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Peruvian Coffee and the Coffee Grading System: Washed Geisha from Cajamarca

July 17, 2020
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Why Is Peruvian Coffee Overlooked in the Coffee Grading System?

Peru is often skipped over when South American coffee comes up, yet it produces rich, layered and mild, balanced cups, and its very high cleanliness has pushed it quickly into the international specialty market. A washed Geisha from the northern Cajamarca region shows this clearly, cupping with white floral, prune, citrus and black tea notes woven together.

The country's varied landforms, plateaus, mountains, deserts and coastline give it a wide range of growing conditions. Its coffee development history, grading system and processing methods explain how this quality is achieved, and they give buyers a framework for judging Peruvian lots rather than dismissing them as a niche origin. Richer flavor layers and balance set them apart from other South American coffees.

When South American coffee is mentioned, most people first think of Colombia or Brazil, while Peru is often overlooked. In fact, Peruvian coffee is known for its rich flavor layers and mild, balanced taste, and with its outstanding cleanliness in recent years, it is quickly emerging in the international specialty market. This article will start with Peru's geographical conditions, coffee development history, grading system, and processing methods to introduce you to this "rising star." At the same time, Front Street Coffee has also acquired a washed Geisha from the northern Cajamarca region, experiencing the captivating flavors of white floral, prune, citrus, and black tea interwoven through actual cupping and brewing. If you want to know whether Peruvian coffee is actually good, why not start with this article.

Why Is Peruvian Coffee Underrated? Exploring the Floral and Fruity Sweetness of Washed Geisha from the Cajamarca Region

For more specialty coffee knowledge, please follow: Front Street Coffee (Frontsteet Coffee)

When it comes to Peruvian coffee, quite a few friends may find it somewhat unfamiliar. It does not carry the high name recognition of those mainstream producing regions and is relatively niche in the public eye. But this does not mean Peruvian coffee is poor in quality; it has simply always kept a "low profile."

Rich flavor layers and a mild, balanced taste are the two major characteristics that distinguish Peruvian coffee from other South American coffees, but its strengths do not stop there. Especially in recent years, Peruvian coffee has won over a large following with its extremely high cleanliness, allowing it to quickly gain a firm foothold in the international market and become a rising star in the coffee world that cannot be ignored. Today, what Front Street wants to talk about is exactly this rising star—Peruvian coffee.

Peru Country Overview

In the ancient Indian language, Peru means "land of abundance, granary of grains," because local agriculture has always flourished. Peru is located on the western edge of South America and borders five countries: Brazil to the east, Chile to the south, Colombia and Ecuador to the north, Bolivia to the southeast, and the Pacific Ocean to the west, with a coastline of about 2,414 kilometers.

Peru's land area is not especially vast, yet it simultaneously possesses plateaus, mountains, deserts, and coastlines and other diverse landforms. Complex and rich natural resources, combined with a varied climate, make Peru, like Colombia, an ideal place for growing coffee. Peru's coffee cultivation is mainly concentrated in the high-altitude areas of the Andes Mountains. The Andes run through Peru from north to south, and the average altitude of coffee-growing areas is 1,200–2,000 meters. Abundant rainfall, pronounced day-night temperature differences, and fertile volcanic soil provide a solid foundation for the growth of high-quality coffee.

Looking at the map, Peru's main coffee-growing areas can be divided into three parts: the northern producing region, the central producing region, and the southern producing region.

The northern region accounts for 43% of Peru's national coffee-growing area, with an average altitude of 1,250–1,950 m; the central region accounts for 34% of national production, with an average altitude of 1,200–2,000 m; the southern region accounts for 23% of national production, with an average altitude of 900–2,050 m.

History of Peruvian Coffee Development

Coffee is Peru's second-largest agricultural export product (the first is asparagus), holding an important position in the national economy and rural society. According to data from the Peruvian Coffee Chamber (Junta Nacional del Café), Peru's coffee exports reached 220,000 tons in 2024, with total production ranking ninth in the world, while organic coffee production ranks first globally, with an output value of about 1.103 billion USD. Reports show that Peruvian coffee is mainly sold to the United States, Germany, and other Nordic countries.

However, Peru's coffee industry did not rise overnight. Its development history is closely related to colonial legacies, land reform, international market fluctuations, and ecological conservation movements. Next, Front Street will briefly outline the history of Peru's coffee development.

At the end of the 18th century, coffee was brought to Peru by Spanish colonists, initially planted only in courtyards for ornamental purposes. After Peru gained independence in 1821, the government began encouraging the cultivation of cash crops to replace the gradually declining silver mining industry. By 1850, influenced by Brazil's coffee boom and the spread of leaf rust across overseas producing regions, European immigrants began opening coffee plantations in central and northern Peru, in Cajamarca. These immigrants brought advanced cultivation techniques, while labor mainly relied on indigenous people and contracted Chinese workers. From that time on, the gears of Peruvian coffee's fate began to turn.

Why Is Peruvian Coffee Underrated? Exploring the Floral and Fruity Sweetness of Washed Geisha from the Cajamarca Region

By the end of the 19th century, Peru's coffee production model was dominated by large estates (those unfamiliar with this can look back at Front Street's previous articles). Historical research found that in 1890, nearly 80% of Peru's coffee output came from large estates. This structure had an obvious drawback: Peru's coffee economy became highly dependent on the international market. So when the Great Depression broke out in 1929, coffee prices plummeted by 60%, which in turn triggered severe social unrest.

