What Happened to the Esmeralda Blue Label Geisha?

Panama's Hacienda Esmeralda announced in 2021 that it was cancelling the Blue Label Geisha grade, a line that had given buyers a more accessible way to taste Esmeralda's classic Geisha flavor. The natural-process version of Blue Label had only been introduced in the 2020 crop, so its removal came as a surprise to many enthusiasts.

That same October, a Boquete Geisha sold as Las Rocas arrived at port and, after verification, was confirmed to come from Hacienda Esmeralda, filling the gap the Blue Label left behind. Esmeralda divides its Geisha plots into Jaramillo, Canas Verdes and El Velo, each with its own altitude, rainfall and temperature range, which is the base for its grading system.

In 2021, Panama's Hacienda Esmeralda suddenly announced the cancellation of the Blue Label Geisha grade, leaving many enthusiasts who wanted to taste Geisha flavors at an affordable price feeling regretful. However, in October of the same year, a Panama Boquete Geisha called Las Rocas quietly arrived at port. After extensive verification by Front Street Coffee, it was confirmed that it indeed came from Hacienda Esmeralda, filling the market gap left by the Blue Label. This article reviews Hacienda Esmeralda's plot divisions and Geisha grading system, explains in detail the washed and natural processing methods, and shares Front Street's medium-light roast profile and three-stage brewing method, giving you a comprehensive understanding of the unique charm of Blue Label Geisha and its inheritance relationship with Las Rocas.

In the 2020 new crop season, Hacienda Esmeralda introduced a natural process version of Blue Label Geisha for the first time. Front Street Coffee (FrontStreet Coffee), eager to explore, immediately imported a batch of natural Blue Label for horizontal comparison. Blue Label Geisha has always been regarded as a more accessible product line under Hacienda Esmeralda, allowing consumers to experience the classic flavors of Hacienda Esmeralda Geisha without paying a high price. However, in 2021, for unknown reasons, Hacienda Esmeralda directly cancelled the Blue Label grade. You should know that before 2020, only Red Label and Green Label offered natural process versions, and the Blue Label natural added in 2020 was undoubtedly an extra benefit for consumers.

Hacienda Esmeralda Plot Distribution

Hacienda Esmeralda's division of Geisha cultivation plots is quite detailed, mainly divided into three major areas: Jaramillo, Canas Verdes, and El Velo. Each major area is further subdivided into several smaller plots.

Jaramillo receives annual rainfall of about 4000ml, with average daytime temperatures of 19-25℃, average nighttime temperatures of 11-15℃, and an average altitude of 1600-1700 meters. This area is subdivided into 5 small plots: Mario, Noria, Reina, Bosque, and Buenos Aires.

Canas Verdes receives annual rainfall of about 3500ml, with average daytime temperatures of 16-23℃, average nighttime temperatures of 10-15℃, and an average altitude of 1600-1800 meters. This area contains 9 small plots: Lino, Coronado, Fundador, León, Montaa, Trapiche, Chinta, Cabaa, and Tumaco.

El Velo is the most recently purchased plot by Hacienda Esmeralda, with an average altitude of 1700-1900 meters. In addition to cultivating Geisha and Catuai, some exotic varieties have also been introduced here, such as Laurina, Pacamara, Mocha, and SL28. El Velo is divided into 7 small plots: Guabo, Portón, Durazno, Higo, Buena Vista, and guila.

Hacienda Esmeralda Geisha Grades

After years of experimentation, Hacienda Esmeralda discovered that only Geisha grown above 1400 meters in altitude can display its proper refined flavors. Therefore, the estate uses cultivation altitude as the main basis, combined with actual cupping results, to divide Geisha into three grades.

Esmeralda Special

Esmeralda Special, commonly known as "Red Label." Red Label Geisha is grown at altitudes of 1600-1800 meters, with cupping scores above 90 points, mainly from the Jaramillo and Canas Verdes production areas. Red Label batches offer both washed and natural processing methods, and can only be obtained through global auctions.

Private Collection

Private Collection, commonly known as "Green Label." Green Label batches do not participate in auctions, but their quality is still excellent. Its Geisha is grown at altitudes of 1600-1800 meters, usually blended from batches from different plots such as Jaramillo and Canas Verdes.

Due to the multi-plot blending model, Green Label sometimes presents flavors very similar to Red Label. Although its grade is not as high as Red Label, Green Label still retains the classic characteristics of Geisha: floral aroma, fruity notes, citrus-like acidity, and a thick, juicy mouthfeel. Green Label also offers washed or natural processing options.

Geisha1500

Geisha1500, commonly known as "Blue Label." Grown at altitudes of 1400-1500 meters, Blue Label blends Geisha coffee beans from three different plots: Jaramillo, Canas Verdes, and El Velo.

In the past, Blue Label Geisha was only available in washed process, but this year's Blue Label batches added a natural processing method. Front Street Coffee (FrontStreet Coffee) is introducing the new crop season's natural Blue Label Geisha.

