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Should Coffee Beans Be Oily? Roast Level, Not Staleness

June 17, 2018
qj

Should coffee beans be oily, and does oil really mean stale?

Oily coffee beans are not automatically stale. Oil on the surface is tied mainly to roast level: darker roasts reach temperatures and durations that push oils out of the bean structure sooner. Because roast profiles differ, oil can appear while beans are still well inside their optimal drinking window, so shine alone is a weak freshness test.

Much of the familiar claim that oil equals old age traces back to translated Japanese texts from about thirty years ago, often written by enthusiasts rather than people working in roasting. Historically, from light cinnamon roasts to the Seattle dark roast trend, the roasting process changed when oil surfaced. Storage conditions and time since roast still matter, but judge them alongside the roast, not by sheen alone.

Many people read in coffee books that "beans releasing oil means they are no longer fresh," but such claims often originate from Japanese-translated materials from thirty years ago, and the authors may not have truly delved into industry practice. This article starts from roasting history to restore the real reason coffee beans release oil: oil release is directly related to roast level, not merely an indicator of freshness. From early cinnamon roasts to the Seattle dark roast trend, the time at which oil appears varies greatly with different roast levels, and some beans release oil while still within their optimal drinking period. Citing the professional perspective of Front Street Coffee, this article helps you reunderstand the true relationship between oil release, storage, and the optimal flavor period.

Many coffee-related books have written claims like: "Once coffee beans release oil, it means they are no longer fresh." But take a moment to think carefully—most of the source material for such books is actually old material translated from Japanese thirty years ago. If you pay a little more attention, you will also find that the vast majority of these authors are not from the coffee industry at all; they are often just ordinary coffee enthusiasts—such as columnists, journalists, or people regarded as "experts" with a keen interest in food. The question is, have they really personally investigated, operated, experimented, and devoted effort to this professional industry? Or is coffee merely for them a refined pastime and romantic small talk? If coffee were only about atmosphere and emotion, if coffee could be understood just by watching and doing a few interviews, then it probably could not have lasted for a thousand years.

Coffee beans "releasing oil" is directly related to roasting. In the early period when coffee was discovered, there was no such thing as "roasting" at all. For a full thousand years, people picked coffee fruit directly, washed it, and boiled it into a brew to drink. That way of drinking had nothing to do with atmosphere, emotion, or romantic refinement. The only reason coffee survived is "caffeine"—this was also the original reason coffee was discovered by humans. Although caffeine kept coffee brew from being discarded, this brew itself did not have enough fatal appeal to "suddenly" become popular after the fifteenth century. (A thousand years ago, drinking coffee was a very sacred ritual and could not be consumed at any time.)

Many people attribute coffee's popularity to ideologies that have nothing to do with coffee itself, such as "the prevalence of social activities" or "East-West cultural exchange." In fact, the reason coffee became popular is not that profound. The only reason coffee spread widely is "roasting"—it is that simple. If you compare coffee brew made by boiling cherry fruit with coffee brewed from ground roasted coffee beans, you will understand that I am not lying to you. Really, without "roasting," coffee's value is far inferior to other beans; at best, it is merely a source for extracting "caffeine."

Since coffee was "roasted," it began a history that swept across Europe and America, and at the end of the twentieth century ignited a coffee trend in Taiwan.

With roasting came the issue of "oil release"; with the issue of oil release came the issue of "storage." About thirty years ago, that is, before coffee entered the so-called "dark roast" era (a Seattle-style term), during this period and for a long time earlier, the mainstream brewing methods for coffee were filter and boil, and most coffee roast colors fell roughly between "cinnamon roast" and "medium roast." The greatest advantage of roasting at this color tone was that it was easy to roast and could be stored longer, especially in an era when packaging technology was not yet developed. Therefore, once oil emerged on the surface of coffee beans, it was almost equivalent to declaring that they had oxidized excessively. If you smelled carefully, there would be a slight "rancid oil smell," while "dampness" and "environmental odors" could be smelled even before oil appeared. In the case of "cinnamon roast," by the time oil release occurred, the beans had been sitting for at least two months.

After espresso machines switched to using a "pump" to obtain constant pressure in the 1960s, with advantages such as "fast," "stable," and "multifunctional," they gradually gained the competitive upper hand in the commercial market. This advantage changed the way coffee was "roasted." "Nine bars of pressure" made "light-roasted" coffee beans useless; the original "light yet sweet, slightly acidic aroma" became a "murky, bitter taste mixed with acetic acid and grassy odors." To solve this problem, people found that roasting coffee beans darker could reduce the release of sour and astringent flavors, so coffee roasting gradually shifted from "lighter roasts" to "darker roasts." As espresso machines became increasingly widespread, roast colors also deepened year by year, so that by the 1970s, the term "dark roast" was born in Seattle, USA.

Then came the problems. The color of "dark roast" coffee beans mostly falls between "high full city" and "french"; in Taiwan, this is described as between "medium-dark roast" and "second roast."

If explained in terms of the roasting process, "medium-dark roast" is roughly the stage roasted until the end of first crack, with a slightly glossy surface but no oil yet; "first roast" refers to the stage after second crack when the surface has already released oil; beans that are completely oily are called "second roast" (Italian). If this stage is not controlled properly, it can enter "charring" (in fact, many operators' dark-roasted coffee beans have already charred), and in more serious cases, "bean ignition" can even occur.

When "first roast" coffee beans are dropped, the bean surface is already covered with oil; after cooling, the oil retracts, and after about six to ten hours the oil appears again. When "medium-dark roast" coffee beans are dropped, the bean surface is also slightly oily and quite glossy; after being left for about twenty to thirty hours, oil begins to emerge on the surface. For a "medium slightly dark" roast one shade lighter, "oil release" occurs after about five to seven days. Under ordinary storage methods, the better drinking period for coffee is from the third to the twenty-first day after roasting. That is to say, for "medium slightly dark roast," when coffee undergoes "oil release," it is actually still within the better drinking period. Since it is still within the better drinking period, how can there be a claim that "oil release means it is not fresh"? (The times stated above are based on normal storage methods: after roasting and cooling, stored in a transparent sealed glass jar with a rubber gasket.)

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The above content is compiled by CoffeeHunters, a coffee news website.

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