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Golden Mandheling Coffee: What Makes Indonesian Coffee Special

May 6, 2019
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What makes Golden Mandheling coffee different from other Sumatra beans?

Golden Mandheling coffee is the trademarked label of Pwani Coffee Company (PWN), and only beans produced by PWN can carry the name. The lot is triple hand-sorted and marked Grade 1 with "Triple pick" on the jute bag, which reduces the defects and off-flavors common in Indonesian coffee while keeping Mandheling's herbal spice aroma and thick body.

Authenticity can be checked two ways: the green bean jute bag printed with the PWN logo and the certificate of origin signed by PWN. Indonesia's wet-hulled process, known locally as giling basah, removes the parchment while the green coffee bean is still moist, a step tied to Sumatra's damp climate and terroir that shapes the mellow, low-acid cup.

Indonesian coffee, with Mandheling's rich and mellow mouthfeel and unique herbal spice aroma, has become an undeniable presence in the world of specialty coffee. Among them, the Golden Mandheling produced by PWN is renowned as a representative of Indonesian specialty coffee thanks to triple hand-sorting and strict quality control. This article starts with Front Street PWN Golden Mandheling coffee, sorting out Indonesian coffee's green bean grading system, the causes and characteristics of the wet-hulled process, and how Sumatra's terroir shapes Mandheling's classic flavor, while also sharing brewing parameters and extraction suggestions for medium-dark roasted Mandheling, helping coffee lovers understand the uniqueness of Indonesian coffee more comprehensively.

What Makes Indonesian Coffee Special? Decoding the Flavor Secrets of Golden Mandheling and Wet-Hulled Processing

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The exclusive brand under PWN green bean company gives Mandheling coffee the name "Golden," making it a highly recognizable representative of Indonesian specialty coffee. Today Front Street will show everyone what makes Front Street PWN Golden Mandheling coffee unique.

Golden Mandheling in the truest sense

Among Front Street's regular bean lineup, there are two Indonesian Mandheling coffees to choose from, and the most popular is undoubtedly the repeatedly hand-sorted "Front Street PWN Golden Mandheling coffee." It retains Mandheling's signature herbal spice aroma and thick, full-bodied mouthfeel, while greatly reducing defects to lessen the off-flavors common in Indonesian coffee, with even better cleanliness.

"Golden Mandheling" is the exclusive brand of Pwani Coffee Company (PWN). There are many types of Mandheling products on the market, but because PWN has registered the English name "Golden Mandheling" as a trademark, only Golden Mandheling coffee produced by PWN can be considered true Golden Mandheling. There are two ways to identify authentic Golden Mandheling: first, check the green bean jute bag printed with the PWN logo; second, verify the certificate of origin signed by PWN. Front Street has displayed both of these marks at the Dongshankou store for everyone to view on site.

Observing the green bean jute bag of Golden Mandheling, you can see the words "Triple pick" and "GRADE 1," which indicates that this lot belongs to the highest grade of Indonesian green beans, and that after purchasing G1 grade green beans, PWN additionally performed three rounds of hand sorting.

The grading method for Indonesian green coffee beans mainly uses the number of defective beans as the primary basis, with size as a supplementary reference. Basic quality requirements include: no live insects, no moldy or rotten beans, maximum moisture content of 12.5%, and impurity rate below 0.5%. According to the defect rate, there are six grades in total, among which the highest grade G1 requires no more than 11 total defective beans in a 300-gram sample. The Lintong Mandheling coffee in Front Street's daily drinking series belongs to the G1 grade, originates from the Lintong production area of Sumatra, uses the wet-hulled process, and presents the classic Indonesian Mandheling flavor: dark chocolate, nuts, herbal spices, and caramel.

PWN has achieved the utmost in the sorting stage, subjecting G1 grade Mandheling to multiple rounds of strict selection, pressing the defect rate to the lowest level, removing off-flavors such as earthiness, and at the same time enhancing Mandheling's sweetness and cleanliness. In addition, before packaging, PWN also sends the green beans through a machine for density and color sorting, ensuring that the Golden Mandheling green beans produced are large, uniform, and bright in color.

Mandheling is also called Sumatra coffee

Coffee, like various fruits and vegetables, is an agricultural product. Its flavor is always closely connected to variety, climate, altitude, soil, management, and other factors, and is a true presentation of the variety and local terroir. What post-processing methods and roasting should do is preserve, restore, and present their most authentic flavors to the greatest extent possible. Mandheling's unique flavor is inseparable from the mysterious island of Sumatra.

