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Geisha Coffee Origins: From La Esmeralda to Colombia

December 10, 2016
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Where Does Geisha Coffee Come From and Why It Matters?

Geisha coffee is a variety first found in 1931 in Ethiopia's Geisha forest, later sent to Kenya, then to Uganda and Tanzania in 1936, Costa Rica in 1953 and Panama in 1970. It drew little attention until Panama's La Esmeralda Estate separated it in 2003 and won the BOP competition in 2004, which brought the variety worldwide recognition.

The variety needs high altitude, cloud cover or shade trees, and fertile soil to show its floral and fruity profile. Panama's Boquete region is the reference point, and Colombia's La Esperanza Estate is often named as the closest to La Esmeralda Geisha. La Esmeralda's Red Label, Green Label and Blue Label lots differ in character, with some drinkers treating the top lots as laminita the finest coffee in the world.

Geisha coffee is hailed as the most outstanding coffee variety today, journeying from the primitive forests of Ethiopia to the world stage, and making its name at Panama's La Esmeralda Estate. Nowadays, many coffee-producing countries have begun cultivating Geisha, but the terroir of different origins gives it distinctly different personalities. This article takes you deep into the origins and spread of Geisha, provides a detailed analysis of the characteristics and differences among La Esmeralda Estate's three major lots—Red Label, Green Label, and Blue Label—and visits Colombia's La Esperanza Estate to explore this classic origin known as the closest to La Esmeralda Geisha. Front Street Coffee also brings brewing suggestions and roasting analysis for multiple Geisha coffees, helping you fully appreciate Geisha coffee's floral and fruity aromas and rich layers.

A Complete Global Analysis of Geisha Coffee Origins: A Flavor Journey from Panama Emerald Estate to Colombia Hope Estate

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Geisha coffee beans are now widely recognized as the coffee variety with the most exceptional flavor, though due to differences in growing regions, Geisha produced in various places each has its own characteristics. Given Geisha's renowned reputation, many coffee-producing countries are now introducing and cultivating Geisha, including experimental lots and commercial production lots. So, how is the quality of Geisha coffee from these different origins? Front Street will explore this in depth.

Geisha was discovered in 1931 in the Geisha forest of Ethiopia. It was subsequently sent to the coffee research institute in Kenya, introduced to Uganda and Tanzania in 1936, brought to Costa Rica in 1953, and arrived in Panama in 1970.

At first, Geisha did not attract much attention until Panama's La Esmeralda Estate separated it from other varieties in 2003 and won the BOP competition championship in 2004, when Geisha coffee truly entered the public eye.

The refined and elegant flavors displayed by the Geisha variety stem from its specific growing environment. This variety is extremely demanding about growing conditions, requiring high altitude, cloud cover or abundant shade trees, and fertile soil to thrive.

Among them, Panama's Boquete region is the most representative, where the Geisha produced is highly sought after by coffee enthusiasts, and the famous La Esmeralda Estate is also located here. Currently, La Esmeralda Estate has three sub-estates: El Velo, Cañas Verdes, and Jaramillo. Specialty lots of Geisha coffee come from plots in the Jaramillo and Cañas Verdes estates, and many auction lots of Geisha come from Cañas Verdes Estate. The Front Street Panama La Esmeralda Red Label listed by Front Street comes from the Mario plot of Cañas Verdes.

A Complete Global Analysis of Geisha Coffee Origins: A Flavor Journey from Panama Emerald Estate to Colombia Hope Estate

La Esmeralda Estate's Geisha is divided into three grades: Red Label, Green Label, and Blue Label. Among them, the Red Label lot has the finest quality and the highest price.

[Esmeralda Special] Esmeralda Special is what we commonly call "Red Label." Red Label Geisha is grown at altitudes of 1600-1800 meters, scores above 90 points in cupping, and mainly comes from the Jaramillo and Cañas Verdes production areas. Red Label lots offer either washed or natural processing options. There is also an Esmeralda Auction, a brand that La Esmeralda Estate separated from Red Label in 2022, primarily allowing buyers to obtain lots through bidding.

