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Coffee Quality in the Red Cherry Project Yirgacheffe Natural

June 8, 2016
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How Does the Red Cherry Project Raise Coffee Quality?

Red Cherry Project coffee contains no added cherries. The name comes from ripe coffee fruit, which turns dark red and resembles a cherry. Dutch merchant Trabocca started Operation Cherry Red to lift the coffee quality of smallholder farms in Ethiopia by buying only 100 percent fully ripe fruit, picked by women, in lots of roughly 1,500 to 3,000 kilograms.

The focus on fully ripe selection is what separates these lots from ordinary natural-process coffee. Yirgacheffe Natural Red Cherry is tied to specific terroir, processing and roasting curves, and the resulting aroma chemicals produce the floral and berry notes drinkers often describe. Extraction parameters matter too, since the same bean reads differently depending on grind and brew ratio.

The "Red Cherry Project" that frequently appears on café menus is often mistaken to mean that cherries have been added to the coffee, and some even claim to taste cherry notes in it. In reality, the name comes from the dark red appearance of ripe coffee cherries, which resemble cherries. Operation Cherry Red was initiated by the Dutch coffee merchant Trabocca, aiming to improve the coffee quality of smallholder farms in Ethiopia through strict selection of fully ripe fruit. This article will provide a complete analysis of the origins, operating methods, and regional distribution of the Red Cherry Project, with a focus on the Yirgacheffe Natural Red Cherry produced by Front Street Coffee, breaking down this bean's flavor performance and extraction logic one by one—from terroir and processing methods to roasting curves and brewing parameters—to help coffee enthusiasts truly understand the value of Red Cherry coffee.

What Exactly Is the Red Cherry Project? The Flavor Code of Yirgacheffe Natural Beans and Key Brewing Tips

Recently, terms like "xx Red Cherry Project," "xx Red Cherry Natural," and "xx Red Cherry Washed" have been appearing on many café menus. Customers often come to Front Street and ask: Is Red Cherry coffee made with cherries added? Some even swear that the cup of Red Cherry coffee they drank really did have a cherry flavor (one can only say their perception is truly astonishing). Of course, some also ask: Since it doesn't taste like cherries, why is it called Red Cherry rather than Red Apple or Red Strawberry? The reason is actually very straightforward—when coffee fruit is fully ripe, its appearance is dark red, and both its color and shape closely resemble cherries, so it is called Red Cherry. The Yirgacheffe Red Cherry Project, also known as Operation Cherry Red, was originally initiated by the Dutch.

Next, Front Street will walk everyone through the details, but after reading this, don't go around telling people that Red Cherry Project beans taste like cherries.

Operation Cherrie Red (ORC) is a project aimed at improving the coffee quality of small-scale farms, with the core goal of encouraging coffee farmers while also surprising roasters. Trabocca, the largest coffee bean merchant in the Netherlands, invites Ethiopian farms before the harvest season to produce small batches of about 1,500 to 3,000 kilograms (25 to 50 bags) of coffee beans for them. Only women are allowed to do the picking, and they must select 100% fully ripe red fruit, which has an enormous impact on the final flavor in the cup. Therefore, Ethiopian women—with good eyesight, careful attention, and a willingness to endure hardship—are the key force that keeps the Red Cherry Project running.

Operation Cherry Red is also a strengthening measure that pushes farms to invest more effort in sorting and selecting beans, and the prices of these coffees are naturally relatively higher. Operation Cherry Red covers multiple processing methods including washed, natural, semi-washed, semi-natural, and experimental coffees. The main production areas include Yirgacheffe, Sidamo, Bonga Forest, Lekempti, Kembata, Illubabor, Harar, and Limu. In 2011, the Golocha production area (near Harar) was also added. These production areas each have their own flavor characteristics and can fully demonstrate the diversity of Ethiopian coffee beans. After Trabocca receives the coffee, it further screens it. Through cupping quality tests conducted by offices in both Ethiopia and the Netherlands, farms that meet the standard receive substantial bonuses. Only coffees scoring above 88 points in cupping can become high-quality coffee recognized by the Red Cherry Project.

Trabocca, the promoter of the Red Cherry Project, has invested all the profits earned in recent years into the development of partner farms. Trabocca emphasizes that this is a non-profit project. The company has only four people carrying out work related to the Red Cherry Project, including the boss and a secretary, while the remaining administrative affairs are supported by the parent company to keep administrative costs down, with all profits returned to partner farms.

