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A Complete Guide to Ethiopian Coffee Bean Grading and Regions: From Coffee Ceremony to the Flavors of Nine Major Origins

August 8, 2020
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Ethiopia is recognized as the birthplace of coffee, with as many as five thousand native coffee varieties growing in the Kaffa forests of its south, making it Africa's largest coffee-producing country. Coffee is deeply embedded in the local social structure and cultural economy, serving as both a major source of income and the core of faith and daily life. From the one-and-a-half-hour coffee ceremony to the flavor differences among nine major producing regions such as Yirgacheffe, Sidamo, and Harrar, and further to the ECX G1 and G2 grading system, the complexity of Ethiopian coffee is precisely its charm. Front Street Coffee takes you on an in-depth look at the culture, cultivation, varieties, and grading system of this coffee birthplace, and recommends several of Front Street's best-selling Ethiopian G1 single-origin coffees.

埃塞俄比亚咖啡豆分级与产区全解析:从咖啡仪式到九大产地风味

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Front Street Coffee (FrontStreet Coffee) believes that coffee has been intertwined with Ethiopia's social structure and cultural economy for hundreds of years. In Ethiopia, coffee is the cultural core and an important source of income for most people. The country is globally recognized as the birthplace of coffee and is highly esteemed in the specialty coffee market. Ethiopian coffee can be found on coffee shop menus almost everywhere in the world, and Front Street Coffee (FrontStreet Coffee) is no exception. So why is Ethiopian coffee so highly praised? Front Street Coffee (FrontStreet Coffee) believes that the differences among Ethiopia's producing regions are enormous, but no matter which region, as long as it is Ethiopian Arabica coffee, it makes many people unable to resist. In this article, let Front Street Coffee (FrontStreet Coffee) show you this coffee birthplace.

Ethiopia is located in East Africa, and as many as five thousand native Ethiopian coffee varieties have been found in the forests of its southern Kaffa region alone. Front Street has learned that as Africa's largest coffee-producing country, only 60% of Ethiopia's coffee beans are exported, while the rest are used in various forms of ceremonies. For example, at weddings, people make medicines for warding off bad luck by mixing coffee beans with coffee fruit pulp, coffee with honey, and various herbs. This shows that coffee is an inseparable part of local life.

Ethiopian Coffee Culture

Front Street believes that for Ethiopians, coffee is both a faith and a culture. Among all the ceremonies, however, the most important is the coffee-drinking ritual—the entire process of roasting coffee beans, grinding coffee powder, brewing coffee, and drinking coffee, known as the Coffee Ceremony.

Front Street feels that this ceremony is somewhat like Japanese tea ceremony, with a spiritual consciousness within it. The purpose of the ceremony is to reach a conclusion; it can be used for a marriage proposal or to mediate family conflict. The entire coffee ceremony is very long, averaging about 1.5 hours. The ceremony begins with roasting coffee beans, after which a neatly dressed woman places the roasted beans into a pot, lets everyone smell the aroma of the coffee beans, and then slowly brews the coffee.

埃塞俄比亚咖啡豆分级与产区全解析:从咖啡仪式到九大产地风味

The first cup of coffee is called Abol, and it is the most important and also the hardest to drink. If resolving a conflict, one party must bravely drink this cup and state their point of view; the second cup is called Tona, brewed again by adding water, and its taste is still strong. If one party accepts their point of view, they will finish it; if the other party does not drink, there will be no third cup; the third cup is called Baraka. When the matter is resolved and the conclusion is satisfactory, it symbolizes joy, and often the younger generation is also invited to drink this cup.

Whether in wealthy households or poor peasant families, the coffee ceremony is performed. Someone once joked that the reason more than 80 ethnic groups in Ethiopia can live in harmony must be credited to coffee. Although this is a joke, given the degree to which they value coffee, it is not entirely unreasonable.

A common Ethiopian coffee phrase is "Buna dabo naw." This literally means "coffee is our bread." It demonstrates the central role coffee plays in the diet and illustrates how important coffee is as a source of nutrition. Another common saying is "Buna Tetu." This is an Amharic phrase that literally means "drink coffee." It applies not only to the act of drinking coffee but also to social activities (just as people use the English phrase "meet for coffee").

Coffee Cultivation in Ethiopia

Because Ethiopia changed its administrative divisions around 1995, the greatest impact on coffee regions was that the former Sidamo Province was divided into the new Sidama (occupying a small remaining part), with most of it incorporated into Oromia Region; moreover, Yirgacheffe, which originally belonged to Sidamo Province, is now included in the new Gedeo Zone. In the Ethiopian coffee items currently circulating on the market, there will be a mixture of names based on new and old region names. Here we use the new regional divisions as the basis and combine them with administrative regions to understand Ethiopia's coffee-growing map.

