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Sourcing the Brazilian Yellow Bourbon Coffee Variety: Fruit Color Genetics, Flavor Profile, and an Analysis of Queen's Estate Front Street Roasting

February 22, 2017
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Yellow Bourbon is a rather legendary variety on Brazil's coffee map. It gets its name from the rare yellow color of its ripe fruit, and it has regained attention in the specialty coffee wave. This article provides a complete overview of Yellow Bourbon's development, from variety origin, genetic mechanisms, and agronomic characteristics to cup flavor, and introduces how Queen Farm releases its sweetness and citrus acidity through meticulous natural processing and hand-picking. Combined with Front Street Coffee's roasting practice, it also presents this bean's balanced performance in notes of nuts, peanut butter, and dark chocolate, making it suitable for readers who want to gain a deeper understanding of Brazilian specialty coffee.

巴西黄波旁咖啡品种溯源:果实颜色遗传、风味表现与皇后庄园前街烘焙解析

The fruit of most coffee varieties turns red after ripening, and Yellow Bourbon is special precisely because its ripe fruit presents a distinct yellow color. In Brazil, this variety has always been regarded as a rare and precious coffee resource.

In recent years, Yellow Bourbon has received extremely high praise among coffee buyers and roasters, partly because of its unique flavor performance and outstanding quality, and partly because of its appearance, which is completely different from common varieties. In fact, Yellow Bourbon is not a new variety. It has a fairly long cultivation history; it was simply in Brazil that it truly gained market attention and promotion.

From the perspective of variety development, Yellow Bourbon has been cultivated for about ninety years. To trace its source, one needs to go back to the history of its paternal and maternal varieties.

In the 1850s, Brazil was already the world's most important coffee-producing country. At that time, the main variety was Typica, and Typica cultivation in Brazil can be traced back to the 1720s. Because Typica had limited yield, Brazil's export capacity was constrained. At this point, a Brazilian traveled to Reunion Island in the Indian Ocean, east of Madagascar, with the goal of obtaining Red Bourbon seeds. By the 1870s, Red Bourbon had become the most common variety in many Brazilian coffeehouses.

In 1871, an unusual phenomenon appeared. In the city of Botucatu, a variant with yellow fruit was born, which had never been recorded in Brazil at that time. This yellow Typica variant was called Yello Botucatu, and its yield was not high. But many farmers began planting it out of curiosity about its fruit color. It is worth noting that some researchers believe Yellow Bourbon actually originated from a natural mutation of Red Bourbon.

The Yellow Bourbon we know today is believed to have first appeared in 1930, at a farm near Pederneiras (SP) that grew Red Bourbon. Many people believe it is the result of a natural cross between Red Bourbon and Yellow Botucatu. Apart from its yellow fruit color, this variety is very close to Red Bourbon in other respects, and it is more productive.

巴西黄波旁咖啡品种溯源:果实颜色遗传、风味表现与皇后庄园前街烘焙解析

The appearance of Yellow Bourbon attracted the attention of researchers at the Campinas Agronomic Institute (IAC), including Carlos Arnaldo Krug. In 1942, Krug conducted the first formal study of Yellow Bourbon. Over the following three years, the institute planted and observed 30 varieties. The IAC research area was located in Jaú (SP).

Entering the 1950s, the most promising Yellow Bourbon varieties for successful crossing were given the code "IAC J," and the research results were announced to farmers. In 1951, Professor Mendes at the same institute studied the yields of the varieties being grown at the time, including Typica, Yellow Botucatu, Sumatra, Red Bourbon, Yellow Bourbon, and Maragogype, among which Yellow Bourbon proved to be the most productive.

Although the research results were encouraging, Yellow Bourbon never became Brazil's mainstream dominant variety in the following decades. Although it was still commercially planted, it was not widely adopted by farmers. Because its ripe fruit presents a special yellow color, it was often still regarded as a novelty variety.

In the past, during the period when Krug, Mendes, and several professors carried out research, coffee flavor quality was not the core goal of plant research. The research focus was usually placed on productivity, plant health, and resistance to pests and diseases. Around the time Yellow Bourbon appeared in Brazil, popular varieties such as Caturra (1937), Mundo Novo (1943), and Catuai (1949) also emerged one after another.

However, driven by specialty coffee and the third wave coffee movement, Yellow Bourbon remains a variety that can bring a fresh experience.

