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Golden Mandheling Coffee and Yunnan Coffee: What PWN Certification Means

October 9, 2021
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Is PWN certified Golden Mandheling coffee worth seeking out?

Golden Mandheling is one of the more representative Indonesian coffee types, with a full body and herbal, piney, spicy aromas. Pawani Coffee Company (PWN) owns the registered Golden Mandheling trademark and buys beans from surrounding regions, then runs three rounds of manual sorting plus one machine screening. The result is symmetrical beans with consistent size and cleaner brewed coffee.

The core selling point is uniformity, neatness and a low defect rate rather than sheer bean size. Many traders sell large Indonesian beans as Golden Mandheling, and some advertise a 20-screen (mesh) figure as a gimmick, which is why the name appears so widely despite limited production. Check the burlap sacks for the PWN logo and certificate when judging authenticity.

Yunnan, as the core producing region for Chinese domestic coffee, has been continuously refreshing the public's perception of homegrown coffee in recent years. This article systematically reviews the distribution and characteristics of Yunnan's main coffee-producing regions—Pu'er, Dehong, Lincang, and Baoshan—analyzes the current cultivation status of varieties such as Catimor, Typica, and Bourbon in Yunnan, and highlights Front Street Coffee's Typica planting practices and brewing methods in Lincang. At the same time, the article also explores Yunnan coffee's preference for washed processing, harvesting challenges, and the trend toward specialization, helping coffee enthusiasts gain a comprehensive understanding of the flavor potential and industry landscape of Yunnan arabica coffee. It is suitable for readers interested in domestic coffee to read in depth.

Yunnan Coffee Producing Region Distribution and Variety Analysis: Flavor Characteristics and Brewing Key Points of Pour-Over Yunnan Small-Bean Coffee

Yunnan coffee In recent years, it has risen prominently in domestic coffee circles, truly like a dark horse. Many people originally did not know that China actually had coffee-producing regions, until the movie "A Little Red Flower" starring Liu Haoran became a hit, which brought "Pu'er coffee" into the public eye, and Yunnan coffee beans have since continued to refresh people's understanding.

Front Street has learned that the natural conditions of Yunnan's Pu'er producing region are quite similar to those of Colombia. Pu'er happens to be located within the golden latitude belt for global coffee cultivation, and like coffee-producing regions in Brazil, Vietnam, Indonesia, and other countries, it lies between the Tropic of Cancer and the Tropic of Capricorn.

The altitude of the Pu'er producing region is relatively high within China, at about 1,000 to 2,000 meters. The terrain is mainly mountainous with obvious undulations, fertile soil, abundant sunshine, sufficient rainfall, and a significant temperature difference between day and night. These unique conditions are very suitable for cultivating Yunnan arabica coffee , and the Yunnan arabica coffee produced also performs quite well in flavor.

In addition to Pu'er, Yunnan coffee is also distributed in other areas of the province. Front Street will briefly introduce them one by one here.

Yunnan Coffee Producing Region Distribution and Variety Analysis: Flavor Characteristics and Brewing Key Points of Pour-Over Yunnan Small-Bean Coffee

Dehong

Dehong Prefecture has a coffee cultivation history of more than a century and is one of the earliest regions in China to introduce coffee. As early as 1914, the local area introduced arabica coffee from Myanmar for scattered cultivation; after a trial planting of 6 mu succeeded in 1953, it gradually shifted to commercial cultivation. Dehong successfully registered the "Dehong Coffee" geographical indication and was awarded the title of "Hometown of Chinese Coffee."

At present, the prefecture's coffee planting area has reached 275,800 mu, of which 140,000 mu is in production, dry coffee bean output is 28,000 tons, agricultural output value is 616 million yuan, and industrial output value is 800 million yuan. At the same time, Dehong is also the main producing area of Huguo Coffee, the only national-level leading enterprise in agricultural industrialization in the coffee industry. Coffee cultivation in Dehong Prefecture is all above 1,000 meters in altitude, of which 30,000 mu is located in mountainous areas above 1,600 meters. In addition, the local area mainly uses organic fertilizer and organic pesticides, so the coffee produced is of extremely high quality and can be called one of the rare high-quality coffee-producing areas in the world.

Lincang

With its unique geographical location and climatic conditions, Lincang has become the focus of attention for many coffee companies. The local area has successively established high-quality coffee seedling bases of 200 mu and 100 mu in Mengding Town, Gengma Autonomous County, and Lincang Xingfu Farm, and has carried out coffee cultivation in Gengma, Zhenkang, Yunxian, Cangyuan, Yongde, and other places. Up to now, Lincang has built 96 coffee nurseries citywide, with an area of 1,570 mu, cultivating 67.19 million coffee seedlings, enough to plant 203,000 mu, and has implemented a coffee planting area of 260,000 mu. Front Street Coffee (FrontStreet Coffee) also has its own coffee estate in the Lincang area.

Yunnan Coffee Producing Region Distribution and Variety Analysis: Flavor Characteristics and Brewing Key Points of Pour-Over Yunnan Small-Bean Coffee

As early as 2013, Front Street began coffee cultivation experiments in Lincang with the Typica variety—this is precisely the ancient superior arabica variety that first entered Yunnan. The agricultural cycle is long, and it takes 5 to 6 years from breeding to the first fruiting. In 2018, the first batch of Typica trees planted by Front Street began to bear fruit. In the 2020/21 year, Front Street harvested 200 kilograms of green beans. Due to the limited quantity, they were given as gifts for new and old customers to try. By the 2021/22 year, Front Street harvested 600 kilograms of green beans. Friends who want to taste coffee grown by Front Street can drink it in the store or purchase it from the Taobao shop. Front Street uses medium roasting for this coffee bean, and the flavor profile is plum, brown sugar, and nuts.

