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Blue Mountain Coffee: Checking Authenticity and Estate Flavors

December 9, 2018
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How can Blue Mountain coffee be told apart from fakes?

Blue Mountain coffee is one of the most widely imitated names in the market, so buyers need a way to check what they are getting. Jamaica's growing history, its three main producing regions of St. Andrew, Portland and St. Thomas, the grading system and the washed processing method all feed into authenticity. Estate names such as Wallenford, Mavis Bank, R.S.W and Clifton Mount indicate where the beans were grown and processed.

Coffee reached Jamaica when Arabica seeds were introduced from Martinique and planted in the St. Andrew region, and exports grew quickly; the 1932 harvest passed 15,000 tons. In 1950 the government set up the Jamaica Coffee Industry Board to fix quality standards and issue official seals for exported green and roasted beans. Comparing estate marks, grades and the seal against the packaging is the practical way to judge a purchase.

Blue Mountain coffee is hailed as the king of coffee, but products labeled "Blue Mountain" on the market are a mixed bag, and how to distinguish the genuine from the fake has become a concern for many enthusiasts. This article starts with Jamaica's planting history, geographical conditions, coffee grading, and processing methods, systematically introducing the origin background of Blue Mountain coffee, and analyzing one by one the flavor characteristics of well-known estates such as WALLENFORD, Mavis Bank, R.S.W, and Clifton Mount. At the end, it also provides daily brewing parameter suggestions and four practical tips for identifying authenticity, helping you make a more accurate judgment when purchasing. Front Street Coffee also offers related recommendations for readers' reference.

When it comes to the most resounding name in the coffee world, if Blue Mountain is called second, probably no one dares to call themselves first. Even people who never drink coffee have more or less heard of this name. Previously we introduced Hawaii, the origin of KONA, the queen of coffee. Today let us turn our attention to Jamaica, the hometown of Blue Mountain, the king of coffee.

01 | Planting History

In 1717, King Louis XV of France issued an order to develop coffee cultivation in Jamaica. By the mid-1720s, Sir Nicholas Lawes, then Governor of Jamaica, introduced Arabica seeds from Martinique and subsequently promoted cultivation in the St. Andrew region. St. Andrew remains one of the three major producing regions of Blue Mountain coffee today, the other two being the Portland region and the St. Thomas region.

In less than eight years thereafter, Jamaica exported more than 375 tons of pure coffee overseas.

1932 saw the peak of production, with that year's harvest exceeding 15,000 tons.

In 1950, the Jamaican government established the Jamaica Coffee Industry Board, responsible for setting coffee quality standards and supervising their enforcement to safeguard the quality level of the country's coffee. The board issues special official seals for exported green beans and roasted beans, and this institution ranks highest among national-level coffee regulatory organizations worldwide.

At present, there are six marks that can represent the origin of Blue Mountain coffee, from: Mavis Bank Central Factory, Blue Mountain Coffee Cooperative Factory, Portland Blue Mountain Coffee Cooperative Factory, Coffee Industry Association (Wallenford), Coffee Industry Association (St. John's Peak), and Blue Ripple.

After 1969, production quality was improved with the help of Japanese loans, and its market position was consolidated. Having developed to this day, this coffee has been fervently pursued by countless enthusiasts.

In 1981, Jamaica cleared approximately 1,500 hectares of land for coffee cultivation, and subsequently invested in developing another 6,000 hectares. In fact, today the Blue Mountain region has only 6,000 hectares of planted area, an extremely limited area, and it is impossible that all coffee bearing the Blue Mountain name comes from there.

Jamaica is also the last country in the world that still packages and transports coffee in wooden barrels. Only coffee that has passed a series of stringent standards assessed by the Jamaica Coffee Industry Board is eligible to obtain a government-issued certificate and officially circulate under the name Blue Mountain.

02 | Geographical Conditions

Jamaica is located in the Caribbean Sea and is an island nation. The Blue Mountains are the highest mountain range in the western Caribbean, with an elevation of 2,256 meters. The unique flavor of Blue Mountain coffee is inseparable from the local, irreplicable geographical location and climate.

The Blue Mountains lie in the coffee-growing belt at 25 degrees north latitude, with fertile new volcanic soil, clean and pollution-free air, abundant rainfall year-round, high humidity, and a marked temperature difference between day and night. The soil is rich in nitrogen and phosphorus, providing ideal conditions for coffee growth. The fertility of the volcanic soil, regular rainfall, and the clouds and mist that often shroud the island and block the scorching sun—these elements together make Blue Mountain coffee what it is.

The harvest season for Jamaica Blue Mountain is usually from June to November each year, mainly hand-picked. Because the coffee trees are all planted on steep slopes, harvesting is extremely difficult, and it cannot be accomplished without the skill of local experienced women workers. Selecting cherries at just the right ripeness is crucial; underripe or overripe ones will drag down coffee quality.

03 | Coffee Grading

Coffee from the Jamaica Blue Mountain region is divided into three grades: Blue Mountain Coffee, High Mountain Coffee, and Jamaica Coffee.

Blue Mountain Coffee and High Mountain Coffee are each further subdivided into two levels. Arranged from highest to lowest quality: Blue Mountain No. 1, Blue Mountain No. 2, High Mountain No. 1, High Mountain No. 2, Jamaica Coffee.

Among these, the basic thresholds for Blue Mountain No. 1 green beans are: above 17 screen size, defect rate below 3%, moisture content about 13%, etc.

Generally speaking, only coffee grown at elevations between 457 meters and 1,524 meters can bear the name Blue Mountain. Coffee grown between 274 meters and 457 meters is called Jamaica Coffee. In terms of price, Blue Mountain coffee is several times more expensive than High Mountain coffee. It is mainly distributed across five peaks: John Crow, St. John's Peak, Mossman's Peak, High Peak, and Blue Mountain Peak.

