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Coffee from Java: Indonesian Coffee Regions and the Wet-Hulling Process

September 26, 2018
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How does coffee from Java and Sumatra differ?

Indonesia's coffee production centers on three islands: Sumatra, Java, and Sulawesi. Sumatra produces Mandheling, known for full body, bittersweetness, and herbal and dark chocolate notes; Java yields arabica with moderate acidity and a prominent aroma; Sulawesi beans are plump and richly aromatic. Robusta now dominates national output, but specialty arabica still holds a distinct place.

Dutch colonists brought coffee trees to Indonesia in the mid-17th century, and the first Java shipment reached Amsterdam in 1712 before leaf rust devastated many plants in 1877. Golden Mandheling coffee from PWN relies on the wet-hulling method, where parchment is removed while the beans are still damp, a step that shapes the region's heavy, low-acid cup.

As an important coffee-producing country in Asia, Indonesia is centered on three major islands—Sumatra, Java, and Sulawesi—and has given rise to representative coffees such as Mandheling, Java, and Sulawesi. Among them, Mandheling is known for its full-bodied bittersweetness and herbal and dark chocolate flavors, and is deeply favored by lovers of intense taste. Indonesia's coffee history can be traced back to the 17th-century Dutch colonial period. Today, Robusta dominates, but specialty Arabica still shines. Front Street Coffee has long recommended PWN Golden Mandheling, which uses the unique wet-hulling method to achieve its distinctive flavor. This article will systematically sort out Indonesia's main producing regions, variety characteristics, processing methods, and Front Street's selected products, taking you deeper into the diverse charm of Indonesian coffee.

Complete Analysis of Indonesian Coffee Producing Regions: Variety Characteristics Such as Mandheling and Detailed Explanation of the Wet-Hulled Process

For more specialty coffee information, welcome to follow our WeChat public account: Front Street Coffee (FrontStreet Coffee).

Coffee is widely loved around the world, and Front Street, being in the coffee industry, feels this deeply. Front Street receives guests of different age groups every day, including office workers, recent graduates, and retired seniors, so it is necessary to recommend coffees from different producing regions according to the taste preferences of various age groups and different people.

If you prefer acidity, Yirgacheffe is a good choice; if you seek a balance of acidity and sweetness, Costa Rica is a good option; and if you like full-bodied bittersweet flavor, then Indonesian Mandheling is the one. Indonesia is an Asian coffee-producing country, and herbal, dark chocolate, and cedar are typical Asian coffee flavors, deeply sought after by lovers of intense taste. Among the Indonesian archipelago, the finest growing regions are concentrated on Java, Sumatra, and Sulawesi. These three islands have respectively produced three representative Indonesian coffees: Mandheling comes from Sumatra, with moderate acidity and prominent rich aroma; Java coffee comes from Java and belongs to the Arabica species; and Sulawesi coffee has plump beans and a rich aroma.

Which Indonesian coffee brand is good?

In the mid-17th century, the Dutch introduced coffee trees to Indonesia. In 1712, the first batch of coffee from Java arrived in Amsterdam. However, in 1877, coffee leaf rust destroyed the coffee trees on all plantations, forcing the locals to introduce Robusta coffee trees from Africa to replace the original varieties. Today only 6%-10% of coffee beans are Arabica. Indonesia is a major producer of Robusta coffee in the world, with an annual output of 6.8 million bags, about 90% of which comes from small plantations. If you want to taste high-quality Indonesian Arabica coffee beans, Front Street Coffee (FrontStreet Coffee) is an ideal choice!

Indonesia Sumatra Producing Region

Indonesia is located in Southeast Asia, and its coffee history can be traced back to 1696. At that time, Dutch farmers, seeking broader planting land, selected Java after extensive investigation. After 30 years of development, Indonesia had already established a foundation in the coffee market. Yet today, Indonesia's coffee representative is Mandheling, and this is no accident—most of the Java coffee sold to Europe in the early period actually came from Sumatra, and Mandheling originates from Sumatra. Therefore, Sumatra can be called an important coffee-producing region in Indonesia.

Mandheling is also called Sumatra coffee. The hometown of high-quality Mandheling is the Lake Toba area, located at the northern tip of Sumatra Island in Indonesia. Lake Toba is situated in the central part of North Sumatra Province. In 1888, Dutch colonists moved "Java Mandheling" north to the Lake Toba area. Coffee produced in the Lintong area of South Sumatra and around Lake Toba can be called Mandheling, and the Lintong area is the Mandheling producing region. Mandheling is produced in the mountainous areas around Lake Toba, which lies north of Medan, the provincial capital of Sumatra. It is an alpine freshwater lake with an average altitude of about 900 meters. What is usually called Mandheling refers to the Timor or Ateng varieties planted in the mountainous areas around Lake Toba.