Baoshan

Coffee cultivation in Baoshan began in the mid-1950s, and the first coffee seedling was introduced from Southeast Asia by the late patriotic overseas Chinese Mr. Liang Jinshan. The locally famous Lujiangba arabica coffee is of relatively high quality and was rated as a first-class product in London, England, as early as the late 1950s.

In recent years, with the continuous expansion of international trade, Lujiangba's arabica coffee has become even more widely known. Merchants from Europe, America, and Arab countries, especially those from the United Kingdom, the United States, Egypt, and Hong Kong and Macao, all regard it as a premium coffee, and demand has exceeded supply. In December 2010, after review by China's General Administration of Quality Supervision, Inspection and Quarantine, it was decided to implement national geographical indication product protection for "Baoshan arabica coffee."

Yunnan Coffee Producing Region Distribution and Variety Analysis: Flavor Characteristics and Brewing Key Points of Pour-Over Yunnan Small-Bean Coffee

If one were to choose a coffee that represents Yunnan's basic flavor, Front Street believes it is Baoshan's washed Catimor. Baoshan is an outstanding coffee-producing area in Yunnan, and Lujiangba, at an altitude of 1,300 meters, is suitable for coffee growth. Catimor coffee accounts for 99% of Yunnan's total output, and washed processing best reflects the flavor of the coffee bean itself. Therefore, Baoshan washed Catimor is also the representative of Front Street's Yunnan everyday coffee beans.

Because Yunnan coffee is mainly planted on steep slopes, harvesting fully red cherries is extremely labor-intensive. Even if a high price is offered, it is still very difficult to find people willing to pick coffee cherries. After pruning to reduce yield, ripeness improves significantly, harvesting difficulty is greatly reduced, and coffee farmers are more willing to cultivate carefully in exchange for better income.

Yunnan Coffee Producing Region Distribution and Variety Analysis: Flavor Characteristics and Brewing Key Points of Pour-Over Yunnan Small-Bean Coffee

There is another question that everyone often wonders about: what coffee varieties are suitable for planting in Yunnan's climate? Many regions in Central America grow Caturra and Catuai, Brazil grows Bourbon, and Jamaica Blue Mountain grows Typica.

According to Front Street's understanding, Yunnan currently mainly grows Catimor, but those who know more about Yunnan coffee will also find that a small amount of Typica and Bourbon is also grown locally. These two ancient varieties are the elders of Yunnan coffee varieties . Front Street has learned that what Yunnan first introduced was precisely Typica, but Typica is susceptible to leaf rust and has low yield, so coffee farmers are not very willing to grow it. Because coffee trees need at least three to four years from planting to harvest, low-yield Typica cannot sustain local livelihoods, so high-yield Catimor is naturally more favored. In addition, Catimor has the genes of arabica and robusta, inheriting robusta's disease resistance while also producing quite rich coffee oils when extracted.

Regarding the processing methods for Yunnan coffee beans, because Yunnan has a rainy season all year round and the climate is unstable, it is not very suitable to use natural processing. Washed processing is more often used for green coffee beans. In washed processing, defective beans and impurities are first removed, then the skin and pulp are removed through a depulper, and then the beans are placed in water to ferment for about 18 hours. The washed fermentation process is relatively easy to control, and in flavor it does not carry the off-flavors of natural beans, but instead shows obvious fruit acidity, although the richness of flavor is also slightly weaker.

Front Street uses a three-stage method to brew this Yunnan coffee bean : first bloom with 30 grams of water for 30 seconds, then pour in a small stream in circles to 124 grams for the first stage, and when the water level drops and is about to expose the coffee bed, continue pouring to 227 grams and stop, then remove the dripper when the water level drops and is about to expose the coffee bed. Timing starts from the beginning of blooming, and the extraction time is 2 minutes.

Yunnan Coffee Producing Region Distribution and Variety Analysis: Flavor Characteristics and Brewing Key Points of Pour-Over Yunnan Small-Bean Coffee

Based on the flavor obtained through brewing, Front Street believes that Front Street 2013 Typica coffee beans have a rich melon and fruit aroma and herbal aroma on entry, with a smooth mouthfeel, nut and chocolate flavors in the middle, lively and bright plum acidity at the finish, and black tea and brown sugar notes in the aftertaste. As for the flavor of Yunnan arabica coffee , the acidity is bright and soft, the body is mellow and balanced with good layering, the finish has notes of dark chocolate and caramel, and after completely cooling it presents brown sugar flavor.

The production techniques of Yunnan specialty coffee are continuously improving, which has also attracted coffee people from all walks of life. More and more green coffee bean merchants are establishing raw material production bases in Yunnan, and coffee giant Starbucks has also joined the ranks of purchasing Yunnan coffee.

For professional coffee knowledge exchange and more coffee bean information, please follow Coffee Workshop (WeChat public account: cafe_style)

For more specialty coffee beans, please add the private WeChat of Front Street Coffee (FrontStreet Coffee), WeChat ID: kaixinguoguo0925

The above content is compiled by CoffeeHunters, a coffee news website.

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