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History of Siphon Coffee and Yirgacheffe Natural Beans: Worka Cooperative Cultivation

April 27, 2017
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How does natural processing start with history of siphon coffee?

Ethiopia's Yirgacheffe region produces washed and natural coffees with clearly different cups. Natural processing, the older method, sends picked fruit straight to drying beds for roughly four weeks with no pulp removal, demanding a very dry climate and meticulous turning. The result leans toward heavy berry character, while washed lots show brighter acidity.

The Worka cooperative applies strict quality control across arabica coffee varieties and plot management, and the article compares aroma, acidity, and body between the two processing styles plus pour-over parameters. Ethiopia's growing history, from colonial invasions to Emperor Selassie's reign, frames how these traditions took root and still shape farm practice today.

Yirgacheffe is Ethiopia's most iconic specialty coffee region, and its washed and natural processing methods each present distinctly different flavor profiles. This article starts from Ethiopia's coffee-growing history, traces Yirgacheffe's geographical origins and the evolution of its processing techniques, compares the specific differences between natural and washed beans in aroma, acidity, body, and more, and includes pour-over parameter suggestions. It also introduces the strict quality control process of the Worka cooperative, as well as Front Street Coffee's recommendation and brewing approach for natural Yirgacheffe, providing coffee lovers with a complete understanding from origin to cup.

Early Western Colonial Invasion Period

In the 16th century, Portugal and the Ottoman Empire invaded one after another. In 1867, British troops invaded Ethiopia, and in 1887, the Mahdist army from Sudan invaded.

In 1889, Menelik II proclaimed himself emperor, unified the country, established the capital at Addis Ababa, and laid the foundation for the territory of modern Ethiopia. In 1890, Italy invaded, pushed out British influence, and declared Ethiopia an Italian "protectorate." In 1896, Menelik II led troops to a crushing victory over the Italian army at Adwa, and Italy was forced to recognize Ethiopia's independence. [1]

The Reign of Emperor Selassie

In 1916, Haile Selassie was made regent, and in 1928 he ascended the throne as king. On November 2, 1930, he was crowned Emperor Haile Selassie I. In 1936, Italy invaded again, occupied Addis Ababa, and conquered the whole of Ethiopia, and Selassie went into exile in London. In 1941, the Allied forces defeated Italy, and on May 5 of the same year, Selassie I returned to his country and was restored to the throne. He was deposed after a domestic coup in 1974.

1. Natural/Dried-in-the-Fruit:

After the fruit is picked, it undergoes no treatment and goes directly into the sun-drying stage. This is the oldest known processing method. The entire drying cycle generally lasts about four weeks. The operation must be extremely meticulous to ensure the coffee flavor is not lost. The natural sun-drying method places high demands on local climate conditions and requires a very dry environment. Some producing regions use dryers to assist fruit dehydration (hot air can speed up drying and also makes the degree of drying easier to control).

2. Fully Washed

The skin, pulp, and mucilage are removed through washing and fermentation. Farms using the washed method must build washing tanks and have a continuous supply of fresh water. In practice, the fermented beans are poured into the tank and pushed back and forth; through the friction between the beans and the scouring force of the water, the coffee beans are washed until smooth and clean. After washing is completed, the coffee beans are still wrapped in the parchment layer, with a moisture content of about 50%, and must be dried to reduce the moisture content to 12%; otherwise, fermentation will continue and lead to mold and spoilage. The ideal drying method is sunlight drying. Although it takes one to three weeks, the flavor performance is exceptionally outstanding and highly popular.

[Pour-over Data]

[Natural Yirgacheffe]: It is recommended to use 15 g of grounds at 89°C water temperature, Fuji Royal grinding setting 4, a V60 dripper, and a water-to-coffee ratio of 1:15. For the first pour, add 30 g of water and let it bloom for 25 s. For the second pour, add 104 g of water and pause. For the second pour, add water until 230 g. Do not use the final portion of the brew. The extraction time is about 2:12.

[Washed Yirgacheffe]: It is recommended to use 15 g of grounds at 92°C water temperature, a water-to-coffee ratio of 1:15, a V60 dripper, and a water-to-coffee ratio of 1:15. For the first pour, add 30 g of water and let it bloom for 28 s–30 s. For the second pour, add 110 g of water and pause. For the second pour, add water until 230 g. Do not use the final portion of the brew. The extraction time is about 2:15.

Brewed this way as pour-over, you can feel Yirgacheffe's refreshing sensation, as if flowers are stimulating the taste buds and olfactory cells in the nasal cavity. After harvesting, the coffee beans must immediately enter the processing procedure; otherwise, they will begin to ferment and produce off-flavors. There are two processing methods: "natural" and "washed," and these two methods create different flavors. Natural beans have a complete natural mellow taste, gentle aroma, and more mucilage; washed beans have a good mellow taste, high aroma, and lively acidity.