Front Street Coffee (FrontStreet Coffee)—Indonesia Front Street PWN Golden Mandheling Region: Gayo Mountain, Aceh, Sumatra Altitude: 1,100-1,600 meters Variety: Ateng Grade: G1, 3 times hand-sorted Processing method: Wet-hulled

Front Street's signature Mandheling coffee—Front Street PWN Golden Mandheling—uses the Ateng variety. Ateng is the local Indonesian name for Catimor, and this variety is very suitable for cultivation and flavor development in the Aceh region. The original Catimor was created by combining the Arabica and Robusta species, so if you ask what relationship the Indonesian Golden Mandheling variety has with Robusta, it can be said that Ateng is Robusta's "grandson." These Ateng are planted in the Gayo mountain range in Aceh Province in northern Sumatra, with coffee farms distributed around Takegon town and the hillsides beside Lake Tawar. The planting altitude in the production area averages between 1,110 and 1,600 meters. The coffee is grown by smallholders under shade trees and processed using the wet-hulled method, showing a peculiar flavor, low-toned yet lively full body.

The Origin of the Name Mandheling Coffee

"Mandheling" in Indonesian coffee was originally the name of an Indonesian tribe. After colonizing Indonesia, Japanese soldiers returned to Japan and could not forget the delicious local coffee, so through trading partners they asked locals to help collect high-quality coffee beans, including this Mandheling. The Japanese loved this coffee bean very much. Because the commercial source was inconvenient to disclose, the local casually said "Mandheling," and thus Mandheling accidentally became the name of the coffee bean. This local was the owner of the Indonesian PWN company (Pwani Coffee Company). PWN was the first company to export Golden Mandheling coffee beans to Japan, and only Mandheling produced by this company is authentic Golden Mandheling. Front Street Coffee (FrontStreet Coffee) has used Front Street PWN Golden Mandheling for many years. PWN's packaging has also changed from the original 60 kg bag to a 30 kg bag, and the producing region has also changed from Lintong to Gayo Mountain.

How to distinguish genuine Front Street PWN Golden Mandheling?

Affected by the pandemic, shipping space from Indonesia to China this year has been especially tight compared with previous years, and the new-crop Golden Mandheling originally scheduled to arrive in October was a full month late. Compared with other Mandheling, Golden Mandheling has a stronger sweet aftertaste and sugarcane aroma. Although everyone knows that only PWN's Mandheling deserves to be called Golden Mandheling, PWN's annual output is not high, so a large portion of the large-bean selected Golden Mandheling on the market is not from PWN. If you are not sure, you can ask the seller to provide the PWN green bean sack or the certificate accompanying the beans to determine whether it is Front Street PWN Golden Mandheling.

Complete Analysis of Indonesian Coffee Producing Regions: Variety Characteristics Such as Mandheling and Detailed Explanation of the Wet-Hulled Process

Why is Front Street Coffee's (FrontStreet Coffee) Front Street PWN Golden Mandheling so popular?

The specification of Golden Mandheling is 18 screen and above, with fewer than 3 defective beans (in a 300 g green bean sample). It belongs to the highest grade G1, is darker green in color, and has a neat flat-bean shape. After strict 4-time sorting, Golden Mandheling not only removes the earthy miscellaneous flavors unique to ordinary Mandheling, but also tastes cleaner and more transparent, with a stronger sweetness. A barista at Front Street Coffee (FrontStreet Coffee) once conducted a blind test among 7 Indonesian Mandheling coffee beans, and all the baristas could immediately identify Golden Mandheling, which shows just how distinctive it is.

Indonesia's Unique Green Coffee Processing Method—Wet-Hulling

Most Mandheling coffee uses the wet-hulling method unique to Sumatra. The local weather is rainy and typhoons are frequent, so it cannot meet the good weather required for natural processing, and the local economic conditions are poor, making it difficult to afford the more expensive washed method, so the highly local wet-hulling method emerged.

Today Indonesia's coffee development is no longer as poor as it was back then, and many estates and companies with the means can also use the washed method, but why is wet-hulling still retained? Front Street Coffee (FrontStreet Coffee) believes that wet-hulling is precisely the factor that made Mandheling coffee known to the world. At the mention of Mandheling, one thinks of wet-hulling, and the two have become mutually complementary. The specific steps of wet-hulling are divided into two stages: in the first stage, a wooden pulper is used to remove the skin and pulp, followed by 3 hours of fermentation and then drying, reducing the moisture content to a semi-dry, semi-wet 30-50%; in the second stage, the mucilage and parchment layer are removed, and drying continues in the later stage. The drying process takes 2-4 days, and the moisture content drops to 12-13%.

