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Panama Geisha Coffee: Origin, Terroir and Espresso Use

April 22, 2021
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Where Does Panama Geisha Coffee Come From?

Panama Geisha coffee comes from Hacienda La Esmeralda, where the variety is widely considered to reach its highest expression. The Boquete region's high-altitude microclimate between the Pacific and Atlantic oceans shapes its delicate floral aroma and fruity acidity. Geisha was first found in Ethiopia's Kaffa Forest near the town of Gesha in the 1930s before reaching Panama.

Yes, Panama Geisha can be made as espresso, and a single-origin espresso, or SOE, is a common example, priced higher than regular espresso. In practice, roast level, extraction parameters and output consistency matter a lot. Many cafes choose pour-over instead, because that method tends to show the geisha coffee beans' floral and fruit notes more clearly than pressure extraction.

Geisha coffee is renowned worldwide for its delicate and elegant floral aroma and fruity acidity, and the Geisha produced at Panama's Hacienda La Esmeralda is widely recognized as the finest of them all. The Geisha variety originated in Ethiopia, yet it flourished under Panama's unique terroir, with the high-altitude microclimate of the Boquete region being especially crucial. As for whether Geisha can be used to make espresso, the answer is yes—an SOE made from single-origin beans is one example—but in practice, factors such as roast level, extraction parameters, and consistency of output must be considered. Front Street Coffee walks coffee lovers through the full picture of Geisha coffee, from variety characteristics and regional terroir to brewing methods, and shares why its stores choose to present Geisha as pour-over rather than espresso.

Which Origin Is Most Famous for Gesha Coffee? Can Panama Gesha Be Used to Make Espresso

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If you were to ask where the finest Geisha coffee is produced, there would be virtually no debate—Panama's Hacienda La Esmeralda. Panama's natural conditions created the legend of Geisha, and Panama coffee has become famous around the world thanks to Geisha. The Geisha produced in Panama is widely acknowledged as the best, and it differs noticeably from Geisha grown in its original home of Ethiopia. Although Geisha is usually used as a single-origin bean, it can also be used to make espresso; this method is called SOE, meaning espresso extracted from single-origin coffee beans. Such coffee is typically made from top-quality single-origin beans, is priced higher than regular espresso, and can showcase the distinctive regional flavors of different origins.

"The flavor of Panama coffee is extremely unique, perhaps because it sits between the Pacific Ocean and the Atlantic Ocean, with very special climate and conditions. Panama Geisha coffee is widely known, and that is exactly why I came here to seek out this unique flavor," said Jung Jung Lee, CEO of Maristela Baking and Coffee Lab, in the same vein.

Geisha Coffee

Geisha, also known as Gesha, is a rare coffee variety that only reveals its exceptional quality under extremely specific conditions. It was first discovered in Ethiopia's Kaffa Forest, growing wild near the town of Gesha in the 1930s. Geisha originated in Ethiopia, and Ethiopia is the birthplace of coffee as well as the country with the richest genetic diversity of coffee, with an enormous number of varieties—which is why many Ethiopian coffee beans simply list "heirloom" in the variety column.

The Geisha variety was discovered in 1931 in the Geisha Forest of Ethiopia. At the time, it received little attention locally and was even used as a windbreak, until the emergence of Panama's Hacienda La Esmeralda changed its fate. Geisha was later sent to the Kenya Coffee Research Institute, introduced to Uganda and Tanzania in 1936, brought to Costa Rica in 1953, and introduced to Panama in 1970. Eventually, Panama's Hacienda La Esmeralda separated it from other varieties and entered it in competition, winning the BOP championship in 2004 and shooting to fame overnight—only then did Geisha enter the public eye and become a leader among specialty coffees.

