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Jamaican Coffee: The Blue Mountain Origin and Quality Story

July 5, 2018
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What makes Jamaican coffee from the Blue Mountains so distinctive?

Jamaican coffee began in the eighteenth century, when France's King Louis XV ordered planting on the island in 1717 and Governor Sir Nicholas Lawes brought Arabica seeds from Martinique in the mid-1720s. Trees took hold in the Blue Mountains, and altitude now separates Jamaican Blue Mountain coffee from High Mountain coffee and Jamaican coffee, with prices rising by grade.

The Blue Mountains rise to 2,256 meters in eastern Jamaica, the Caribbean's highest point, sitting inside the coffee belt. Volcanic soil, humid air, year-round mist and rain, roughly 1,980 mm of annual rainfall and temperatures near 27°C shape the cup. Wallenford Estate and the CIB certification system represent the strict washed processing behind authentic Blue Mountain coffee.

Why is Blue Mountain coffee renowned worldwide? This article begins with the origins of Jamaican coffee, sorting through the unique natural conditions of the Blue Mountains, the characteristics of the Typica variety, strict washed processing and the CIB certification system, and highlights representative producing regions such as Wallenford Estate. It also analyzes the historical origins of Japan's right of first refusal, as well as roasting and brewing recommendations for Blue Mountain coffee, helping enthusiasts truly understand authentic Blue Mountain coffee and Front Street Coffee's sourcing logic.

Exploring the birthplace of Jamaican Blue Mountain coffee: the historical heritage and quality code of Wallenford Estate

For more specialty coffee knowledge, please follow the WeChat official account: Front Street Coffee (FrontStreet Coffee) Whether or not you are obsessed with coffee, the name Jamaican Blue Mountain has probably reached your ears; open any e-commerce platform and products labeled "Blue Mountain flavor" or "Blue Mountain blend" are everywhere. What exactly makes Blue Mountain so memorable? Let's sort through the various threads surrounding Blue Mountain coffee below.

Jamaica's coffee cultivation history can be traced back to the eighteenth century. In 1717, King Louis XV of France ordered coffee to be planted in Jamaica; by the mid-1720s, Jamaica's governor Sir Nicholas Lawes introduced Arabica seeds from Martinique and gradually promoted them in the St. Andrew region. Coffee trees were thus introduced to Jamaica, planted on the Blue Mountains, and subsequently divided by altitude into Jamaican Blue Mountain coffee, High Mountain coffee, and Jamaican coffee—different grades, with prices diverging accordingly.

The Blue Mountains are located in the eastern part of the island of Jamaica. Surrounded by the Caribbean Sea, on clear days sunlight strikes the azure sea directly, and the peaks reflect the sea's dazzling blue glow—hence the name Blue Mountain. The highest peak of the Blue Mountains stands at 2,256 meters, both the highest point in the Caribbean and a well-known tourist destination. Located within the coffee belt, this area has fertile volcanic soil, fresh and pollution-free air, a humid climate, and is foggy and rainy year-round, with average rainfall of about 1,980 mm and temperatures around 27°C—it is precisely this terroir that has produced the world-renowned Jamaican Blue Mountain coffee and made it one of the most expensive coffees in the world. True Blue Mountain coffee ranks among the coffees with the most superior growing conditions in the world; Jamaica's weather, geological structure, and topography together provide a uniquely ideal environment. Designated Jamaican Blue Mountain coffee can only be grown within the Blue Mountain region, located north of Kingston in eastern Jamaica. The ridge running across Jamaica extends all the way to the eastern part of the island, with the Blue Mountains rising over 2,100 meters. The cool, foggy weather and frequent rainfall give this fertile land well-balanced moisture. Locally, coffee trees are cultivated using a mixed-planting method, growing alongside banana and avocado trees on terraces.

