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Pacamara and the Arabica Variety in El Salvador Coffee Regions

September 1, 2016
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Which Arabica Variety Stands Out in El Salvador Coffee Regions?

El Salvador, the smallest country in Central America, still holds nine coffee-producing regions and a notable arabica variety lineup: Bourbon, Pacas, and Pacamara. A washed Pacamara from the Sonsonate Izalco region serves as the example here, with pour-over parameters and flavor notes that show how the country's specialty coffee performs in the cup.

Coffee reached El Salvador between 1779 and 1796, after the indigo economy faded and before government support for cultivation began in the mid-19th century. The industry later absorbed civil war and leaf rust pressure. The arabica arabica line carried through those shifts, and Pacamara remains one of the country's recognizable varieties today.

As the smallest country in Central America, El Salvador nonetheless boasts a rich diversity of coffee-producing regions and impressive specialty coffee performance. Since coffee was introduced in the 18th century, the country's coffee industry has weathered the shift from the indigo economy, the impact of civil war, and the leaf rust crisis, while also giving rise to representative varieties such as Bourbon, Pacas, and Pacamara. Front Street Coffee will guide you through the rise and fall of Salvadoran coffee, explain the distribution of its nine major producing regions and variety structure, and use a washed Pacamara from the Sonsonate Izalco region as an example to provide pour-over parameters and flavor descriptions, helping you gain a more systematic understanding of this country's coffee characteristics.

El Salvador Coffee Producing Regions: Historical Context, Main Varieties, and Pacamara Flavor Analysis

Although El Salvador is the smallest country in Central America by land area, it has no shortage of coffee-producing regions. In recent years, many outstanding Salvadoran specialty coffees have appeared on the market, leaving a lasting impression. Now let Front Street take you into the world of Salvadoran coffee.

The Coffee Story of El Salvador

After reviewing the materials, Front Street learned that El Salvador's history of coffee cultivation dates back to the mid-18th century, and the coffee industry has been closely intertwined with the country's development.

During the colonial era, indigo was a natural dye and the earliest agricultural product to be produced on a large scale in El Salvador's history, typically processed and extracted from the leaves of a plant called "Jiquilite." For most of the 18th century, indigo production almost dominated the local economy; however, the European Industrial Revolution gave rise to the synthetic dye industry, and this traditional craft quickly lost its competitiveness.

According to relevant literature, coffee was introduced to El Salvador sometime between 1779 and 1796, with the earliest coffee trees appearing on the land of two farmers from Ahuachapán. Although coffee took root in this land as early as the 18th century, the government did not truly step in until the mid-19th century, adopting a series of measures to support and promote domestic coffee cultivation. In the 1930s and 1940s, favorable credit policies for coffee growers drove strong growth across the industry, with coffee once accounting for over ninety percent of El Salvador's total agricultural exports.

Starting in 1857, coffee cultivation spread across the entire territory of El Salvador, beginning from Ahuachapán and then extending to Santa Ana and Sonsonate, followed by introduction to western San Vicente, the mountains of Berlín, and the area around Volcán Chaparrastique in San Miguel. To this day, coffee trees blanket every part of El Salvador and have become the primary crop for many farmers.

The modernization of coffee cultivation in El Salvador began with the stimulus of high prices in the 1950s. Farmers began interplanting coffee trees with other crops for shade, while introducing fertilizers and moderately increasing planting density to focus on raising yields per unit area. As a result, by the mid-1970s El Salvador had become the world's fifth-largest coffee producer and fourth-largest coffee exporter, with a harvest of 5 million quintals.

However, during the 1980s and 1990s, civil war broke out in El Salvador. Large numbers of individual farmers came under armed pressure from guerrilla forces and the military, coffee sales and exports were forcibly nationalized, and farmers were forced to halt investment in their farms. This led to a precipitous decline in both production and prices of Salvadoran coffee between 1997 and 2001. According to ICO data, the country's coffee production fell by more than 34% during this period. In 2013, coffee leaf rust spread nationwide, and only 3% of the coffee trees planted in El Salvador were rust-resistant varieties, causing production to plummet by nearly 60% in the 2014 harvest season.

