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An Analysis of the Meaning of Sumatra Mandheling DP Grade and a Comprehensive Introduction to the Flavor Characteristics of Mandheling Coffee Beans

June 1, 2017
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Mandheling is one of the single-origin coffees most familiar to coffee lovers, but do you know what DP actually stands for in Sumatra Mandheling DP Grade 1? This article starts with the meaning of the DP grade and systematically covers Mandheling coffee's flavor characteristics, origin distribution, the origin of its name, processing methods, and the differences between Golden Mandheling and Aged Mandheling. Whether you are a beginner just getting to know Mandheling or a veteran who has long loved this full-bodied coffee, you will find valuable reference here. The article also retains relevant product recommendations from Front Street Coffee for easy comparison and purchase.

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What exactly DP refers to in Sumatra Mandheling DP Grade 1 has never had a definitive explanation. However, one thing is certain: among coffees produced in Indonesia, any classified as DP grade commands the highest price.

Sumatra Mandheling DP Grade 1 has a remarkably persistent finish, exuding a fresh fragrance from the mountains and wilds—the distinctive earthy scent of a primeval forest. It possesses both the signature heavy body of Indonesian coffee and a layered bitterness that turns to sweetness, with an occasional faint mustiness detectable, making it especially favored by those who prefer dark roasts and bold flavors.

The reason Aged Sumatra Mandheling is given the label "aged" is that it is stored in cellars for a full three years before export. However, aged coffee is by no means expired or spoiled old beans; rather, it is a type of coffee that has undergone special processing and takes on a slightly whitish appearance. Its flavor is more intense, its acidity somewhat reduced, while its body is enhanced, its aftertaste drawn out longer, accompanied by distinct spicy notes—sometimes presenting a tartness, sometimes a walnut taste, and sometimes chocolate.

What are the characteristics of Mandheling coffee?

Mandheling coffee is produced in Sumatra, Indonesia, in Asia, and is therefore also called "Sumatra coffee." Its flavor is extremely intense, with pronounced aroma, bitterness, and body, along with a touch of sweetness. Most coffee enthusiasts drink it as a single origin, and it is also an indispensable bean in coffee blends.

In the era before Blue Mountain coffee became widely known, Mandheling was recognized as one of the world's top-quality coffees. After roasting, the beans are large, and the green beans appear brown or dark green with a distinctive caramel-like aroma. The taste is rich and full-bodied, tending toward bittersweet, without soft acidity but with very pronounced bitterness. Due to limited production, its price is usually higher than ordinary coffee beans.

Mandheling Coffee Origin

Mandheling coffee is produced in Sumatra, Indonesia, in Asia, and is also called "Sumatra coffee." The main producing regions include Java, Sulawesi, and Sumatra, of which about ninety percent is Robusta. The "Mandheling" produced on Sumatra is the most famous. Among the fine traditional Arabica coffees produced in northern Sumatra, the best quality ones enter the market under the two names Lintong and Mandheling. Strictly speaking, Lintong refers to coffee grown in a small area southwest of Lake Toba in the Lintong administrative region. These small growing areas are scattered across high-altitude, undulating clay plateaus covered with fern vegetation. Lintong coffee is not shade-grown and does not use chemicals, and is almost entirely owned by small private holders. Mandheling, on the other hand, is a broader designation that encompasses Lintong coffee as well as coffee from Diari (capital Sidikalang) and the northern Lake Toba growing areas with similar conditions.

Origin of the Mandheling Coffee Name

Mandheling is neither a producing region name, a place name, nor a port name or coffee variety name—so how did its name come about?

In fact, it is the result of the mispronunciation of the Indonesian Mandailing people's name.

During World War II, when Japan occupied Indonesia, a Japanese soldier drank an exceptionally aromatic cup of coffee in a café and asked the owner for the name of the coffee. The owner mistakenly thought he was asking "Where are you from?" and answered: Mandailing. After the war, the soldier recalled the "Mandheling" he had drunk in Indonesia and commissioned an Indonesian coffee merchant to ship 15 tons of coffee to Japan, where it became hugely popular. The name Mandheling spread in this way, and that coffee merchant was none other than the now-famous PWN Coffee Company (PWN).

As is well known, Mandheling is produced around Lake Toba in northern Sumatra, and the finished product carries a distinctive herbal and woody fragrance.

Golden Mandheling: More than a decade ago, the Japanese adopted stricter quality control standards. After four rounds of hand-sorting to remove defective beans, they produced Golden Mandheling with a dark green color and uniform bean appearance, thereby opening up new market demand—even the European and American markets went crazy for it.

Aged Mandheling: Characterized by sweetness like honey. A successful aged bean can smooth away Mandheling's less elegant acidity; the tart and astringent components are converted into sugars through aging, making the coffee rounder and sweeter on the palate. A failed aged Mandheling is like a coffee zombie—undrinkable in taste.

Mandheling Coffee Color

Its flavor is very intense, combining aroma, bitterness, and body with a slight sweetness. Most coffee enthusiasts choose to drink it as a single origin, but it is equally an indispensable variety in coffee blends.

