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Panama Gesha Coffee at Finca Sophia: Flavor and Mouthfeel

September 8, 2018
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What Sets Panama Gesha Coffee From Finca Sophia Apart?

Panama Gesha coffee from Finca Sophia comes from an estate planted at roughly 2,100 meters in the Panamanian rainforest, among the highest coffee farms in Central America. Founded in 2008, the farm grows only the Gesha variety, and its first harvest earned selection for the U.S. Good Food Awards and a first place in the washed Geisha category at reliable of Panama.

The owners built the farm around quality over quantity, letting altitude, tree spacing and pruning decisions serve cup quality rather than volume. Because so few coffee farms in Central America sit this high, Finca Sophia works as an experimental site. Its natural-process Gesha shows apple, grapefruit, papaya and fig notes with bright, juicy acidity.

On the coffee map of Central America, it is hard to find growing conditions more extreme than those at Finca Sophia—this estate, nestled in the Panamanian rainforest at an altitude of 2,100 meters, is one of the highest coffee farms in the region. Since its founding in 2008, it has focused solely on cultivating the legendary Geisha variety, and with the creed of "quality over quantity," after eight years of hard work, it finally welcomed its first harvest season. The results are eye-catching: its first harvest was selected for the U.S. Good Food Awards, and this May it took first place in the washed Geisha category at the Best of Panama coffee competition. This article will give you a complete interpretation of the unique charm of this cloud-top Geisha, from the estate's origins and sustainable growing philosophy to the flavor expression of the natural-process Geisha—apple, grapefruit, papaya, fig, and bright, juicy acidity.

What are the flavor and mouthfeel of the Geisha from Panama's Finca Sophia like? How does this coffee bean from the high mountains of Panama perform?

Deep in Panama's lush tropical rainforest, above the clouds at an altitude of 2,100 meters, a vibrant coffee estate is laying the foundation for a new era of sustainable growing. Only the legendary bean variety—Gesha—is planted on the grounds, and even if it cannot be called the highest farm in Central America, it firmly ranks among the highest in altitude. Now, its first harvest has finally reached the market, and its performance is stunning. Finca Sophia was founded in 2008, and its owners include Brooke McDonnell and Helen Russell of Equator Coffee (in April to May 2016, we conducted an in-depth Q&A with Helen, welcome to look back), as well as Willem Boot of Boot Coffees and former Equator coffee director David Pohl. For eight years, the owners have embarked on a remarkable journey of exploration, attempting to reimagine what a coffee farm should look like and how it should operate. "Quality over quantity" is their motto—from altitude selection, tree spacing, and pruning methods to every step of seeding, planting, and later refinement, all decisions are guided by improving quality.

Because coffee is rarely grown at an altitude of 2,100 meters in Central America, Finca Sophia is itself an experimental estate. On many levels, the owners are charting their own course, using this estate to challenge conventional wisdom and constantly push boundaries, all to create outstanding and rare coffee. Replacing quantity with quality is their consistent philosophy; altitude, spacing, pruning methods, and other arrangements, even the choice of seedling cultivation and processing methods, all serve to improve quality.

Given that this farmland was previously used for grazing and vegetable farming, the soil had long been compacted, and the owners were determined to rebuild Finca Sophia in a sustainable way. Today, hundreds of shade trees and thousands of coffee trees have been planted on the grounds, forming an ecological buffer between Parque Amistad Internacional and the surrounding large agricultural areas that lack forest cover. At present, about half of the 20 hectares has been planted, while the rest is either covered by forest or still in the process of planting.

The estate's stable operation depends on a loyal team. The leader is manager Kelly Hartmann—a true third-generation coffee farmer whose family were pioneers of coffee growing in this part of Panama as early as the 1920s. Six other workers come from Panama's indigenous Ngobe Bugle people, and they and their families have worked for Kelly on the farm for many years. These workers have brought their culture and customs into the estate, and it is this dedication that has turned Finca Sophia from an idea into reality, for which we are deeply grateful.

In 2017, Finca Sophia delivered a world-class harvest. The estate is located in the highlands of Panama at an altitude of 2,100 meters, ranking among the highest coffee farms in Central America; since its founding in 2008, it has exclusively cultivated the rare and renowned Gesha. When a legendary bean variety meets extreme growing altitude, it gives rise to a one-of-a-kind flavor in the cup. In 2016, the estate's first harvest was selected for the U.S. Good Food Awards winners list; moreover, this May, Finca Sophia once again lifted the first-place trophy in the fiercely competitive washed Geisha category at the Best of Panama coffee competition. It can be said that Finca Sophia is already one of the representatives of Panama's top coffee estates.

Looking back on the journey, this farmland was once compacted and barren due to over-cultivation, and it was precisely from this starting point that the owners turned Finca Sophia into a sustainable estate. Hundreds of shade trees and thousands of coffee trees are now rooted in the grounds, forming a natural barrier between Parque Amistad Internacional and the surrounding large areas of exposed agricultural land. Within the 20-hectare estate, half has been fully planted, while the rest is covered by forest or still being planted.

These coffee trees originate from a rare plant variety from Ethiopia—Gesha (also spelled Geisha in English, meaning "geisha"). With its slender, elegant beans, unique floral aroma, and clear taste, along with the chocolate notes often found in the cup, Geisha remains one of the most recognizable coffees in the world. This lot uses the dry process, also known as the "natural" method: the coffee beans remain inside the fruit to dry, rather than having the pulp removed before drying as in the washed process.

This year, Finca Sophia finally welcomed its long-awaited first harvest, and the results are astonishing! Equator once specially opened pre-sale channels for two lots, Lot 1 and Lot 3 (both are now sold out). Subsequently, Lot 3 won a gourmet award this month in San Francisco—undoubtedly the loudest affirmation of the hard work of everyone at the estate!

Flavor profile: apple, grapefruit, papaya, and fig unfold in layers; the acidity is smooth, accompanied by citrus and apple cider aromas; the acidity is bright and juicy, the mouthfeel has a slightly syrupy, silky texture, and the overall flavor is full and rich.

The above content is compiled by CoffeeHunters, a coffee news website.

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