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Tracing the Origins of Panama Hacienda La Esmeralda's Diamond Mountain Series: A Full Analysis of Catuai Variety Characteristics and Natural Process Flavors

November 13, 2017
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In the world of specialty coffee, Panama's Hacienda La Esmeralda has repeatedly created legends with its Geisha variety, but its Diamond Mountain series is also worth attention. This series comes from the Boquete region around the Baru Volcano, mainly featuring the Catuai variety, combining high yield and disease resistance with a clean and bright flavor profile. Hacienda La Esmeralda uses natural processing for Diamond Mountain, employing Guardiola dryers and a resting and stabilizing process to give the coffee rich fruity aromas, honey sweetness, and a cocoa finish. After Front Street Coffee introduced this series, it presents its red berry notes through a medium-light roast. This article will trace the rise of Hacienda La Esmeralda, its award records, and provide a detailed analysis of Diamond Mountain's origin conditions, variety advantages, processing methods, and brewing flavor performance.

巴拿马翡翠庄园钻石山系列溯源:卡杜艾品种特色与日晒风味全解析

Panama - Hacienda La Esmeralda Diamond Mountain

Panama La Esmeralda Diamond Mountain

Introduction to Coffee Cultivation at Hacienda La Esmeralda

Hacienda La Esmeralda is located in the countryside around Boquete in southwestern Panama. It was originally not a single coffee plantation, but a diversified farm. Coffee was only part of its economic income; the farm also raised dairy cattle and cultivated citrus fruit trees. The real turning point that made Hacienda La Esmeralda famous came at the end of the twentieth century—the Peterson family, the estate owners, unexpectedly discovered a coffee variety with great potential: GEISHA. Through continuous selection and planting, starting in 2004, this variety went on to win championships in multiple coffee competitions, securing Hacienda La Esmeralda's position as a king in the global coffee landscape.

2002 was an important watershed in the development of Hacienda La Esmeralda. Daniel Peterson, the youngest son of the Petersons, noticed that the entire farm—including the original Hacienda La Esmeralda southwest of Boquete and the Jaramillo estate incorporated in 1996—had always harvested and sold coffee from both areas together. Although the overall evaluation was acceptable, the quality and flavor were not uniform. He had a vague feeling that the exceptionally elegant citrus fruit aroma and sweetness should come from outstanding coffee in certain specific plots within the estate. So Daniel began conducting cupping comparisons plot by plot, and finally, in several higher-altitude valleys in the Jaramillo area, he discovered those coffee trees with tall, slender shapes and low yields. These coffees performed extremely well in cupping, and after much verification, it was confirmed that this variety, which thrives in high-altitude and low-temperature environments, was the later world-renowned GEISHA (Geisha).

In 2004, Hacienda La Esmeralda entered this special batch of coffee in the Best of Panama (BOP) cupping competition. Geisha's unique aroma and full body greatly impressed the judges, winning the championship for "Best of Panama" and setting a historical record at that year's auction of $21 per pound. This competition brought Hacienda La Esmeralda's Geisha coffee widespread attention in the specialty coffee world. After that, in 2005, 2006, 2007, 2009, and 2010, the estate won the BOP championship multiple times again.

Other award records of Hacienda La Esmeralda:

Specialty Coffee Association of America (SCAA) Cupping Champion (2007, 2006, 2005)

Specialty Coffee Association of America (SCAA) Coffee of the Year Second Place (2009, 2008)

Best of Panama Champion (2010, 2009, 2007, 2006, 2005, 2004)

Rainforest Alliance Coffee Quality Cupping Competition Champion (2009, 2008, 2007, 2006, 2004)

Today, Panama's Hacienda La Esmeralda is the coffee estate with the highest award-winning rate in the world.

The Relationship Between Hacienda La Esmeralda and Diamond Mountain

From consecutive championships starting in 2004 to independent bidding auctions beginning in 2008, Hacienda La Esmeralda has set countless record-breaking prices. However, while its top products continue to shine, the estate has also launched many more affordably priced green bean offerings, including the Diamond Mountain series introduced by Front Street Coffee.

