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Kenya Coffee Acidity: Terroir, Varieties, Grades, and Brewing

July 16, 2019
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Why is Kenya coffee acidity so bright and how should it be brewed?

Kenyan coffee is known for bright, full-bodied acidity with notes of cherry tomato, berries, and smoked plums, not plain sourness. Beans grow mostly at 1,500 to 2,100 meters, with two harvests each year. Pickers patrol the trees about seven times to take only ripe cherries. Smallholders send fruit to cooperative washing stations, which return dried parchment coffee to the cooperative.

Most Kenyan lots are processed as washed, and the dense hard beans can slow flow and clog brewers. Adjusting grind size, water temperature, coffee-to-water ratio, and pouring technique releases the sweet-and-sour layers. Despite Kenya's fame, estate stories are rare because smallholder and cooperative structures dominate. Beans may look oily after roasting, which is normal for darker profiles and does not necessarily indicate poor quality or staleness.

Kenyan coffee is famous in the specialty circle for its bright and full-bodied acidity, but its story goes far beyond sourness. This article systematically reviews the full picture of Kenyan coffee, from producing regions and variety characteristics to the grading system and flavor performance, and, in response to its hard beans and tendency to clog, provides Front Street Coffee’s complete brewing plan, including grind size, water temperature, coffee-to-water ratio, and pouring technique, to help coffee lovers fully release the sweet-and-sour layers reminiscent of cherry tomatoes and smoked plums.

Analysis of Kenyan Coffee Acidity: Complete Guide to Origin Terroir, Variety Grading, and Brewing Parameters

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Walk into any specialty coffee shop and flip through the bean list, and you can almost always find Kenyan coffee. At Front Street Coffee (FrontStreet Coffee), there is also an Azalia bean from Kenya, showing the typical Kenyan style: bright acidity with notes of cherry tomato and berries. With its rich and solid flavor, Kenyan beans hold an important place in the specialty coffee world. Not only are they familiar to ordinary drinkers, but there are also high-scoring lots in competitions that have cupped above 90 points. Interestingly, however, you almost never hear legendary stories about Kenyan estates in the coffee world—and the answer is: indeed there are none.

Producers and importers habitually package origin background and estate anecdotes and push them to consumers, trying to build a regional narrative at every step from seed to cup. The more expensive the beans, the more they need a story to support them; if consumers are willing to pay, suppliers are naturally happy to oblige. But coffee estates in Kenya are not as common as in Central and South America. This major coffee-producing country has instead become the “most familiar stranger” to everyone.

Kenyan coffee is mostly grown at altitudes of 1,500 to 2,100 meters, with two harvest periods each year. To ensure only ripe cherries are picked, people need to patrol repeatedly among the trees, about seven times back and forth. Kenyan coffee is grown by smallholders. After harvesting, the fresh cherries are first sent to cooperative washing stations for processing. The washing stations hand over the washed and dried coffee in the form of “parchment coffee” to the cooperative—this is the final form before hulling. All coffee is gathered together, and growers receive an average price based on actual quality. This trading method works well overall and is relatively fair to both growers and buyers.

Main Producing Regions of Kenya

NYERI

Nyeri is located in central Kenya and is home to the extinct volcano Mount Kenya. The red soil here is considered capable of producing Kenya’s highest-quality coffee. Agriculture is extremely important locally, and coffee is its main crop. Cooperative societies made up of smallholders are more common than large estates. This region has two harvests, but the main-season coffee is usually of better quality.

Altitude: 1,200–2,300 meters

Harvest period: October–December (main season), June–August (secondary region)

Varieties: SL-28, SL-34, Ruriu11, Batian.

MURANG’A

This region has about 100,000 coffee farmers. This inland producing area was the first settlement chosen by missionaries, because the Portuguese prohibited them from living in the coastal areas. Murang’a also benefits from volcanic soil, and the number of smallholder coffee farmers is greater than that of estates.