Although Panama Geisha was introduced and planted from Ethiopia, it still differs from Ethiopian Geisha in both variety and flavor. While the Geisha variety's flavor is exquisite, the formation of this elegant flavor is inseparable from a specific growing environment. Geisha is very demanding about growing conditions, requiring cultivation at higher altitudes with cloud cover or abundant shade trees and fertile soil. High-altitude Geisha coffee carries pronounced floral aromas and delicate, elegant fruity acidity, which is why Panama's growing environment is an important reason for Geisha's fame and one of the factors behind its global popularity.

Since Panama Geisha became famous, many places around the world have begun researching and cultivating the Geisha variety, including multiple estates in Panama itself. The Geisha coffee beans Front Street has sourced include not only those from Panama's Hacienda La Esmeralda, but also ones from Colombia and Costa Rica—and of course Ethiopian Geisha is indispensable as well. Front Street carries more than a dozen Ethiopian single-origin beans alone, and over 50 single-origin beans from around the world in total.

Panama Coffee Regions Panama's terrain is undulating throughout, with ravines and valleys crisscrossing the land; apart from the north and south coastal plains, it is mostly mountainous. Lying close to the equator, it has a tropical maritime climate, humid by day and cool at night, with an average annual temperature of 23–27°C. The year is divided into dry and rainy seasons, with average annual rainfall of 1,500–2,500mm. High-quality Panama coffee is mainly grown in northwestern Panama, near Costa Rica and close to the Pacific Ocean. Coffee produced in the Boquete coffee region of Chiriqui Province is very famous.

Which Origin Is Most Famous for Gesha Coffee? Can Panama Gesha Be Used to Make Espresso

【Boquete Coffee Region】

Boquete's growing altitude reaches as high as 1,400–1,900m. Located near the border between Panama and Costa Rica, close to the famous Baru volcano, it has beautiful scenery and fertile, rich soil, and its climate and soil are highly suitable for producing premium coffee. Within the Boquete region there are also many excellent estates; besides Hacienda La Esmeralda, there are also Elida Estate, Kotowa Duncan Estate, and others, all producing high-quality specialty coffee. This is due not only to the mild climatic conditions of Panama's Boquete area and the fertile volcanic ash soil of the Baru volcano, but also to another important factor: the changeable microclimates found in the Boquete highlands.

The washed Boquete Geisha coffee from the Boquete region, as a representative of Panama Geisha coffee, has been included in FrontStreet Coffee's lineup of everyday drinking beans.

Panama Hacienda La Esmeralda

The reason Panama Hacienda La Esmeralda's Geisha became a world-famous coffee came about by accident. Retired Swedish-American banker Rudolph A. Peterson bought Hacienda La Esmeralda in Panama to spend his later years, never expecting that an unintentional act would yield such results: the coffee trees on the estate bore fruit, and he casually sent them to a coffee competition, only to make a name overnight by winning the 2004 Panama Specialty Coffee competition's national championship. The Geisha from Panama's Hacienda La Esmeralda (Panama Geisha Hacienda La Esmeralda) can be said to be the most famous Geisha; starting in 2005, Hacienda La Esmeralda's Geisha has won more than a dozen championships in various world coffee competitions. Hacienda La Esmeralda's Geisha is generally divided into three tiers: Red Label, Blue Label, and Green Label. Top tier—Red Label [auction lot].

Can Panama Geisha coffee be used for espresso?

We know that coffee beans for espresso are mainly blends or dark roasts, so that the espresso has rich crema and a better mouthfeel. If lightly roasted coffee beans are used for espresso, the flavor may be more pronounced, stimulating, and sharply acidic. Although the now-popular SOE single-origin espresso can be made with single-origin specialty coffee beans, the roasting requirements for the beans are still relatively darker than for pour-over in order for it to taste good. So can Geisha coffee be used for espresso? In fact, Front Street believes that Geisha coffee beans can be used to make espresso—it's just that for such an expensive specialty coffee, Front Street would brew it as pour-over to better showcase Geisha coffee's characteristics. For example, the same goes for Blue Mountain coffee; Front Street also mostly brews it as pour-over.

