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Arabica First Store: Yunnan Pu'er Catimor AAA Coffee Beans

November 12, 2016
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Arabica First Store Guide to Yunnan Pu'er Catimor AAA Beans

Yunnan Pu'er is the core of coffee cultivation in China, and Catimor AAA is the dominant variety there. It combines high yield with strong disease resistance, but it also draws debate over whether it reaches specialty-grade quality. Annual Yunnan output sits near 26,000 tons, roughly 90 percent of the national total.

Yunnan grows Arabica, known locally as small-bean coffee, across Lincang, Baoshan, Simao, Xishuangbanna and Dehong. The climate resembles Colombia's, with low latitude, high altitude and wide day-night temperature swings, so cupping places it in the full-bodied aromatic type. Baoshan once grew Typica and Bourbon, but farmers shifted to Catimor as old varieties proved harder to manage.

Yunnan Pu'er is the core region for coffee cultivation in China. The main variety, Catimor AAA, combines high yield with strong disease resistance, yet it also faces controversy over its insufficient specialty-grade quality. This article provides a comprehensive overview of the characteristics of Pu'er Catimor AAA coffee beans, from variety origin, cultivation distribution, and cupping flavors to the current state of the industry, along with Front Street Coffee's recommendations and tasting references, helping coffee enthusiasts understand the potential and limitations of this "Yunnan small-bean" coffee.

Flavor Description, Processing Method, Variety, and Taste Introduction of Yunnan Pu'er Catimor AAA Coffee Beans

China's coffee-growing landscape is mainly concentrated in Yunnan and Hainan provinces, with Yunnan holding an absolute advantage in production. In recent years, its annual output has reached approximately 26,000 tons, accounting for 90% of the national total. It is said that coffee was first introduced to Yunnan by the French seventy or eighty years ago. The locally dominant variety is Arabica, commonly known as small-bean coffee, and is often referred to domestically as Yunnan small-bean coffee. Yunnan possesses geographic and climatic conditions suitable for coffee cultivation, with growing areas distributed across Lincang, Baoshan, Simao, Xishuangbanna, Dehong, and other regions. Because Yunnan's natural environment closely resembles that of Colombia—low latitude, high altitude, and significant temperature differences between day and night—its small-bean coffee, after cupping quality analysis, is classified as a full-bodied aromatic type, with a taste quality close to that of Colombian coffee.

All coffee grown in the Pu'er region is of the Catimor variety. Baoshan City introduced Typica and Bourbon as early as the 1950s, which locals call "old varieties." These old varieties have weak resistance to pests and diseases, low yields, and require more labor to manage. Combined with no clear price advantage from market purchasing, coffee farmers in recent years have gradually switched to planting Catimor. From a botanical perspective, Yunnan small-bean coffee is genetically similar to the universally recognized finest Jamaican Blue Mountain and Hawaiian Kona.

In 1959, the Portuguese developed Catimor, also commonly written in Chinese as 卡蒂姆. It carries three-quarters Arabica lineage and one-quarter Robusta lineage, with its greatest characteristics being a robust plant and outstanding resistance to leaf rust. For coffee growers, it is a relatively ideal commercial variety in terms of yield, maturation period, pest and disease resistance, and flavor. However, once planted at high altitudes, Catimor's inherent "inferior traits" become apparent, whereas older Arabica varieties closer to the original species, such as Typica and Bourbon, can fully leverage their advantages. Currently, various Catimor series occupy a large planting area in Yunnan, with coffee farmers valuing three major strengths: short trees, high yield, and disease resistance (against stem borers and leaf rust). Somewhat regrettably, Yunnan Catimor has yet to win an award in any authoritative competition and cannot yet be considered specialty-grade; there is still a long way to go in terms of improvement and exploration.

1. [Production] Compared with the fame of Pu'er tea, Pu'er coffee's reputation and production do not match. Yunnan coffee production accounts for 98.8% of the national total; Pu'er coffee production accounts for 57.8% of Yunnan's total; and the price of one cup of Starbucks coffee is equivalent to 25 cups of AA-grade Yunnan coffee beans.

2. [Cultivation] In 2011, growing one mu of coffee trees in Pu'er could generate an income of 4,000 to 8,000 yuan.

3. [Export] Pu'er mainly plays the role of a primary raw material supplier, with most of its coffee supplied to multinational corporations in raw form. In 2011, 70% of the coffee beans produced in Yunnan were purchased by coffee giants such as Starbucks, Nestlé, and Maxwell House. Coffee exported from Pu'er accounted for 77.8% of Yunnan Province's total export volume.

4. [Roasting] Yunnan has the largest deep-processing coffee production line in the country, roasting up to 3,000 tons of coffee beans annually. Starbucks' joint-venture roasting company in Yunnan stated that after deep processing, the value of coffee beans can increase tenfold.

5. [Coffee Shops] As Yunnan coffee's largest coffee shop customer, Starbucks has over 13,000 stores in 39 countries worldwide, with approximately 230 located in mainland China. However, Starbucks has no stores in Pu'er, and to this day it remains difficult to find an authentic coffee shop in Pu'er.

6. [Retail] Nestlé purchases 12% of the world's annual coffee production each year, with its procurement proportion in Yunnan increasing year by year.

Front Street Coffee Recommendation: To experience the typical flavor of Pu'er Catimor AAA, Front Street suggests choosing a medium-light roast. In cupping, it often presents notes of nuts, caramel, and soft citrus, with medium body and a clean aftertaste. Front Street Coffee also offers roasted beans of Yunnan Pu'er Catimor AAA, suitable for pour-over or espresso blending.

The above content is compiled by CoffeeHunters, a coffee news website.

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