Sumatra is divided into eight provinces in total, but only the high-altitude Aceh Province and North Sumatra Province cultivate Arabica coffee on a large scale. Sumatra belongs to a tropical rainforest region, and the mountain forests are shrouded in clouds and mist year-round, adding a layer of mystery to this land. Local coffee farmers plant coffee trees around two major volcanic lakes—Lake Tawar and Lake Toba. The Gayo Mountains around Lake Tawar have ideal conditions for coffee cultivation, widely adopting organic farming methods, and together with a long history of cultivation, the coffee produced here is superior in both quality and yield. Therefore, many green bean merchants place special importance on this production area, including the locally well-known Pwani Coffee Company (PWN).

What Makes Indonesian Coffee Special? Decoding the Flavor Secrets of Golden Mandheling and Wet-Hulled Processing

Semi-washed method—wet-hulled process

Friends who often drink Mandheling will certainly be familiar with the wet-hulled process. The wet-hulled process takes much less time than the washed process. Traditional washed processing requires 1 to 3 weeks, while the wet-hulled process needs only a few days to complete the entire workflow. The wet-hulled process first removes the skin and pulp of the coffee fruit, then after brief fermentation it is dried, and while the beans are semi-dry the parchment layer is removed, after which drying continues in the later stage. When the moisture content drops to 12%, it can be bagged, sorted, and graded.

The wet-hulled process may seem fast and time-saving, but without strict control, it is highly prone to moisture and mold in Indonesia's hot and humid environment. However, in addition to Sumatra, Sulawesi in Indonesia and Papua New Guinea also widely adopt this method. The reason is that Indonesia has a tropical rainforest climate, with air humidity as high as 70% to 90%, making it impossible to rely on long periods of sun drying to dry green beans, while the cost of washed processing is also relatively high. Out of necessity, coffee farmers developed this semi-washed processing method. Although the time for each step is greatly shortened, the green beans after removing the parchment layer still absorb moisture from the hot and humid air, so the Mandheling coffee produced has an extra deep, somber note of wood, herbs, and spices.

In order to present the classic Mandheling flavor, Front Street uses medium-dark roasting to erase Mandheling's excessive acidity and enhance its body and balance. During cupping, Front Street sensed that Golden Mandheling carries the aromas of spices, herbs, and pine wood, the rich, mellow bittersweet flavors of caramel, nuts, and pure dark chocolate, as well as a clear, sweet finish reminiscent of fruit and melon. It is layered, rich, and varied, mellow and clean, with excellent balance.

Flavor characteristics of medium-dark roasted Golden Mandheling coffee

Front Street's flavor descriptions for every coffee are based on freshly roasted beans. If coffee beans are stored for more than a month, the aroma has likely partially dissipated, and it is difficult to reproduce the original performance during brewing. Front Street deeply understands the importance of freshness, so it only ships coffee beans freshly roasted within 5 days, ensuring that everyone can enjoy the fullest peak flavor period upon receipt.

When brewing medium-dark roasted coffee beans, Front Street uses brewing parameters different from those for light-roasted beans, allowing the coffee to show a richer chocolate profile. Medium-dark roasted beans undergo a more complete caramelization reaction than light-roasted beans, making it easier to release bitter, caramelized large-molecule substances. In order to avoid extracting too many off-flavors, Front Street appropriately lowers the water temperature—the brewing water temperature for light-roasted coffee is 91 to 93°C, while for medium-dark roasted coffee beans Front Street recommends 87 to 88°C.

What Makes Indonesian Coffee Special? Decoding the Flavor Secrets of Golden Mandheling and Wet-Hulled Processing

The grind size is also adjusted coarser, paired with a Kono dripper for staged extraction. The Kono dripper has few ribs and they are located at the lower end; the filter paper clings tightly to the dripper wall, which can restrict airflow, prolong the contact time between water and coffee grounds, allow the coffee grounds to be fully extracted, and thereby enhance the mellow mouthfeel.

Dripper: Kono dripper Water temperature: 88°C Dose: 15 grams Coffee-to-water ratio: 1:15 Grind size: 70-75% passing through a No. 20 standard sieve

Front Street uses staged extraction: first bloom with 30 grams of water for 30 seconds, then pour in a small stream in circles until reaching 125 grams for a stage break, and when the water level drops and is about to expose the coffee bed, continue pouring until 225 grams and stop. When the water level drops again and is about to expose the coffee bed, remove the dripper (timing starts at the beginning of blooming), with an extraction time of 2 minutes 00 seconds.

The above content is compiled by CoffeeHunters, a coffee news website.

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