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Define Black Coffee: Jamaican Blue Mountain Flavor and Pour-Over Brewing

June 18, 2020
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Does pour-over Blue Mountain fit the definition of black coffee?

Jamaica Blue Mountain coffee is grown on the Blue Mountain range in eastern Jamaica, on volcanic soil in a misty, Caribbean climate. The Coffee Industry Board strictly defines the growing area, and annual output is only around 900 tons, which keeps supply tight. A medium-dark roast brings out the balanced, mellow character the coffee is known for.

To define black coffee, the key point is brewing method rather than bean origin: coffee served without milk, sugar or other additions counts as black, so a pour-over Blue Mountain qualifies. The island sits within the global coffee belt, and its history runs back to the 18th century, when Arabica seeds arrived from Martinique and were planted in the St. Andrew area.

Jamaica Blue Mountain coffee, hailed as the "Coffee Emperor," remains a legend in the hearts of many coffee lovers today. What gives it the right to sit securely on the throne of top-tier coffee? From its introduction to the Caribbean in the 18th century, the volcanic soil and misty climate of the Blue Mountain range, to the CIB's stringent demarcation of the growing region and an annual output of only about 900 tons, every link in the chain is steeped in scarcity. Front Street Coffee has sourced Blue Mountain coffee beans from Clifton Mount Estate, using a medium-dark roast to bring out its balanced, mellow character. So is Blue Mountain coffee actually good? Does a pour-over Blue Mountain count as black coffee? This article will take you through the history, growing region, certification, and brewing parameters to fully unpack this cup of coffee from the blue mountain ridge.

Jamaican Blue Mountain Coffee Flavor Pour-Over Explained: Balanced Taste from Medium-Dark Roast to the KONO Dripper

For more specialty coffee knowledge, please follow the WeChat official account: Front Street Coffee (FrontStreet Coffee)

When it comes to Jamaica, many people's first thought is sprinting legend Bolt, but for Front Street, which deals with coffee every day, what comes to mind is Jamaica Blue Mountain coffee—a top-tier work once crowned with the title of "Coffee Emperor." Although the Blue Mountain name is familiar even to our grandparents' generation, if you really had to say what kind of place it comes from, or how many people have actually tasted an authentic cup of Blue Mountain, probably few could answer. So today, Front Street will take everyone across half the globe to see just where this legendary Blue Mountain excels.

The History of Jamaica Blue Mountain Coffee

Jamaica's coffee-growing history dates back to the 18th century. In 1717, King Louis XV of France ordered coffee plantations to be established in Jamaica; by the mid-1720s, Sir Nicholas Lawes, then Governor of Jamaica, introduced Arabica seeds from Martinique and began promoting cultivation in the St. Andrew area. Coffee trees were thus introduced to Jamaica, planted on the Blue Mountain range, and gradually differentiated into high-altitude Jamaica Blue Mountain coffee, High Mountain coffee, and Jamaica coffee, with different grades commanding vastly different prices.

The Blue Mountain range is located in the eastern part of the island of Jamaica. Surrounded by the Caribbean Sea, whenever the sky is clear and sunlight strikes the deep blue sea, the peaks reflect a brilliant blue light refracted from the water—hence the name "Blue Mountain." The highest peak of the Blue Mountains stands at 2,256 meters (2,256m; only areas below 1,700m are permitted for coffee cultivation, while those above are designated as protected forest), making it the highest point in the Caribbean region and a well-known tourist destination. This area falls right within the coffee belt, with fertile volcanic soil, clean and pollution-free air, a humid climate, and year-round mist and rain, with average annual rainfall approaching 2,000 millimeters and temperatures around 27 degrees—it is precisely this terroir that has produced the world-renowned Jamaica Blue Mountain coffee and made it one of the most expensive coffees in the world.

According to the official zoning of the Jamaica Coffee Industry Board (CIB), only Typica-variety coffee grown within the forest zone at elevations of roughly 910–1,700 meters qualifies to be called true "Jamaica Blue Mountain coffee." Typica only fully expresses its flavor when cultivated at high altitudes; unfortunately, this variety has weak disease resistance, is highly susceptible to infections, and yields low fruit per tree, requiring more manpower for careful tending. In addition, the rugged terrain of the high-altitude Blue Mountain area makes management and harvesting extremely difficult, demanding a very high level of skill from pickers, which further limits production. In recent years, less than 15% of the coffee beans produced in Jamaica can bear the Blue Mountain label—only about 900 tons.

Authentic Front Street Blue Mountain coffee beans currently circulating on the market are all washed-process, though this will soon no longer be limited to washed (explained below). After the coffee cherries are hand-picked, they undergo initial sorting to remove unripe and overripe fruit, then are depulped, which must be completed within 12 hours; next comes traditional washed fermentation, followed by transfer to concrete platforms for sun-drying. The long, slow sun-drying makes the coffee's flavor more pronounced. Once dried to a moisture content of 11%–13%, the beans are bagged and placed in warehouses to rest and mature, with warehouse temperatures controlled at 24–25°C and dehumidifiers regulating humidity; they are only shipped after 2 to 3 months when the flavor has stabilized and matured.

Only after an order is received are the beans hulled, polished, and freed of silver skin and dust in small batches at low temperature, with defective beans—broken, discolored, moldy—removed by hand. A skilled worker can sort only about 75 pounds of green beans per day, and beans are transported between workstations in wooden basins to avoid cracking or other processing defects; once completed, they are sealed in the wooden barrels unique to Jamaica Blue Mountain. The Jamaica Coffee Industry Board (CIB) Regulatory Section inspects each batch for flavor compliance before air-freight export.