Front Street Panama La Esmeralda Red Label Geisha Coffee Beans Region: Boquete, Panama Estate: La Esmeralda Estate, Mario Plot Altitude: 1700m Processing: Natural

Flavor: Lemon, honey, berries, orange peel, mango, cream, citrus

[Private Collection] Private Collection, commonly known as Green Label. Green Label lots do not participate in auctions but still have excellent quality. Green Label Geisha is grown at altitudes of 1600-1800 meters, mainly blended from lots from different plots including Jaramillo and Cañas Verdes. Due to the practice of blending different plots, there are sometimes cases where Green Label Geisha and Red Label Geisha have very similar flavors. Although Green Label Geisha is not as high-grade as Red Label, it still carries Geisha's classic flavors—floral aroma, fruity notes, citrus acidity, and a rich, juicy mouthfeel. Green Label Geisha also offers either washed or natural processing.

[Geisha 1500] Geisha 1500 is commonly known as Blue Label. Grown at altitudes of 1400-1500 meters, La Esmeralda Blue Label blends Geisha coffee beans from three different plots: Jaramillo, Cañas Verdes, and El Velo. In previous years, Blue Label Geisha was only available as washed, but this year the Blue Label lot has added a natural processing method. It is worth noting that La Esmeralda Estate discontinued the Blue Label series starting in 2021, selling the Geisha produced in that area externally as Panama Volcanic Rock Geisha coffee beans, with flavors consistent with the original Blue Label. Front Street notes that Front Street Panama Volcanic Rock Geisha is only available as washed, with flavors of light floral aroma and fruity sweet-tartness, and a less full mouthfeel compared to the other two brands.

Front Street Panama Volcanic Rock Geisha Coffee Beans

Region: Boquete, Panama

Estate: La Esmeralda Estate

Altitude: 1500 meters

Variety: Geisha

Processing: Washed

Flavor: Citrus acidity, jasmine, honey

Front Street Coffee Brewing Suggestions

Geisha coffee has rich and diverse flavors with prominent floral and fruity aromas. Front Street recommends choosing freshly roasted coffee beans so you can taste the complete flavor of the coffee. Coffee beans enter their optimal flavor period 4-7 days after roasting, and after this period the aroma will dissipate at an accelerated rate. Coffee beans shipped by Front Street are all freshly roasted within 5 days, so you can brew and enjoy them as soon as you receive them.

A Complete Global Analysis of Geisha Coffee Origins: A Flavor Journey from Panama Emerald Estate to Colombia Hope Estate

To highlight the flavor layers of this Geisha, Front Street uses a Hario V60 dripper for brewing, with some adjustments to the parameters: the dose remains 15g, the ratio is 1:16, the water temperature is 93°C, and the grind size is fine granulated sugar coarseness (78% passing rate on a No. 20 standard sieve).

1. Pour 30g of water for the bloom and let it sit for 30 seconds.

2. Pour 110g of water, keeping the flow as steady as possible to raise the coffee bed and allow the coffee grounds to fully extract with as much water as possible.

3. Pour the final 115g of water, pouring in circular motions around the outer edge as the water level slightly drops. Wait for the coffee to finish draining, remove the dripper, with a total brew time of 2 minutes and 5 seconds.

This method excellently brings out the jasmine and berry aromas of Front Street Panama La Esmeralda Blue Label Geisha, highlighting the berry and honey flavors with a relatively full mouthfeel.

Colombia La Esperanza Estate Geisha

Besides the high-quality Geisha from Panama's La Esmeralda Estate, the Geisha coffee beans from Colombia's La Esperanza Estate are also highly anticipated. La Esperanza Estate is located in Colombia's Huila region. The estate does not belong to an individual or family coffee farm, but rather is a collective of several coffee farmers who sell under the name La Esperanza.

A Complete Global Analysis of Geisha Coffee Origins: A Flavor Journey from Panama Emerald Estate to Colombia Hope Estate

La Esperanza Estate is distributed in forests at altitudes of 1400-1650 meters, with fully ripe coffee cherries hand-picked. The coffee farmers insist on a good growing environment and persistently control excellent green bean quality. It was the champion estate in the 2007 Colombia coffee competition, and in 2008 also took 9th, 12th, and 14th places (different coffee growers). In November 2008, it was given a high score of 93 points by American coffee expert Kenneth Davids (author of Coffee Review and Home Coffee Roasting), making it a top-tier estate in Colombia.