Exploring the birthplace of Jamaican Blue Mountain coffee: the historical heritage and quality code of Wallenford Estate

In addition, the terrain is extremely rugged, making harvesting exceptionally difficult, and almost all coffee pickers are women. The coffee trees all grow on steep slopes, and picking is extremely challenging—only skilled local female workers can manage it. During picking, only perfectly ripe coffee cherries must be selected; underripe or overripe ones will affect coffee quality. Processing Method Washed processing: Blue Mountain only uses washed processing

Washing and fermentation are used to remove the skin, pulp, and mucilage. Farms using the washed method must build washing channels and be able to introduce a continuous supply of fresh water. During processing, the skin and pulp are first removed, then the beans are fermented for 12 to 18 hours, after which the fermented beans are moved back and forth in the channel, using friction between the beans and the force of running water to wash the coffee beans until smooth and clean. After washing, the coffee beans are still wrapped in parchment, with a moisture content of 50%, and must be dried to bring moisture down to 12% to 14%, otherwise they will continue to ferment, mold, and spoil. The beans are then sorted and stored in dedicated warehouses. These procedures must be strictly controlled, otherwise coffee quality will suffer. The Three Major Producing Regions of Blue Mountain Coffee The Blue Mountain region has only 6,000 hectares of planted area—it is impossible for all coffee labeled "Blue Mountain" to come from there. Another 12,000 hectares are used to grow two other types of coffee (non-Blue Mountain coffee): High Mountain Supreme coffee and Jamaican coffee.

Exploring the birthplace of Jamaican Blue Mountain coffee: the historical heritage and quality code of Wallenford Estate

Today the St. Andrew producing region remains one of the three major Blue Mountain coffee regions, the other two being Portland and St. Thomas. Some small estates also grow Blue Mountain coffee, such as Wallenford Estate, Silver Hill Estate, and J. Martinez's Atlanta Estate. Even the largest estate owners in the region are considered small-scale growers by international standards, and many of them are small landholders whose families have worked this land for two centuries. The marks currently representing the Blue Mountain coffee place of origin include: Mavis Bank Central Factory (M.B.C.E), Blue Mountain Coffee Cooperative (M.H.C.C.T.), Portland Blue Mountain Coffee Cooperative (P.X.X.S.H.), Coffee Industry Association (Wallenford), Coffee Industry Association (St. John's Peak), and Blue Ridge (J.A.S)—six in total—and some estate grades are also noted on the barrels. Next, several more common Blue Mountain coffee brands are introduced: Coffee Trades

Estate name CLYDESDALE; the company's coffee factory is in the backyard of the CIB office building, and the estate is located at about 1,200 meters on the mid-slope of the Blue Mountains. Jamaica's two other most famous Blue Mountain coffee companies are Wallenford and Mavis Bank, both originally state-controlled. Wallenford's output exceeds 60% of Jamaica's total Blue Mountain production, Mavis Bank over 20%, and it is one of the few companies that simultaneously holds three grades: Jamaican Blue Mountain, Jamaican High Mountain, and Jamaican Select coffee. WALLENFORD

WALLENFORD Estate is located in the heart of Jamaica's Blue Mountains—on the slopes of Catherine's Peak at about 1,524 meters. The estate began growing Blue Mountain coffee in 1790; the year-round cold, foggy climate makes the coffee cherries sweet and full-bodied, producing extremely unique, high-quality Blue Mountain coffee beans. Moreover, while the Jamaican government sold off and privatized most estates, WALLENFORD ESTATE is the only estate retained and directly managed by the Jamaican government, with the strictest quality control processes, not overly pursuing commercial operations but taking it as its duty to uphold the reputation of Jamaican Blue Mountain coffee. 1. The Jamaica Coffee Board's official registered logo, used for certification and inspection of exported Jamaican Blue Mountain coffee; 2. The Jamaica Coffee Board (CIB) officially registered BLUE MOUNTAIN COFFEE® trademark, marking the outer packaging of authentic Jamaican Blue Mountain coffee; 3. The WALLENFORD COFFEE COMPANY registered trademark, marking the outer packaging of WALLENFORD Blue Mountain coffee. Mavis Bank

