannot accept the strong bitterness of espresso, Front Street suggests adding ice water or warm water at a 1:4 ratio according to your preference to make a refreshing and mellow Kenyan SOE Americano, or adding steamed fresh milk at a 1:6 ratio to soften the mouthfeel, making a delicious cup of Kenyan SOE Latte.

The above content is compiled by CoffeeHunters, a coffee news website.

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