Mandheling has a heavy taste, a rich body, and a rich, lively vibrancy, without astringency or acidity, fully displaying both body and bitterness. Mandheling coffee beans can be described as rather ugly in appearance, but coffee fans often say that the uglier the Sumatra beans, the better, richer, and smoother the taste. Mandheling is considered the fullest-bodied coffee in the world; on tasting, the tip of the tongue can feel a distinct smoothness, while acidity is low—yet this acidity can still be clearly detected. The dancing subtle acidity mixed with the richest aroma lets one easily perceive the lively element within the gentle richness. In addition, this coffee also carries a faint earthy fragrance, which some describe as an herbal plant scent.

Since Mandheling coffee beans themselves do not possess acidic characteristics, they are often used as the base in special brewing methods. When kept warm for extended periods or used to make iced coffee, no unpleasant tart or astringent taste emerges.

After roasting, the beans are large; the green beans are brown or dark green with a distinctive caramel-like aroma, and the taste is rich and full-bodied.

Mandheling Coffee Processing

Sellers often label Lintong and Mandheling coffee as dry-processed. In reality, however, various hybrid methods are often used locally to separate the fruit pulp from the coffee seeds, with the more common being backyard-style wet processing. Clever farmers put freshly picked coffee cherries into crude pulping machines assembled from scrap metal, wood, and bicycle parts, then pack the wet, sticky pulped beans into plastic woven bags to ferment overnight. The next morning, the softened fermented pulp and mucilage are washed off by hand. The coffee, still wrapped in silver skin, is spread on thin boards in the front yard for pre-drying, then sent to middlemen's warehouses to remove the silver skin and dry further. Finally, the coffee is transported by truck to the port of Medan (the provincial capital of Sumatra), completing a third and final drying.

Other reports state that in other Mandheling producing areas, after the fruit skin is removed, the mucilage is allowed to dry and remain attached to the beans, similar to Brazil's semi-washed process. The dried mucilage and silver skin are then removed by machine, and finally the coffee also undergoes two-stage drying: first at the middleman's warehouse, then at the exporter's warehouse in the port of Medan.

The reason for describing the processing and Sumatra's characteristics in such detail is that it is still unclear to what extent the soil, atmosphere, unusual processing techniques, and three-stage drying each influence the formation of the characteristics of Lintong and Mandheling coffees. The only certainty is that these processes occasionally produce exceptionally good coffee, while also being extremely inconsistent. Only the ruthless sorting at the Medan port exporters' warehouses can ensure that the depth of texture and the unique, understated richness of Lintong and Mandheling emerge from other distracting flavors.

The gentleman among coffees—Sumatra Mandheling. Mandheling is a premium coffee bean grown on highland mountain slopes at altitudes of 750 to 1,500 meters.

In the 17th century, the Dutch first introduced Arabica seedlings to Ceylon (now Sri Lanka) and Indonesia. In 1877, a large-scale disaster struck the Indonesian islands; coffee rust nearly destroyed all the coffee trees, forcing people to abandon the Arabica they had cultivated for years and instead introduce the more disease-resistant Robusta coffee tree from Africa. Today, Indonesia is a major coffee-producing country, with production mainly in Java, Sumatra, and Sulawesi, where Robusta accounts for 90% of total output. Sumatra Mandheling, however, belongs to the scarce Arabica category, with these trees planted on mountain slopes between 750 and 1,500 meters in altitude. The mysterious and unique Sumatra variety gives Mandheling coffee its characteristics of intense aroma, rich body, strong flavor, and slight chocolate and syrupy notes. Mandheling coffee beans are relatively large and hard in texture, prone to defects during cultivation, and usually require strict hand-sorting after harvest. If control is not strict enough, quality can easily vary widely, and different roast levels also directly affect the taste, making it a single origin with considerable controversy.

The most famous coffee-producing areas in Asia are the various islands of the Malay Archipelago: Sumatra, Java, and Kalimantan.

Among them, Sumatra Mandheling coffee from Sumatra, Indonesia, is the most renowned, with two famous product names: Sumatra Mandheling DP Grade 1 and Aged Sumatra Mandheling. Sumatra Mandheling DP Grade 1 has a long aftertaste with a mountain-wild fragrance—the distinctive earthy taste of a primeval forest. Beyond the rich flavor characteristic of Indonesian coffee, it also has a bittersweet taste, sometimes mixed with a faint mustiness, and is deeply loved by those who enjoy heavily roasted coffee. Aged Sumatra Mandheling coffee is called "aged" because it is stored in cellars for three years before export. But aged coffee is by no means stale coffee; rather, it is a slightly pale coffee that has undergone special processing. This coffee is more intense, its acidity lower, but its body higher, its aftertaste longer, and it takes on a rich spicy flavor—sometimes tart, sometimes walnut, sometimes chocolate. Before Blue Mountain coffee was discovered, Mandheling was once regarded as the finest of coffees.

Among them, Sumatra Mandheling coffee from Sumatra, Indonesia, is the most renowned, with two famous product names: Sumatra Mandheling DP Grade 1 and Aged Sumatra Mandheling.

As a brand that has深耕精品咖啡 for many years in China, Front Street Coffee has long supplied Sumatra Mandheling series beans, including Classic Mandheling, Golden Mandheling, and Aged Mandheling, for coffee lovers to compare and taste.

The above content is compiled by CoffeeHunters, a coffee news website.

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