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Arabica Coffee Bean Guide: Indonesian Mandheling Varieties

May 22, 2016
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What Makes the Arabica Coffee Bean Behind Mandheling Distinct?

Mandheling belongs to the Arabica species and originally comes from the Mandailing region near the Bukit Barisan mountains in North Sumatra. It represents Asian coffee and stands out for a full body, low acidity, a long finish and herbal, woody, agarwood-like aromas. The classic wet-hulling process used in Sumatra shapes much of that heavy, earthy character.

Golden Mandheling is cleaner and fuller-bodied than ordinary Mandheling, with a better mouthfeel, which is why it is often chosen as a single-origin specialty option. The grade sits at the top of the local system, above standard Lintong lots from the GAYO highlands. Long associated with drinkers who favor heavy flavors, it now draws more female consumers each year.

Mandheling coffee is the representative of Asian coffee and the flagship variety of Indonesian coffee, famous for its full-bodied taste and herbal, woody, agarwood-like flavors. This article systematically reviews the origin distribution, variety classification, grading system, and processing method characteristics of Indonesian Mandheling coffee, and introduces in detail the Lintong Mandheling and PWN Golden Mandheling recommended by Front Street Coffee. From the GAYO highlands of Sumatra to PWN's strict quality control, from the unique process of wet-hulling to Front Street's brewing parameter suggestions, this takes you through every aspect of this classic coffee. Whether you are a beginner just getting into Indonesian coffee or a seasoned enthusiast pursuing specialty flavors, you will find valuable information here.

A Detailed Guide to Indonesian Mandheling Coffee Bean Varieties and Processing Methods: From Lintong to Golden Mandheling

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Mandheling coffee is the benchmark of Asian coffee and a typical representative of Indonesian coffee, with a unique aroma of herbs and woody agarwood, a full and rich mouthfeel, and a long finish. There used to be a saying that most consumers who prefer Mandheling are men, because its flavor is relatively heavy, while women tend to prefer the clean, refreshing coffee with floral and fruity acidity of Ethiopia. However, Front Street has found in actual observation that although this tendency did exist in earlier years, the situation has now changed, and the number of female consumers who love Mandheling is increasing year by year.

Mandheling belongs to the Arabica species and originally came from the Mandailing region near the Bukit Barisan mountains in North Sumatra. This coffee has outstanding body, low acidity, and a faint herbal note. In Front Street's database, you can find a variety of Mandheling products, such as Front Street Lintong Mandheling, Front Street Golden Mandheling, Front Street Tiger Mandheling, and Front Street Aged Mandheling. Among them, Golden Mandheling is cleaner and fuller-bodied than ordinary Mandheling, with an even better mouthfeel. For this reason, Front Street regards Mandheling as the representative of Indonesian coffee and a choice for beginners, while friends who know coffee better often prefer the specialty single-origin Golden Mandheling.

Indonesian Sumatra Coffee Producing Regions

Mandheling coffee is produced on the island of Sumatra in Indonesia in Asia, so it is also called "Sumatra coffee." The main growing regions include Java, Sulawesi, and Sumatra, of which about 90% is Robusta. The "Mandheling" produced on Sumatra is the most famous. Among the refined traditional Arabica coffees produced in northern Sumatra, the best quality ones are sold under the names Lintong and Mandheling. Strictly speaking, Lintong refers to coffee grown in a small area southwest of Lake Toba in the Lintong administrative region. These coffee-growing areas are scattered across high-altitude, undulating, fern-covered clay plateaus. Lintong coffee is not shade-grown, uses no chemicals, and is almost entirely operated by smallholders. Mandheling is a broader term that covers Lintong coffee as well as coffees from Diari (capital Sidikalang) and the northern growing areas of Lake Toba with similar conditions.

At present, the best-quality coffee beans in the Sumatra region come from the GAYO highlands, mostly grown from old tree varieties. Front Street Coffee's new-season Golden Mandheling comes from GAYO Mountain in Aceh, North Sumatra. The Gayo Mountains are located in the Aceh producing region of North Sumatra Province, at an altitude of between 1,500 and 2,500 meters, and the coffee farmers are mostly local indigenous people—the Gayo people. This region has ideal conditions for coffee growth: high altitude, fertile soil, abundant rainfall, and Lake Tawar provides a rich water source. Local organic farming is widely adopted, with no chemical fertilizers used, and it is regarded as a green coffee production area in the world. Therefore Gayo coffee is also often called green coffee or Gayo organic coffee.