Front Street Coffee's Diamond Mountain series is grown in the Boquete region on the right side of the Baru Volcano, on the outskirts of the Canas Verdes and Jaramillo areas, at an altitude of about 1,400 to 1,600 meters. The coffee planted in this area mainly consists of Typica, Bourbon, and Catuai. The volcanic soil provides excellent growing conditions for the coffee, while the primary forest gives the coffee trees ample shade. Such a uniquely favorable environment gives the green beans rich and complex fruity aromas, chocolate, and fresh spice flavors.

In addition to producing high-quality green coffee beans, Hacienda La Esmeralda Diamond Mountain also continuously pursues sustainable operation and puts it into practice. The entire estate holds Rainforest Alliance certification, ensuring that the habitats of birds and wildlife are not damaged by human activity; wastewater generated during post-processing of green beans is also recycled and reused, ensuring clean water sources and forming a self-sufficient coffee estate ecosystem.

A Well-Known Hacienda La Esmeralda Product — Diamond Mountain

Geographical Environment: Diamond Mountain is another star brand under Hacienda La Esmeralda, mainly featuring the Catuai variety. This green coffee is sourced from Jaramillo and Canas Verdes, two of the four independent farms under Hacienda La Esmeralda. The volcanic soil of these two farms is an excellent condition for growing coffee, and the primary forest also provides sufficient shade for the coffee trees. In such a superior environment, the green coffee beans produced have rich fruity aromas and sweetness, making it another popular independent brand of Hacienda La Esmeralda besides Geisha.

As is well known, coffee flavor is greatly influenced by variety, and the exquisite flavor of Geisha coffee is precisely why this variety is so popular. The variety of Diamond Mountain, however, is Catuai planted at Hacienda La Esmeralda.

The Catuai variety combines advantages on two fronts: high yield, strong disease resistance, and a clean, bright flavor. Compared with the Bourbon variety, Catuai has a much higher yield. One reason is that the plant is smaller, allowing shorter spacing, and its planting density is almost twice that of Bourbon.

The quality of Front Street Coffee's Diamond Mountain coffee comes not only from its superior growing environment and high-yield variety, but also from another advantage: Hacienda La Esmeralda's mature processing techniques. The Diamond Mountain in this cupping uses natural processing. At Hacienda La Esmeralda, after harvest the coffee cherries are sent directly to the courtyard for drying, where the fruit is evenly dried. As is characteristic of natural coffee, the pulp dries together with the bean, and the coffee bean absorbs the sugars from it, thus developing more fruity and fermented aromas.

巴拿马翡翠庄园钻石山系列溯源:卡杜艾品种特色与日晒风味全解析

Guardiola is Hacienda La Esmeralda's preferred drying method. As long as the size of the coffee batch allows, Guardiola can handle large quantities of coffee. This is a horizontally rotating drum that allows warm air to flow around the beans, thereby removing moisture and reducing the chance of mold. After the coffee beans are dried, they are packed into nylon bags and left in the warehouse for 30 to 45 days. This step is also called "reposo," which helps stabilize the coffee beans and enhance the flavor in the cup.

Hacienda La Esmeralda — Introduction to the Flavor Description of Front Street Coffee's Diamond Mountain Series Coffee

When Front Street Coffee (FrontStreet Coffee) observed the natural-process green beans of Diamond Mountain, it found that the green beans were yellowish in color, and natural-process green beans also had more silver skin on the surface. Caturra green beans have a curved tail end and are round and slender; Catuai beans are flat in shape with a relatively slender tail end. To retain more of the red berry notes in the coffee beans, Front Street's roaster uses a medium-light roast to present this Diamond Mountain. Now let's brew a cup and taste how it is.

Front Street Coffee (FrontStreet Coffee)'s Diamond Mountain Brewing Suggestions

Grind size: medium-fine grind (80% passing through China standard No. 20 sieve)

Brewing flavor: citrus, bright acidity, nuts, honey, slight fermentation, smooth mouthfeel, cocoa finish.

The above content is compiled by CoffeeHunters, a coffee news website.

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