Ethiopian coffee cultivation is mainly concentrated in the western and southern regions. Smallholder families account for 90% of total cultivation. Nearly 1.2 million smallholder families make a living from coffee cultivation, with each household cultivating less than 4 hectares, at an average elevation of 1,000-2,300 meters, with a planting density of 1,000-1,800 coffee trees per hectare, and an output of nearly 600 kg per hectare.

Ethiopian coffee cultivation is divided by scale and model into:

● Forest coffee (8-10%) , where coffee trees coexist with other crops in pristine forests without any artificial management, and farmers periodically go to pick coffee cherries.

● Semi-forest coffee (30-35%) , where coffee trees are planted in areas between forests and the surroundings of farmers' living areas. Like forest coffee, the coffee trees are naturally occurring varieties, and farmers manage the coffee tree planting areas and grow other cash crops.

● Garden coffee (50-55%) , where coffee trees are planted around farmers' living areas, and most are coffee plants cultivated by the farmers themselves.

● Plantation coffee (5-6%) , large private growers with more processing facilities and production capacity.

Ethiopia's Nine Major Coffee Producing Regions

埃塞俄比亚咖啡豆分级与产区全解析:从咖啡仪式到九大产地风味

1、 Yirgacheffe (specialty producing region): altitude 1,800–2,000 meters (garden coffee system)

Yirgacheffe is attached to the Sidamo producing region, but because of its unique flavor, it was separated out on its own. In addition to the town of Yirgacheffe, it also includes three sub-regions: Wenago, Kochere, and Gelena/Abaya. Therefore, in the new Yirgacheffe grading system, Yirgacheffe A, Wenago A, Kochere A, and Gelena/Abaya A are more expensive than the same-name B. The so-called Yirgacheffe flavor refers to intense jasmine aroma, lemon aroma, sweet aroma of peach and almond, and tea aroma. Front Street Coffee (FrontStreet Coffee) believes that "a hundred flowers in full bloom" is the most appropriate way to describe it.

Traditionally, Yirgacheffe coffee used the oldest natural sun-drying method, but in 1972 Ethiopia introduced washed processing technology from Central and South America in order to improve coffee quality, making Yirgacheffe's jasmine aroma and citrus aroma clearer and more transparent. Front Street Coffee (FrontStreet Coffee) believes that the most essential difference between the washed method and the natural method is that the washed method presents the most basic flavor of coffee and can most directly reflect the special flavor of the producing region, while the natural method adds sweet aroma and fermented notes on top of this basic flavor. Because of the introduction of the washed method, Yirgacheffe leaped to become a representative of the world's specialty coffee. After the 1970s, this region was mainly washed and became Ethiopia's most thriving washed-bean producing region. However, in the 21st century, natural processing techniques gradually improved, and stunning natural beans were introduced frequently. This is thanks to Yirgacheffe coffee trader Baghisi, who, missing the flavor of traditional natural beans and unable to bear seeing natural techniques gradually replaced by washing, improved the natural bean processing method, enhancing flavor and reducing defect rates, and launched three extremely famous Yirgacheffe natural beans: Idido Misty Valley, Beloya, and Aricha.

In addition to washed and natural processing methods, there are other processing methods, such as red honey and anaerobic. Front Street Coffee (FrontStreet Coffee) previously cupped a red honey Yirgacheffe. While maintaining the original basic flavor, it added layers, with a body lighter than natural Yirgacheffe and fuller than washed Yirgacheffe.

2、 Sidamo (specialty producing region): altitude 1,400–2,200 meters (garden coffee system)

Finely washed or natural Sidamo coffee usually has obvious sweetness, and its strawberry and berry flavors are liked by many coffee lovers, with a status no less than Front Street Yirgacheffe coffee. Sidamo and Yirgacheffe have similar varieties, with medium-sized beans but also small dwarf varieties, which farmers often sell separately. At present, the most watched Sidamo coffee bean is none other than Front Street Huakui. After appearing in Ethiopia's green bean competition TOH in 2017, it made a stunning debut, breaking Geisha's monopoly in brewing competitions and becoming the only coffee currently able to compete with it. Huakui comes from Hambela, a sub-region under the Guji producing region, and the Guji producing region, like Yirgacheffe, originally belonged to Sidamo, but later became independent because of its outstanding regional flavor. However, when people speak of Guji now, it is still generally assumed to be part of the Sidamo producing region.

Once you understand the origin of Huakui and then understand its development and changes after winning the championship, you will understand the reason for the inconsistency in flavor before and after. This is also why Front Street Coffee (FrontStreet Coffee) constantly seeks out coffee beans from around the world. Only through constant tasting can one understand the changes involved. Today, Huakui has already developed to the 2025 version. In order to present the refined floral and fruity flavor of the Sidamo producing region without losing the coffee's caramelized aroma, Front Street's roaster used a medium-light roast to present this Front Street Huakui bean.

