Inside Costa Rica Tres Milagros Estate Coffee: how who grows coffee beans shapes the cup?
Finca Tres Milagros sits in Costa Rica's Tarrazu highlands at 1,450 to 1,750 meters, on volcanic ash soil from Irazu Volcano, and produces only about 300 bags of top-tier micro-lots a year. The estate grows Bourbon, F1 and Geisha, offering lots such as Bourbon Honey, F1 Natural, F1 Honey, Geisha Natural and Bourbon Washed.
The project began in 2013, when the Facusse family of Dinant partnered with Camilo, owner of Hacienda Santa Turriarco. Four principles guide the farm: the Green House System, intercropping symbiosis, shade-grown cultivation and selection of premium varieties. Low-density planting means fewer trees per hectare, and that spacing, combined with honey and natural processing, shapes the stone fruit, syrup, peach and citrus notes in the green coffee bean.
Finca Tres Milagros in Costa Rica was founded through a collaboration between Camilo, the owner of Hacienda Santa Turriarco, and the Facusse family of the Dinant company. It is located in the highlands of the Tarrazu region at an altitude of 1,450 to 1,750 meters, and is known for its volcanic ash soil and low-density planting, with an annual output of only about 300 bags of top-tier micro-lots. The estate practices four major principles: the Green House System, intercropping symbiosis, shade-grown cultivation, and the selection of premium varieties. It mainly cultivates varieties such as Bourbon, F1, and Geisha. Front Street Coffee recommends several single-origin coffees from the estate, including Bourbon Honey, F1 Natural, F1 Honey, Geisha Natural, and Bourbon Washed, with flavor profiles spanning stone fruits, syrup, peach, and citrus. This article provides a comprehensive analysis of the estate's background, varietal characteristics, and processing method differences, and further introduces the Costa Rican coffee industry and knowledge about honey processing.
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Costa Rica Finca Tres Milagros
In the specialty coffee world, whenever the name of Hacienda Santa Turriarco owner Camilo comes up, most people acknowledge his extraordinary passion for coffee cultivation and his daring innovative spirit, which over the years has made him a partner of many top-tier baristas worldwide. In 2013, the Facusse family behind Dinant, a company long engaged in food sales in Costa Rica, decided to leverage Camilo's mature experience running estates in Colombia and jointly launch a brand-new estate project in Costa Rica, naming it Finca Tres Milagros. Camilo believes that any successful estate must be built on the interplay and collaboration of three elements: coffee trees, farmers, and land. The estate's name derives from this idea.
When finalizing the Costa Rica estate plan, site selection was regarded as the most critical and decisive step. After repeated discussions and land evaluations, the highest-altitude producing region in Costa Rica, Tarrazu, was ultimately chosen. The estate is located at an altitude between 1,450 and 1,750 meters, with soil derived from volcanic ash from Irazu Volcano, which provides ample nutrients for the coffee trees. At the same time, Camilo also required the estate to maintain low-density coffee tree planting, which is more conducive to nutrient absorption and healthy growth of the coffee trees and also significantly helps improve cup quality. Currently, Finca Tres Milagros has a planting area of about 120 hectares, with an annual output of only about 300 bags of top-tier micro-lots. The estate's infrastructure is planned around four key points:
First, adopting the Green House System to provide more ideal humidity, temperature, and ventilation conditions for green coffee beans during the sun-drying stage.
Second, implementing an Intercrop System to enrich the estate's ecological diversity by planting different plants, while also helping farmers manage the farm ecosystem.
Third, promoting the Shade Grown System. Most of the estate uses Inga tree species, paired with some other local trees, so that the coffee trees remain in a good shaded environment throughout their entire growth process, protecting their normal development.
Fourth, choosing the right coffee varieties. From the very beginning of establishing the estate, Camilo decided to adopt traditional varieties with lower yields but superior flavors. In addition to Bourbon and Geisha, F1 is also a new variety developed in Costa Rica in recent years by the French research organization CIRAD. F1 is a cross of Villa Sarchi + Sachimor and Sudan Rume, carrying the flavors of the traditional Central American Villa Sarchi as well as the citrus notes of the African variety Sudan Rume.
