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Gesha Coffee Bean Guide: How It Differs From Geisha

May 5, 2016
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What Makes a Gesha Coffee Bean Different From Geisha?

Gesha and Geisha refer to the same variety, and the split in naming comes from translation rather than from two separate plants. The variety was found in an Ethiopian forest in 1931, stayed obscure for decades, and won the BOP competition in 2004 through Panama's Hacienda La Esmeralda. Gesha names the southwestern Ethiopian region and the coffee grown there.

The name Geisha spread because the English spelling matches the word for a Japanese entertainer, and early translators rendered it literally. In 2006, Coffee Review's Mr. Yuan introduced Panama's version to mainland China as Gesha. Grades such as Red Label from Hacienda La Esmeralda and Gold Label from Gesha Village, along with version numbers like Gesha 8.0, further shape how the coffee is described and compared.

Geisha and Gesha, two names that ring loudly in the specialty coffee world, are often confused for one another. This article starts with the Gesha coffee beans from the Sidamo region of Ethiopia, traces the rise of Geisha from the Ethiopian forests to Panama's Hacienda La Esmeralda, explains the naming logic behind grading systems such as Red Label and Gold Label, and analyzes the origin of version numbers like Gesha 8.0. At the same time, Front Street will guide you through dimensions such as aroma, flavor, and mouthfeel to clarify the essential differences between "Gesha flavor" and "Geisha flavor," so you will no longer be confused when ordering.

A Comprehensive Analysis of Ethiopia Sidamo Huakui Coffee Beans: Flavor Differences from Geisha Varieties and the Grading System

(The left side shows Sidamo · Gesha coffee, and the right side is Panama · Geisha coffee)

Front Street recalls that during the years when Gesha was at its hottest, a saying circulated online: Gesha is top-tier Geisha! Nowadays, information about Gesha is already transparent, so everyone can naturally see through the truth or falsehood of this statement at a glance, but at the time, many people really were led astray. The source of this rumor is actually inseparable from Geisha's other Chinese name—"Geisha."

"Geisha," another name for Geisha in China

In 1931, Geisha was discovered in a forest in Ethiopia, but at the time it did not cause any stir. It was not until 73 years later, in 2004, that Panama's Hacienda La Esmeralda, using the Geisha variety introduced from Costa Rica, won the BOP competition championship in one fell swoop, and Geisha officially entered the public eye! After that, Geisha almost became an indispensable "championship weapon" for major estates and competitors in competitions.

Because Geisha is spelled the same as "geisha" in English, coffee professionals in Taiwan translated it literally as geisha. Later, people discovered that Geisha actually has two meanings in Ethiopia: one refers to a specific region in southwestern Ethiopia, and the other refers to the coffee variety produced in that region. Therefore, in 2006, when Mr. Yuan of Coffee Review first introduced Panama Geisha to mainland China, he named it "Gesha."

What are the representative top-tier Geisha coffees?

Many customers at Front Street, when chatting about Geisha, always mention the two "labels" on the blackboard: one is Hacienda La Esmeralda's Red Label Geisha, and the other is Gesha Village's Gold Label Geisha. Because the cost of green beans is relatively high, Front Street specially lists them separately and marks the pour-over prices, which are "75/cup" and "60/cup," respectively. This has also attracted the attention of many friends, especially enthusiasts who have long heard of Geisha's fame but have not yet had the chance to savor it carefully.

These labeled Geishas that baristas mention are named to highlight their high grade. Whether it is the Red Label and Gold Label mentioned earlier, or the Green Label and Blue Label ranked below them, even if we cannot tell which is higher or lower from the prefix, we can certainly understand: this Geisha from a certain estate with a certain label should be of a higher grade than ordinary Geisha, and of course, it may also be more expensive. In fact, this kind of "label" naming only exists in the Chinese-language context. In other words, if we switch back to their original English names, you may not be able to tell who is who, or who is more premium than whom.

Hacienda La Esmeralda's Red Label Geisha is originally named "Esmeralda Special," translated into Chinese as "Emerald Special," and is the highest-quality Geisha coffee bean produced by the estate. It not only requires a cupping score of 91 or above, but each lot also comes with detailed "birth information." The "red" in Red Label is taken from the background color of this product's trademark. Hacienda La Esmeralda's Green Label and Blue Label follow the same logic, with the aim of making it easier for domestic consumers to remember and distinguish them.

Similarly, Gesha Village's Gold Label Geisha also has its own English name, "Rarities," meaning "rare treasures." Simply put, it is the highest-grade Geisha released by Gesha Village (non-auction lots). The "gold" in Gold Label is also taken from the background color of the product's trademark. According to information on Gesha Village's official website, Geisha coffee of this grade accounts for only 10% of the estate's total production. Like Hacienda La Esmeralda's Red Label, each lot comes with plot information for buyers' reference.

This practice of replacing the original product name with the background color is widely circulated in China and indeed makes Geisha of different grades easier to remember and understand, but occasionally it also causes misunderstandings because of "color collisions." For example, in the Geisha production and sales systems established by these two estates, both have grades with red and green backgrounds, so there are two "Red Labels" and two "Green Labels" on the market. When ordering, remember to be more attentive, or simply ask the barista which estate this Geisha actually comes from.

A long-running popular favorite—"Gesha"

In 2017, the Buku Abel processing station in Hambela, a sub-region of Guji in Ethiopia, won the TOH championship with a naturally processed heirloom coffee bean! It has an intense strawberry flavor, high sweetness, and a smooth, creamy mouthfeel. This bean is Gesha!

