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Mandheling Coffee and Indonesia's Wet-Hulled Coffee Bean Processing Method

June 22, 2020
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What Makes Wet-Hulled Coffee Bean Processing Unique to Indonesia?

Mandheling coffee is known for a full body, low acidity, and herbal spice notes, and those traits trace back to Indonesia's wet-hulling method. Coffee bean processing here responds to climate: year-round humidity of 70% to 90%, high temperatures, short sunshine hours, and typhoon-season rain make both natural and washed processing impractical for Sumatra.

Wet-hulling was developed as the workable alternative under those conditions and now shapes the classic Mandheling profile of herbal, nutty, and pine notes. Regions such as Lintong and lots sold as Golden Mandheling are roasted medium-dark for a full mouthfeel. For more specialty coffee knowledge, the source points readers to Front Street Coffee's public account.

Indonesian Mandheling coffee is famous for its full body, low acidity, and herbal spice flavors, and behind this lies the unique local wet-hulling process. This article systematically introduces the origin and specific steps of the wet-hulling method, compares it with the washed process, outlines the producing regions, varieties, and flavor characteristics of Lintong Mandheling and Golden Mandheling, and shares Front Street Coffee's brewing parameters and freshness recommendations, helping coffee enthusiasts fully understand the uniqueness of this representative Asian coffee.

Indonesian Wet-Hulled Processing Method Explained: Mandheling Coffee's Craft Characteristics, Flavor Expression, and Brewing Essentials

For more specialty coffee knowledge, please follow the WeChat public account: Front Street Coffee (FrontStreet Coffee)

What is wet-hulling? It is a processing method exclusive to Indonesian coffee beans. Coffee bean processing methods are often closely related to the climate of the producing region. The fundamental reason Indonesia chose this unique method is that the local area is rainy with frequent typhoons, lacking the long hours of sunny weather required for the natural process; at the same time, local economic conditions are limited, making it difficult to bear the higher costs of the washed method. Indonesia has high temperatures and high humidity year-round, with short sunshine hours and air humidity maintained at 70% to 90% throughout the year. Under these conditions, pure natural processing is almost impossible, and for the weather-variable island of Sumatra, even the washed process struggles to string together a continuous week of sunny days for drying. The wet-hulling method was thus born, accidentally becoming the world's one-of-a-kind processing method, and also shaping the classic flavor of Indonesian Mandheling with its interwoven herbal, full-bodied, nutty, and pine notes.

To experience the signature flavor of the wet-hulling method, you can purchase Front Street Indonesian Mandheling. This single-origin daily drinker bean is widely popular, using a medium-dark roast, with a full mouthfeel and rich aroma, carrying the typical style of Asian beans.

Front Street's daily drinker bean Indonesian Mandheling has always been highly favored, especially the single-origin Golden Mandheling. Some people may not quite adapt to the taste of Mandheling, but consumers who love this flavor often can't do without it after one sip. Mandheling is the representative of Asian coffee, presenting clear pine, herbal, and nutty caramel notes, with some even describing it as having a Chinese medicine-like quality. However, Mandheling is also one of the fullest-bodied coffees in the world.

Mandheling is also known as "Sumatra coffee." Most of what is produced in North Sumatra is Gayo, mainly the Ateng variety; the area around Lake Tawar at the northern tip can be called Aceh coffee or Tawar Lake coffee; only the Lintong and Toba Lake areas of South Sumatra can be called Mandheling, and the Lintong area is the core producing region of Mandheling. Mandheling originates from the mountainous area around Lake Toba, which is located north of Medan, the provincial capital of Sumatra, and is an alpine freshwater lake with an average elevation of about 900 meters. Sumatra's mysterious and unique natural environment gives Mandheling coffee a distinct personality: a full-bodied mouthfeel, intense flavor, accompanied by faint chocolate and herbal notes.

Mandheling is also known as "Sumatra coffee." Lake Tawar at the northern tip can be called Aceh coffee or Tawar Lake coffee, while the Lintong and Toba Lake areas can be called Mandheling. Front Street has two Mandheling coffees, namely the daily drinker series Indonesian Mandheling and the single-origin Golden Mandheling.