04 | Processing Method

To date, Jamaica Blue Mountain coffee has only used the washed processing method.

The specific method is to remove the skin, pulp, and mucilage through washing and fermentation. Farms using the washed method must build washing tanks and be able to channel a continuous flow of fresh water. During processing, the skin and pulp are first removed, the beans are fermented for 12 to 18 hours, and then the fermented beans are moved into tanks and pushed back and forth, using friction between the beans and the flushing of water to wash the coffee beans to a smooth state.

After washing is completed, the coffee beans are still wrapped in the parchment layer, with a moisture content of about 50%, and must be dried in the sun to reduce the moisture content to 12% to 14%. The beans are then sorted and placed in dedicated storage bins. These steps must be strictly controlled, otherwise coffee quality will be greatly compromised.

05 | Estate Introductions

WALLENFORD

WALLENFORD Estate is located in the core area of the Blue Mountain range—on the slopes of Catherine's Peak at an elevation of about 1,524 meters. The estate began cultivating Blue Mountain coffee in 1790. The long-term cold and foggy climate makes the coffee cherries plump and sweet, and the Blue Mountain coffee beans it produces have an extremely unique quality.

In addition, against the backdrop of the government selling off and privatizing most estates, WALLENFORD ESTATE is the only estate that has been retained and is directly managed and operated by the Jamaican government. Its quality control process is the strictest, without excessive pursuit of commercial profit, with the mission of safeguarding the reputation of Jamaica Blue Mountain coffee.

1. The Jamaica Coffee Board's officially registered Logo, used for certification inspection of exported Jamaica Blue Mountain coffee;

2. The Jamaica Coffee Board's officially registered BLUE MOUNTAIN COFFEE? trademark, marking the outer packaging of authentic Jamaica Blue Mountain coffee;

3. The WALLENFORD COFFEE COMPANY registered trademark, marking the outer packaging of WALLENFORD Blue Mountain coffee.

Mavis bank

The Munn family began operating the Mavis Bank company in 1885, originally located slightly higher than the current site, named Strawberry Hill. Mavis Bank processes coffee cherries at high altitudes, and after investing in brand-new equipment, the trial-produced beans showed marked improvement in quality, because the processing truly achieved zero defects. This coffee has a mild and smooth taste, outstanding body, and sometimes reminds one of the aroma of high-mountain Dong Ding oolong tea.

R.S.W Blue Mountain

R.S.W Blue Mountain Estate is located in the mountainous area of southeastern Jamaica. R.S.W refers to 100% Blue Mountain coffee produced by its three estates: Resource, Sherwood Forest, and Whitfield Hall. The cultivation elevation of these three areas is about 700 to 1,600 meters, and the mountains are shrouded year-round in cool mist and clouds, which is very favorable for coffee tree growth. After harvesting, all the cherries are transported to the Sherwood Forest washing station for centralized processing.

Clifton Mount Estate

Clifton Mount is an ancient coffee-producing site in Jamaica that is still in normal operation today, and it is also the only Clifton farm in Jamaica with a tropical rainforest certification.

As early as the mid-eighteenth century, around 1750, Clifton Farm had already begun planting and processing coffee. The average elevation of the cultivation and processing areas is about 4,300 feet. Sufficient altitude, gentle afternoon cloud shading, ample sunlight, and mineral-rich soil provide good growing conditions for the coffee trees and also extend the ripening cycle of the coffee cherries.

06 | Brewing Suggestions

For daily brewing, you can choose a V60 dripper, a Kalita wave, or a KONO dripper.

Taking the KONO dripper as an example, the parameters are as follows: 15g coffee, water temperature 89°C, grind size 4, water-to-coffee ratio close to 1:15, total time about 2 minutes.

Technique: Bloom with 25 to 30g of water for 30 seconds. For the first pour, stop when the water reaches 120g, maintaining a vertical stream and pouring in a slow, small circular motion; for the second pour, add water up to 225g, with the stream and circling speed slightly faster, to avoid clogging the dripper with grounds and causing over-extraction.

The resulting cup tastes very clean, complex, and mild, with a chocolate-like sweetness and a strong body. The flavor is rich and mellow, with sweetness, acidity, and bitterness perfectly balanced. It has no bitterness at all, only a moderate and perfect acidity, and a lingering fruity note in the finish.

How to Identify Authentic Blue Mountain?

1. Appearance: Blue Mountain green beans are bluish-green in color, uniform in appearance, medium to slightly small in size, with both ends slightly upturned. After roasting, the volume increases markedly and the beans are very plump.

2. Grinding: Genuine Blue Mountain coffee beans are grown at high altitude, and their cell structure is relatively loose. When hand-grinding, they feel crisp and consistent, without any sense of resistance.

3. Aroma: The aroma is very rich and dense; so-called blended Blue Mountain coffee does not have this aroma.

4. Taste: Genuine Blue Mountain coffee has a balanced, rich mouthfeel, without any single flavor standing out or being lacking, which is also something no other coffee bean can match, and is the most crucial point of identification.

Authentic Blue Mountain and Blue Mountain flavor are two different concepts; the latter generally refers to coffee roasted from other bean varieties to imitate a taste similar to Blue Mountain. Blue Mountain blend beans are mixed from multiple sources, with relatively large differences in shape, making them easier to identify. Also, do not believe in "premium Blue Mountain" at just a few dozen yuan a pound, or Blue Mountain coffee at just over ten yuan a cup.

Related recommendations: Jamaica Blue Mountain pour-over suggestions, temperature, grind size, and coffee-to-water ratio introduction, with flavor and taste description

The above content is compiled by CoffeeHunters, a coffee news website.

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