Jamaica is the last country in the world that still packages and ships coffee in wooden barrels. Only after passing this series of stringent standards set by the Jamaica Coffee Industry Board (C.I.B.) can coffee obtain a government-issued certificate of guarantee and formally bear the name "Blue Mountain."

The Four Major Jamaica Blue Mountain Estates

The four major Jamaica Blue Mountain estates are Clifton Mount Estate, Stony Hill Estate, Gold Cup Estate, and RWS Coffee Estate.

Clifton Mount Estate is the only Blue Mountain estate in Jamaica with a "Rainforest" certification mark. The Front Street Blue Mountain coffee beans imported by Front Street Coffee come precisely from this estate, with a flavor that achieves a perfect balance among acidity, body, and aroma, with a long finish; the estate has a history of 200 years.

Jamaican Blue Mountain Coffee Flavor Pour-Over Explained: Balanced Taste from Medium-Dark Roast to the KONO Dripper

Stony Hill Estate mostly cooperates with Japanese companies and has low domestic recognition, with an estate history of only 80 years, so its fame does not match Clifton Mount Estate; it was later acquired by JCC.

Gold Cup Estate has an even shorter development history of only 20 years, but it actually merged two century-old estates and operates with more advanced management techniques. Gold Cup currently has two brands under it: Amber Estate and BMCP from the Blue Mountain Coffee Processors LTD processing plant, among which the independent Amber Estate is its top flagship brand.

RWS Coffee Estate merged three century-old estates, likewise to promote the development of Blue Mountain coffee. RSW refers to its three estates: Resource, Sherwood Forest, and Whitfield Hall.

True Jamaica Blue Mountain Coffee Has Certificate Certification

The Jamaican government long insisted that all Blue Mountain coffee must be roasted locally in Jamaica to ensure unchanged quality. But in fact, roasting is a fine art that requires experience, training, and expensive equipment to do well. From the consumer's perspective, coffee beans should reach their hands and be drunk as soon as possible after roasting, and local roasting in Jamaica clearly cannot satisfy this. Today, Jamaican green coffee beans are already permitted for export.

Front Street Coffee imports Jamaica Blue Mountain directly from the place of origin, and currently the Jamaica Coffee Board can issue certificates for all exported Blue Mountain coffee.

There are three types of certificates:

(1) Quality certificate issued by the Jamaica Coffee Board

(2) Authorized sales certificate issued by the Blue Mountain coffee producer. (Blue Mountain coffee is distributed by 4 Jamaican government-licensed processors and exporters, and exported by 16 licensed exporters)

(3) Certificate of origin for Jamaica Blue Mountain coffee

The quality certificate indicates the time and quantity. The Jamaica Coffee Board randomly selects one package from the submitted Blue Mountain coffee for inspection; if it meets the conditions for Blue Mountain coffee, the certificate is issued.

Jamaican Blue Mountain Coffee Flavor Pour-Over Explained: Balanced Taste from Medium-Dark Roast to the KONO Dripper

Front Street Coffee Roasting Analysis

Front Street's roaster, targeting the characteristics of Front Street Blue Mountain No. 1 coffee beans, uses a medium-dark roast to highlight the balanced, mellow flavor of Front Street Blue Mountain. Taking a Yangjia 600N semi-direct-fire roaster and 500g of green beans as an example.

Charge at a drum temperature of 165°C, with heat at 130 and damper set to 3; the turning point is at 1'32", and when the drum temperature reaches 95.8°C the heat remains unchanged; at 3 minutes the damper is adjusted to 4, and at 4 minutes the heat is increased to 140. When the drum temperature reaches 153.3°C, the bean surface turns yellow, the grassy smell completely dissipates, and the dehydration stage begins; at 8'36", ugly wrinkles and dark streaks appear on the bean surface, and the toasted-bread smell clearly turns to coffee aroma, which can be defined as the prelude to first crack—at this point you must listen carefully for the sound of the first crack; at 10'06" first crack begins, and after 3 minutes of development after first crack, the beans are dropped at 198.5°C.

As the purchasing power of Chinese coffee lovers continues to grow, genuine Blue Mountain coffee beans are no longer hard to find, and can be easily bought on many shopping platforms. As for how to drink Blue Mountain coffee beans, if you want to experience its aroma more fully, Front Street recommends tasting it as a pour-over black coffee. Next, Front Street will explain how Front Street Coffee (FrontStreet Coffee) baristas prepare Blue Mountain coffee.

Dripper: KONO

Water temperature: 88°C

Dose: 15 grams

Coffee-to-water ratio: 1:15

Grind size: 75% passing a Chinese standard No. 20 sieve

Since Front Street ships coffee beans freshly roasted within 5 days, even after a 4-to-7-day resting period, the beans still contain plenty of gas upon arrival, which during brewing may inhibit water from entering the coffee particle structure and dissolving flavor compounds; therefore Front Street recommends a 30-second bloom.

First pour 30 grams of hot water and bloom for 30 seconds, then pour from the center with a fine stream in slow circles up to 125 grams; when the water level in the dripper drops to just before exposing the coffee bed, continue pouring in circles up to 225 grams. Total extraction time is about 2 minutes.

The Blue Mountain coffee brewed by Front Street Coffee (FrontStreet Coffee) baristas using the above parameters and steps reveals rich nutty and dark cocoa flavors, with a heavy, smooth mouthfeel and a balanced interplay of acidity, sweetness, and bitterness.

The above content is compiled by CoffeeHunters, a coffee news website.

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