It was not until 1968, after the military government of Juan Velasco came to power and implemented land reform (Ley de Reforma Agraria), that the structure of Peru's coffee industry was completely changed. The government distributed millions of hectares of land to individual farmers, large estates fell apart, and Peru's coffee production entities gradually shifted from estates to smallholder farmers.

Similar to most farmers in Africa, Peru's small coffee farmers cultivate an average area of about 2 hectares. Although this transformation improved social fairness, it made the spread of technology more difficult. The number of farmers is large and scattered, making centralized training very difficult, and production efficiency therefore declined.

It was not until 1980, with the support of the German church organization (MISEREOR) and fair trade institutions, that coffee cooperatives appeared in northern Peru, breaking the deadlock of a stagnant coffee industry. Cooperatives can help farmers reduce production costs by means such as centralized purchasing of agricultural inputs and sharing processing equipment. This model was strengthened after the signing of the North American Free Trade Agreement in 1994, and Peruvian coffee began entering high-end markets with labels such as "organic cultivation" and "Rainforest Alliance Certified."

(Front Street will briefly mention here: organic cultivation emphasizes growing crops without using chemical fertilizers and pesticides; the Rainforest Alliance is an international non-profit organization working at the intersection of agriculture, forestry, and business, and only farms that meet organic cultivation standards can obtain its most authoritative third-party certification. The "frog beans" that Front Street often mentions refer to coffee beans that have obtained Rainforest Alliance certification. For details, please refer to this article → "Portal")

By 2003, as Front Street mentioned earlier, Peru had become the world's number one organic coffee producer, because Peru's organically certified area reached as much as 110,000 hectares. This achievement cannot be separated from the unique geographical conditions of the Andean region (high altitude, fewer pests) and the technical support of non-governmental organizations. At this point, Peru's coffee industry finally cleared away the clouds and was seen by more coffee lovers in the specialty market.

Peruvian Coffee

Like most South American countries, Peru's main coffee variety is Arabica. But unlike most South American countries, Peru's coffee grading system is mainly based on the altitude/hardness grading method, supplemented by other grading methods.

The so-called altitude grading method is to grade according to the altitude at which the coffee beans are grown. The higher the altitude at which coffee beans are grown, the higher the hardness of the beans. This is because a high-altitude environment slows down the growth of coffee beans, giving them more time to accumulate nutrients. The mild balance Front Street mentioned at the beginning is precisely the characteristic of high-altitude Peruvian coffee beans. The richer the substances inside the coffee beans, the better the performance of the mouthfeel and flavor.

Why Is Peruvian Coffee Underrated? Exploring the Floral and Fruity Sweetness of Washed Geisha from the Cajamarca Region

Because local water resources are very abundant, Peru's coffee processing method is mainly washed. Traditional washed processing first involves pouring the harvested coffee cherries into water for flotation, picking out the defective cherries floating on the surface, and then using a depulper to remove the skin and pulp; afterward, the parchment beans with mucilage are poured into a tank to ferment in order to remove the mucilage; then the processed parchment beans are moved to a drying yard to dry; finally, the dried parchment beans are sent into a huller to remove the parchment, and the processing is complete.

Washed processing can effectively screen out defects and defective cherries, and the degree of fermentation is shallower and easier to control, so washed coffee has extremely high cleanliness. Peruvian washed coffee is not only that; in addition to high cleanliness, it also has soft and delicate fruit acidity and a rich, silky mouthfeel, which is also why it has gained a large following in recent years.

As Front Street talked about it, it could not help but salivate. In order to taste the deliciousness of Peruvian coffee, Front Street specially acquired a washed Geisha. This bean comes from Peru's most important northern specialty coffee producing region—Cajamarca.

The Cajamarca producing region is close to the Ecuadorian border and is located in the high-altitude area of the Andes Mountains. This producing region not only has fertile volcanic soil and rich, diverse microclimates, but also towering altitudes that widen the day-night temperature difference, making it a very ideal coffee-growing region. So it is not hard to understand why early European immigrants chose this place as their main cultivation base when opening plantations in Peru.

After a long period of development, coffee gradually became an important part of Cajamarca's local economy and culture. Because local smallholders possess experience and technology ahead of other producing regions, the coffee quality in this region is even more outstanding, making it the current "hot favorite" in the specialty coffee circle.

In addition to old varieties such as Typica, Cajamarca also grows popular varieties such as Geisha. Therefore, the Peruvian coffee Front Street acquired this time was a washed Geisha from the Cajamarca producing region. In order to highlight this Geisha's floral aroma and regional flavor, Front Street chose a medium-light roasting profile to "prepare" it.

Front Street Coffee (FrontStreet Coffee): Peru · Cajamarca Geisha

Country: Peru

Producing Region: Cajamarca

Altitude: 1,800–1,950 meters

Variety: Geisha

Processing Method: Washed

Grade: SHB

Flavor: White floral, prune, citrus, juicy, black tea

During cupping, Front Street perceived that the dry aroma of this Peruvian Geisha was very intense, with clearly noticeable aromas of white floral, berries, preserved plum, and citrus. After pouring in hot water, sweet aromas similar to peach and caramel could also be smelled.

When the coffee entered the mouth, what Front Street first felt was an elegant white floral aroma, followed by full acidity like grapes, citrus, and prune juice. After swallowing, the mouth still retained a finish like black tea and caramel. The mouthfeel was thick yet very clean, a unique sensation like holding a preserved plum candy in the mouth. As the temperature dropped slightly, the bright acidity began to be released, the juicy sensation became more and more obvious, and the round sweetness of apricot could be tasted—very pleasant!

The above content is compiled by CoffeeHunters, a coffee news website.

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