Front Street Tres Milagros Bourbon Honey Finca Tres Milagros Bourbon Honey
■ Country: Costa Rica
■ Region: Dota, Tarrazu
■ Altitude: 1,450-1,750 meters
■ Processing Method: Honey
■ Grade: SHB
■ Variety: Bourbon
■ Flavor Description: Stone fruits, syrup, brown sugar, honey
Front Street Tres Milagros F1 Natural Finca Tres Milagros F1 Natural
■ Country: Costa Rica
■ Region: Dota, Tarrazu
■ Altitude: 1,450-1,750 meters
■ Processing Method: Natural
■ Grade: SHB
■ Variety: F1
■ Flavor Description: Peach, fruit juice, cranberry juice, good cleanliness
Front Street Tres Milagros F1 Honey Finca Tres Milagros F1 Honey
■ Country: Costa Rica
■ Region: Dota, Tarrazu
■ Altitude: 1,450-1,750 meters
■ Processing Method: Honey
■ Grade: SHB
■ Variety: F1
■ Flavor Description: Syrup, apricot, grape, apple juice, smoky finish
Front Street Tres Milagros Geisha Natural Finca Tres Milagros Geisha Natural
■ Country: Costa Rica
■ Region: Dota, Tarrazu
■ Altitude: 1,450-1,750 meters
■ Processing Method: Natural
■ Grade: SHB
■ Variety: Geisha
■ Flavor Description: Citrus peel, tangerine, clean, good sweetness
Front Street Finca Tres Milagros Bourbon Washed Finca Tres Milagros Bourbon Washed
■ Country: Costa Rica
■ Region: Dota, Tarrazu
■ Altitude: 1,450-1,750 meters
■ Processing Method: Washed
■ Grade: SHB
■ Variety: Bourbon
■ Flavor Description: Delicate floral notes in the front, stone fruits, chocolate, hazelnut, citrus, herbal aroma. In Costa Rica, other high-quality coffees include Juan Vinas, PR; H. Tournon; Windmill, SHB; Monte bello; Santa Rosa; FJO Sarchi
Note: Outstanding Costa Rican coffee beans are called "Strictly Hard Beans," and their grading standards are as follows:
Strictly Hard Beans SHB (Strictly Hard Beans) at altitudes above 1,200 meters (3,900 feet)
Good Hard Beans GHB (Good Hard Beans) at altitudes of 1,200–1,000 meters (3,900–3,300 feet)
Medium Hard Beans MHB (Medium Hard Beans) at altitudes of 1,000–500 meters (3,300–1,600 feet)
Clean sweetness and floral aroma
Front Street Costa Rican Coffee
Plump beans, ideal acidity, unique and intense aroma.
Tarrazu in Costa Rica is one of the world's major coffee-producing regions, producing coffee with a mild, pure flavor and a pleasant aroma. Costa Rica's volcanic soil is very fertile and has good drainage. It was the first country in Central America to grow coffee and bananas for commercial value. Coffee and bananas are the country's main export commodities. In 1729, coffee was introduced to Costa Rica from Cuba. Today, its coffee industry has become one of the most well-organized industries in the world, with yields reaching 1,700 kilograms per hectare. Costa Rica has a population of only 3.5 million but as many as 400 million coffee trees, and coffee exports account for 25% of the country's total exports. Costa Rica also benefits from the Central American Agricultural Research Institute (Turrialba of the Central American Agricultural Research Institute, or IAAC) located in Tarrazu, an important international research center.
High-quality Costa Rican coffee is called "Strictly Hard Beans," and this coffee can grow at altitudes above 1,500 meters. Altitude has always been a topic for coffee growers. The higher the altitude, the better the coffee beans, not only because higher altitudes can increase the acidity of the beans and thus enhance flavor, but also because nighttime temperatures at higher altitudes are lower, which slows tree growth and makes the coffee beans' flavor more intense. In addition, the temperature differences at high altitudes bring ample rainfall, which is also very beneficial to coffee tree growth. However, despite the many advantages of growing coffee at high altitudes, the additional transportation costs must be considered, which may well make coffee production unprofitable. Costa Rica's coffee industry has adopted new technologies to improve efficiency, including the use of "electronic eyes" to sort beans and identify beans of irregular size.
Tarrazu is located south of the capital, San Jose, and is one of the country's most valued coffee-growing areas. "La Minita Tarrazu" coffee is a local specialty, but its output is limited, at about 72,600 kilograms per year. It is grown on a piece of land called "La Minita," owned by the McAlpine family of the United Kingdom for the last three generations. In fact, this land can produce more than 450 tons of coffee per year. However, La Minita Tarrazu coffee is grown without artificial fertilizers or pesticides, and harvesting and sorting are done entirely by hand, to avoid the damage that air-jet sorting may cause to the coffee beans to some extent.
Other coffees worth mentioning include: Juan Vinas, PR, H. Tournon, Windmill, SHB, Monte bello, and Santa Rosa. Premium coffee generally grows in Heredia and the Central Valley. Another noteworthy coffee is Sarchi coffee (Sarchi is one of the five towns representing Costa Rica's "Coffee Route"), which grows on the slopes of Poas Volcano, 53 kilometers from San Jose. The Sarchi company was founded in 1949, with a land area of 30,770 hectares, growing sugarcane and coffee. This area is also famous for handicrafts, attracting tourists from all over the world.
Why is honey processing so wonderful?
When honey processing is so difficult to do well and so time-consuming, you might wonder whether all of it is really worth it.
Without a doubt, it is very much worth it.
Honey-processed coffee generally has a great balance of sweetness and fruity acidity. Its flavor is generally not as intense as natural coffee, but it is fresher and more mellow. Why not?