A Detailed Guide to Indonesian Mandheling Coffee Bean Varieties and Processing Methods: From Lintong to Golden Mandheling

Front Street's Golden Mandheling comes from PWN. It should be noted that Golden Mandheling is not a grade name, but a trademark registered by the Indonesian company N.V. Pawani Medan (PWN for short). The company was founded in 1957 and deals in the export of Indonesian products such as coffee, rubber, cinnamon, cloves, and patchouli oil. It was the first Indonesian company to export coffee from North Sumatra and the first company to make "Mandheling coffee" known in Japan. Since 1977, the company has focused on exporting high-quality coffee beans, including Sumatra Arabica coffee Mandheling Grade 1 and Robusta coffee AP-I Grade 2, mainly to Japan, Taiwan, China, and the United States, with exports to Japan and Taiwan, China accounting for more than 95%. In Japan and Taiwan, China, "PWN" has become synonymous with quality assurance.

Golden Mandheling has stricter quality requirements: first, the coffee beans must reach screen size 19, be plump and uniform, and belong to the highest grade G1. PWN's beans are darker green in color and have a neat flat-bean shape. After that, they must undergo one machine sorting and three manual hand-sortings to ensure fewer than 3 defective green beans (based on a 300g green bean sample).

But Front Street needs to remind everyone: as Golden Mandheling's reputation continues to grow, many beans not produced by PWN have appeared on the market under the name Golden Mandheling. These can actually only be called specialty Mandheling. The Front Street PWN Golden Mandheling sold by Front Street Coffee is Golden Mandheling coffee beans certified by a certificate issued by PWN. The certification certificate issued by PWN and the jute sacks of Golden Mandheling green coffee beans bearing the PWN logo can both be seen at Front Street Coffee stores.

Indonesian Coffee Bean Grading Methods

Indonesian coffee is mainly processed by the semi-washed method and is graded according to the proportion of defective beans and the number of manual hand-sortings of defective beans, with five levels from G1 to G5, and G1 being the highest grade. Under this grading system, Sumatra is also divided into four different systems: Mandheling, Golden Mandheling, Lake Tawar coffee, and Aged Mandheling. At present, Front Street has Lintong Mandheling coffee and Golden Mandheling coffee.

Golden Mandheling Coffee Varieties

Sumatra is a producing region for Arabica coffee beans in Indonesia. As early as 1658, the Dutch transplanted descendants of the "European Typica mother plant" to Sri Lanka, but the planting failed. In 1699, the Dutch transplanted coffee trees from Malabar in eastern India to Java. This trial planting succeeded, and Typica multiplied stably in Java. In 1718, the Dutch further transplanted the successfully trial-grown Typica from Java to Sumatra and Sulawesi. After more than a century of propagation, just when Indonesian Typica was flourishing, a leaf rust disease swept through most of Indonesia's Typica at the end of the 19th century, after which the more disease-resistant Robusta variety had to be introduced.

Mandheling coffee does not specifically refer to one coffee variety. Generally speaking, the main varieties of Mandheling coffee are Ateng and TimTim. In fact, TimTim is Timor, an Arabica variety with Robusta ancestry; Ateng is Catimor, a hybrid of Caturra and Catimor. Because these varieties all carry Robusta coffee bean genes, and because the growing altitude is not high, they cannot form a strong temperature difference between day and night to allow the coffee beans to develop more refined flavors. Therefore, whether TimTim or Ateng, they all naturally carry unique herbal, woody agarwood, and spice flavors.

A Detailed Guide to Indonesian Mandheling Coffee Bean Varieties and Processing Methods: From Lintong to Golden Mandheling

Introduction to Golden Mandheling Coffee Processing Methods

The processing method of each coffee bean depends on the local climate and environment, and also better reflects the local coffee flavor. Sumatra is the largest island in Indonesia, located on the equator, with a tropical rainforest climate, high temperature and humidity, and abundant rainfall. Small coffee farmers usually grow coffee in wild原始 mountains and forests. Sumatra is rich in water resources and warm all year round, but local weather is mostly rainy, with continuous typhoons, which cannot meet the good weather needed for natural sun-drying; in addition, local economic conditions are limited, so the washed method, which is more costly, cannot be adopted. Thus the highly local wet-hulling method emerged. It is precisely this seemingly accidental processing method that created Mandheling's one-of-a-kind flavor.