Exploring the birthplace of Jamaican Blue Mountain coffee: the historical heritage and quality code of Wallenford Estate

The Munn family began operating Mavis Bank in 1885, at a location slightly higher in altitude than the current site, called Strawberry Hill. Mavis Bank processes coffee cherries at high altitude, and after investing in brand-new equipment, the trial-produced coffee beans improved greatly, owing to a truly flawless processing procedure. This coffee has a mild, smooth taste and good body, sometimes reminiscent of the aroma of high-mountain Dong Ding oolong tea. R.S.W Blue Mountain

R.S.W Blue Mountain Estate is located in the mountainous area of southeastern Jamaica; R.S.W refers to 100% Blue Mountain coffee produced by its Resource, Sherwood Forest, and Whitfield Hall estates. Coffee in these three areas is grown at altitudes of about 700 to 1,600 meters; the mountains are often shrouded in cool mist and clouds, which is very favorable for coffee tree growth, and all harvested cherries are concentrated at the Sherwood Forest washing station for processing. Clifton Mount Estate

Clifton Mount is an ancient coffee producing site in Jamaica still in normal operation today, and Clifton Farm is the only one in Jamaica with a "Rainforest" certification. Front Street Blue Mountain No. 1 coffee comes from Clifton Farm and uses traditional washed processing. As early as the mid-eighteenth century (around 1750), Clifton Farm began growing and producing coffee. Its coffee growing and processing areas are located at an average of 4,300 feet (1,310.64 meters); sufficient altitude, gentle afternoon cloud cover shading the mountain forests, ample sunlight, and mineral-rich growing soil provide good growing conditions for the coffee trees and also prolong the ripening of the coffee cherries.

Gold Cup Founded in 2003, Gold Cup is a company jointly established by Dr. Charles Lyn and a team of several farmers in the legally designated Blue Mountain region. Located in St. Andrew at Mount Lebanon at about 975–1,280 meters, and in St. Thomas at Abbey Green Estate at about 1,158–1,585 meters, all are partners; the well-known Abbey Green is also currently one of the largest estates in Jamaica's Blue Mountain region.

Exploring the birthplace of Jamaican Blue Mountain coffee: the historical heritage and quality code of Wallenford Estate

To ensure the best quality and quality control, Gold Cup invests heavily in coffee post-processing, such as updating post-processing hardware including newly installed depulping equipment, and maintains control at every stage of green bean processing, drying, and roasting sample testing. It is also the largest shareholder of the well-known BMCP processing plant; fully ripe red cherries harvested from high-altitude blocks in St. Thomas and St. Andrew are sent to the company-affiliated washing station, where the first stage of processing still involves pre-removing floaters, then they enter the Blue Mountain Coffee Processors LTD processing plant for drying. After sorting and sun-drying, they rest for 8 weeks, and are graded again by green bean size, density, color, and appearance, with a final cupping to confirm whether there is any potential imperfection. All procedures are simultaneously completed under the guidance and control of the Jamaica Coffee Industry Board (CIB), with all specifications executed according to Jamaica's highest domestic standards. Green bean quality is particularly evident in its flagship brand "Amber Estate."

Gold Cup currently has two brands under it: "Amber Estate" and "BMCP" from the Blue Mountain Coffee Processors LTD plant, among which the independent Amber Estate is its top flagship brand; its coffee cherries are 100% harvested from Abbey Green and Mount Lebanon estates, and the highest-quality green beans graded by the Blue Mountain Coffee Processors plant are strictly selected. Blue Mountain Coffee Variety The variety of Blue Mountain coffee is Typica.

Typica has bronze-colored tips on new leaves; its beans are oval or slender-pointed; the tree is tall with slightly slanting branches at 50 to 70 degrees; its flavor is elegant, but the plant is weak with poor disease resistance, and each tree's coffee yield is very low, with little fruit production.

