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Honey Coffee Processing Explained: White, Yellow, Red and Black

May 10, 2018
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How Does Coffee Processing Affect the Honey Label?

Honey processing sits between natural and washed methods. The name comes from the Spanish word "Miel," which Costa Rican producers used for the sticky mucilage left on the seed. By keeping different amounts of that mucilage, the method builds body and sweetness while cutting water use compared with fully washed coffee. The more mucilage retained, the darker the honey label.

White, Yellow, Red and Black Honey differ in how much mucilage stays on the seed, how long the coffee dries and how often it is turned. The approach traces back to Brazil's pulped natural method and spread through Costa Rica when low world prices pushed farmers to process their own cherry. In 2006, producer Juan Ramón Alvarado took the top two places at the SCAA Costa Rica Golden Harvest with honey lots.

Honey processing is a coffee processing method that falls between natural and washed, its name derived from the Spanish word "Miel" (honey), and it was first popularized by Costa Rica. By retaining different proportions of mucilage, honey processing can impart coffee with a full-bodied sweetness and bright acidity, while significantly reducing water usage. Depending on the amount of mucilage left, it is further classified into White Honey, Yellow Honey, Red Honey, Black Honey, and other types, each differing in drying time, turning frequency, and flavor expression. This article will systematically outline the origin, processing principles, and classification standards of honey processing, and introduce the Guatemala New Oriente Geisha coffee beans recommended by Front Street Coffee.

Honey Processing Full Analysis: Flavor Differences and Craft Evolution from Pectin Retention to Yellow, Red, and Black Honey

What exactly does the "honey" in honey processing refer to?

The English term for honey processing is Honey Process, often also written as Miel Process, in which "Miel" means honey in Spanish. This name first spread from Costa Rica, where locals refer to the nearly sticky mucilage-like substance as "Miel."

This processing method, which sounds sweet just from its name, originated from Brazil's Pulped Natural (semi-natural/pulp natural), initially designed to reduce water consumption in production. As for how honey processing rose in Costa Rica, Front Street Coffee has identified two key time points.

In the latter half of the last century, Costa Rica was almost entirely focused on washed coffee, and with its innovative coffee depulping equipment and wet mills, it could be considered a pioneer of modern washed techniques. Around 1997 to 2000, international coffee prices remained depressed, and to increase income and sustain their livelihoods, many growers stopped selling coffee cherries directly to large processing stations and shifted to producing and selling on their own. This gave coffee farmers autonomy over the processing stage, and they were naturally willing to experiment more, which is how depulping and drying techniques were introduced into production.

Honey processing first came into public view in 2006, when a coffee farmer named Juan Ramón Alvarado won first and second place with two honey-processed coffees in the SCAA-organized Costa Rica GOLDEN HARVEST green bean competition. The following year, in the first Costa Rica CoE, 3 of the top five were honey-processed coffees.

In 2008, Costa Rica suffered a major earthquake, with severe power outages and water shortages in many areas. To cope with the crisis, local coffee farmers began adopting this "water-saving" process. Although many initially resisted, believing that drying with fruit pulp and mucilage could lead to uncontrolled fermentation, many farms not only achieved positive results after experimentation but also greatly reduced water consumption. Later, by controlling the degree of mucilage fermentation, they developed multiple honey processing methods with distinct flavors.

Honey Processing Full Analysis: Flavor Differences and Craft Evolution from Pectin Retention to Yellow, Red, and Black Honey

Why are there so many classifications of honey processing?

The drying time for honey processing falls between natural and washed, about 2 to 4 weeks. The flavor also tends to fall between the two, with most leaning toward the aromatic profile of natural coffee, often carrying ripe fruit and dried-fruit-like sweetness, while also having solid bright acidity, a characteristic traditional natural coffee rarely possesses.

Compared with washed processing, honey processing can reduce freshwater use by about 40%, and also avoids the defective negative flavors caused by prolonged exposure to the sun. Coffee produced with honey processing usually presents a full and delicate fruity sweet-tartness and refined complex floral notes in cupping, with an overall fresh and clean profile. Water-saving, environmentally friendly, and excellent in flavor, honey processing gradually became popular in Central and South America, and honey-processed coffee is also widely favored in the specialty market. The Guatemala New Oriente Geisha coffee on Front Street's bean list is produced using honey processing, presenting flavors of sweet orange, white champaca, bergamot, and toffee when brewed, with an impressive round sweetness.

Front Street Coffee: Guatemala New Oriente Geisha Coffee Beans

Region: Guatemala New Oriente Region

Altitude: 1500-2050 meters

Processing method: Honey Process

Variety: Geisha

Flavor: Sweet orange, toffee, bergamot

Coffee mucilage is mainly located beneath the skin and pulp and above the parchment, and is composed of water, protein, reducing sugars, pectin, and other components. In fact, mucilage is also part of the pulp. When coffee cherries ripen, pectinase is produced inside, and the enzyme breaks down pectin bonds, softening the originally firm pulp fibers into a sugar-rich, pectin-rich hydrogel mucus. After machine removal of the skin and most of the firm pulp, the mucus layer remaining outside the parchment is what we call "mucilage."

In coffee processing, mucilage is a very sweet substance with high water content, high sugar content, and it does not easily separate from the coffee seed. Therefore, the key to honey processing creating refined fruity flavors lies in the amount of mucilage retained and the degree of sugar fermentation. Farmers can use specialized quantitative demucilage equipment, or adjust the number of daily manual turnings, to obtain green coffee beans of different honey colors.

Honey Processing Full Analysis: Flavor Differences and Craft Evolution from Pectin Retention to Yellow, Red, and Black Honey

Black Honey retains the highest amount of mucilage, with almost no mucilage removed, and takes the longest to dry, usually requiring more than 14 days. During the process, to prevent drying too quickly, covers are used to block overly strong sunlight so that sugar conversion is more complete. In some regions, black honey processing also uses shade drying to ensure sugars are converted into the coffee beans in time, though the drying time is correspondingly extended. Front Street's observation of black honey-processed green coffee beans found that because more mucilage is retained, the color is noticeably uneven, and it smells of intense fermentation.

Red Honey retains about 50-80% of the mucilage, placing it exactly between washed and natural, and it is also the most common honey color type on the market. The darker the beans, the fewer manual turnings are needed, so black honey is usually turned only once a day, red honey needs several turns a day, and yellow honey must be turned every hour; the coffee cherries generally take about 12 days to dry completely. Front Street observed from red honey-processed green beans that the color is lighter than black honey, and it smells of a faint fermented fruitiness.

Yellow Honey generally retains 15-50% of the mucilage and requires the most direct sunlight for heat absorption, taking about 8 days to reach a stable moisture content. Because yellow honey-processed beans retain very little mucilage, they look relatively uniform yellow-green to the naked eye, and smell of grassy notes mixed with brown rice aroma.

White Honey retains only about 10%-15% of the mucilage, is usually dried in the open air, and needs frequent turning to maintain the upper limit of enzyme and bacterial activity; spread on the drying bed in a thinner layer, it therefore takes less time to dry. Compared with other degrees of honey processing, white honey green beans are the lightest in color and smell of elegant herbal aromas.

In theory, darker honey types such as black honey and red honey are closer to natural coffee than lighter types such as yellow honey and white honey, and their fermented character is more obvious. However, even today, the industry still has no precise standard to define honey processing of different colors, and it mostly depends on the producer, resulting in naming confusion—for example, the "red honey" produced by one farm may be called "yellow honey" by another.

The above content is compiled by CoffeeHunters, a coffee news website.

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