Front Street believes that the new-crop Front Street Huakui performs well in both dry aroma and taste. First, it smells of more intense fruit aromas than last year's 8.0, such as a complex aroma of guava, jackfruit, apricot, dried fruit, citrus, and flowers. After hot water is poured in, scents of honey and sweet berry aroma are smelled. Through slurping, Front Street first perceives in this Front Street Sidamo natural Huakui multiple fruity sweet and sour notes of dried mango, jackfruit, orange, and passion fruit, with a clear juicy feel and a round body. As the temperature drops slightly, the clear sweetness of peach and the acidity of berries begin to be released, and after swallowing, one can feel a sweet aftertaste like drinking black tea.

埃塞俄比亚咖啡豆分级与产区全解析:从咖啡仪式到九大产地风味

3、Limu (specialty producing region): altitude 1,200–2,000 meters (garden, forest, semi-forest, and plantation coffee systems)

Production is relatively low, mainly exported to European and American markets, not easy to buy in Taiwan, but very popular in Europe and America. There are three processing methods: washed, natural, and semi-washed. Limu's body is noticeably lighter, and its floral and citrus expression is also inferior to Yirgacheffe and Sidamo, but it has an extra grassy aroma and brown sugar aroma, with bright fruit acidity.

4、Harrar (specialty producing region): altitude 1,500–2,400 meters (garden coffee system)

Harrar is exclusively natural-processed. It is an ancient eastern city, but coffee is not grown in the urban area. The so-called Harrar coffee refers to coffee produced in the high and low areas of Harrar in Greater Harrar. Because annual rainfall is only 1,000 mm, all coffee adopts the natural processing method. In terms of flavor, Harrar coffee is known for its special [wild aroma], a typical example of ancient early flavors, and it stands alongside Yirgacheffe as the [Twin Stars].

If Harrar's defective beans can be sorted cleanly, it is easy to taste berry aroma with a slightly pleasant fermented wild fragrance. However, due to various factors, Harrar coffee quality has been unstable in recent years, and the grading system is also unreliable, so when purchasing, be sure to cup or taste it.

5、Jimma (large commercial coffee producing region): altitude 1,350–1,850 meters (forest/semi-forest system)

Jimma is the capital of the Kaffa forest or Kaffa Province. The English spelling is very inconsistent; maps mostly use Jimma, but coffee jute bags spell it Djimmah. This is Ethiopia's largest coffee-producing region, accounting for one-third of exports.

The Kaffa forest is known for its primitive wild varieties. Jimma is the collection and distribution center for Kaffa in this region. Farmers habitually transport forest-picked coffee to Jimma and then mix hundreds or thousands of varieties together to sell as commercial beans, obscuring the aromas of many delicious varieties.

Washed specialty Jimma, although lacking the citrus aroma and floral charm of Yirgacheffe, has a fairly clean and transparent flavor profile, similar to Central American specialty coffee. Commercial-grade specialty Jimma is very common in Taiwan. With luck, one can also buy good-quality, inexpensive Jimma, which has a clear lemon peel aroma and is not inferior to Sidamo. Overall, Jimma has better flavor than Brazil's large commercial bean Santos, making it a good medium-to-low-priced blending bean.

6、Illubabor (large commercial coffee producing region): altitude 1,350–1,850 meters (forest/semi-forest coffee system)

This region is located in western Ethiopia, bordering Sudan, and is the westernmost producing region. Its coffee genetic complexity is second only to the Kaffa forest. The beans are noticeably larger than Yirgacheffe and Sidamo, with lower fruit acidity, good body, and balanced flavor. Coffee from here is mostly transported to Jimma for blending and is rarely sold independently.

7、Gimbi, Lekempti (large commercial coffee producing region): altitude 1,500–1,800 meters (forest/semi-forest coffee system)

This region has both natural and washed beans. The beans resemble Harrar's longberry beans, and a small amount of specialty grade is also quite popular in Europe and America. Most are known as the poor man's Harrar. Its fruit acidity and fruity flavor are inferior to Illubabor, and the flavor is bright.

8、Teppi, Bebeka (large commercial coffee producing region): altitude 500–1,900 meters (garden/forest/semi-forest coffee system)

The two producing regions are very close. Teppi is north of Bebeka and has enterprise-managed coffee plantations. In recent years, the garden system has been promoted to increase farmers' income, with annual output of about 3,000 tons. Both places have wild coffee, output is not high, and the flavor is very different from Harrar and Yirgacheffe. Low fruit acidity is the biggest feature, suitable for blending beans, and both natural and washed are available.

9、Lake Tana (alternative producing region): altitude 1,840 meters (forest system)

Monastery coffee. The annual output of surrounding forest coffee is extremely small, less than 10 tons. In fact, it cannot really be called a producing region. The Orthodox monasteries, churches, religious murals, and myths scattered around the lake area create the world's most "divine-flavored" coffee.