The Typica variety has a distinguishing feature at the leaf tip: a copper-red color, hence the name "red-top coffee." The opposite leaves of the coffee tree are long and oval, with smooth surfaces; the terminal branches are very long with few secondary branches; the flowers are white and bloom at the base where the petiole joins the branch. Ripe coffee berries resemble cherries and are bright red. How did Japan's right of first refusal come about? Mention Blue Mountain coffee and one thinks of how a large portion was purchased by Japan back then, making Blue Mountain coffee hard to find outside Japan. There is a history behind this.

Exploring the birthplace of Jamaican Blue Mountain coffee: the historical heritage and quality code of Wallenford Estate

The Jamaican government established the Jamaica Coffee Industry Board in 1950; this board sets quality standards for Jamaican coffee and supervises the enforcement of those standards to ensure Jamaican coffee quality. The board issues a special official seal for Jamaica's exported green coffee and roasted coffee, because production quality was improved using Japanese loans, thereby securing the market. By 1981, another 1,500 hectares or so of land in Jamaica had been cleared for coffee cultivation, and another 6,000 hectares of coffee land was subsequently invested in. In fact, today's Blue Mountain region is a small place with only 6,000 hectares of planted area; it is impossible for all coffee labeled "Blue Mountain" to be grown there. Another 12,000 hectares are used to grow the other two types of coffee: High Mountain Supreme coffee and Jamaican coffee.

According to Jamaica Coffee Board export statistics as of 2013, of the limited Blue Mountain coffee bean quota, 85% was exported to Japan, 5% to the United States, 5% to Europe, and 5% to other countries. However, in the global distribution of authentic Jamaican Blue Mountain coffee consumption, according to International Coffee Association statistics, China actually accounts for 15% of consumption. This is because part of Japan's, Australia's, and Europe's Jamaican Blue Mountain coffee shares are exported to Taiwan through directly operated branches. Classification and Grading of Blue Mountain: The history of Jamaican coffee can be traced back to the eighteenth century, when the British introduced coffee tree species to Jamaica and planted coffee on the Blue Mountains, divided into high-altitude Jamaican Blue Mountain coffee, Jamaican High Mountain coffee, and Jamaican coffee, with different grades determining different prices.

(1) Jamaican Blue Mountain Coffee Below Blue Mountain coffee and High Mountain coffee, each is further divided into four grades. By quality, from top to bottom: NO.1, NO.2, NO.3, and PB, where PB means peaberry. According to CIB standards, only coffee grown above 666 meters in altitude is called Jamaican Blue Mountain coffee; the cream of the crop among coffees, produced in the Blue Mountain area of Jamaica at about 2,000 to 2,256 meters—because it is located on steep mid-slopes, output is small, the beans are large with excellent quality and harmonious flavor, combining appropriate acidity, bitterness, aroma, body, and sweetness; it is globally recognized as the finest, so the national treasure Blue Mountain No. 1 commands the highest price among all Blue Mountain coffees. (2) Jamaican High Mountain Coffee Coffee produced below 666 meters in Jamaica's Blue Mountain region is called High Mountain coffee; it is second only to Blue Mountain coffee in quality and is called the brother variety of Blue Mountain coffee by industry insiders. Because Jamaican Blue Mountain coffee has extremely low output, if you want to taste Jamaican-style coffee, Jamaican High Mountain coffee is the best choice.

