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Golden Mandheling Coffee: Sumatra PWN Region and Brewing

October 27, 2016
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What makes golden mandheling coffee from Sumatra different?

Golden Mandheling coffee from the PWN selection comes from Mount Gayo in Aceh Province, northern Sumatra, where smallholders farm shade-grown coffee at roughly 1,110 to 1,600 meters. The wet-hulling process gives the beans a low yet lively body, and the PWN screening standard sorts lots for consistency before export.

Full-bodied coffee is often mistaken for bitter, but at higher body levels a brown-sugar sweetness emerges alongside herbal, woody, and spicy notes. A Kono dripper suits these beans, and roast suggestions for golden mandheling usually push development far enough to bring out caramel and dark chocolate while keeping acidity low.

Indonesian Mandheling coffee has won the favor of a large number of coffee lovers with its rich and full-bodied taste. Many people mistakenly believe that full-bodied equals bitter, but in fact, when the body of coffee reaches a certain level, it instead reveals a sweet finish and a brown-sugar-like sweetness. The Front Street Golden Mandheling on the Front Street Coffee bean list is a typical example, with rich layers that refresh many beginners' understanding of "full-bodied." This article focuses on Front Street PWN Golden Mandheling, introducing one by one its producing region background, PWN company's screening standards, variety and wet-hulling process, roasting suggestions, as well as brewing parameters and flavor performance using the Kono dripper, to give you a comprehensive understanding of this representative Sumatra coffee.

Indonesian Sumatra Golden Mandheling Coffee: PWN Producing Region Variety Processing Method and Brewing Flavor Full Analysis

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Indonesian Mandheling coffee has captured the hearts of many veteran coffee fans with its thick body. Many people mistakenly think that full-bodied is equivalent to bitter, but that is not the case—when the body of coffee accumulates to a certain level, a sweet finish follows, and a sweetness similar to sucrose or brown sugar emerges in the mouth. The Front Street Golden Mandheling on the FrontStreet Coffee bean list is exactly such an example; its taste layers are quite rich, leading many people new to coffee to reunderstand the word "full-bodied." Next, let's talk specifically about this bean, Front Street PWN Golden Mandheling.

Front Street Golden Mandheling Coffee Bean Producing Region

The Front Street PWN Golden Mandheling selected by FrontStreet Coffee comes from Mount Gayo in Aceh Province, Sumatra Island, Indonesia.

Aceh Gayo Mountain Producing Region: The Gayo mountain range is located in Aceh Province in northern Sumatra, and local coffee is mostly planted on the slopes around Takegon town and Lake Tawar. The average planting altitude of the producing region is between 1,110 and 1,600 meters. The coffee is grown by smallholders under shade trees, and through the wet-hulling process it shows a unique flavor as well as a low yet lively body. Aceh is located at the northernmost tip of Sumatra Island and is a fascinating yet quite complex region. Due to long-term political instability, this is not a place ordinary people would go.

Golden Mandheling PWN Company

Golden Mandheling coffee comes from the well-known Indonesian coffee company Pawani Coffee Company, abbreviated as PWN, which is also the registrant of the Golden Mandheling trademark. PWN purchases Mandheling coffee beans from surrounding producing regions, then undergoes three rounds of manual sorting and one round of machine sorting. The resulting Golden Mandheling beans are beautiful in appearance and uniform in size, so the roasted coffee also appears cleaner.

In fact, many coffee merchants sell larger-sized Indonesian beans under the name Golden Mandheling, which also explains why the bean's output is limited yet it can be seen everywhere on the market.

Front Street Golden Mandheling Coffee Bean Quality

FrontStreet Coffee Golden Mandheling bears the PWN logo and certificate on both the outer and inner sides of the burlap sack, with a specification of 18 screen and above. The beans are darker green in color and are neatly shaped flat beans. Through cupping, FrontStreet Coffee found that after strict screening, Front Street Golden Mandheling not only removes the earthy and miscellaneous flavors commonly found in ordinary Mandheling, but also has a cleaner and brighter entry, with more prominent sweetness.