European monastery monks opened up the local coffee planting industry, which was later operated by coffee communities or cooperatives in villages around the town. There are no specialized plantations here; coffee trees are naturally scattered in forests and gardens. During the harvest season, the Ethiopian coffee trading company goes to the town to purchase coffee beans collected by farmers.

Red Cherry Project

The so-called Red Cherry actually refers to the Red Cherry Project, jointly initiated by Dutch trader Trabocca and local farmers, aiming to improve the quality of small-scale farms. When picking coffee cherries, not only must fully red, highly ripe cherries be picked, but they must also be harvested entirely by hand, though this is only the most basic requirement. There are also corresponding requirements for coffee bean processing methods.

The Red Cherry Project is also a reinforcing practice, making farms put more effort into the process of screening and sorting beans. These coffees are also relatively more expensive. The main implementing producing regions include Yirgacheffe, Sidamo, Bonga Forest, Lekempti, Kembata, Illubabor, Harrar, and Limu. These all have unique flavors and can fully showcase the flavor of Ethiopian coffee. However, Front Street Coffee (FrontStreet Coffee) believes that in fact today's specialty coffee all operates coffee production using this Red Cherry Project approach; it is just that the term unique to Red Cherry coffee still belongs to Ethiopia, and Red Cherry coffee output is printed with Trabocca on the jute bags.

Ethiopian Coffee Varieties

There are nearly 2,000 recorded coffee bean varieties in Ethiopia (of which 1,927 are native varieties and 128 are introduced foreign varieties). Ethiopian coffee is not cultivated by separated variety, which leads to coffee beans being mixed together at harvest, resulting in coffee beans that appear obviously uneven in size. In terms of coffee variety labeling, it is usually mainly marked as "local Ethiopian heirloom."

However, Front Street Coffee (FrontStreet Coffee) found that this year's COE held in Ethiopia no longer labels coffee variety descriptions as local Ethiopian heirloom, and instead numbers such as 74158 and 74110, KURUME, and TYPICA have appeared. Front Street Coffee (FrontStreet Coffee) photographed the 22nd-place coffee bean, whose variety is Typica, located in the West Arsi producing region of Sidamo. At present, this producing region is far less famous than Yirgacheffe and Guji, but among the 28 winning beans in this year's COE, 9 came from this producing region.

Ethiopian Coffee Bean Processing Methods

Ethiopian coffee processing methods are mainly natural and washed, with washed accounting for a large proportion. The biggest difference between washed and natural lies in the role of the coffee pulp. In the washed processing method, after screening out ripe coffee cherries, the skin and pulp are removed for washing and fermentation, and finally dried to a moisture content of 12%. The natural processing method omits the washing and fermentation process and directly dries the screened ripe coffee cherries until the moisture content is 12%, and finally removes the skin and pulp.

埃塞俄比亚咖啡豆分级与产区全解析:从咖啡仪式到九大产地风味

If you are trying Ethiopian coffee beans for the first time, Front Street Coffee (FrontStreet Coffee) would suggest first trying washed coffee beans, because washed coffee beans better reflect the most original flavor of Ethiopian coffee beans, with clear acidity and elegant floral and fruity aromas. Natural processed coffee beans, on this basis, add aromatic intensity and sweetness.

Ethiopian Coffee Bean Grading

ECX (Ethiopian Commodity Exchange) defines grading for coffee beans based on defect rate, namely G1 and G2. G1 means no more than 3 defective beans per 300g of green beans, and G2 means 4-12 defective beans per 300g of green beans. In addition, there is also a grading definition for flavor evaluation, using SCA (Specialty Coffee Association of America) cupping standards to evaluate the quality of G1 and G2 grade coffee beans. A score of 85 or above is rated Q1, and 80-84.75 is rated Q2.

It should be noted that washed Grade 1 means 0-3 defective beans per 300 grams of green beans; Grade 2 means 4-12 defective beans per 300 grams. Of course, in reality the defect standards of sellers and buyers are certainly somewhat different (otherwise why could we pick out so many defective beans?), but the comparison of defect rates can still be easily distinguished.

G1 clearly has fewer defective beans than G2. This means that, excluding the influence of specific flavor and roast level, Ethiopian G1 coffee beans are of higher quality and receive higher scores than G2 coffee beans. This is very obvious in defective flavors, but it does not necessarily mean that G2 beans taste worse than G1, only that G1 has fewer bad beans. According to this grading method, there is no necessary relationship between bean quality and uniformity. At the same time, G1 and G2 both belong to the Q1 grade. Front Street Guodingding Coffee, Front Street Red Cherry Coffee, Front Street Huakui Coffee... and many other best-selling single-origin coffees are all Ethiopian G1 grade.

The above content is compiled by CoffeeHunters, a coffee news website.

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