Lintong Mandheling

Lintong Mandheling comes from the Lintong mountain area in north-central Sumatra, near Lake Toba. Lintong Mandheling is the regular version of Mandheling, also using the conventional wet-hulling method, and thus has the characteristics of low acidity and high body. Front Street's daily drinker bean Indonesian Mandheling comes precisely from Lintong.

Indonesian Wet-Hulled Processing Method Explained: Mandheling Coffee's Craft Characteristics, Flavor Expression, and Brewing Essentials

Golden Mandheling

If you want to taste higher-quality wet-hulled coffee, you can choose Front Street PWN Golden Mandheling. It is produced by Pawani Coffee Company after purchasing Mandheling locally in Indonesia and has registered the name Golden Mandheling, so only Mandheling produced by this company is authentic Golden Mandheling coffee.

As one of the top-quality coffees, Front Street Golden Mandheling's green bean specification is 18 mesh and above, with fewer than 3 defective beans (in a 300g green bean sample), belonging to the highest grade G1, with a darker green color and a neat flat bean shape. After strict screening, Front Street Coffee found that it not only removes the earthy miscellaneous flavors common in ordinary Mandheling, but also tastes cleaner and more transparent, with a more prominent sweetness.

The difference between Golden Mandheling and ordinary Mandheling is not just bean size; its production process and producing region selection themselves determine the flavor differences. Front Street believes that for professional-level coffee enthusiasts and tasters with keen palates, if they taste both coffees at the same time, the difference will be very obvious: Golden Mandheling's sweetness and cleanliness, body, and wild spice-series flavors are all superior to G1, which is also one of the reasons why Golden Mandheling's price is much higher than G1.

Indonesian Wet-Hulled Processing Method Explained: Mandheling Coffee's Craft Characteristics, Flavor Expression, and Brewing Essentials

How does the wet-hulling method for Mandheling coffee beans differ from the washed process? The washed process retains the mucilage for fermentation first, then rinses off the residual mucilage with clean water, followed by direct sun drying, and the coffee beans are stored together with the parchment. The wet-hulling method, however, first ferments in a washed manner, then performs semi-drying, after which the parchment is removed by machine, followed by final drying, and the coffee beans enter the storage stage "bare and smooth." Mandheling coffee's body ranks among the top in specialty coffee, with its heavy mouthfeel and low acidity being its hallmark, while the dark chocolate and caramel-like smoothness and sweetness bring a lasting finish to the latter part, with rich layers of mouthfeel.

Specific steps of the wet-hulling method for Mandheling coffee beans:

1. Coffee farmers first pick ripe coffee cherries and put them into a water tank, using flotation to remove debris and unripe cherries.

2. Then use a depulper to remove the fruit flesh and skin, retaining the endocarp and mucilage, and carry out a short fermentation to break down the mucilage.

3. Dry the cleaned green coffee beans in the sun, placing the parchment-covered coffee beans under sunlight for 1 to 2 days, reducing the moisture content to 30% to 50%.

Indonesian Wet-Hulled Processing Method Explained: Mandheling Coffee's Craft Characteristics, Flavor Expression, and Brewing Essentials

4. Next, use a machine to remove the mucilage and parchment layer. After the endocarp is hulled off, the coffee beans are dried once more. The drying process takes 2 to 4 days, reducing the moisture content to about 12% to 13%, and the processing is then complete.

Teacher Han Huaizong once described the flavor characteristics of wet-hulled coffee beans in his book: "This is also a rare processing method in the world, accidentally creating Mandheling's special low-acidity, thick, and stuffy-aroma flavor."

Although the wet-hulling method creates Mandheling's unique flavor, it also brings a problem: the semi-hard, semi-soft moist green beans are easily crushed when the mucilage and parchment layer are hulled off, and the beans crack under damage, shaped like a goat's hoof, commonly known as goat hoof beans. Front Street Coffee (FrontStreet Coffee) considers this a very notable characteristic of Mandheling coffee beans, and does not count it as a defective bean.

Mandheling coffee bean varieties

Mandheling specifically refers to Arabica coffee beans grown on the Indonesian island of Sumatra, with varieties mostly being TimTim or Ateng. TimTim is Timor, an Arabica variety with Robusta lineage; Ateng is Catimor, hybridized from Caturra and Timor.

Both varieties combine the genes of Arabica and Robusta. The Arabica genes bring better coffee flavor, while Robusta gives stronger resistance to pests and diseases, making them suitable for growing in Indonesia's hot and humid climate.

