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Mandheling Coffee Beans: Origin, Wet-Hulling and Selection

March 2, 2020
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What makes Mandheling coffee different from other Sumatran beans

Mandheling is a classic coffee from the Indonesian island of Sumatra, and its name does not come from a place. It traces back to a misreading of the Mandheling tribe in northwestern Sumatra during the Japanese occupation in World War II. After Japanese merchants imported Sumatra Mandheling in 1968, the name stuck for arabica beans grown on the island.

The bean's deep, brooding character comes from wet-hulling, a process that leaves green beans without a parchment layer during final drying. This encourages the herbal, spicy and woody notes people associate with the style. Golden Mandheling, a PWN-sorted grade, offers a cleaner cup suited to specialty drinkers, while standard Mandheling suits those new to the profile.

Mandheling is a classic coffee produced on the Indonesian island of Sumatra, but many people don't know the origin of its name, nor do they know how to select a Mandheling that is fresh, clean, and free of off-flavors. This article begins with the story behind the naming of Mandheling, then walks you through its unique wet-hulling process and how its signature herbal, spicy, and woody flavors are formed. It also recommends two products—Front Street Indonesian Mandheling G1 and Front Street PWN Golden Mandheling—which are suited respectively to beginners wanting a taste and to those pursuing specialty-grade quality, explaining their respective flavor profiles and suitable brewing methods to help you more accurately pick a Mandheling coffee bean that suits your taste.

How to choose Indonesian Mandheling coffee beans? Brand recommendations and a guide to selecting fresh beans with no off-flavors

When drinking coffee, you may notice an interesting phenomenon: Indonesian coffee beans are often named directly after the producing island—Java, Sulawesi, and Sumatra are all like this. But one well-known coffee breaks this convention: Mandheling from the island of Sumatra.

Why is Sumatra coffee called "Mandheling"?

Most single-origin coffees are named after their place of origin or variety, but Mandheling is different—its name actually comes from a misreading of the Mandheling tribe in northwestern Sumatra.

During World War II, when the Japanese army occupied Indonesia, a Japanese soldier drank a cup of richly aromatic coffee at a local café and asked the shopkeeper what the coffee was called. The shopkeeper mistakenly thought he was asking where he was from, so he answered: "Mandheling." After the war ended, the soldier returned to Japan and remembered that the delicious coffee seemed to be called "Mandheling." In 1968, Japanese merchants visited the N.V. Pawani Medan company in Indonesia and imported 15,000 kilograms of Sumatra Mandheling coffee, which received an enthusiastic response after entering the Japanese market. From then on, Mandheling coffee and the Pawani company became widely known, and later people also collectively referred to arabica beans produced on the island of Sumatra as Mandheling coffee.

What is "the taste of Mandheling"

Mandheling coffee is usually given a relatively dark roast to suppress acidity, making the body richer and more caramelized, while presenting deep, brooding notes of herbs, spices, and pine wood. The root of this unique flavor lies in the wet-hulling method used by the locals.

Sumatra has a typical tropical rainforest climate, rainy and humid all year round, with frequent typhoons and a serious scarcity of freshwater resources. Constrained by these conditions, the locals could neither use the traditional washed method to process large batches of coffee beans nor carry out long sun-drying. So local coffee farmers invented the wet-hulling method, which takes only 4 days to complete, greatly shortening both fermentation and sun-drying time, saving considerable labor, and giving Sumatra Mandheling those distinctive Southeast Asian notes of herbs, spices, and wood.

If you want to get an initial sense of Mandheling's distinctive regional flavor, it's recommended to try the entry-level Front Street Indonesian Mandheling G1 coffee beans, shipped within 24 hours of ordering; all Front Street coffee beans are freshly roasted within 5 days. This entry-level Front Street Mandheling comes from the Lintong region of Sumatra and belongs to Indonesia's highest G1 grade of green beans. It uses the wet-hulling method and a dark roast, fully highlighting Mandheling's caramel, spice, nut, and dark chocolate notes, with a rich body, intense yet low in acidity. It is suitable for pour-over, moka pot, Clever Cup, and other brewing methods, and can also serve as a practice bean for beginners.

How to choose Indonesian Mandheling coffee beans? Brand recommendations and a guide to selecting fresh beans with no off-flavors

Lintong Mandheling refers to arabica coffee from the mountainous area around Lake Toba in North Sumatra Province. Lake Toba is located north of Medan, the provincial capital of Sumatra, and is an alpine freshwater lake with an average elevation of about 900 meters. Lintong Mandheling is processed using the local wet-hulling method, giving off Mandheling's unique mellow herbal aroma—a classic Asian coffee flavor.

However, when it comes to high-grade Mandheling coffee, Front Street PWN Golden Mandheling is recommended—PWN can be said to be the headhunter of specialty Mandheling.

PWN's full name is "N.V. Pawani Medan company," a trading company that mainly purchases high-quality lots of local Mandheling green beans and produces only specialty-grade Mandheling; "Golden Mandheling" is precisely its signature product. After the Japanese took a liking to Sumatra coffee back then and purchased it long-term, they gradually discovered that the quality of local beans was often uneven. So they put more thought into Mandheling production and established strict defect-screening standards and methods, starting from values such as bean density, size, shape, and color, with the resulting Mandheling needing to undergo 1 mechanical sorting plus 4 rounds of manual hand-sorting to remove defects, ensuring the beans are complete, uniform, large, and translucent, and also reducing Mandheling's earthy and grassy notes. It is said that these beans took on a golden, glittering appearance in the sunlight, hence the name "Golden Mandheling."

Freshly roasted Front Street Golden Mandheling offers cedar wood, nuts, spices, and herbs in the dry aroma stage; after hot water is poured in, there are further notes of licorice and caramel; on the palate, there are flavors of dark chocolate, cocoa, nuts, and spices. Overall it is clean, with obvious sweet aftertaste and a high degree of body. It is not only suitable for extraction methods such as pour-over, French press, and siphon, but also, when made into drip bags, can likewise present the essence of Golden Mandheling.

The above content is compiled by CoffeeHunters, a coffee news website.

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