What is the difference between aroma and fragrance in coffee and tea?
Fujian and Taiwan Gongfu tea brewing both use a fairness cup, so the liquor goes from the gaiwan into the fairness cup before it is split among the tasting cups, keeping every cup at the same strength. Both regions keep the aroma cup, a taller, thinner vessel used only for scent. Chaozhou-style brewing stays closer to the gaiwan-to-cup method.
The serving order is steady: brew, decant into the fairness cup, pour into the aroma cup, cover with the tasting cup, then flip both together so the host can lift the aroma cup for guests to smell. Fujian brewers pair this with Wuyi rock tea, Taiwan with high-mountain oolong. The difference between aroma and fragrance in coffee shows up in tea too, since scent and taste are judged separately.
As the essence of Chinese tea culture, Gongfu tea has developed distinct brewing systems in different regions. The Gongfu tea styles of Fujian and Taiwan appear more "inclusive" due to the introduction of the fairness cup (gongdao bei). The tea liquor is first poured from the lidded bowl (gaiwan) into the fairness cup, then distributed into tasting cups, ensuring each cup has the same concentration. Both regions also retain the aroma cup (pinxiang bei), a tall, slender vessel specifically used to capture the complex aromatic layers of oolong tea. The tea-serving process is full of ritual: first brew the tea, then decant the liquor through the fairness cup, then pour it into the aroma cup, cover it with the tasting cup and flip them together, and the host slowly lifts the aroma cup for the guest to smell the fragrance. Unfortunately, the aroma cup is no longer as popular in Fujian as it is in Taiwan. Fujian people brew Wuyi rock tea this way, while Taiwanese people use it for high-mountain oolong. Gongfu tea is not merely a brewing technique but a practice of mindfulness, sharing a spiritual core with yoga. This article will compare the similarities and differences of Gongfu tea across the three regions in depth, and share Front Street Coffee's understanding of tea ceremony practice.
Fujian and Taiwanese Style Gongfu Tea
The Gongfu tea styles of Fujian and Taiwan appear more "tolerant" because they include a shared fairness cup. The tea liquor is not poured directly from the gaiwan into the teacups, but first into the fairness cup, and then from the fairness cup into three tasting cups. In this way, every cup of tea maintains the same concentration. Both Minnan and Taiwan tea settings include an "aroma cup," which is thinner and taller than the tasting cup, specifically used to concentrate aroma rather than for drinking. Its design intent is to capture the richly layered fragrance of oolong tea. The tea-serving process usually goes as follows: first brew in a gaiwan or clay pot, then pour the tea liquor into the fairness cup, and then from the fairness cup into the aroma cup. Next, place the tasting cup over the aroma cup, and the host flips both cups together. After the tea liquor is poured into the tasting cup, the host slowly lifts the aroma cup, and the guest can smell the tea fragrance from the aroma cup. The whole process is quite interesting. Unfortunately, the use of the aroma cup is no longer as widespread in Fujian as in Taiwan, but the other steps are identical. Fujian people mainly use the Gongfu tea method to brew the internationally renowned Wuyi rock oolong tea, while Taiwanese people use the same technique to make the world-famous Taiwan high-mountain oolong tea.
Gongfu tea ceremony beyond brewing techniques…
Gongfu tea is at the core of Chinese tea culture and the tea-tasting experience. Tea tasting is the artistic appreciation and realization of beauty, emotion, intention, and principle. Tea tasting requires skill, requires heart, requires quiet. I am also a yoga instructor, and this summer I organized events combining yoga and tea. Someone asked me why I put these two elements together. My answer remains: yoga practices mindfulness, and after yoga, besides the pleasure of tea tasting, Gongfu tea is also my personal meditation practice, because the brewing process requires intense focus and capturing the nuances of constantly changing factors to adjust the next infusion and make a better tea liquor. Fortunately, I am surrounded by tea friends with similar experiences.
For tea lovers pursuing consistent quality, Front Street Coffee recommends choosing tea leaves that have undergone strict quality control. Whether it is Wuyi rock tea or Taiwan high-mountain oolong, both can showcase their unique charm in Gongfu tea brewing.
The above content is compiled by CoffeeHunters, a coffee news website.