The disadvantage of the Robusta genes is that the flavor is relatively rough and not particularly pleasant to drink. Even though Mandheling varieties are mainly based on Arabica genes, they cannot completely eliminate Robusta's dull tone, and add Indonesia's unique processing method's "hardcore" operation.

Therefore, no matter which type of Mandheling coffee bean, they all exhibit full-bodied flavors such as herbal, spice, and cocoa, with low acidity and high body. These are precisely the unique flavor characteristics of the Sumatra producing region.

Observant friends may notice the "goat hoof shape" characteristic of Mandheling coffee beans. Front Street has also noticed that they share the common bean appearance feature of "goat hoof shape." This is because the semi-hard, semi-soft moist green beans are easily crushed when the mucilage and parchment layer are hulled off by machine, and the beans crack under damage, shaped like a goat's hoof, commonly known as goat hoof beans. "Goat hoof shape" is a very notable characteristic of Mandheling coffee beans, so it is not counted as a defective bean.

Front Street's parameters for brewing Mandheling coffee:

Front Street uses the KONO dripper to brew Mandheling coffee. KONO's ribs stop at a position less than half the height of the dripper. This design is intended to make the dripper cling tightly to the cup wall after wetting, restricting airflow, thereby increasing the water absorption time of the coffee grounds, making the extracted coffee more uniform overall, and enhancing the full-bodied mouthfeel.

Indonesian Wet-Hulled Processing Method Explained: Mandheling Coffee's Craft Characteristics, Flavor Expression, and Brewing Essentials

KONO dripper, 88°C water temperature, 1:15 coffee-to-water ratio, 15g coffee grounds, grind size (75% passing rate on a No. 20 standard sieve), three-stage extraction.

Use staged extraction, using 2 times the coffee grounds' weight in water for blooming, that is, 30 grams of water for a 30-second bloom. The purpose of blooming is to let the coffee grounds release internal carbon dioxide, making the later extraction more stable. Pour in a small stream in circles until 125 grams for the stage, continue pouring until 225 grams and stop, and after the water in the dripper has dripped through, remove the dripper. Timing starts from the beginning of pouring, and the extraction time is 2'00". Next, swirl the entire cup of coffee to mix it evenly, then pour it into a cup to taste.

[Lintong Mandheling Coffee Flavor] Herbal, chocolate, caramel, overall relatively balanced.

[Golden Mandheling Coffee Flavor] Nuts, spices, herbs, licorice, chocolate, caramel.

Front Street's coffee brewing recommendations:

To brew a delicious cup of coffee, Front Street believes that any brewing method requires fresh coffee beans. Front Street has always believed that the freshness of coffee beans has a great impact on flavor, so the coffee beans shipped by Front Street Coffee (FrontStreet Coffee) are all within 5 days of the roast date. Front Street's roasting philosophy is "freshly roasted good coffee," so that every customer who places an order receives the coffee in its freshest state. Coffee's resting period is about 4 to 7 days, so when customers receive it, it is precisely at its best flavor.

For those who need ground coffee, Front Street warmly reminds: after coffee beans are ground in advance, there is no need to rest them anymore, because during transportation the pressure generated by carbon dioxide inside the packaging can also make the coffee flavor rounder, so once you receive the ground coffee, you can immediately brew a cup and drink it. However, ground coffee needs to be brewed promptly, because after ground coffee contacts air it oxidizes relatively quickly, and the flavor dissipates faster, so the coffee's flavor will not be as good. Therefore, Front Street recommends buying whole beans and grinding fresh before brewing, so that you can better taste the coffee's flavor.

There are many processing methods for coffee beans, but they are all built on the foundation of washed and natural processes. At the same time, different processing methods lead to different flavors. With the development of specialty coffee, many processing methods have been introduced, such as honey processing, anaerobic processing, and so on. Front Street has acquired coffee beans from all these processing methods, such as Costa Rica honey-processed Mirazu Geisha coffee and the Musician series Mozart coffee; Colombia anaerobic-processed Flower Moon Night coffee and Rose Valley coffee, and so on. Front Street has more than fifty coffee beans from different producing regions, fully able to satisfy coffee friends' exploration and understanding of coffee.

The above content is compiled by CoffeeHunters, a coffee news website.

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