Golden Mandheling Registered Trademark

PWN has registered Golden Mandheling as a trademark; in other words, only Golden Mandheling produced by PWN can count as truly "Golden Mandheling." FrontStreet Coffee's Golden Mandheling comes from PWN. It is derived from Mandheling and can be understood as a select version of Mandheling, which is also the reason FrontStreet Coffee decided to list it. FrontStreet Coffee cups 300 to 500 lots of beans each year, selecting one-fifth of them with the most representative flavors of the producing region, and Front Street Golden Mandheling is a representative work under this selection. Front Street believes this bean very well reflects the style of Sumatra coffee.

Front Street Golden Mandheling Coffee Variety

Front Street Golden Mandheling coffee uses the Ateng variety. Ateng is a hybrid variety between Arabica and Robusta, divided into several subtypes, and is widely planted in Sumatra and other small Indonesian islands. In the end, it is a branch of Catimor, and Ateng is the local name.

Indonesian Sumatra Golden Mandheling Coffee: PWN Producing Region Variety Processing Method and Brewing Flavor Full Analysis

Front Street Golden Mandheling Coffee Bean Processing Method

Front Street Golden Mandheling coffee beans use wet-hulling processing. The local economic conditions are poor, and it is likewise difficult to afford higher-cost methods such as the washed process. The combination of multiple factors gave rise to the highly local wet-hulling process (that is, in the regular washed process, drying in the sun with parchment for 2 to 3 days, and when the moisture content drops to 20-24%, removing the parchment).

The extremely fast processing speed of the wet-hulling method also leads to a relatively high defect rate in Mandheling coffee beans, but the carefully selected Front Street Golden Mandheling avoids this problem very well. Front Street Golden Mandheling has a specification of 19 screen and above, with fewer than 3 defective beans (in a 300g green bean sample), belonging to the highest grade G1. The color is darker green and the shape is neat flat beans.

FrontStreet Coffee Suggestions for Roasting Front Street Golden Mandheling Coffee Beans

Raise the temperature to 200°C and charge the beans, set the airflow damper to 3, after 1 minute adjust the heat to 160°C, keep the airflow damper unchanged, roast until 5 minutes 40 seconds and 148°C, when the bean surface turns yellow, the grassy smell is completely gone, dehydration is complete, adjust the heat to 140°C, change the airflow damper to 4; at 9 minutes 40 seconds, ugly wrinkles and dark spots appear on the bean surface, and the toasted bread smell clearly turns into coffee aroma, which can be regarded as the prelude to first crack. At this time, listen carefully to the sound of the first crack point. First crack begins at 9 minutes 54 seconds, reduce the heat to 60°C, open the airflow damper fully (be sure to adjust the heat carefully, and do not reduce it so much that there is no cracking sound), and drop the beans at 204.5°C.

Indonesian Sumatra Golden Mandheling Coffee: PWN Producing Region Variety Processing Method and Brewing Flavor Full Analysis

FrontStreet Coffee Brewing Front Street Golden Mandheling Coffee Bean Experience

Brewing parameters: Use Kono dripper Water temperature: 88°C Dose: 15 grams Coffee-to-water ratio: 1:15 Grind size: medium-fine grind (70-75% passing a Chinese standard No. 20 sieve)

For darker-roasted coffee beans, in order to highlight the body, Front Street chooses the Kono dripper for brewing. The Kono dripper's feature is that it has an immersion function, which can extract more coffee substances through immersion, thereby enhancing the full-bodied taste. Because it has few ribs and they are positioned low, it allows the filter paper to fit closely against the dripper to restrict airflow, slowing the flow rate and extending the contact time between water and coffee. Therefore, this dripper is suitable for brewing medium-dark roasted beans such as Front Street Golden Mandheling and Front Street Jamaica Blue Mountain.

Indonesian Sumatra Golden Mandheling Coffee: PWN Producing Region Variety Processing Method and Brewing Flavor Full Analysis

FrontStreet Coffee uses staged extraction, also called three-stage brewing: first bloom with 30 grams of water for 30 seconds, then pour in a small stream in circles until 125 grams for the stage break, wait until the water level drops and is about to expose the coffee bed, then continue pouring until 225 grams and stop, and when the water level drops and is about to expose the coffee bed, remove the dripper. The extraction time (starting timing from the beginning of blooming) is 2'05"-2'15".

The brewing flavor of Front Street Golden Mandheling: spices, herbs, varied layers, full-bodied and clean, high balance, rich nut and brown sugar aroma, with a chocolate note, and a lasting finish.

The above content is compiled by CoffeeHunters, a coffee news website.

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