This place has been a wetland since ancient times. In the old language, [yirga] means [settle down], and [cheffe] means [wetland]. Therefore, [Yirgacheffe] means [let us settle and establish ourselves on this wetland]. It is one of the coffee-producing regions with the highest average altitude in Ethiopia.

Yirgacheffe is generally washed, but a small amount of exceptional beans is deliberately processed as natural to enhance the alluring fruity aroma and body.

Natural Yirgacheffe: light fermented wine aroma, spice notes

Washed Yirgacheffe: jasmine aroma, lemon or lime acidity

[Using a ratio of 8 g of grounds to 150 ml of 93°C hot water in a cup, let the coffee steep for 3–4 minutes until a crust forms]

Differences in mouthfeel:

Natural Yirgacheffe: The natural process is a bit complex, with a light fermented wine aroma, a somewhat heavier bitter caramel note, and a much richer mouthfeel, with honey sweetness and cocoa notes accompanied by a hint of spice, a thick body, and a long-lasting finish.

Washed Yirgacheffe: The washed process has brighter acidity, like citric acid, a fresher and more fragrant mouthfeel, more obvious citrus aroma, and a somewhat black tea sensation in the aftertaste.

Similarities: Both have fruity acidity, similar to fruits such as lemon and citrus.

Coffee trees are mostly planted in farmers' backyards or intercropped with other crops on farmland. Each household produces only a small amount, making it a typical garden coffee. These small mountain villages are shrouded in mist, with spring-like weather all year round, gentle summer breezes that are cool rather than hot, rainy but not damp, and winters without cold damage, nurturing a unique [taste of place] with citrus and floral aromas.

The so-called "Yirgacheffe flavor" refers to intense jasmine aroma, lemon, peach, almond sweetness, and tea aroma.

The author's tasting experience can be summed up in one sentence: coffee enters the mouth, and a hundred flowers bloom! It is just like the pleasant sensation of flowers stimulating the taste buds and olfactory cells in the nasal cavity. In addition to floral aroma, the delicate body is like silk massaging the mouth, with a wondrous tactile feel.

Traditionally, Yirgacheffe used the oldest natural processing method, but in 1972, Ethiopia introduced washed techniques from Central and South America in order to improve quality, making Yirgacheffe's jasmine and citrus aromas even clearer and more refined.

It leaped to become a world-class exceptional specialty bean, and its superb washing technique played an indispensable role. After the 1970s, this region was mainly washed and became Ethiopia's most flourishing washed-coffee producing area.

However, in the past two years, Yirgacheffe has broken with convention and frequently released stunning natural beans, becoming a hot favorite in the specialty market!

Natural Yirgacheffe has small, neat, short round beans. Ethiopian natural beans are generally G3–G5, but these beans are G2, equivalent to the grade of washed beans. Although there are still a few defective beans, compared with the natural beans of Harar and Sidamo, this is already rare and commendable.

In 2015, natural Yirgacheffe already appeared at G1 grade, surpassing G1 washed in both quality and appearance.

These beans are roasted until the first crack is dense and then removed from the roaster. When brewed by pour-over or siphon, the natural fruity aroma is already striking when grinding the beans. The sweetness is obvious, and it also has the signature citrus and jasmine aromas of washed Yirgacheffe. It drinks much like a blend of Harar, Yemen Mocha, and washed Yirgacheffe all in one!

Natural Yirgacheffe has strict standards for collecting red cherries (the fruit produced by the coffee tree). Before sun-drying the coffee cherries, unripe green cherries or defective cherries are removed by hand. During the sun-drying process, damaged or moldy cherries are removed again. After two weeks, the sugar and essence of the pulp have fully penetrated into the coffee beans, and the moisture content drops to 12%. Then the hardened pulp, pectin layer, and parchment are all scraped clean together with a hulling machine. After the coffee beans are taken out, they still undergo density and bean color testing. After eliminating defective beans, workers finally remove any missed defective beans by eye. With layer upon layer of quality control and screening, Yirgacheffe natural beans achieve their clean and refined character, along with a rich and alluring fruity aroma. Ethiopia is an ancient country with a 3,000-year history of civilization. The Hamitic peoples who migrated from southern Arabia were the earliest inhabitants.

In 975 BC, Menelik I became king. In the 8th century BC, the Kingdom of Nubia was established. Anchor point China Coffee Network

From the 1st century AD to 976 AD, the Ethiopian Empire, also known as the Kingdom of Aksum, was established in the north at Aksum. Christianity was introduced to Ethiopia in the 4th–5th centuries. From the 12th century to 1270, the Zagwe dynasty was established.

In 1270, the Abyssinian Empire was established. [3] Ethiopia anchor point

The above content is compiled by CoffeeHunters, a coffee news website.

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