How Do Esmeralda and Gesha Village Grade Geisha Coffee?

Panama's Hacienda La Esmeralda and Ethiopia's Gesha Village Estate both built their reputations on Geisha coffee, but their grading systems differ. Esmeralda divides Geisha into Auction, Red Label, and Green Label. Gesha Village uses Auction, Gold Label, Red Label, Green Label, and Chaka lots, and the Red Label tier means different things at each estate.

The variety was first found in 1931 in Ethiopia's Geisha forest, sent to Kenya, then carried to Uganda and Tanzania in 1936, Costa Rica in 1953, and Panama only in 1970. Esmeralda separated it in 2003 and won the BOP competition in 2004. That history explains why one coffee grading system can label the same variety so differently.

Geisha coffee beans rose to fame after Panama's Hacienda La Esmeralda won the BOP competition in 2004, and today Ethiopia's Gesha Village Estate has also become a focal point in the specialty coffee world. Although both estates are renowned for the Geisha variety, their grading systems are quite different. Hacienda La Esmeralda divides Geisha into three grades: Auction, Red Label, and Green Label, while Gesha Village Estate has Auction, Gold Label, Red Label, Green Label, and Chaka lots. This article will systematically review the Geisha grading standards of these two major estates, provide an in-depth analysis of the meaning and distinctions of Red Label Geisha, and introduce related product information recommended by Front Street Coffee, helping coffee enthusiasts fully understand the Geisha coffee grading system and flavor characteristics.

Behind Geisha coffee beans lies a rather legendary history. It gained fame because of Panama's Hacienda La Esmeralda, and after winning the competition in 2004 it rose rapidly. Today, more and more producing regions have begun cultivating this variety. Front Street Coffee has always believed that the estate that best interprets the essence of Geisha flavor is still Panama's Hacienda La Esmeralda. Therefore, when recommending to guests trying Geisha for the first time, Front Street gives priority to Esmeralda's Red Label or Green Label.

If Hacienda La Esmeralda is synonymous with Panamanian Geisha, then Gesha Village Estate is undoubtedly the symbol of Ethiopian Geisha. So what exactly are the differences between Hacienda La Esmeralda's Geisha and Gesha Village's Red Label, and by what standards are their respective grades divided?

The Geisha variety was first discovered in 1931 in the Geisha forest of Ethiopia, then sent to the Kenya Coffee Research Institute. In 1936 it was introduced to Uganda and Tanzania, in 1953 to Costa Rica, and only in 1970 did it arrive in Panama. At first Geisha did not attract much attention, until Panama Geisha Hacienda La Esmeralda separated it from other varieties in 2003 and won the BOP competition in 2004, after which the Geisha variety truly entered the public eye.

Although the flavor of the Geisha variety is exquisite and enchanting, the formation of this elegant trait depends on specific growing conditions. Geisha is extremely demanding about its growing environment, requiring high-altitude planting areas, cloud cover or extensive shade tree coverage, and fertile soil. Geisha coffee grown at high altitudes has pronounced floral aromas and refined, elegant fruit acidity, and it is precisely this enchanting flavor that has made it popular worldwide.

Panama Hacienda La Esmeralda's Geisha coffee beans are divided into three grades: Auction, Red Label, and Green Label (Blue Label has been discontinued). Hacienda La Esmeralda is extremely meticulous in dividing its Geisha plots, mainly including three plots: Jaramillo, Caas Verdes, and El Velo. Each plot is further subdivided into smaller plots. High-quality Geisha mainly comes from the two plots Jaramillo and Caas Verdess.

Auction and Red Label

Esmeralda Special, commonly known as Red Label, is Hacienda La Esmeralda's representative high-end Geisha apart from the Auction lots. The Geisha in this lot is grown at altitudes above 1,600 meters, with cupping scores of no less than 91 points. Each micro-lot comes with detailed traceability information, covering plot, altitude, latitude and longitude, tree age, harvest time, processing method, and more. For example, the latest Esmeralda Red Label lot that Front Street acquired was selected from the Sugarcane plot. The fruit was harvested on February 13 this year and underwent 25 days of slow sun-drying, bringing rich aromas to the coffee and presenting flavors of jasmine, cranberry, passion fruit, citrus, and cinnamon.

In Hacienda La Esmeralda's own independent auction, only the Geisha lots selected from the divided plots to participate in the auction belong to Auction Red Label. However, non-auction Red Label also circulates on the market; in fact, it is Geisha selected from the same plots that did not participate in the auction and released to the market. The variety quality is the same, and the difference lies only in the selling price. Geisha of this grade uses sun-dried or washed processing methods, and its flavor has special, bright floral and citrus aromas.

Green Label Geisha

Private Collection, commonly known as Green Label, once existed as Geisha lots that did not participate in auctions but were of excellent quality. Green Label is harvested from a blend of Geisha from different plots within the two main estates at altitudes of 1,600 to 1,800 meters. With its classic orange aroma and honeyed charm, it has become the first choice for many Geisha enthusiasts with limited budgets. Since 2022, Hacienda La Esmeralda has begun labeling this grade of Geisha with the specific sub-estate it comes from. According to information published on Hacienda La Esmeralda's official website, Green Label Geisha from different plots will show unique main flavor directions due to terroir differences. Green Label from the Jaramillo plot has intense jasmine and rose aromas; Green Label from Caas Verdes has a richer tropical fruit mouthfeel; and Green Label from the El Velo estate presents lemongrass and floral notes.