Altitude: 1,350–1,950 meters

Harvest period: October–December (main season), June–August (secondary season)

Varieties: SL-28, SL-34, Ruiru11, Batian

KIRINYAGA

Located east of the Nyeri producing region, it also benefits from volcanic soil. Coffee is usually produced by smallholders, and wet mills also produce quite a lot of high-quality coffee that is well worth trying.

Altitude: 1,300–1,900 meters

Harvest period: October–December (main season), June–August (secondary season)

Varieties: SL-28, SL-34, Ruiru11, Batian.

EMBU

Close to Mount Kenya, this region takes its name from Embu town. About 70% of the local population is engaged in small-scale farming, and the most popular cash crops are tea and coffee. Almost all coffee comes from smallholders, and production is relatively small.

Altitude: 1300

Analysis of Kenyan Coffee Acidity: Complete Guide to Origin Terroir, Variety Grading, and Brewing Parameters

MERU

Coffee in this region is mostly grown by smallholders on the slopes of Mount Kenya and in the Nyambene Hills area. The name refers to the magnetic field area and the Meru people living there. In the 1930s, they were the first Kenyans to begin producing coffee, which stemmed from the 1923 Devonshire White Paper, which guaranteed the importance of the rights and interests of Kenya’s African population.

Altitude: 1,300–1,950 meters

Harvest period: October–December (main season), June–August (secondary season)

Varieties: SL-28, SL-34, ruiru11, Batian, K7

KIAMBU

This producing region in central Kenya has the highest-altitude coffee-growing areas in the region. However, some high-altitude coffee trees suffer from dieback, which stops their growth. This producing region is named after Nakuru town. Coffee here is grown both on estates and by smallholders, but production is relatively small.

Altitude: 1,850–2,200 meters

Harvest period: October–December (main season), June–August (secondary season)

Varieties: SL-28, SL-34, Ruiru11, Batian

KISII

This region is located in southwestern Kenya, not far from Lake Victoria. It is a relatively small producing area, and most coffee beans come from cooperative societies made up of small producers.

Altitude: 1,450–1,800 meters

Harvest period: October–December (main season), June–August (secondary season)

Varieties: SL-28, SL-34, Blue Mountain, K7

TRANS-NZOIA, KEIYO & MARAKWET

This small producing region in western Kenya has begun to develop in recent years. Mount Elgon provides a certain altitude, and most coffee comes from estates. Coffee is usually planted to diversify farms that originally had only cornfields or dairy production.

Altitude: 1,500–1,900 meters

Harvest period: October–December (main season), June–August (secondary season)

Varieties: ruiru11, batian, SL-28, SL-34.

Kenyan Coffee Bean Varieties

Common varieties in Kenya include SL28, SL34, French Mission Bourbon, and Ruiru 11. Two of these especially attract the attention of specialty coffee professionals: SL-28 and SL-34. They came from a research program led by Guy Gibson at Scott Laboratories and are two of the 40 experimental varieties produced by that program, though these varieties are susceptible to leaf rust. The Bourbon variants (SL-28) and (SL-34) have long been frequent winners in expert cuppings and the Nairobi auction. Kenya’s berry aroma comes from these two beans—especially SL-28—which is the consensus among experts. Unfortunately, although the flavor is good, yield and disease resistance are not ideal.

Kenya has invested a great deal in breeding leaf-rust-resistant varieties. Ruiru11 was the first variety recognized as successful by the Kenya Coffee Board, even though specialty coffee buyers are lukewarm about it. In recent years, the Coffee Board has released another variety called Batian. Quality seems to have improved, and everyone is optimistic about its future cupping performance.

Analysis of Kenyan Coffee Acidity: Complete Guide to Origin Terroir, Variety Grading, and Brewing Parameters

Kenyan Coffee Bean Grading

Kenyan coffee beans are strictly graded, mainly according to bean size, shape, and hardness, from high to low as AA or AA+, AB, PB, C, E, TT, and T. This can serve as a reference when selecting, and coffee flavor is also used as a reference.