La Esperanza Estate has four farms in total (Esperanza, Las Margaritas, Cerro Azul, and Potosi). It won the BOP Best of Panama championship (2008) and runner-up (2009), and in 2012 swept three of the top ten spots in SCAA Coffee Of The Year with 2nd, 3rd, and 7th places from three products. In the GFA (Good Food Award), La Esperanza Estate also became the only award-winning estate outside of Ethiopia, Kenya, and Panama.

A Complete Global Analysis of Geisha Coffee Origins: A Flavor Journey from Panama Emerald Estate to Colombia Hope Estate

La Esperanza Estate's Geisha coffee was introduced from Panama's La Esmeralda Estate, so it is called the coffee closest to La Esmeralda Geisha. This Front Street Colombia La Esperanza Estate Geisha that Front Street has acquired uses washed processing.

The sorted coffee cherries are placed into a depulper to initially remove the skin and pulp; the green coffee beans with residual pulp and mucilage are placed in water to ferment for about 24 hours; after fermentation, the green coffee beans with parchment are washed in a flowing water channel to remove the pulp and mucilage; after washing, the coffee beans are sun-dried or dried with a mechanical dryer to reduce the moisture content to about 12%. Finally, the parchment is removed from the green coffee beans.

Front Street Colombia La Esperanza Estate Geisha Coffee Beans

Region: Huila, Colombia

Estate: La Esperanza Estate

Altitude: 1800 meters

Variety: Geisha

Processing: Washed

Flavor: Jasmine, sweet orange, lemon, honey, cream, oolong tea

Front Street Coffee Roasting Analysis The green beans look beautifully blue-green and smell of distinct fermented fruit and orange aromas.

Roaster Yangjia 800n (300g batch size)

Charge at 160°C, set airflow to 3, adjust heat to 140 after 30 seconds, keep airflow unchanged, turning point at 1'42", when temperature reaches 140°C adjust heat to 120, open airflow to 4; at this point the bean surface turns yellow, the grassy smell completely disappears, entering the dehydration phase, when temperature reaches 166°C, adjust heat to 110, keep airflow unchanged;

At 7'50", the bean surface shows ugly wrinkles and dark patches, the toasted bread smell clearly turns to coffee aroma, which can be defined as the prelude to first crack. At this point, listen carefully for the sound of first crack. First crack begins at 8'15", reduce heat to 50, adjust airflow to 5 (adjusting heat requires great care, do not reduce it so much that there is no cracking sound). After first crack, develop for 1'28", drop at 190°C.

A Complete Global Analysis of Geisha Coffee Origins: A Flavor Journey from Panama Emerald Estate to Colombia Hope Estate

Front Street Coffee Brewing Suggestions Dripper: Hario V60 Water temperature: 90-92°C Coffee-to-water ratio: 1:15 Grind size: (78% passing rate on China standard No. 20 sieve)

Brewing method: Bloom with 30g of water for 30 seconds, pour to 125g in stages, when the water level drops and is about to expose the coffee bed, continue pouring to 225g and stop, when the water level drops and is about to expose the coffee bed, remove the dripper, (timing starts from the beginning of the bloom) extraction time is about two minutes.

When brewed with higher water temperature, this Front Street Colombia La Esperanza Estate Geisha tastes with more pronounced sweetness and tea-like notes, with citrus, plum, and bergamot acidity, mid-palate flavors of cinnamon and caramel, and a distinct oolong tea finish; when brewed with lower water temperature, Front Street Colombia La Esperanza Estate Geisha has clearly layered overall flavors—on the entry you first sense light floral aromas and citrus, orange, lemon, and slight berry acidity, then mid-palate brings forth creamy, honeyed sweetness, with a finish of light oolong tea aroma and sugarcane sweetness.

The above content is compiled by CoffeeHunters, a coffee news website.

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