The characteristic of the wet-hulling method is that after the coffee cherries are picked, the skin and pulp are first removed with a wooden pulper, then fermented for 3 hours and dried, reducing the moisture content to a semi-dry, semi-wet 30% to 50%. Next, the mucilage and parchment layer are removed, and drying continues in the later stage. The drying process takes 2 to 4 days, and the moisture content finally drops to 12% to 13%.

Front Street believes that although the wet-hulling method greatly speeds up the entire processing flow, because the parchment layer must be removed in a semi-dry state, greater friction is required, and the green beans are easily crushed and damaged, especially at both ends where small gaps easily form. Therefore, Indonesian coffee beans processed by wet-hulling generally have a relatively high defect rate, and green bean traders arrange manual hand-sorting before export sales to remove incomplete defective beans.

A Detailed Guide to Indonesian Mandheling Coffee Bean Varieties and Processing Methods: From Lintong to Golden Mandheling

Front Street Coffee Brewing Suggestions

Regarding coffee brewing, Front Street suggests using freshly roasted coffee beans, as this allows you to experience the coffee's rich flavors to the greatest extent. The coffee beans shipped by Front Street Coffee are all within 5 days of the roast date, because Front Street deeply understands that freshness has a great impact on flavor. Front Street's roasting principle is "freshly roasted good coffee," so that every customer who places an order receives the freshest possible coffee. The resting period for coffee is about 4 to 7 days, so when customers receive it, it is exactly at its best flavor.

Of course, some customers need Front Street to help grind the coffee, and that is no problem either, but Front Street must remind you: once coffee beans are ground into powder in advance, they no longer need to rest, because during transportation the pressure from carbon dioxide inside the package can also make the coffee flavor rounder, so once you receive the coffee powder you can immediately brew a cup and taste it. However, the coffee powder needs to be brewed as soon as possible, because after contact with air it oxidizes quickly and its flavor dissipates quickly, and the quality will be compromised. Therefore Front Street recommends buying whole beans and grinding fresh for each brew, so you can better taste the coffee's flavor.

Front Street's parameters for brewing Mandheling coffee:

In order to better highlight Mandheling coffee's full-bodied mouthfeel, Front Street chooses the Kono dripper. The Kono dripper has few ribs and they are located at the lower end. The filter paper fits tightly against the dripper, which can restrict airflow and lengthen the contact time between water and coffee grounds, allowing the coffee grounds to be fully extracted and enhancing the full-bodied mouthfeel.

Water temperature: 88°C, coffee dose: 15 grams, coffee-to-water ratio: 1:15, grind size: medium-fine grind (75% passing a No. 20 sieve).

Use staged extraction. First, bloom with water equal to 2 times the coffee dose, that is, 30 grams of water for a 30-second bloom. The purpose of the bloom is to let the coffee grounds release internal carbon dioxide, thereby making the later-stage extraction more stable. Pour in a slow circular stream until 125 grams, then pause, continue pouring until 225 grams and stop. After the water in the dripper has dripped through, remove the dripper. Start timing from the beginning of pouring; the extraction time is 2 minutes 00 seconds. Next, swirl the entire cup of coffee to mix it evenly, then pour it into a cup and taste.

A Detailed Guide to Indonesian Mandheling Coffee Bean Varieties and Processing Methods: From Lintong to Golden Mandheling

[Front Street PWN Golden Mandheling Coffee Flavor]: The coffee as a whole has multiple layers, is full-bodied and clean, with rich nut and caramel aromas, a chocolate note, a lasting finish, and high balance.

[Lintong Mandheling Coffee Flavor]: The entry has a rich herbal aroma, dark chocolate, caramel, and a sweet aftertaste.

As an everyday coffee bean, Mandheling coffee can serve as an introductory bean for beginners to understand Indonesian coffee; while Golden Mandheling coffee may be the higher specialty coffee pursued by friends who know coffee. Of course, if you do not like this coffee flavor, you can also choose other flavors, such as: Ethiopia's floral and fruity acidity; Colombia's nutty dark chocolate and soft fruity acidity; and Costa Rica's special processing methods with raisin, osmanthus, and rose floral notes, and so on. If possible, Front Street suggests trying coffees from different producing regions to experience different coffee terroirs and cultures.

The above content is compiled by CoffeeHunters, a coffee news website.

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