As for Geisha coffee, FrontStreet Coffee's stores also offer Geisha coffee only as pour-over.

What is Geisha? Geisha is merely a variety of coffee, while espresso is merely a way of presenting coffee. Geisha coffee can be enjoyed through different brewing methods: it can be made into espresso with a semi-automatic espresso machine, brewed with a dripper, made with a moka pot, made with a drip coffee machine, and so on.

Geisha coffee's advantage lies in its more concrete flavors. For example, the washed Geisha from Panama's Hacienda La Esmeralda on FrontStreet Coffee's bean list—once brewed, several flavors are quite pronounced: floral, citrus, nuts, tea. What about Hacienda La Esmeralda's natural-process Geisha? Tropical fruit and floral notes can both be tasted.

Which Origin Is Most Famous for Gesha Coffee? Can Panama Gesha Be Used to Make Espresso

Why doesn't FrontStreet Coffee use Geisha coffee to offer espresso? The first reason is that we haven't yet dialed in Geisha coffee as espresso—how could a product that hasn't been adjusted and tested be served to customers? Even for the Warm Sun blend coffee beans used every day, FrontStreet Coffee's baristas adjust according to the beans' condition every day before opening. Besides the espresso parameters, using Geisha coffee to make Americano requires readjusting the ratio of espresso to water, and making milk coffee requires readjusting the ratio of espresso to milk. The second reason is from a product perspective: is Geisha coffee suitable as a daily offering? Obviously unrealistic. Besides the higher cost, not choosing Geisha coffee for espresso is actually the same logic as FrontStreet Coffee choosing a blend rather than a single-origin espresso to offer espresso.

What does it take to make espresso with Geisha coffee? To highlight Geisha coffee's flavors, the roast level certainly cannot be dark—competition brewers, for instance, mostly roast Geisha to a very light level, then extract with a large dose. What challenge does a lighter roast level pose for store offerings? It makes consistency of output harder to control.

The third reason is based on considering the Geisha variety's performance. We just shared that Geisha coffee's advantage lies in its sufficiently concrete flavors, but the Geisha variety also has disadvantages. Geisha coffee's biggest disadvantage as espresso lies in its insufficient body and mouthfeel; at the same time, if it's a washed-process Geisha coffee, its sweetness is also insufficient.

This is also why FrontStreet Coffee chooses blending as its store espresso beans. Blending is actually far more complex than imagined. When FrontStreet Coffee's roaster designed the Warm Sun blend in 2019, they had already tried using Sherry coffee beans as a single-origin espresso SOE option, but found it lacked layering, and only then added Yirgacheffe to experiment. In the end, after repeated testing, the ratio was finalized at 60% Sherry barrel coffee beans and 40% natural-process Yirgacheffe.

Front Street Brewing Suggestions:

Whether making espresso or pour-over, Front Street has always believed that the freshness of coffee beans has a great deal to do with coffee's flavor. Therefore, the coffee beans shipped by FrontStreet Coffee are all within 5 days of their roast date. Front Street's roasting mission is "freshly roasted good coffee," so that every customer who places an order receives the freshest coffee when it arrives. Coffee's resting period is about 4–7 days, so when the customer receives it, it is at its peak flavor.

Which Origin Is Most Famous for Gesha Coffee? Can Panama Gesha Be Used to Make Espresso

For friends who need ground coffee, Front Street offers a friendly reminder: once coffee beans are ground in advance, they no longer need resting, because during transport the pressure from carbon dioxide inside the packaging can also mellow the coffee's flavor—so as soon as you receive ground coffee, you can brew a cup right away. However, ground coffee needs to be brewed promptly, because ground coffee oxidizes relatively quickly after contact with air—that is, the coffee's flavors dissipate relatively quickly, and the coffee won't taste as good. So Front Street recommends buying whole beans and grinding fresh for each brew, so you can better taste the coffee's flavors.

The above content is compiled by CoffeeHunters, a coffee news website.

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