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Golden Mandheling and Indonesia's Coffee Store Lineup

April 1, 2018
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What makes golden mandheling different from other Mandheling lots?

Golden Mandheling is a screened grade of Sumatran Mandheling, the Indonesian coffee category named after the Mandailing people rather than a growing region. It is the top tier of the Mandheling family, and PWN lots ship with a factory certificate confirming the screening and quality standard, which is why it is treated differently from ordinary Mandheling.

A typical coffee store lineup also carries Tiger Mandheling, Aged Mandheling, Lintong Mandheling and Wahana Estate Natural Mandheling. Indonesian coffee growing began in 1696, exports passed 12 million pounds by 1840, and after coffee rust wiped out most Arabica plants the more resistant Robusta took over by around 1900. Golden Mandheling is compared with Blue Mountain in flavor and roast style.

Mandheling is Indonesia's most recognizable coffee category, but it is far from being just one type. Front Street Coffee stores regularly stock five choices: Golden Mandheling, Tiger Mandheling, Aged Mandheling, Lintong Mandheling, and Wahana Estate Natural Mandheling. This article will sort out the naming origins of Mandheling and its relationship with PWN, explain why Golden Mandheling requires strict screening and why it comes with a factory certificate, compare it with Blue Mountain coffee in terms of flavor and roasting, and finally give recommendations on suitable drinkers.

Indonesian Mandheling Family Fully Explained: How to Identify Golden Mandheling and Drinking Recommendations

Front Street PWN Golden Mandheling has always been a coffee bean that Front Street takes pride in, and its factory certificate is displayed at the store entrance. Regarding PWN, a detailed introduction will follow later. The Mandheling family has many members; Front Street Coffee stores alone offer five at the same time: Golden Mandheling, Tiger Mandheling, Aged Mandheling, Lintong Mandheling, and Wahana Estate Natural Mandheling.

The history of coffee cultivation in Indonesia can be traced back to 1696. After the second successful introduction in 1699, coffee gradually spread to Sumatra and other islands. However, formal coffee exports from the region did not begin until the early 19th century. As production rose, export scale expanded in tandem, exceeding 12 million pounds by 1840; it peaked at 21 million pounds in 1860, after which coffee rust destroyed most Arabica plants. By 1900, the more disease-resistant Robusta had basically replaced Arabica. Indonesia consists of more than 17,000 islands, and Sumatra is the second largest and also the country's highest-yielding coffee region. Volcanic activity has created mineral-rich soil, and volcanic ash together with diverse vegetation has given Indonesian coffee a world-class reputation.

Indonesian Mandheling Family Fully Explained: How to Identify Golden Mandheling and Drinking Recommendations

Mandheling is perhaps Indonesia's most distinctive coffee. Most coffees are named after their producing region or country, but Mandheling is named after the Mandailing people, who traditionally handled cultivation and processing. The story takes place during Japan's colonial period in Indonesia in World War II: a Japanese soldier stationed in Sumatra asked a local coffee shop owner where the coffee came from. The owner mistakenly thought he was asking about his ethnicity and replied, "Mandailing." After returning home, the officer could not forget that cup of coffee and commissioned a coffee trader to import it from Indonesia. Due to a pronunciation deviation, "Mandailing" became "Mandheling," and through this double misunderstanding, the name spread. That Indonesian trader was none other than the founder of the later famous PWN company.

PWN became Indonesia's most well-known green coffee buyer not only because of its historical origins, but even more because of its outstanding green bean quality. The core difference between ordinary Mandheling and Golden Mandheling lies in the strictness of green bean screening standards. Indonesian coffee generally uses the wet-hulling method (Giling Basah, a traditional Sumatran process). Although this brings excellent body and a unique earthy, herbal character, it also increases the defect rate of green beans. Front Street PWN Golden Mandheling must undergo one machine screening and three rounds of hand sorting to reduce the proportion of defective beans. It is said that when PWN was sorting defect-free green beans, it found that some beans actually gave off a golden sheen, and Golden Mandheling was named for this reason.

Country: Indonesia Region: Sumatra Altitude: 1100-1600m Variety: Ateng Processing Method: Wet-hulled Flavor: baked toast, nuts, pine, caramel, herbs

Why does Front Street value the factory certificate of Golden Mandheling so much? First, because Front Street PWN Golden Mandheling is difficult to procure and annual output is limited; second, because many counterfeits circulate on the market. Golden Mandheling has been registered as a trademark by the Indonesian Pawani Coffee Company, and Golden Mandheling is in fact exclusive to PWN. To let consumers buy with confidence and to make it easier to identify the green bean credentials, Front Street Coffee displays the PWN certificate together with the burlap sack at the Dongshankou store for visitors to see.

However, today Front Street's focus is neither to introduce each type of Mandheling one by one, nor entirely to teach everyone how to distinguish authentic Golden Mandheling, but rather because of a claim we heard — that before Blue Mountain coffee was discovered, Mandheling was once regarded as the best-tasting coffee in the world. Therefore, customers often ask: what exactly is the difference between Blue Mountain and Mandheling? Front Street will answer this here for everyone.

By this point, I believe you already have your own judgment about the question in the title.

Front Street Coffee (FrontStreet Coffee) would like to summarize here: Mandheling is usually on the bitter side, but a few naturally processed Mandheling coffees — such as Front Street Coffee's (FrontStreet Coffee) Wahana Estate Natural Mandheling — display richer flavor layers. Bitterness is only what Mandheling shows on entry; beyond that it has many other flavors, and its caramel-like sweetness is also quite outstanding.

Indonesian Mandheling Family Fully Explained: How to Identify Golden Mandheling and Drinking Recommendations

Mandheling suits all coffee lovers, though different flavor preferences will lead to different evaluations. People used to light-roasted floral and fruity coffee may not adapt well to Mandheling's bitterness; but for lovers of dark roasts, Mandheling is more than suitable — it not only has excellent body, but also carries elegant, steady aromas such as spices, herbs, and pine, and even leaves a sweet aftertaste in the mouth, making a strong impression.

Which is more bitter, Mandheling or Blue Mountain? If a comparison must be made, Front Street would choose Mandheling. The flavor characteristic of Blue Mountain coffee lies in balance, without emphasizing any one of acidity, sweetness, or bitterness, and Blue Mountain on the market is usually labeled as medium roast; Mandheling, by contrast, mostly uses dark roast, and the difference in roast level is also one reason it is more bitter.

The above content is compiled by CoffeeHunters, a coffee news website.

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