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Geisha Coffee Beans Explained: Panama Hacienda La Esmeralda Grades and Red, Green, and Blue Labels

May 28, 2021
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What Do Red, Green, and Blue Label Geisha Coffee Beans Mean?

Panama's Hacienda La Esmeralda divides its geisha coffee beans into Red Label, Green Label, and Blue Label, with each grade set by growing altitude, cupping score, processing method, and flavor. The higher tiers come from higher plots, and the cup shows the citrus and floral aromas that made the variety famous.

The tree's original home is southwestern Ethiopia; Don Pachi Serracin brought the variety from Costa Rica to Panama in 1963, where low yields kept farmers uninterested and the trees were long used as windbreaks. Daniel Peterson noticed the fruit from the highest trees carried African-style aromatics, processed it separately, and entered the 2004 national competition, after which geisha beans won the title for years running.

When it comes to Geisha coffee, the name Panama La Esmeralda Estate is undoubtedly one that cannot be avoided. This legendary estate divides Geisha coffee beans into three grades: Red Label, Green Label, and Blue Label, each with clear differences in growing altitude, cupping score, processing method, and flavor performance. This article will take you through the legendary story of Geisha coffee from Ethiopia to Panama, analyze La Esmeralda's unique grading system, and compare in detail the flavor characteristics and purchasing suggestions of Red Label, Green Label, and Blue Label Geisha, helping coffee lovers gain a clearer understanding of this treasure among specialty coffees.

When Geisha coffee is mentioned, Panama La Esmeralda Estate is inevitably the first name that comes to mind.

However, what Front Street Coffee is discussing today is not the Geisha from Gesha Village, but the Geisha produced by Panama La Esmeralda Estate. This estate subdivides Geisha into three grades: Red Label, Green Label, and Blue Label, each presenting different flavor characteristics. There is also a rather legendary story behind Geisha coffee beans.

The original home of the Geisha coffee tree can be traced back to southwestern Ethiopia in Africa. In 1963, Don Pachi Serracin introduced the Geisha variety from Costa Rica to Panama. Because yields were low at the time and farmers' returns were limited, enthusiasm for planting was not high, and these Geisha trees were long used as windbreaks.

The turning point came at Panama La Esmeralda. The estate owner, Daniel Peterson,偶然 discovered that the coffee beans produced by the Geisha trees located at the highest point of his estate, originally used as a windbreak, actually carried the citrus and floral aromas unique to African beans. So he decided to process this batch of coffee beans separately and send them to the 2004 Panama coffee bean cupping competition, where they became famous overnight. Since then, Geisha beans have advanced irresistibly, winning the Panama coffee cupping competition championship for many consecutive years. In the minds of specialty coffee lovers around the world today, the status of Geisha coffee beans is almost unshakable.

Panama Coffee

Panama's coffee industry benefits from exceptional climatic conditions. This country borders Costa Rica and Colombia, and its east-west topography causes cold air currents to pass through the central mountain range and converge in areas above 6,500 meters, creating a unique microclimate around Boquete and Piedra de Candela, with temperatures and rainfall suitable for plant growth. This microclimate area is the core producing region of Panamanian coffee. In addition to climatic factors, the surrounding soil in this region is fertile and nutrient-rich, providing an ideal cultivation environment for coffee planting and also giving rise to a large number of outstanding and distinctive coffees.

In addition to natural conditions, there is another important driving force behind Panama coffee's global attention. FrontStreet Coffee believes that the development of Panama's coffee industry can be said to have been born with a silver spoon. At the end of the 20th century, the United States assisted Panama in building the canal and at one time independently controlled the region for a period. At that time, a large number of American elites went south to Panama, both for work needs and in consideration of business opportunities. La Esmeralda Estate is precisely a product and witness of this era of elite migration.

La Esmeralda Estate

In 1964, American banker Rudolph Peterson retired and moved to Panama, buying La Esmeralda Estate in Boquete, initially focusing on dairy farming. Later, his son Price resigned from his position as a doctor to help his father manage the farm, introduced Caturra and Catuai coffee varieties in 1987, and built a wet mill in 1994, from then on having its own coffee processing facilities.

At present, La Esmeralda Estate mainly has three estates growing the Geisha variety: El Velo, Cañas Verdes, and Jaramillo. In 1996, the estate bought the nearby Jaramillo, which had a superior geographical environment and excellent flavor in its original coffee varieties. El Velo was acquired by La Esmeralda Estate in 2012. FrontStreet Coffee believes that La Esmeralda's continuous acquisition of estates with excellent output and higher altitudes was a highly forward-looking decision at the time, and it was precisely this strategy that allowed La Esmeralda Estate to firmly occupy an important position in the coffee industry.

