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Golden Mandheling Coffee: PWN Grades and Brewing Guide

December 10, 2015
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What Sets Golden Mandheling Coffee Apart?

Golden Mandheling coffee is the trademarked PWN brand from the Sumatra region of Indonesia, produced using the wet-hulled method that gives Mandheling its herbal spice aroma and hefty mouthfeel. PWN green beans are marked Triple Pick and Grade 1, the top tier of Indonesian green coffee, and go through repeated manual sorting that lowers the defect rate.

Two things identify an authentic lot: the burlap sack printed with the PWN logo and a certificate of origin signed by the company. For brewing a medium-dark roasted Golden Mandheling at home, use water around 85 to 88°C with a medium-coarse grind, and a Kono dripper with a segmented pour keeps the cup rich while staying clean.

Mandheling is the representative coffee of Indonesia, and the Golden Mandheling produced by PWN is the finest among them. This article starts from Front Street's daily bean list, introduces the brand background and grade standards of PWN Golden Mandheling, analyzes the grading system for Indonesian green coffee beans, and takes a deep dive into the terroir logic of the Sumatra producing region and the wet-hulled processing method. At the same time, Front Street will share the flavor characteristics and brewing parameters of medium-dark roasted Golden Mandheling, including water temperature, grind size, and the Kono dripper segmented extraction plan, to help coffee lovers recreate a cup of rich, clean classic Mandheling at home.

Indonesian Golden Mandheling Coffee Beans: PWN Brand Grades, Wet-Hulled Processing, and Medium-Dark Roast Brewing Fully Explained

PWN green bean company has an exclusive brand under its name, which is crowned with the name "Golden" before Mandheling and has long become an iconic presence in Indonesian specialty coffee. In this article, Front Street will guide everyone to understand exactly what makes Front Street PWN Golden Mandheling coffee so distinctive.

Authentic Golden Mandheling Coffee

Front Street's daily bean list always carries two Indonesian Mandhelings for selection, and the most popular among them is undoubtedly the "Front Street PWN Golden Mandheling Coffee," which has undergone repeated manual sorting. It not only retains Mandheling's signature herbal spice aroma and hefty mouthfeel, but also, because the defect rate has dropped significantly, reduces the off-flavors commonly found in ordinary Indonesian beans, giving cleanliness a clear upgrade.

"Golden Mandheling" is the exclusive brand of Pwani Coffee Company (PWN). There are all kinds of Mandheling products on the market, but PWN has registered "Golden Mandheling" as its company trademark, so in the true sense, only what PWN produces meets the standard for Golden Mandheling. To identify authentic Golden Mandheling, you can look at two things: the green bean burlap sack printed with the PWN logo, and the certificate of origin signed by PWN. Front Street displays both of these identifiers in its Dongshankou store for easy comparison.

Looking at the burlap sack of Golden Mandheling green beans, it is printed with the words "Triple pick" and "GRADE 1," indicating that it belongs to the highest grade of Indonesian green beans. After purchasing G1-grade green beans, PWN additionally carried out three rounds of manual picking.

The grading of Indonesian green coffee beans is mainly based on the number of defective beans, with screen size as a secondary reference. The basic quality requirements include: no live insects, no moldy or rotten-smelling beans, a maximum moisture content of 12.5%, and an impurity rate below 0.5%. Based on defect rate, there are six grades in total, and the highest grade, G1, requires fewer than 11 total defective beans in a 300-gram sample. The Lindong Mandheling in Front Street's daily drinking bean series is G1, produced in the Lindong region of Sumatra Island, processed using the wet-hulled method, and presenting the classic flavors of Indonesian Mandheling: dark chocolate, nuts, herbal spices, and caramel.

PWN has pushed the sorting stage to the extreme. They further subject G1-grade Mandheling to multiple strict selections, pressing the defect rate to the lowest possible level, removing off-flavors such as earthiness, and at the same time enhancing Mandheling's sweetness and cleanliness. In addition, before packaging, PWN also uses machines to sort the green beans by density and color, ensuring that the Golden Mandheling it produces has large, uniform beans and a translucent appearance.

Mandheling is also called Sumatra coffee

Like all kinds of fruits and vegetables, coffee is also a crop, and its flavor is always closely tied to factors such as variety, climate, altitude, soil, and management. It is the most authentic expression of variety and local terroir. What post-processing methods and roasting should do is preserve, restore, and present their true flavors as much as possible. Mandheling's unique flavor is inseparable from the mysterious island of Sumatra.