Observant readers may have already noticed that the words Red Cherry also appear on Front Street's bean list. That's right—Front Street has always offered Yirgacheffe Natural Red Cherry.

What Exactly Is the Red Cherry Project? The Flavor Code of Yirgacheffe Natural Beans and Key Brewing Tips

Specialty Coffee Yirgacheffe Recommendation — Front Street Natural Red Cherry Coffee Beans

Region: Yirgacheffe, Ethiopia

Estate: Aletaland Estate

Altitude: 1,700 meters — 2,200 meters

Variety: Local heirloom varieties

Processing Method: Washed Process

When Front Street Coffee originally selected this Natural Yirgacheffe coffee bean, it found that its mouthfeel was clean and refreshing, with the white floral aroma and citric acidity that are hallmarks of Yirgacheffe coffee. In addition, it had a honey-like sweetness in the aftertaste and a hint of fermentation.

The Yirgacheffe production area is located in southern Ethiopia and is famous for producing coffee. With high altitude, dense vegetation, and fertile soil, coffee plants are able to grow in a natural environment. Ethiopia has a warm tropical climate with a clear distinction between dry and rainy seasons. Because the climate and growing conditions are ideal, Yirgacheffe coffee trees do not require the application of pesticides or other chemicals during cultivation.

Yirgacheffe was once part of the Sidamo production area. Because Yirgacheffe coffee beans have flavor characteristics such as white floral notes and citric acidity, along with a clean and refreshing mouthfeel, they have left many coffee lovers enamored and lingering over them. This also led many coffee farmers outside Ethiopia's Yirgacheffe region to label their own coffee beans as "Yirgacheffe" for sale, disrupting market order. Later, the Yirgacheffe production area had to be separated from the Sidamo production area and become an independent production area.

The coffee beans currently on Front Street's bean list from the Yirgacheffe Red Cherry Project use the oldest and most primitive natural processing method. After ripe red cherries are picked and rigorously selected, the red coffee fruit is spread on African raised beds for sun drying. This drying method can give the coffee a rich fruity flavor. During drying, workers turn the fruit from time to time so that the coffee dries evenly and avoids undesirable fermented sourness caused by improper drying. In addition, placing the coffee fruit on African raised beds keeps it away from the ground and prevents it from picking up earthy flavors.

In order to highlight berry notes, citric acidity, delicate white floral aromas, and honey sweetness, Front Street Natural Red Cherry ultimately uses a medium-light roast. It is suitable for single-origin pour-over, French press, and immersion brewing with a Clever Cup, and it also performs well in a siphon and as cold brew. In addition, considering that many people like espresso, Front Street Red Cherry SOE is presented with a medium-dark roast. Using an espresso machine or a moka pot can extract moderate crema and berry aromas, with a sweet-and-sour, refreshing taste that is low in bitterness and bright.

What Exactly Is the Red Cherry Project? The Flavor Code of Yirgacheffe Natural Beans and Key Brewing Tips

Front Street baristas take into account that lightly roasted coffee dissolves more slowly during brewing, so they use a finer grind and a higher water temperature for brewing. To avoid over-extraction caused by high temperature, Front Street recommends using a faster-flowing dripper for brewing, such as the Hario V60 dripper.

Dripper: Hario V60

Water temperature: 93°C

Coffee dose: 15 grams

Coffee-to-water ratio: 1:15

Grind size: 80% passing through a No. 20 sieve

Readers who frequently read FrontStreet Coffee articles know that Front Street most often uses a three-pour method when brewing coffee. First, pour 30 grams of water to completely wet the coffee grounds and let it bloom for 30 seconds; then, using a slow, small stream, pour the second pour in a circular motion until the total reaches 125 grams; when the water level in the dripper drops to the point where the coffee bed is about to be exposed, continue pouring the third pour until the total reaches 225 grams and then stop immediately; after the water in the dripper has completely dripped into the server below, remove the dripper. The total extraction time is about 2 minutes.

Because of the three-pour method, the final cup has a richer sense of layering. Front Street Natural Red Cherry has an obvious sweet-and-sour sensation on entry, with lemon, berry, and fermented wine aromas, and the citric acidity in the finish is long-lasting with a clear sweetness in the aftertaste.

The above content is compiled by CoffeeHunters, a coffee news website.

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