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Panama Geisha Grades and Specialty Coffee Regions

August 8, 2020
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Which Panama Geisha Grades Are Worth Knowing?

Panama is a central origin for specialty coffee, and Geisha is its signature variety, prized for a clean cup and layered fruit notes. Hacienda La Esmeralda sorts its Geisha into Red Label, Green Label and Blue Label, a grading system that has shaped how buyers and enthusiasts compare Panamanian lots.

Panamanian coffee traces back to 1780, when European immigrants brought the first Typica trees. Specialty production concentrates in two regions, Boquete and Volcan, both known for elegant floral aroma, fruity notes and a long-lasting coffee aroma. Beans such as Butterfly, Elida and Hartmann show how terrain, altitude and processing differ.

Panama is a pivotal origin in the global specialty coffee landscape. When mentioning it, most people first think of Geisha. This variety is known for its clean taste and richly layered fruit notes, and Hacienda La Esmeralda's grading system for Geisha—Red Label, Green Label, and Blue Label—has long been a topic of great interest among enthusiasts. When selecting Panamanian beans, Front Street Coffee comprehensively considers terrain, altitude, and processing methods, and has listed a number of coffees from the Boquete and Volcan regions, including Butterfly, Elida, Hartmann, and Geisha of different grades. This article will outline the historical origins of Panamanian coffee, the characteristics of its two core producing regions, the logic behind Hacienda La Esmeralda's Geisha grading, and include Front Street's pour-over brewing parameters for Panamanian Geisha for your reference.

Panama Specialty Coffee Producing Regions and Geisha Grading, Plus Front Street Pour-Over Parameters Sharing

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When it comes to Panamanian coffee, Geisha is an unavoidable name. This variety of coffee has a clean taste and a lively, rich fruit aroma in the finish. When selecting high-quality Panamanian beans, Front Street Coffee (FrontStreet Coffee) evaluates them from multiple dimensions such as terrain, altitude, and processing method. Front Street has also always believed that Panamanian coffee offers outstanding value for money, so it has successively listed a number of Panamanian coffees. Below, we introduce them one by one.

The history of Panamanian coffee can be traced back to 1780, when European immigrants brought the first Typica trees to this land. Panama is located in Central America and has ample sunshine, suitable land and high mountain conditions, plus abundant labor resources. Front Street Coffee (FrontStreet Coffee) believes there are solid reasons why this place can become an excellent producing region for high-quality specialty coffee.

Front Street has learned that Panamanian specialty coffee mainly comes from two producing regions: Boquete and Volcan. The coffee from these two regions exudes an elegant and charming floral aroma, reminiscent of fruity flavor notes, and a long-lasting coffee aroma is a common feature of both. Front Street Coffee (FrontStreet Coffee) has several beans from the Boquete region, such as Butterfly Coffee Beans and Elida Typica. The Boquete region is located near the border between Panama and Costa Rica, adjacent to the famous Baru Volcano, with fertile and rich soil. Its climate and soil conditions are very suitable for producing high-quality coffee.

In addition, many well-known estates are located in the Boquete region, such as Hacienda La Esmeralda, Elida Estate, and Kotowa Duncan Estate. Among them, Hacienda La Esmeralda attracts the most attention, and Front Street also highly recognizes the coffee beans from Hacienda La Esmeralda.

Hacienda La Esmeralda mainly grows the Geisha variety. Geisha was initially not valued at Hacienda La Jaramillo and was merely used as a windbreak tree, so its production was very limited. Later, Hacienda La Jaramillo was acquired by Hacienda La Esmeralda. Front Street believes this may be somewhat related to the better flavor of the coffee grown in the Hacienda La Jaramillo area. Hacienda La Esmeralda's decision to continuously acquire other estates was very wise, and Front Street believes this is also one of the key reasons why Hacienda La Esmeralda can occupy an important position in the coffee industry.

It was not until after Hacienda La Esmeralda completed the acquisition that the distinctive flavor of the Geisha variety was discovered. Front Street believes that perhaps it is precisely because Geisha was grown in a relatively harsh environment that its excellent flavor was created by coincidence.

Front Street feels that obtaining high-quality coffee beans is by no means easy and requires a great deal of thought and management. Taking Hacienda La Esmeralda as an example, they have also put considerable effort into Geisha grading. The estate determines planting plots according to altitude and divides Geisha into several grades such as Red Label, Green Label, and Blue Label.