Geisha Processing Methods

Hacienda Esmeralda's washed processing procedure is as follows: harvested cherries first pass through a depulper to separate most of the pulp, then the parchment beans are placed in clean water tanks for soaking and fermentation to thoroughly remove residual pulp layers. During this process, unripe beans and defective beans are screened out due to buoyancy differences. Subsequently, pulping is carried out, passing the coffee cherries through a machine to remove the skin, and the remaining mucilage-covered coffee beans are placed in fermentation tanks for 1 to 2 days to break down the mucilage attached to the bean surface.

Afterward, the coffee beans are washed clean with fresh water, and then the parchment green beans are dried until reaching a moisture content of 12%, after which they are stored in warehouses, and the parchment is removed at the time of export.

Hacienda Esmeralda's natural processing involves sending harvested coffee cherries directly to the courtyard for drying. The cherries gradually dry, and the coffee beans remain wrapped in the pulp, fully absorbing fruit and aromatic notes. The coffee cherries need to be evenly dried; depending on weather and site conditions, they are dried on concrete beds for 3 to 5 days (8 hours per day). After reaching sufficient dryness, they are transferred to a Guardiola dryer and rotated for 72 hours to complete drying and prevent fermentation. After drying is complete, the pulp and other parts are removed by machine.

Guardiola is the preferred drying method; as long as the coffee batch size allows, it can handle large quantities of coffee. The Guardiola is a horizontal rotating drum that allows warm air to flow around the beans, carrying away moisture. The dried coffee beans are packed into nylon bags and stored in the warehouse for 30 to 45 days. This step is called "eposo," which helps stabilize the coffee beans and enhance the cup profile. Front Street believes that this meticulous natural processing can stably control the degree of fermentation, thereby ensuring flavor consistency across each batch and guaranteeing coffee quality.

Front Street Coffee (FrontStreet Coffee) Roast Analysis

Blue Label Geisha adopts a medium-light roast, aimed at highlighting floral and fruity aromas and the unique pleasant acidity of Geisha.

Charged at 180℃, heat setting 130, damper opened to 3; turning point at 1'32", when temperature reaches 104℃ open damper to 4, heat remains unchanged; at 151.6℃ the bean surface turns yellow, grassy notes completely disappear, entering the dehydration phase; at 7'56" wrinkles and dark patches appear on the bean surface, toasted bread aroma clearly turns to coffee aroma, which can be defined as the prelude to first crack, at this point it is necessary to carefully listen for the first crack sound; first crack begins at 8'30", damper opened to 5, developed for 1'28" after first crack, dropped at 190℃.

Front Street Coffee (FrontStreet Coffee) Brewing Recommendations

Coffee powder amount: 15g

Ratio: 1:15

Grind: Fine grind (80% passing through No. 20 standard sieve)

Water temperature: 91℃

Front Street Three-Stage Brewing Method

1. First pour: 30 grams of water, bloom for 30 seconds.

2. After blooming, pour the second stage of water, circling from the center outward for 100 grams. This stage can be poured slowly; Geisha coffee is very resistant to extraction and requires a certain pouring time to fully release its aroma. After pouring, wait for the water level to drop to half.

3. When the coffee bed is about to be exposed, pour the third stage of 95 grams of water, for a total pour of 225 grams. Once the coffee has finished filtering, remove the dripper. Total brewing time is approximately 2 minutes.

Geisha Coffee Flavor Descriptions

[Red Label] (Natural) Bright rose and citrus aromas, accompanied by brown rice, berries, apricots, complex fruits, and honey, with a thick juicy mouthfeel, rich flavor layers, and pronounced sweetness.

[Green Label] (Washed) Rich jasmine floral aroma on entry, high sweetness, with citrus, berries, juicy mouthfeel, cream, green tea, orange peel, and cantaloupe, with rich overall layers and a lingering floral and citrus finish.

[Blue Label] (Washed) Soft lemon and grapefruit acidity on entry, with oolong tea, honey, and sugarcane sweetness returning as the temperature drops slightly, with a clean and bright mouthfeel.

(Natural) Fermented aromas and fruity sweetness on the nose, with melon and tropical fruit sweetness on the palate, a juicy mouthfeel, and very high overall sweetness.

Unfortunately, in 2021 Hacienda Esmeralda announced that for that crop season, only the Red Label and Green Label series of Geisha coffee beans would be retained, with more detailed classifications, and Blue Label was not mentioned. For a time, rumors of Blue Label's cancellation ran rampant. Subsequently, Front Street also received definitive news that Hacienda Esmeralda would no longer release the Blue Label Geisha series in 2021.

So does this mean that affordable and excellent Panama Geisha can no longer be enjoyed? Not necessarily. In October 2021, a Panama Boquete Geisha coffee bean called "Las Rocas" arrived at port. This is a Geisha from a brand-new brand, with exquisite packaging. You should know that not many estates in Panama grow Geisha, and after repeated verification by Front Street, it was confirmed that Las Rocas Volcanic Rock Geisha indeed comes from Hacienda Esmeralda, precisely filling the production gap left by Blue Label Geisha.

It seems that Blue Label Geisha has not disappeared, but has simply continued to appear in the consumer market under a different identity. This batch of coffee beans uses washed processing, and the processor is still Hacienda Esmeralda. It can be seen that its quality is equally excellent as Blue Label. Friends who fondly remember Blue Label Geisha may want to look forward to it.

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The above content is compiled by CoffeeHunters, a coffee news website.