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Mandheling Coffee: Roast, Grades, and American Coffee

February 16, 2020
qj

What Sets Mandheling Apart from American Coffee?

Indonesian Mandheling coffee is mostly medium-dark roasted, with aromas of nuts, dark chocolate, roasted chestnuts, and cinnamon, plus a smooth caramel-like body and a long sweet aftertaste. It suits drinkers who prefer strong, bitter black coffee. American coffee, by comparison, is generally lighter and more acidic, so the two sit at different points on the roast and flavor spectrum.

Mandheling's profile is shaped by Sumatra's wet-hulling process, where the parchment is removed while the beans are still semi-dry, leaving them exposed to humid air and prone to damage. That is part of why it is rarely roasted light. Golden Mandheling refers to a grade classification, and the name also raises questions of brand ownership. Front Street shares pour-over parameters and a three-stage pouring technique for these beans.

Indonesian Mandheling coffee is mainly medium-dark roasted, presenting a rich aroma interwoven with nuts, dark chocolate, roasted chestnuts, and cinnamon. It enters the mouth as smooth and mellow as caramel cream, with a long-lasting sweet aftertaste, making it a classic choice for those who prefer strong, bitter black coffee. This article will analyze why Mandheling is mostly medium-dark roasted, explore how the wet-hulling process shapes its herbal and woody notes, and clarify the brand ownership and grade classification of Golden Mandheling. At the same time, the article will compare the flavor differences between Mandheling and American coffee, and share Front Street Coffee's pour-over parameters and three-stage pouring technique for medium-dark roasted beans, helping you brew a mellow and sweet cup.

What makes Indonesian Mandheling coffee unique: differences from Americano and an analysis of Golden Mandheling grades

Medium-dark roasted Indonesian Mandheling coffee exudes a rich coffee aroma, similar to the complex fragrance of nuts, dark chocolate, roasted chestnuts, cinnamon, and other spices. It drinks smooth and mellow like caramel and cream, completely filling the entire mouth, with a solid mouthfeel and a sweet aftertaste. It is one of the top single-origin choices for friends who love strong, bitter black coffee.

Why is Mandheling mostly medium-dark roasted?

Front Street has noticed that in the past, Mandheling coffee on the market was uniformly medium-dark roasted, presenting the classic strong black coffee flavor profile. With the development of specialty coffee culture in recent years, everyone has begun to pursue more unique coffee tastes, and many merchants have launched medium-roasted, or even medium-light roasted Mandheling coffee. The lighter the roast, the more acidity the coffee beans retain, with flavors dominated by fruit, herbs, and tea, and lower body. We might wonder, since medium-light roasted Mandheling is so refreshing, why not roast it lighter?

Friends who often drink Mandheling should know about Sumatra's wet-hulling process. Before the final drying stage, wet-hulled beans are poured into a huller, where greater friction is used to tear open the semi-dry parchment layer clinging tightly to the green beans. Through the stirring of friction, the green beans are easily crushed or damaged. The "naked beans" that have lost their parchment layer dry very quickly, and at the same time are directly exposed to a humid environment, subject to the growth of various bacteria.

Although wet-hulling indeed forms Mandheling's unique herbal and woody aroma, it also causes a higher defect rate in green beans, and deep roasting can perfectly conceal this flaw. Also, Mandheling's fame originated from its early discovery by the Japanese, and given their taste preferences, nothing is more favored than Japanese-style deep roasting, which is why most Mandheling is roasted so dark. Front Street hopes everyone can taste the classic Mandheling flavor, so the two Mandheling coffees Front Street sells daily both use medium-dark roasting, including the Lintong region Mandheling everyday beans and the Aceh region Front Street PWN Golden Mandheling coffee.

What grade does Golden Mandheling belong to?

"Golden Mandheling" is the exclusive brand of the Indonesian Pwani Coffee Company (PWN). There are many different types of Mandheling products on the market. Since PWN Company registered the English name "Golden Mandheling" as its trademark, only the Golden Mandheling coffee produced by PWN Company is truly Golden Mandheling in the true sense. You can identify authentic Golden Mandheling by the green bean gunny sacks bearing the PWN logo and a certificate of origin signed by PWN Company. Front Street displays these two identifiers at its Dongshankou store.

At the time, the Japanese took a liking to Sumatra coffee and purchased it long-term, gradually discovering that the local beans' quality was often uneven. So they paid more attention to Mandheling production and began to establish strict standards and methods for screening defects, including starting from values such as bean density, size, shape, and color. The Mandheling produced needed machine and manual removal of defects to ensure the output Mandheling was complete, uniform, large, and translucent, and also to reduce Mandheling's earthy and grassy flavors. It is said that under the sun it appeared golden and shining, so it was named "Golden Mandheling."