You may not be very familiar with the concepts of Red Label, Green Label, and Blue Label, so Front Street will give a brief explanation here. High-quality Geisha comes from three estates: Jaramillo, Canas Verdes, and Velo. Hacienda La Esmeralda divides them into five major brands based on cupping performance as well as the planted variety and plot. Among them, the Geisha variety has three brands: Esmeralda Special, Private Collection, and Geisha 1500.

Panama Specialty Coffee Producing Regions and Geisha Grading, Plus Front Street Pour-Over Parameters Sharing

Red Label: This refers to the Geisha specially selected by Hacienda La Esmeralda. It is grown at an altitude of 1,600 to 1,800 meters, with a cupping score above 90, and comes from Jaramillo and Canas Verdes. The Red Label put up for bidding is called Auction Red Label, while those not participating in the auction are simply called Red Label. In fact, non-auction Red Label and Auction Red Label both come from the same plot, so Front Street believes both Geishas are good choices. If you are just starting out and simply want to taste Geisha, you can begin with Red Label Geisha. This grade of Geisha has two processing methods, natural and washed, with a very distinctive, bright flavor and floral and citrus aromas.

Green Label: This is Private Collection, commonly known as Green Label. It is grown from excellent-quality Geisha varieties that do not participate in auctions, and is a blend of micro-lots from different plots.

Panama Specialty Coffee Producing Regions and Geisha Grading, Plus Front Street Pour-Over Parameters Sharing

Among Front Street's customers, people often ask about the difference between Red Label and Green Label. Front Street believes the core difference is that Red Label can be traced to a specific plot, while Green Label cannot specify a particular plot. But this does not affect the flavor of Green Label. On the contrary, Front Street thinks this is like buying a lottery ticket—perhaps what you buy is Green Label, but the batch you actually drink may in fact be Red Label. This is a very interesting phenomenon. Although Green Label is lower in grade than Red Label, Green Label still carries the classic flavor of Geisha—floral, fruity, and citrus-like acidity.

Blue Label: The brand Geisha 1500 is what we commonly call Blue Label Geisha. It is a blend of beans from three different plots, using beans grown at an altitude of 1,400 to 1,500 meters. The difference between Blue Label and the other two grades is that Blue Label Geisha generally only comes in washed processing, with a flavor featuring slight floral notes and fruity acidity. Front Street Coffee (FrontStreet Coffee) not only offers washed Blue Label Geisha, but also provides naturally processed Blue Label Geisha coffee beans.

This batch of washed Red Label Geisha purchased by Front Street comes from Hacienda La Esmeralda's Jaramillo plot. Hacienda La Esmeralda puts the harvested coffee cherries into a fermentation tank, skims off floating debris, then drains the water away, pushes the selected coffee cherries down the funnel, and proceeds to the next step of processing.

Panama Specialty Coffee Producing Regions and Geisha Grading, Plus Front Street Pour-Over Parameters Sharing

The washed Green Label Geisha beans are relatively hard. Because the water activity of beans in the new crop season is better, Front Street chooses to use a high-temperature, rapid dehydration method during roasting, with a faster roasting pace to bring out the multi-layered fruit flavors and rich floral aroma of Green Label Geisha.

In previous years, Blue Label Geisha was only available in washed processing, but this year naturally processed Blue Label Geisha has been added, and Front Street has also listed a naturally processed Blue Label Geisha. Front Street will briefly introduce the natural Blue Label Geisha.

Generally speaking, Hacienda La Esmeralda's natural processing sends the harvested coffee cherries directly to the courtyard to dry. The coffee cherries slowly dry while the coffee beans are still inside, and the beans become full of fruity and aromatic notes. When sufficient dryness is reached, they are placed into a Guardiola dryer and rotated for 72 hours to complete the drying process and prevent fermentation. After drying is completed, they are placed in nylon bags and stored in the warehouse. Of course, Hacienda La Esmeralda's natural processing also has an unavoidable issue—during the drying process, if one is not careful, the parchment beans will reabsorb moisture and damage quality.

In addition, Front Street has also listed a Butterfly coffee bean from the Boquete region. Butterfly has 70% high-quality Geisha lineage and is composed of three varieties: Geisha, Caturra, and Catuai. It is grown near Baru Volcano in Boquete and uses washed processing. Front Street believes this coffee bean performs very well in body, acidity, and floral aroma. These three varieties in Butterfly all come from the same origin and the same producing region, making it a single-origin bean. Caturra is a Bourbon variety, while Catuai is a hybrid Arabica variety, a cross between Mundo Novo and Caturra.