(3) Jamaican Coffee Coffee grown outside the Blue Mountain range is called Jamaican coffee. Originally, Chinese coffee professionals generally had a mistaken understanding, believing that only coffee grown in the Blue Mountain region above 1,800 meters could be called Blue Mountain coffee. In fact, on the mountain crown above 1,800 meters in the Blue Mountains there is only one estate, Amber, which belongs to a person of Chinese descent, the estate owner surnamed Lyn (林), whose ancestral home is Guangdong, China; the estate has only 30 hectares of land and very low output. Blue Mountain coffee is mainly distributed across five mountainous areas of the Blue Mountains: John Crow, St. John's Peak, Mossman's Peak, High Peak, and Blue Mountain Peak. True Jamaican Blue Mountain coffee has certificate authentication: The Jamaican government always used to insist: all Blue Mountain coffee is roasted in Jamaica to ensure unchanged quality. In fact, roasting is a fine art, and doing it well requires experience, training, and expensive equipment. From the consumer's perspective, coffee beans should be obtained and drunk immediately after roasting. Roasting coffee in Jamaica cannot satisfy this requirement. Now, Jamaica's green coffee beans can already be exported. CIB

Jamaica is the only country in the world with a government coffee management agency—the Jamaica Coffee Industry Board (CIB for short), under Jamaica's Ministry of Agriculture and Fisheries. CIB's functions include planting technique guidance, processing training, fair trade, quality supervision, and a series of matters concerning Jamaican Blue Mountain quality and brand. CIB's board members are all estate owners at or above a certain scale in Jamaica (due to industrial shifts, newly certified Jamaican Blue Mountain estates now need more than 50 hectares). CIB stipulates that only Blue Mountain coffee beans produced in Jamaican Blue Mountain regions above 2,200 feet can be called Jamaican Blue Mountain, with grades divided by bean size into NO.1, NO.2, NO.3, and hand-selected PB, where the basic standard for NO.1 Blue Mountain green beans is beans of 17 screen size or above, defect rate below 3%, moisture content around 13%, etc. To date, Blue Mountain coffee green beans have only one processing method: washed; there is no natural or other processing method.

Exploring the birthplace of Jamaican Blue Mountain coffee: the historical heritage and quality code of Wallenford Estate

Currently, the Jamaica Coffee Board can issue certificates for all Blue Mountain coffee exported on the market. Certificates fall into three types: (1) Quality certification certificate issued by the Jamaica Coffee Board (2) Authorized sales certificate issued by the Blue Mountain coffee producer. (Blue Mountain coffee is distributed by 4 Jamaican government-licensed processors and exported by 16 licensed exporters) (3) Jamaican Blue Mountain Coffee certificate of origin Quality certification certificates all indicate time and quantity. The Jamaica Coffee Board randomly draws one package from the submitted Blue Mountain coffee for inspection; if it meets Blue Mountain coffee conditions, a certificate is issued.

Front Street Coffee (FrontStreet Coffee) recently imported Blue Mountain from the place of origin with this certificate. Among all coffees, only Blue Mountain uses barrel packaging; other coffees are exported in burlap sacks. It is said that in the mid-eighteenth century, during the British colonial period, flour shipped from Britain to Jamaica was reused in empty barrels to transport coffee and rum. Today's barrels are made from wood from American temperate forests; the advantage of barrels is that they absorb and release internal and external moisture without much change, buffering sudden temperature changes during transport. In addition, barrel sealing isolates coffee aroma and can maintain the best coffee quality, but the added cost is relatively high. How should Blue Mountain coffee best be roasted?

Simply put, roast Blue Mountain thoroughly from inside to outside, and on the basis of proper roasting use good roasting techniques to express this bean's flavor.

Exploring the birthplace of Jamaican Blue Mountain coffee: the historical heritage and quality code of Wallenford Estate