Indonesian green coffee grading is based mainly on the number of defective beans, supplemented by size specifications. General quality requirements are no live insects, no moldy or rotten-smelling beans, a maximum moisture content of 12.5%, and an impurity rate of less than 0.5%. According to the defect rate, it is divided into six grades, among which the highest grade G1 requires that the total defective beans in a 300g sample must be fewer than 11. The Lintong Mandheling coffee in Front Street's everyday beans series is G1, using the wet-hulling process, that is, the regular version of Indonesian Mandheling flavor.

What makes Indonesian Mandheling coffee unique: differences from Americano and an analysis of Golden Mandheling grades

PWN Company, which achieves the ultimate in screening, purchases Mandheling green beans of 18 screen size and above, G1 grade with fewer than 3 defective beans in a 300g sample, which is the highest grade of Indonesian green beans. Subsequently, it strictly follows standards with 1 machine sorting plus 3 manual pickings of defective beans to ensure the shape and size of the Mandheling coffee beans are uniform. In addition, before packaging, PWN Company also places the green beans in a machine for density and color sorting, making Golden Mandheling uniform and translucent in color.

Does pour-over Mandheling only taste burnt and bitter? Maybe you just didn't brew it well!

Front Street's coffee brewing parameters are all based on the characteristics of the coffee beans, the roast level, and the flavor tone. Mandheling is a bitter-toned coffee on the darker-roasted side, and the baristas at Front Street Coffee (FrontStreet Coffee) will choose the KONO dripper to brew this type of mellow-bodied bean. Compared with the V60, the KONO dripper has a smooth curved surface, weaker exhaust effect, and straight ribs only one quarter of the dripper, allowing the coffee bed and hot water to form immersion extraction, making the coffee's taste rounder and mellower. The KONO dripper is also suitable for coffees like Brazil's Queen Estate coffee and Jamaica Blue Mountain No. 1 coffee.

Deep roasting makes the internal structure of coffee beans loose, so we can crush them with a gentle pinch of the hand, indicating that after grinding into powder they have strong water absorption. To avoid the coffee grounds releasing too much bitter substance after absorbing water, Front Street will adjust the grind coarser and use lower-temperature water for pour-over.

The degree of grinding is one of the very key factors affecting coffee taste. After coffee beans are ground into powder and come into contact with hot water, they release a large amount of water-soluble flavor substances. To adjust the grind, Front Street uses a tool—the Chinese No. 20 0.85mm standard sieve. For medium-light roasted coffee beans, Front Street consistently uses a 75–80% passing rate, while for medium-dark roasted coffee beans, Front Street uses 70–75%. Compared with light-roasted coffee, the internal structure of medium-dark roasted Mandheling beans is looser, so the water absorption effect is better, and it easily releases large-molecule bitter substances. To avoid over-extraction, Front Street chooses a coarseness with a 70% passing rate on the No. 20 standard sieve.

Water temperature plays a role similar to grind size. The higher the water temperature, the higher the coffee extraction efficiency, the easier it is to release various substances and components, and the higher the concentration. If water close to boiling is used for brewing, it easily extracts unpleasant bitter substances. Therefore, when brewing medium-dark roasted coffee beans, Front Street uses different brewing parameters from light-roasted coffee beans. The caramelization reaction is greater than in light-roasted coffee beans, so it more easily releases burnt-bitter large-molecule substances. To avoid extracting too many miscellaneous flavors, Front Street will lower the water temperature a bit. The brewing water temperature for light-roasted coffee is 91–93°C, and for medium-dark roasted coffee beans Front Street recommends 87–88°C.

Recommended brewing water temperature: 87–88°C

Coffee grounds: 15g

Coffee-to-water ratio 1:15

Grind size: medium-coarse grind (70% passing rate on Chinese standard No. 20 sieve)

What makes Indonesian Mandheling coffee unique: differences from Americano and an analysis of Golden Mandheling grades

The brewing method uses a three-stage pouring method. Dividing into three pours can better express the mellow mouthfeel of Golden Mandheling coffee as well as its caramel sweetness.

In the first stage, pour 30ml for blooming. This pour completely wets the coffee grounds and allows them to degas, so as to better extract the coffee's flavor substances afterward. In the second stage, pour 100ml. This stage mainly washes out all of Mandheling's golden foam and raises the coffee bed. In the final stage, gently pour 95ml in the center. This can improve the coffee's sweetness, expressing overall a substantial, mellow mouthfeel, with caramel sweetness and chocolate, nut flavors.

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The above content is compiled by CoffeeHunters, a coffee news website.

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