Legend Immortal — Panama La Esmeralda Estate Geisha

In 2017, Panama La Esmeralda Estate Geisha once again won the championship in the natural group, approximately its 18th championship trophy. Being able to stand out year after year among many strong competitors depends not only on the excellent flavor genes of the Geisha bean itself, but also on good estate management and the harvesting and processing stages. It is particularly worth mentioning that the owner of La Esmeralda Estate attaches great importance to environmental protection, so its coffees are able to participate in the Rainforest Alliance cupping competition and have won the championship trophy five times.

Panama La Esmeralda Estate is both the discoverer of Geisha flavor and the promoter of Geisha coffee. From the Geisha categories it has launched, it is not difficult to see their emphasis on Geisha and strict control over quality. Speaking of La Esmeralda Estate's quality control capabilities, FrontStreet Coffee must mention its grading system. La Esmeralda Estate created a proprietary grading system, dividing Geisha coffee beans into three grades: Red Label, Green Label, and Blue Label.

FrontStreet Coffee's bean list includes these three different grades of Geisha coffee beans from La Esmeralda Estate, though FrontStreet Coffee seldom proactively recommends Geisha coffee beans unless customers explicitly request them. FrontStreet Coffee does this not because it thinks La Esmeralda's Geisha is not good enough. On the contrary, precisely because La Esmeralda's Geisha quality ranks among the very best Geisha in the world, FrontStreet takes into consideration that not all customers have enough understanding of Geisha flavor; among the customers who come to FrontStreet, some are even drinking pour-over coffee for the first time. If one starts with the very best category from the beginning, then other coffees will basically seem unremarkable. FrontStreet Coffee recommends tasting progressively, so that one can gradually form an understanding of coffee flavors and slowly discover the richness and diversity of the coffee world.

Front Street Teaches You to Distinguish La Esmeralda: Red Label, Green Label, Blue Label!

After years of experimentation, La Esmeralda Estate found that only Geisha beans harvested from coffee trees growing above 1,400 meters in altitude can display the special flavor that Geisha beans should have. Therefore, the grading is mainly based on planting altitude, supplemented by actual cupping results, dividing Geisha beans into Red, Green, and Blue Label grades.

Top Grade — Red Label [Auction Lot]

Growing altitude: 1,600-1,800 meters

Cupping score: above 90 points

Mainly produced from Jaramillo and Canas Verdes estates, and also the highest-quality Geisha beans

Geisha beans harvested from the highest areas of the Boquete mountains, possessing special, bright floral and citrus aromas

Coffee of this grade is later processed into natural or washed green beans

Can only be purchased through the annual global auction

Geisha of this grade uses natural or washed processing methods, with flavors of special, bright floral and citrus aromas.

Second Best — Green Label [Private Collection Lot]

Growing altitude 1,600-1,800 meters

Micro-lot blends from three different estates: Jaramillo, Quiel, and Cañas Verdes

Although not the highest-grade auction beans, Geisha beans of this grade still carry the classic flavors of Geisha coffee beans: floral aroma, fruity aroma, citrusy bright acidity, and a full, juicy body

Selecting the most suitable fully ripe coffee cherries creates a sweet, bright fruity acidity, and delicious flavor

Geisha beans of this grade are likewise available as washed or natural green beans

Ordinary — Blue Label [Selected Lot]

Growing altitude 1,500 meters

A blend from three different estates: Jaramillo, Canas Verdes, and El Velo

Slight floral aroma, fruity acidity, sweetness, with a less full body

Geisha beans of this grade are only available as washed green beans

Blue Label Geisha is likewise available in washed or natural processing.

Flavor Description [Red Label] Bright rose and citrus aromas, genmai, berries, apricot,复合 fruit, honey, with a full juicy body, rich flavor layers, and obvious sweetness. [Green Label] Intense jasmine floral aroma, high sweetness, citrus, berries, juicy body, cream, green tea, orange peel, cantaloupe, with overall rich flavor layers and a lingering floral and citrus finish. [Blue Label] Floral aroma, with soft lemon and grapefruit acidity on the palate, honey sweetness in the middle, and oolong tea tea-like notes and brown sugar sweetness in the finish, with a relatively clean, bright mouthfeel.

People often ask what the difference is between Red Label and Green Label. FrontStreet Coffee gives the most easily understood answer: Red Label can be traced back to which specific small plot, while Green Label is a blend and cannot be traced. Because it uses a blending model without detailed plot notation, sometimes the flavor similarity between Green Label and Red Label is very high, but the next production may differ again. FrontStreet Coffee feels that drinking Green Label is like buying a lottery ticket; perhaps the batch you drink this time tastes like Red Label.

Although Green Label is not as high-grade as Red Label, it still carries the classic flavors of Geisha: floral aroma, fruity aroma, citrusy bright acidity, and a full, juicy body. Green Label Geisha is likewise available in washed or natural processing.

The specific flavor of coffee you want to drink still depends on your own preferences. Of course, if possible, trying them all is also perfectly fine.

The above content is compiled by CoffeeHunters, a coffee news website.

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