A Comprehensive Analysis of Ethiopia Sidamo Huakui Coffee Beans: Flavor Differences from Geisha Varieties and the Grading System

After winning the championship, the green beans from that champion lot were imported by a green bean trader in Beijing. In the same year, at the World Brewers Cup, Li Jianfei, the runner-up of the China region, used this bean to defeat many Geisha competitors all the way and ultimately won runner-up.

As a result, this bean quickly gained extremely high exposure, and with its outstanding value for money, it conquered countless coffee lovers. Since then, every year we can see the new-season Gesha rushing onto the popularity charts with a brand-new numerical number!

What does Gesha 8.0 mean?

In our impression, the naming of coffee beans usually follows some traceable logic, and once determined, it is not easily changed. For example, Geisha is a variety, Blue Mountain is a origin, and Guting Guting is a processing station. But Gesha is particularly special. It is like Apple's iPhone, needing a new "version name" every year before it can go on the market. Why is that?

In fact, before this bean was called "Gesha," it had only one English name, "Hambella," translated as "Hambela." To put it plainly, what we call "Gesha coffee" is a traditional naturally processed G1 coffee bean from the Hambela region. The "Buku Abel" processing station is its more detailed traceability information, located in Dimtu town.

After "Gesha" became popular, in order to meet surging market demand, DW Company added up to 5 independent green coffee drying and processing stations in Hambella Wamena Wereda, all located within the core production area of Dimtu town. In addition to the original Buku Abel, four other small villages—Buku Saysay, Haro Soresa, Tirtiro Goye, and Seke Bokosa—also joined the production of naturally processed coffee beans. It is reported that at this point, DW Company's annual production of "Gesha" under its umbrella had already reached tens of millions of tons.

Starting from the 2018 production season, Gesha (naturally processed G1 coffee beans) from the same growing origin and the same processing station had already shown some changes in flavor. Through cupping at the time, Front Street found that although the 2018 and 2019 Geshas still had flavors similar to the 2017 Gesha, they were inferior to the "first-generation Gesha" in mouthfeel aspects such as body and aftertaste.

Therefore, in order to continue selling this naturally processed coffee from Hambela while distinguishing it from the original version, domestic green bean trading companies calculated forward from 2017 and created an X.0 suffix for each subsequent year's lot. For example, the 2018 lot was called "Gesha 2.0," the 2019 production was called "Gesha 3.0 and 3.1"... Last year's release was "Gesha 7.0," and so on. In this way, we can use this suffix to identify which year's lot the Gesha we bought actually belongs to.

So why do people think Gesha is top-tier Geisha?

At this point, I believe everyone already has some answer in mind. The reason lies in the name "Gesha"! Geisha's earliest name in China was "Geisha," and in Japanese culture a geisha is a title for a performing artist. At first, they were simply entertainers performing in entertainment venues, but people often made mistakes and confused them with another profession in those venues. Thus, in order to distinguish them from that other profession, the name "geisha" came into being. And the top performers among geisha would be given the title "Oiran"!

A Comprehensive Analysis of Ethiopia Sidamo Huakui Coffee Beans: Flavor Differences from Geisha Varieties and the Grading System

The reason this naturally processed heirloom variety was named Gesha was to imply that it could defeat Geisha and become the top existence among beans! However, through online transmission, this statement changed from "Gesha wants to defeat Geisha and become top-tier" into "Gesha is a top-tier Geisha coffee bean," which is truly both amusing and exasperating. To avoid making jokes again in the future, Front Street believes it is necessary for us to first understand what "Gesha flavor" and "Geisha flavor" are, as well as the differences between them.

"Gesha flavor" and "Geisha flavor"

If we look only at the literal meaning of Gesha, we might think it is a coffee "overflowing with floral fragrance." In fact, that is not the case. Gesha's floral notes are not especially intense; instead, its fruit aromas are particularly prominent, such as creamy strawberry, mango, jackfruit, citrus, blueberry, and so on. It possesses the ripe tropical fruit flavor unique to Sidamo natural beans, often leaving a deep impression, and what won "Gesha" first place in that year's TOH green bean competition was precisely this rich berry aroma.

Front Street's new-season Gesha 8.0 shows a more intense fruit profile in dry aroma than 7.0, with dense aromas such as guava, jackfruit, apricot, dried fruit, citrus, and pink floral notes. On the palate, one can feel the interwoven sweetness and acidity of multiple fruits such as dried mango, jackfruit, orange, and passion fruit, with a clear juicy quality and a round mouthfeel. As the temperature drops slightly, the fresh sweetness of white peach and the bright acidity of berries begin to emerge, and after swallowing, one can feel a sweet aftertaste like drinking black tea, with very rich layers.

The reason Geisha has won the affection of countless coffee people is that, unlike the strong black coffee in traditional impressions, it is more like a fresh cup of floral and fruity tea. With rich fragrance and complex fruit flavors, it reminds people of a series of unusual aromas. At different temperatures, one can feel a delicate texture and sweet-and-sour fruitiness filling the entire mouth. Geisha's extraordinary flavor characteristics are enough to make it the "ceiling" in the words of many coffee people.

Nowadays, besides Panama, we can also drink Geisha coffee from many coffee shops from countries such as Costa Rica, Ethiopia, Colombia, and Guatemala, each with its own unique flavor profile. If you are tasting Geisha coffee for the first time, Front Street suggests starting with the Panama region, where Geisha became famous. Coffee estates in Panama have richer cultivation experience with the Geisha variety, and their distinctive Geisha flavors are more representative.

The above content is compiled by CoffeeHunters, a coffee news website.

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