Indonesian Golden Mandheling Coffee Beans: PWN Brand Grades, Wet-Hulled Processing, and Medium-Dark Roast Brewing Fully Explained

Sumatra is divided into eight provinces in total, and among them only the high-altitude provinces of Aceh and North Sumatra cultivate Arabica coffee on a large scale. Sumatra has a tropical rainforest climate, with clouds and rain lingering among the mountains and forests all year round, casting a veil of mystery over the island. Local people plant coffee trees around two major volcanic lakes—Lake Tawar and Lake Toba. The Gayo Mountains around Lake Tawar possess ideal conditions for coffee growing and widely adopt organic cultivation. Combined with a long history of cultivation, the coffee produced here is higher in both quality and yield, so many green bean merchants place special importance on this area, including the locally renowned Pwani Coffee Company (PWN).

Semi-washed method—wet-hulled method

Friends who often drink Mandheling are certainly familiar with the wet-hulled method. The processing time for the wet-hulled method is much shorter than for washed coffee. Traditional washed processing requires 1 to 3 weeks, while the wet-hulled method can complete the entire process in just a few days. Wet-hulled processing first removes the skin and pulp of the coffee fruit, then after a short fermentation it is dried, and in a semi-dry state the parchment layer is removed, after which drying continues in the later stage. When the moisture content reaches 12%, it can be bagged, sorted, and graded.

The seemingly fast and time-saving wet-hulled process, if not strictly controlled, is highly prone to moisture and mold in Indonesia's hot and humid environment. In addition to Sumatra Island, Sulawesi in Indonesia and Papua New Guinea also widely adopt this method. This is because Indonesia has a tropical rainforest climate, with air humidity as high as 70–90%, making it impossible to dry green beans through long periods of sun exposure, while the cost of washed processing is relatively high, so coffee farmers could only develop this semi-washed processing method. Although the time required for each step is greatly shortened, the green beans after removal of the parchment layer still absorb moisture from the hot and humid air, so the resulting Mandheling coffee carries more of a dull, heavy aroma of wood, herbs, and spices.

In order to present the classic Mandheling flavor, Front Street uses a medium-dark roast to erase Mandheling's excessive acidity and enhance its body and balance. During cupping, Front Street sensed that Golden Mandheling carries the aromas of spices, herbal plants, and pine wood, the rich, mellow bitterness and sweetness of caramel, nuts, and pure dark chocolate, as well as a clear, sweet finish like fruit and melon. It is layered and changeable, rich and clean, with a high sense of balance.

Indonesian Golden Mandheling Coffee Beans: PWN Brand Grades, Wet-Hulled Processing, and Medium-Dark Roast Brewing Fully Explained

Flavor characteristics of medium-dark roasted Golden Mandheling coffee

The flavor descriptions for every Front Street coffee are based on freshly roasted beans. If coffee beans are stored for more than a month, a portion of the aroma has likely already been lost, making it difficult to reproduce in brewing. Front Street deeply understands the importance of freshness, so it only ships coffee beans freshly roasted within 5 days, allowing everyone to enjoy the fullest flavor window upon receipt.

When brewing medium-dark roasted coffee beans, Front Street uses brewing parameters different from those for light roasts, so that the coffee presents a richer chocolate character. Medium-dark roasting undergoes more caramelization than light roasting and more easily releases bitter, large-molecule substances. To avoid extracting too many off-flavors, Front Street appropriately lowers the water temperature—the brewing water temperature for light roasting is 91–93°C, while for medium-dark roasting Front Street recommends 87–88°C.

The grind size is also adjusted coarser, paired with segmented extraction using the Kono dripper. The Kono dripper has few ribs and they are located at the lower end. The filter paper hugs the dripper closely, which can restrict airflow, lengthen the contact time between water and coffee grounds, allow the coffee grounds to be fully extracted, and enhance the rich mouthfeel.

Dripper: Kono dripper Water temperature: 88°C Dose: 15 grams Coffee-to-water ratio: 1:15 Grind size: 70-75% pass rate on a No. 20 standard sieve

Indonesian Golden Mandheling Coffee Beans: PWN Brand Grades, Wet-Hulled Processing, and Medium-Dark Roast Brewing Fully Explained

Front Street uses segmented extraction: bloom with 30 grams of water for 30 seconds, then pour in a small stream in circles until 125 grams, at which point segmentation is carried out. When the water level drops and is about to expose the coffee bed, continue pouring until 225 grams and stop. When the water level drops and is about to expose the coffee bed, remove the dripper. (Timing starts at the beginning of blooming.) The extraction time is 2'00".

Professional coffee knowledge exchange For more coffee bean information, please follow Coffee Workshop (WeChat public account: cafe_style)

For more specialty coffee beans, please add the private WeChat of Front Street Coffee, WeChat ID: qjcoffeex

The above content is compiled by CoffeeHunters, a coffee news website.

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