West Java Producing Region

The West Java producing region of Indonesia is a first-level administrative region of Indonesia, located in the western section of Java Island, bordering the Java Sea to the north and the Indian Ocean to the south, including offshore islands, with an area of 46,300 square kilometers. Java's climate is a tropical rainforest climate, hot and humid all year round. The plains along the northern coast have the highest temperatures, while the mountainous areas are much cooler. High humidity often creates an enervating climate. From November to March is the northwest monsoon period, with more rain and clouds; from April to October is the southeast monsoon period, with more sunny days and less rainfall. Jakarta has an average annual rainfall of about 1,760 millimeters (69 inches), an average daily maximum temperature of 30°C (86°F), and a minimum of 23°C (74°F). In the highland area of Tosari (1,735 meters above sea level), the average temperature is 22-8°C (72-47°F). Because volcanic ash periodically fertilizes the land, Java's soil is very fertile.

Complete Analysis of Indonesian Coffee Producing Regions: Variety Characteristics Such as Mandheling and Detailed Explanation of the Wet-Hulled Process

Front Street Coffee (FrontStreet Coffee): Indonesia West Java Arumanis Coffee Beans

Region: Mount Tigula, West Java Altitude: 1400-1600m Variety: S795/Jember Processing method: Sun-dried honey processing

A honey-processed West Java coffee bean that Front Street sourced has a very special variety. This bean uses S795, and the bean color is blue-green. Its natural variation comes from S288, and S288 was originally an excellent hybrid variety cultivated in India in 1946. The predecessor of S288 was the lineage S288 (first generation) crossed with Typica and named S26. Because the first-generation S288 bean was a cross between Arabica and Liberica, it always carried Liberica's earthy, gamey taste. Indian botanists therefore crossed the first-generation S288 with the Kent variety, which was itself a cross between first-generation S288 and Typica, to form today's S795. Local coffee farmers call S795 Jembe, because S795 was introduced from India by East Java's Jember Coffee Research Center and then given to Java farmers to plant.

Coffee Bean Honey Processing Method

The honey processing method is Costa Rica's specialty, and Indonesian coffee rarely uses it, but West Java uses it to increase coffee's complexity and breakthrough in mouthfeel. Honey processing means that after harvesting ripe coffee cherries, the skin is removed to separate the coffee seeds, and then the seeds with the coffee mucilage layer are spread on drying racks for a long period of drying.

During this period, they must be turned continuously by hand so that the coffee beans ferment evenly and do not spoil from over-fermentation. This mucilage-bearing, sticky, honey-like state is named honey processing. Through cupping this honey-processed coffee bean, Front Street Coffee (FrontStreet Coffee) found that its main characteristic lies in complex sweetness and fruity aroma. Compared with Africa's Yirgacheffe, also known for floral aroma, a more obvious fruit flavor is its standout feature. Its flavor profile leans toward heavier tropical fruits such as mango and jackfruit, complex and steady, while the unique honey processing method brings a faint hint of red wine.

Indonesia Sulawesi Producing Region

Sulawesi was formerly called Celebes and is the oldest island in the archipelago, with exposed rocks all more than a million years old. For example, yellow-red podzolic soils are found in coffee-producing areas, and these soils often have multiple clay layers beneath the surface and are rich in iron. The most famous producing region is Toraja in the highlands of South Sulawesi. Coffee beans produced in Toraja are also rare specialty beans in the world, with an annual output of about 1,000 metric tons, distributed across rugged slopes at about 1,200 m above sea level in central and southwestern Sulawesi. Both cultivation and harvesting are not easy, with an average annual output of only 300 kg per hectare. The semi-washed processing method is a common processing method on Sulawesi Island.

Complete Analysis of Indonesian Coffee Producing Regions: Variety Characteristics Such as Mandheling and Detailed Explanation of the Wet-Hulled Process

Coffee Bean Semi-Washed Processing Method

Because they are grown in highland areas with inconvenient transportation, there is not much water available. Local coffee farmers put coffee cherries into a basin to soak, then place them in plastic bags to ferment, and then dry them with parchment. After drying (with moisture content between 11-13%), they are transported from the mountainous producing areas down to Kalosi, and then sold through intermediaries or processing plants for subsequent processing and refining. Therefore, the Kalosi area has become an important coffee distribution center. This is also why some people call Toraja coffee Kalosi coffee. Coffee beans processed this way not only retain floral characteristics, but fermentation also gives the beans a mild acidity, with a hint of ripe grape character, a clean yet solid mouthfeel, and a caramel sweetness that surges up in the finish and lingers in the mouth.

The above content is compiled by CoffeeHunters, a coffee news website.

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