Panama Specialty Coffee Producing Regions and Geisha Grading, Plus Front Street Pour-Over Parameters Sharing

In the Panama region, Front Street also purchases high-quality Panamanian coffee beans from the Volcan producing region. Front Street has a Geisha variety called Janson, also known as the "Champagne of the coffee world." However, this one is relatively rarely heard of domestically, and it comes from the Volcan producing region. Front Street has learned that this is because Janson Estate mainly focuses on domestic sales and does not export. Even though Janson coffee is rarely mentioned, Front Street still chose to list it, partly because it wants to introduce excellent coffee from deep in the mountains to customers.

Coffee beans will not present completely different flavors just because of boundaries set by people. Front Street believes that the coffee flavors of the Boquete and Volcan regions both share a similarity in fruity and floral notes.

According to information Front Street has reviewed, in the early days the Volcan region mainly grew economic crops such as fruits and vegetables, and only a relatively small number of farmers grew Panamanian coffee. The first to grow coffee were the Hartmann family and the Janson family. The Hartmann Estate of the Hartmann family is also very well known, and Front Street has also listed a coffee from Hartmann Estate, using a relatively special red wine processing method (also known as carbonic maceration). This processing method is mainly achieved by controlling pH, temperature, and humidity, and its inspiration mainly comes from the winemaking process for red wine.

Customers familiar with Front Street know that the coffee beans listed by Front Street are not static. What Front Street provides is specialty coffee, with attention not only to raw materials but also to roast level. Front Street regularly tries coffee beans from different regions, and only considers listing each coffee bean when it is confirmed to have the representative flavor of that region.

1. Front Street Coffee (FrontStreet Coffee) Panama Butterfly Coffee Beans Coffee region: Panama, Boquete Altitude: 1,600 meters Varieties: Geisha, Caturra, Catuai Processing method: Washed Flavor: Citrus, floral, tea-like, honey, high sweetness

Panama Specialty Coffee Producing Regions and Geisha Grading, Plus Front Street Pour-Over Parameters Sharing

2. Front Street Coffee (FrontStreet Coffee) Panama Natural Blue Label Geisha Coffee Beans Growing origin: Panama, Boquete Coffee estate: Hacienda La Esmeralda Coffee grade: Blue Label Altitude: 1,500 meters Variety: Geisha Processing method: Natural Flavor: Peach, floral, cantaloupe, strawberry

3. Front Street Coffee (FrontStreet Coffee) Hacienda La Esmeralda Red Label Geisha Coffee Beans Region: Boquete (Bouquete) Estate: Hacienda La Esmeralda Altitude: 1,700 meters Processing method: Natural Variety: Geisha种Geisha Flavor: Lemon, honey, berry, orange peel, cream, citrus

Panama Specialty Coffee Producing Regions and Geisha Grading, Plus Front Street Pour-Over Parameters Sharing

4. Front Street Coffee (FrontStreet Coffee) Panama Elida Estate Coffee Beans Region: Boquete producing region, Panama Estate: Elida Estate Altitude: 1,850 meters Variety: Catuai Processing method: Natural Flavor: Fermented fruity acidity and jasmine floral notes, peach and orange acidity on the palate, obvious sucrose sweetness, with an overall fresh and sweet impression.

5. Front Street Coffee (FrontStreet Coffee) Panama Hartmann Coffee Beans Region: Volcan producing region Altitude: 1,250 meters-1,700 meters Processing method: Red wine processing Variety: Catuai Estate: Hartmann Estate Flavor: Rich wine aroma, high sweetness, lively and bright acidity; after cooling, brown sugar notes are more obvious.

Panama Specialty Coffee Producing Regions and Geisha Grading, Plus Front Street Pour-Over Parameters Sharing

6. Front Street Coffee (FrontStreet Coffee) Panama Janson Geisha Coffee Beans Region: Volcan producing region Processing method: Natural Annual rainfall: 3,000 mm Soil: Volcanic soil Flavor: Delicate berry charm, clean taste, honey, lychee flavor

Front Street Panama Geisha Pour-Over Parameters Details

Recommended brewing method: Pour-over

Dripper: Hario V60

Water temperature: 90-92℃

Grind size: Medium-fine (80% passing through a Chinese standard No. 20 sieve)

Coffee-to-water ratio: 1:15

[Brewing technique] Staged extraction. Bloom with 30 grams of water for 30 seconds, pour with a small stream until 130 grams for the stage break, then continue pouring when the water level is about to expose the coffee bed until reaching 225 grams to finish, and remove the dripper when the water level is about to expose the coffee bed. (Start timing at the beginning of the bloom.) Extraction time is about one minute and fifty seconds.

The above content is compiled by CoffeeHunters, a coffee news website.

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