Blue Label Geisha

The brand Geisha 1500 is what we commonly know as Blue Label Geisha. It uses a blend of beans from altitudes of 1,400 to 1,500 meters from three different plots: Jaramillo, Caas Verdess, and El Velo. Its flavor is mainly subtle floral notes, fruit acidity, and melon-like sweetness, with a relatively thin mouthfeel. Because Hacienda La Esmeralda wanted to elevate its brand positioning, it discontinued the Blue Label Geisha lots between 2019 and 2022, and subsequently sold the Geisha coffee from that area to a brand owner. That brand owner launched "Las Rocas," also known as Volcanic Rock Geisha coffee beans, which is what we know as Blue Label.

Gesha Village Estate

Gesha Village Estate is located in the Bench Maji region of Ethiopia, with a total area of 471 hectares, of which 320 hectares are planted with coffee. The estate is at an altitude above 1,900 meters. The high-altitude environment slows the growth of coffee trees, allowing the coffee fruit more time to accumulate nutrients. Gesha Village Estate is divided into 8 plots, each planted with a single variety. Therefore, at Gesha Village Estate, a single-plot lot also means a single variety.

Gesha Village Estate grows three varieties in total: Gori Gesha, Gesha 1931, and Illubabor Forest. The first two are both Geisha varieties, while Illubabor Forest is a disease-resistant variety provided by the Ethiopian research institute. Gesha Village Estate implements a strict internal grading system, in order: Auction, Gold Label, Red Label, Green Label, and Chaka lots.

Gesha Village's coffee beans have rich flavor layers and extremely limited production, and are often chosen by baristas participating in international competitions. While maintaining the local ecological environment, the estate has also established good cooperative relations with local residents. To further give back to the local community, the estate established the Gesha Village Foundation, promoting educational development through two schools near the estate. Auction Lot

Accounting for only 3.7% of Gesha Village's annual production, it is the estate's top lot after rigorous screening and can only be obtained through the 2018 Gesha Village Coffee Estate global auction. The cupping scores of the 2018 auction lots were 88.15 to 92.67 points, and they are further divided into Champion's Reserve and Farm Reserve. For example, Gesha Village 2018 Auction Lot RSV.6 belongs to the auction lots.

Gold Label green beans

Gold Label roasted beans

Gold Label lot

Similar to the different grades of Geisha at Hacienda La Esmeralda, Gesha Village Estate's Gold Label Geisha also has its own English name "Rarities," meaning "rare treasures." In short, it is the highest-grade Geisha launched by Gesha Village (non-auction lots). The "Gold" in Gold Label also comes from the background color of the product trademark. According to information disclosed on Gesha Village's official website, this grade of Geisha coffee accounts for only 10% of the estate's total production. Like Hacienda La Esmeralda's Red Label, each lot comes with plot information for buyers' reference.

The variety name of Gesha Village Gold Label Geisha is "Gesha 1931." Gesha Village's variety selection work was led by Willem Boot. Because genetic comparison technology was lacking at the time, the estate owner Adam, by referencing the plant appearance and flavor performance of Panamanian Geisha, selected two Geisha varieties from the vast Gesha area. One of them had a flavor extremely similar to Hacienda La Esmeralda's Geisha, so it was named "Gesha 1931," signifying the year 1931 when Geisha was discovered.

Red Label lot

Red Label lot coffee beans account for about 15% of Gesha Village Estate's annual production. They are lots with complete traceability and cupping scores above 88 points (SCA standard), presenting typical Gesha Village flavor. The flavor intensity and complexity are slightly weaker than Gold Label lots, making them a very cost-effective single-origin lot. The Gesha Village Red Label on Front Street's bean list belongs to the Gori Gesha variety, discovered by estate owner Adam in the nearby Gori forest. Because he felt it resembled the Geisha plant in appearance, he brought it back to the estate to cultivate and named it Gori Gesha. Therefore, compared with Hacienda La Esmeralda's T2722, it is closer to the native Ethiopian Geisha variety.

Green Label lot

Green Label lots come from a single plot and a single variety at Gesha Village Estate. Each lot number provided by Green Label has complete traceability information, including the farm plot name, coffee variety, and processing date.

CHAKA lot

The Chaka lot blends coffee from all plots of the estate and the entire production season. Chaka lot coffee has two processing methods, sun-dried and washed, and includes three coffee varieties from Gesha Village Estate: Gesha 1931, Gori Gesha, and Illubabor. Unlike other lots at Gesha Village Estate, CHAKA blends Geisha coffee beans from all plots of the estate and the full annual production season, covering the three Geisha varieties grown at Gesha Village: Gesha 1931, Gori Gesha, and Illubabor.

This coffee bean has two natural processing methods, washed and sun-dried. The lot Front Street acquired uses sun-dried processing. Through cupping, Front Street perceived that Gesha Village's CHAKA presents flavors of floral notes, citrus, berries, cream, oolong tea, and sugarcane.

The above content is compiled by CoffeeHunters, a coffee news website.