Coffee Size Grading

AA Plus (AA+) AA grade with particularly excellent cup quality (flavor, mouthfeel)

AA Screen Size 17–18

AB Screen Size 15–16, accounting for most of production

C Screen Size smaller than AB

TT Lightweight beans blown out from AA and AB grade beans by an airflow sorter

T Lightweight beans blown out from C grade beans by an airflow sorter

E Elephant Bean A large mutated bean formed by two beans fused together, also called elephant ear

UG Those that do not meet the above standards

PB Peaberry, classified by appearance, unrelated to flavor or weight

Kenyan Coffee Bean Flavor

The flavor characteristic of Kenyan beans—clean and beautiful acidity! The flavor’s strength comes from beautiful, rich acidity. If high-quality acidity is the soul of good coffee, then Kenyan beans are the best representative of that soul!

Kenya’s acidity is bright, vivid, and full-bodied, making it hard for anyone who has tried it to forget. The beautiful flavors of Kenyan beans cover almost 29 tastes on the “SCA Flavor Wheel.” Their acidity includes black currant, the smoked plum we are familiar with, lime, grapefruit or pineapple, green apple, passion fruit, and many berry flavors; sweetness includes honey, dark brown sugar, and sweet fresh orange juice.

The body of Kenyan coffee on the palate is unique in the world—because most coffees with bright acidity often do not simultaneously have a thick body or oily mouthfeel, but Kenyan beans do have a thick, oily feel or mouth-coating sensation. This is also why local quality controllers, when selecting top lots, evaluate them by acidity/body/flavor and select lots that can fetch high prices at auction.

Now that you understand the flavor information of Kenyan coffee beans, Front Street Coffee (FrontStreet Coffee) can take you through making a brewing plan based on the beans’ characteristics. Kenya’s high altitude, volcanic soil, good varieties, and precise processing create full, large beans with a relatively hard texture and good appearance. A common problem in brewing is clogged drainage.

Therefore, in terms of grinding, Front Street does not recommend too many fines. You can choose a higher-quality grinder, or use a sieve to sift out the fines. For coarseness, use a No. 20 standard sieve with a 75% pass rate as the standard.

Front Street Coffee (FrontStreet Coffee)’s recommendation for grind size is based mainly on standard sieves: 80% pass rate for medium-light roasts and 75% pass rate for medium-dark roasts. The reason is that each grinder’s installation, use, and maintenance condition is different. Even at the same setting, the grounds produced may be different. Therefore, using a standard sieve as the standard, or calibrating the grinder accordingly before determining the grind size, is more accurate.

For water temperature, this Kenyan coffee is suitable for brewing at a relatively high temperature, which can bring out the coffee’s clear fruity sweetness (cherry tomato). Front Street recommends using a water temperature of 93°C.

For the coffee-to-water ratio, Front Street recommends 1:16. Kenyan coffee itself has a solid mouthfeel, and even when brewed to a 16x coffee-to-water ratio it does not diminish at all. What is brewed at 1:16 has a very soft concentration, with bright smoked plum acidity paired with the sweet-and-sour aroma of cherry tomato—very comfortable.

Front Street uses a small V60 dripper. It is recommended to use at least 15 grams of coffee grounds. If using a large V60 dripper, it is recommended to use at least 25 grams of coffee grounds.

When pouring, you can raise the coffee bed and pour with fewer large circles, which can thin the thickness of the coffee bed and fully extract, avoiding channeling (at the edges) and clogging (at the bottom).

First, pour in 30 ml of water and bloom for 30 seconds. In the second stage, pour in 120 ml of water, pouring in circles from the center outward until the surface is entirely golden foam, then spiral inward to the center point, with the coffee bed height reaching 1/2 of the short rib. In the third stage, pour in 90 ml of water, pouring in circles about the size of a coin. After all the coffee liquid has dripped into the server, end the extraction. The time is 2 minutes (with a 10-second margin). This brewing method can highlight the cherry tomato aroma and sweetness of Kenyan coffee, while also ensuring a solid yet transparent smoked plum acidity.

The above content is compiled by CoffeeHunters, a coffee news website.

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