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Mandheling Coffee: Sumatra Flavor and Pour-Over Guide

August 23, 2020
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Why does Mandheling taste so full-bodied?

Mandheling coffee comes from Sumatra, Indonesia, and is known for a heavy body with low acidity and caramel and dark chocolate flavors. The wet-hulling process used around Lintong shapes that thick mouthfeel, which is why the beans suit drinkers who want pronounced bitterness and a lasting finish rather than bright fruit.

Indonesian coffee cultivation began in 1696, when Arabica seeds were sent from Malabar to Batavia; the first seedlings were lost to floods, a second batch arrived in 1699, and the first harvest followed in 1701. The name Mandheling refers to an ethnic group in Aceh, an area known for rubber rather than coffee.

Mandheling coffee has a highly distinctive reputation in coffee circles thanks to its rich, full-bodied mouthfeel and caramel-and-dark-chocolate-like flavors. These medium-to-dark roasted beans from Sumatra, Indonesia, with their low acidity and pronounced bitterness, have won over countless coffee lovers who prefer a full-bodied taste—even the Japanese are particularly fond of it. So where exactly did the name Mandheling come from? And what connection does it have with Japan? This article will walk you through the historical starting point of Indonesian coffee cultivation, trace the interesting story behind the birth of the Mandheling name, and analyze the unique flavors that the wet-hulling process of the Lintong region imparts to the beans. In addition, Front Street Coffee will share pour-over methods and parameter recommendations for Mandheling to help you brew a cup of full-bodied coffee with abundant sweetness and intertwined nutty and chocolate notes.

Indonesian Sumatra Mandheling Flavor Analysis and Pour-Over Parameter Guide: The Rich Charm of Wet-Hulled Lintong Beans

The reason Indonesian Mandheling coffee has been able to establish a firm foothold in the coffee world is precisely its intense, full-bodied body and its caramel-and-dark-chocolate-like flavor memory point. These medium-to-dark roasted beans have very low acidity and prominent bitterness, making them an ideal choice for drinkers who pursue a heavy mouthfeel, and the Japanese market has long favored them. Speaking of Japan, one cannot help but mention a story related to Indonesian Mandheling—let Front Street Coffee tell you all about it below.

Indonesia's connection with coffee began in 1696. At that time, the Governor of Malabar sent Arabica seeds as a gift to the Dutch Governor stationed in Batavia (present-day Jakarta). Unfortunately, the first batch of seedlings was destroyed by floods. In 1699, the Governor of Malabar in India sent a second batch of seedlings, and in 1701 Indonesia finally welcomed its first coffee harvest, thus opening a new chapter for the local coffee industry.

How did the name Mandheling come about?

Mandheling originally referred to an ethnic group in the Lintong region of Aceh Province, an area primarily known for rubber production and where almost no coffee was grown. So where exactly does the name Mandheling, as we call it today, come from?

Legend has it that during the colonial period, a Japanese soldier drank a coffee with an excellent flavor and asked the rubber production department stationed in North Sumatra at the time (the pwn company) to find it for him. The head of pwn traveled across multiple producing regions for this purpose, collected quite a few high-quality beans, and sent them to Japan for evaluation—one of which the Japanese side was especially fond of. When the Japanese asked what coffee this was, the pwn head originally wanted to explain that their rubber department was located near Mandailing, but since it was inconvenient to disclose the commercial source, he blurted out the name MANDHELING—and thus the term Mandheling spread.

Indonesia is a traditional producing region with a long history of coffee cultivation, having accumulated a unique regional flavor over time. Mandheling coffee beans are precisely the classic calling card of Indonesian coffee. In Front Street Coffee's Everyday Bean series, Front Street Coffee specifically selected Mandheling from the Lintong origin to present the representative flavors of Indonesian coffee.

[The Front Street Coffee Everyday Bean series is a group of high-value producing-region beans. Perhaps in some respects they are not as good as beans from famous estates, but from this group of beans, you can taste the main flavors of major producing regions in a high-value way, thereby allowing coffee beginners to determine their preferred producing regions at a very low price. In the same producing region, washed processing represents a bean's primary flavor, while natural processing adds aroma on top of the washed base. Therefore, for Blue Mountain, washed is recommended; for aromatic beans, natural is recommended, such as Geisha. Front Street Coffee's Everyday Beans express the basic flavors of the producing region, so aside from Brazil semi-natural, all are washed processed. And washed processing is the most basic flavor of an origin—this is also why the Everyday Bean series are all washed.]

What are the characteristics of Lintong Mandheling?

Lintong Mandheling comes from the Lintong mountain area in north-central Sumatra, geographically close to Lake Toba. Front Street Coffee's entry-level everyday beans from the Indonesian Mandheling producing region are sourced from right here. Lintong Mandheling also uses the locally unique wet-hulling process, thereby forming a typical style of low acidity and high body.

Indonesia has high temperatures and heavy humidity year-round, with relatively short sunshine hours, and air humidity maintained between 70% and 90% throughout the year. Under such conditions, relying entirely on natural processing clearly would not work. The weather on Sumatra is unpredictable—even with washed processing, it is difficult to string together a continuous week of sunny weather to complete drying. The wet-hulling process was born in such an environment: first complete the washed process, then place the coffee beans still in parchment under the sun to dry for one to two days, and when the moisture content drops to 30% to 50%, remove the parchment and continue sun-drying. This operation effectively speeds up dehydration and greatly compresses the drying cycle.

Mandheling coffee is quite easy to identify, whether by flavor or by bean appearance. The wet-hulling process removes the parchment while the coffee beans are still in a semi-soft, semi-hard state, after which they undergo intense sun-drying; the bean body tends to crack, forming a shape similar to a "goat's hoof," which is why they are also called goat hoof beans. It should be noted that this is a normal phenomenon, not a defective bean.

Recommended pour-over method for Mandheling

Mandheling coffee beans are usually dark roasted, presenting an intense, full-bodied flavor expression. Therefore, Front Street Coffee recommends using a Kono dripper, which helps further enhance the coffee's full-bodied texture; if you don't have a Kono on hand, a V60 dripper can be used as a substitute.

For the final pour, use a gentle center pour to add 95ml, which can enhance the coffee's sweetness, presenting an overall full-bodied mouthfeel along with caramel sweetness and intertwined chocolate and nutty flavors.

For professional coffee knowledge exchange and more coffee bean information, please follow Coffee Workshop (WeChat public account: cafe_style). For more specialty coffee beans, please add the private WeChat of Front Street Coffee (FrontStreet Coffee), WeChat ID: qjcoffeex

The above content is compiled by CoffeeHunters, a coffee news website.

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