It was not until 2014 that the agricultural administration, led by Minister of Agriculture and Livestock Lic. Orestes Ortéz, resolved to revitalize coffee cultivation, establishing a dedicated CENTA coffee department to strengthen scientific and technical support. The department assembled a team of 80 technicians working under the guidance of Dr. Adán Hernández, a Salvadoran coffee cultivation expert. They not only provided fungicides to combat coffee tree rust but also developed new varieties with stronger rust resistance for farmers, helping coffee growers renovate their plantations while improving both quality and yield.

El Salvador's Coffee Regions and Varieties

According to statistics, El Salvador currently has over 130,000 hectares of coffee cultivation, of which about half consists of low-altitude coffee plantations, 33% is mid-to-high altitude coffee, and only the remaining 16% is high-altitude coffee. Among all growers, 85% are smallholders operating less than 7 hectares, with only a small portion cultivating more than 7 hectares.

El Salvador has nine major coffee-producing regions: Apaneca, Apaneca Llamatepec, El Balsamo-Quetzaltepec, Cacahuatique, and Santa Ana in the southwest; Chalatenango, Chichontepec, and Metapan in the north-central area; and Tecapa-Chinameca scattered among the river valleys.

Although Typica was the first Arabica variety cultivated on a large scale in El Salvador, due to the impact of leaf rust, most farms gradually switched to Bourbon starting from the 19th century. By the mid-20th century, Bourbon mutated into Pacas, which was pedigree-traced by ISIC and vigorously promoted for cultivation. Today, Bourbon and its mutation Pacas have become the mainstay varieties in El Salvador's coffee plantations. Among them, Bourbon accounts for over sixty percent of plantings, while Pacas accounts for nearly a quarter of the country's coffee production.

However, compared to these two common varieties, the one that has earned a place in El Salvador's COE with its high-quality flavor is the Pacamara, which has gained fame in recent years. This is a large-bean variety developed by the Salvadoran Coffee Research Institute (ISIC) through crossbreeding Pacas with the Maragogype, a Typica mutation from Brazil. This variety retains the excellent cup quality of Pacas while the green beans also inherit the large size of Maragogype. In terms of flavor, it has a lively, bright acidity, sometimes displaying biscuit-like notes, sometimes a juicy texture, with outstanding body and creaminess.

El Salvador Coffee Producing Regions: Historical Context, Main Varieties, and Pacamara Flavor Analysis

Front Street Coffee: El Salvador Pacamara Coffee Beans

Region: Sonsonate Izalco area Farm: Finca Ataisi Grade: SHG Altitude: 1,800 meters Variety: Pacamara Processing Method: Washed Flavor: Nuts, chocolate, cream, strawberry jam, passion fruit

Flavor Characteristics of Salvadoran Coffee

Front Street Brewing Suggestions

Dripper: V60

Water Temperature: 90℃

Coffee-to-Water Ratio: 1:15

Grind Size: Fine granulated sugar coarseness (80% passing through China's No. 20 standard sieve)

Pour the coffee grounds into the V60 dripper, wet the coffee bed with twice the amount of water to form a dome and bloom for 30s. Then pour in a thin stream in a circular motion from the center outward until reaching 125g, pause, and wait for the coffee bed to drop to half the height of the dripper. Continue pouring the third stage with the same thin stream until reaching 225g. Once all the coffee liquid has filtered through, remove the dripper. Total time is approximately 2 minutes.

Front Street tasted this Pacamara coffee through pour-over extraction: the entry is very delicate and silky, with clear and gentle fruit acidity gliding across the tongue. Like all Pacamara characteristics, it is quiet and soft, with the mid-palate showing fresh wild berry acidity and hazelnut-like nuttiness, while the finish has pronounced caramel sweetness, a long, delicate, smooth sweetness, and a lasting pleasant aftertaste.

The above content is compiled by CoffeeHunters, a coffee news website.

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