Caramelization is the single most influential stage for coffee flavor. After six to seven minutes of roasting, green beans absorb a large amount of heat energy, initiating pyrolysis reactions, and the first crack sound appears; some sugars convert to carbon dioxide, moisture continues to evaporate, and new aromatic components gradually develop, forming so-called coffee oils, which combine with hundreds of aromatic substances such as nicotinic acid, citric acid, quinic acid, malic acid, acetic acid, and caffeine. Roasting curve: charge when drum temperature reaches 170°C, air damper set to 3, after 1 minute adjust heat to 140°C, keep air damper unchanged, roast to 5'10'', temperature 153°C, bean surface turns yellow, grassy smell completely disappears, dehydration complete, adjust heat to 115°C, air damper to 4; At 8'00", the bean surface shows ugly wrinkles and dark streaks, and the toast aroma clearly turns to coffee aroma, which can be defined as the prelude to first crack; at this point listen clearly for the sound of the first crack point; at 8'12" first crack begins, reduce heat to 90°C, open air damper fully (adjust heat very carefully, not so low that there is no cracking sound), and drop at 201.3°C.

Cupping A perfect and subtle balance of acidity, body, and aroma. Its acidity is bright and delicate. Its body is velvety smooth. Its aroma has a slight piercing quality, accompanied by floral, spicy, and citric tones. After entering the mouth there is a hint of cocoa in the aftertaste. The flavor is very clean, complex, very mild, with chocolate sweetness and very strong body. The taste is rich and mellow; the coffee's sweetness, acidity, and bitterness are perfectly balanced, with no bitterness at all, only moderate and perfect acidity, and a long fruity finish.

Dry aroma: Roasted peanut, hazelnut, melon, chocolate-like Wet aroma: Rose-tea, caramel, honey, black-chocolate, almond skins, silky mouthfeel, brightness So how should we drink this Blue Mountain coffee bean? Filter cup choices for daily brewing: V60, Kalita wave, and KONO are all fine

Taking the KONO dripper as an example: Parameters: 15g coffee, water temperature 86–88°C, grind medium granulated sugar coarseness (Chinese standard No. 20 sieve, 75% pass-through), i.e., EK43s setting 10.5, water-to-coffee ratio close to 1:15, total time about 2 minutes Method: bloom with 30g water for 30s, slowly pour to about 125g and pause, then when the water level drops and is about to expose the coffee bed, resume pouring to 225g.

Tips: Blue Mountain is roasted relatively dark; if the water temperature used is too high, it easily produces astringency and will carry a very obvious smoky flavor. How to identify real vs. fake Blue Mountain? 1 Appearance: Blue Mountain coffee green beans are bluish-green, very uniform in appearance, medium-to-small in size, with slightly raised ends; after roasting they expand considerably in volume and are very plump. 2 Grinding: Real Blue Mountain coffee beans grow at high altitude, and their cellular structure is relatively loose; when hand-grinding, it feels very crisp, smooth, and continuous, without a sense of resistance. 3 Aroma: The aroma is very rich and dense; so-called blended Blue Mountain coffee does not have this aroma. 4 Taste: Real Blue Mountain coffee has a balanced, rich mouthfeel, without any one flavor standing out or being lacking—this is also something no other coffee bean can match, and it is the most crucial point for identification.

So, what is Blue Mountain flavor coffee? So-called "Blue Mountain blend" actually has nothing to do with Blue Mountain; the reason this situation arose is that early Blue Mountain coffee was rare and expensive, and operators, based on this Blue Mountain flavor, used mixed beans plus dark roasting to create coffee close to Blue Mountain's mouthfeel. Therefore, conscientious merchants in domestic and overseas markets will tell customers that this is comprehensive Blue Mountain, Blue Mountain blend, Blue Mountain flavor, or Blue Mountain-style coffee beans, not real Blue Mountain coffee. Real Blue Mountain and Blue Mountain flavor are two different concepts; generally, other bean varieties are roasted to imitate coffee with a mouthfeel similar to Blue Mountain coffee. "Blue Mountain blend" beans are mixed, with relatively large differences in shape, making them easier to identify. Also, do not believe in "supreme Blue Mountain" at just a few dozen yuan per pound or "Blue Mountain coffee" at just over ten yuan a cup. Not everything labeled "Blue Mountain" is real Blue Mountain; I hope this helps everyone identify it!

The above content is compiled by CoffeeHunters, a coffee news website.

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