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Kenyan Specialty Coffee: Nyeri Beans and the Auction System

July 27, 2016
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Why Does Kenyan Specialty Coffee Taste Like Fruit Tea?

Kenyan specialty coffee is known for rich aroma and bright fruity acidity, often compared to blackberry and grapefruit. Its character comes from high-altitude growing conditions plus a strict grading and auction system. The washed beans are medium to bright in acidity, crisp in texture, and work well as iced coffee or single-origin pour-over.

Most Kenyan lots come from smallholder farmers, so climate and rainfall differences show up in the cup. The AA Plus grade "Kenya AA+ Samburu" illustrates this: the 2001 crop showed smoked plum and lower acidity, while the 2002 harvest brought mulberry, green plum, and spice notes. Lightly roasted Kenyan coffee keeps that fruity clarity and green-tea-like finish.

Kenyan coffee is renowned worldwide for its rich aroma and bright fruity acidity, and is often described as a "fruit tea" that combines the notes of blackberry and grapefruit. Its unique flavor not only comes from the high-altitude growing environment, but is also inseparable from its well-established grading and auction system. This article will provide a comprehensive interpretation of the charm of Kenyan specialty coffee, from flavor and mouthfeel, regional characteristics, historical production changes, to market systems. The washed Kenyan beans recommended by Front Street Coffee are precisely the ideal choice for experiencing this classic flavor.

High-quality Kenyan coffee is characterized by its fragrant aroma, full body, and rich fruitiness, with an overall rich and balanced flavor profile. Its astonishing fruity tone allows one to sense the interwoven notes of blackberry and grapefruit on the palate, making it a favorite among many veteran coffee enthusiasts. This coffee has medium to bright acidity, a crisp yet refreshing texture, and a lively, fresh flavor, making it especially suitable for drinking as iced coffee in the hot summer. If paired with fruits that have fruity acidity, such as pomelo, when enjoying it, the coffee experience can be pushed to the extreme. Many people feel that this lightly roasted Kenyan coffee is "not so much like coffee as it is closer to fruit tea."

In addition to its distinct and captivating fruity acidity, Kenyan coffee also displays diverse and unique characteristics because most beans come from smallholder farmers and are grown under varying environmental conditions, with different climate and rainfall each year. Take the AA Plus grade "Kenya AA+ Samburu" as an example. The 2001 Samburu had a strong aroma of smoked plum, lower acidity, and a full body; while the newly harvested Samburu in the winter of 2002 had a completely different flavor, presenting notes of mulberry berries and green plum, mixed with a slight scent of Southeast Asian spices, leaving a green tea-like sweet aftertaste in the finish. Its acidity was slightly higher than the previous year, but the body remained. Commonly found Kenyan coffee on the market may not necessarily have a heavy mouthfeel, but it possesses a bright, fruity charm; some carry spicy notes, while others reveal a red wine aroma. Kenya is precisely a origin that allows coffee lovers to continually harvest anticipation and surprises. From an international perspective, Kenya's coffee export growth has been very significant: exports were 800,000 bags in the 1969-1970 season, and climbed to 2 million bags by the 1985-1986 season. Today, production is stable at around 1.6 million bags, with an average yield of about 650 kilograms per hectare. Before the recent sharp rise in coffee prices, the average price of Kenyan coffee had already been continuously rising. The price in the 1993-1994 season rose by 50% compared with 12 months earlier, and this was mainly attributed to increased demand.

However, some buyers, especially Japanese traders, have expressed dissatisfaction with Kenya's coffee industry system. Some traders also claim that the country's coffee quality has declined and believe that purchasing directly from farmers may be a path to improving quality. Nevertheless, Kenya's detailed rules and regulations and complete procedures still serve as a model worth referencing for all coffee-producing countries.

Kenyan coffee became even more famous due to the sensational effect of the Hollywood film *Out of Africa*. In the film, the heroine Karen, played by Meryl Streep, is a writer and coffee plantation owner. Many people may still remember the moving scenery and magnificent sunsets in the movie, but what is even more memorable is Karen's dream of owning a coffee plantation in Africa. The Kenyan government attaches great importance to the coffee industry. Here, cutting down or destroying coffee trees is illegal. Buyers of Kenyan coffee are all world-class quality coffee purchasers, and no other country can continuously grow, produce, and sell coffee like Kenya. All coffee beans are first purchased in a unified manner by the Coffee Board of Kenya (CBK), identified and graded, and then sold at weekly auctions, where they are no longer graded. The Coffee Board of Kenya only acts as an agent, responsible for collecting coffee samples and distributing them to buyers so that they can judge price and quality. The Nairobi auction is held for private exporters, and the price paid to growers by the Coffee Board of Kenya is below market price. The highest grade of coffee is Peaberry (PB), followed by AA++, AA+, AA, AB, and so on. Premium coffee is bright in color, delicious in flavor, and slightly winey. Organizing auctions is also intended to meet the needs of blenders. Such auctions usually involve smaller individual lot sizes (3 to 6 tons per lot), and are accompanied by samples marked with grower information for buyers to taste. After the auction ends, exporters package according to different flavors, different qualities, and the quantities required by blenders, which provides blenders with great flexibility. Quality-focused Germans and Nordics have long been long-term buyers of Kenyan coffee.

The above content is compiled by CoffeeHunters, a coffee news website.

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