In 1942, Professor Krug had already revealed the genetic source of this color. It is determined by a pair of genes called "Xanthocarpa," a word derived from the Greek xanthus (yellow) and carpus (fruit).

The principle is as follows: plants with a pair of dominant XcXc genes bear red fruit; plants with a pair of recessive xcxc genes bear yellow fruit; in rare cases, Xcxc plants with one dominant gene and one recessive gene bear orange fruit. In the case of yellow fruit, the substance expressed by these genes is luteolin, a flavonoid that is also found in spice plants such as Brazilian parsley and broccoli.

巴西黄波旁咖啡品种溯源:果实颜色遗传、风味表现与皇后庄园前街烘焙解析

Yellow Bourbon trees can grow to 2.8 meters high and mature relatively quickly. Among the 30 Yellow Bourbon varieties studied in 1945, only seven are still used in commercial cultivation in Brazil today.

Because Yellow Bourbon has relatively low yield and weak resistance to leaf rust, planting it may require more effort than other varieties. Yellow Bourbon is usually planted in areas above 1,000 meters in altitude, and its harvesting and processing require meticulous care to fully realize the variety's potential.

The flavor characteristics of Yellow Bourbon are very distinct, including sweetness, obvious aroma, and very prominent citrus acidity. It often carries flavors reminiscent of ripe fruit and raisins. Researchers have recently found a certain relationship among sucrose content, fats, and organic acids, and this relationship is related to the quality of Yellow Bourbon. However, so far, luteolin, the substance that determines the yellow color, has not shown much connection with flavor quality.

In 2005, IAC restarted research on this variety, but shifted its focus to the cup flavor experience. The 30 varieties studied in 1945 were collected again, and 16 plants scored above 85 in cupping. These were selected for tracking ideal lineages. Research led by Professor Gerson Giomo is still ongoing at IAC, and the team is looking for strong varieties that combine high productivity with excellent flavor potential.

In 2017, in a Cup of Excellence competition, Brazilian Yellow Bourbon scored 92.33 points in the natural category. That batch of coffee sold at auction for $126 per pound, 100 times the futures price at the time.

Queen Farm's Yellow Bourbon coffee beans

There is also a very delicious Yellow Bourbon coffee bean on Front Street's bean list, and it comes from the legendary Queen Farm.

Queen Farm (Fazenda Rainha) is located in the Alta Mogiana region of Sao Paulo state, north of Sao Paulo city. This farm is very well known in Brazil and is owned by the Carvalho Dias family. Carvalho Dias owns four major farms. Since the first Brazilian COE competition in 1999, they have won awards every year, with more than 12 awards over seven years. In 2004, they even took first place, ninth place, and eleventh place.

巴西黄波旁咖啡品种溯源:果实颜色遗传、风味表现与皇后庄园前街烘焙解析

In Brazil, a country dominated by mechanized cultivation focused on yield, there are few specialty coffee farms like Queen Farm that use hand-picking. Queen Farm is very small, covering only 280 mu, and 200 mu of that is entirely planted with Yellow Bourbon.

One of the most important reasons Brazil uses semi-natural processing instead of traditional natural processing is that traditional natural processing cannot guarantee the quality of large batches of coffee beans. Queen Farm, however, uses small-scale meticulous natural processing, employing African-style raised beds for drying, and during the natural process dedicated workers turn the beans and check their moisture content. This improves the quality of the coffee beans.

FrontStreet Coffee Roasting Analysis

When FrontStreet Coffee received this Yellow Bourbon coffee from Brazil's Queen Farm, it roasted four batches in total and finally decided to discharge the beans two minutes after first crack. At this roast level, Brazil Queen has obvious sweetness, but it is not a boring kind of sweetness. In the background there is a faint lemon aroma, and this aroma is even more prominent during the wet aroma stage. The finish shows obvious dark chocolate notes. The overall experience is relatively round, showcasing Brazil's overall characteristics while still retaining liveliness.

Flavor Description

The taste has obvious sweetness and contains rich notes of nuts and peanut butter. The finish shows obvious dark chocolate notes. The overall experience is relatively round. It is a coffee bean that can represent the overall characteristics of Brazilian coffee while also expressing its own unique liveliness.

巴西黄波旁咖啡品种溯源:果实颜色遗传、风味表现与皇后庄园前街烘焙解析

Professional coffee knowledge sharing. For more coffee bean information, please follow the WeChat public account: FrontStreet Coffee.

The above content is compiled by CoffeeHunters, a coffee news website.

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