The key to this flavor difference comes from the sugars and acidity in the mucilage layer. During drying, the sugars in the mucilage layer become more and more concentrated, and these sugars seep into the coffee beans.
What is the difference between yellow honey, red honey, and black honey processing?
When you want to buy honey-processed coffee, you usually have choices such as yellow honey, red honey, and black honey. You may also have heard how much of the mucilage layer these honey processing methods respectively retain, but what exactly do these things mean?
Coffee farmers will classify the coffee. Some retain less mucilage, which allows for faster drying, while others retain more mucilage and require longer drying time. Yellow honey (retaining about 25% of the mucilage layer) must be dried in an environment with minimal shade (clouds, shade trees) to finish more quickly and obtain a yellow appearance. Red honey (retaining about 50% of the mucilage layer) takes longer and requires some shade for drying. Black honey (retaining about 100% of the mucilage layer) usually needs to be covered during drying in order to extend the drying time.
Yellow honey, red honey, and black honey processed coffee (from left to right)
Which is better: yellow honey, red honey, or black honey?
Black honey may be better. The flavor of honey-processed coffee is influenced in a more refined and profound way by the sugars remaining in the mucilage layer. The more mucilage remains, the more intense the flavor. (This is the view of the original author of this article. Coffee Seedling believes that each processing method has its own distinctive flavor, and preferences vary from person to person.)
However, coffee producers must face another commercial consideration. Although black honey processing can produce better-quality and better-priced coffee, the risks and costs also rise substantially, which may affect farmers' willingness to use black honey processing. The longer the coffee is dried, the more easily bacteria breed during fermentation, resulting in moldy defective beans. The beans need to be turned more frequently and also occupy more drying space, up to twice as much as yellow honey processing. It is not just about making high-quality coffee, but also about enabling coffee farmers to produce the most profitable coffee.
So what does honey processing mean to you?
Roaster: The key to honey processing is consistency in body and flavor
The challenge roasters often face is how to formulate a blend or maintain a certain blend's flavor as much as possible. This means not only understanding honey processing, but also understanding other processing methods, which helps with blending. It allows for more accurate substitution of beans, the creation of new blends, and narrowing down the flavor choices to fill in when replacing beans.
However, it still depends on conditions such as region, processing method, and growing altitude, with many different variables influencing and changing the outcome. As for the final coffee, do not buy blindly just because it is honey-processed coffee. It may have great sweetness, acidity, and fruity finish, but it will not always be the same every time.
Barista: Knowledge about coffee is valuable
Baristas make good coffee for everyone every day, and knowing how coffee is grown, processed, harvested, and roasted from the very beginning will be of great help to baristas in making better-flavored coffee. With a thorough understanding, you may even create a delicious taste you yourself have never experienced. Every cup of coffee is unique. A coffee shop's blend with rich chocolate and caramel flavors may, before blending, consist of a single-origin natural Ethiopian coffee with high sweetness and low acidity.
Know yourself and know your coffee. Absorb knowledge from all sides with a seeking mind, not only for yourself but also for consumers. If you can tell consumers why natural Ethiopian coffee is much sweeter than the washed Indonesian Sumatra coffee they drank last week, consumers will be willing to return to your coffee shop. People are curious to learn, and when they believe that the barista around them knows what they want, they will come back to the shop.
The country's coffee industry was originally controlled by the Costa Rican Coffee Industry Corporation (Instituto del Cafe de Costa Rica, abbreviated ICAFE), and has now been taken over by the Official Coffee Committee (Oficina del Cafe). Among exported coffee, products deemed substandard are colored with blue vegetable dye and then returned to the domestic market for sale. Coffee consumed domestically (dyed blue or undyed) accounts for about 10% of total production. Local per capita coffee consumption is twice that of Italy or the United States.
About Costa Rican Coffee Beans (Central America)
Tarrazu, Costa Rica, is one of the largest coffee-producing regions in the world. It is located in Costa Rica's Central Valley, south of the capital, San Jose, and has very rich high-mountain volcanic soil. Tarrazu is one of Costa Rica's four high-quality coffee-growing regions. The other three very important coffee-growing regions include Tres Rios, Heredia, and Alajuela.
The coffee produced in Tarrazu has a mild, pure flavor with bright acidity and citrus or berry-like aromas. Coffee produced in this region enjoys extremely high praise in the international coffee market. In Tarrazu there is a very hard-to-buy gourmet coffee bean, La Minita Tarrazu. Its coffee production is limited, at about 72,600 kilograms (160,000 pounds) per year. It is grown on a piece of land called La Minita, owned by the last three generations of the British McAlpine family. The main reason it is so highly regarded is that La Minita Tarrazu is grown without artificial fertilizers or pesticides, and its harvesting and sorting are also done entirely by hand (the reason for this is to avoid the damage that air-jet sorting may cause to the coffee beans to some extent).
Costa Rica Honey Process
If you like coffee with a light, tea-like body and a clean, sweet taste, with flavors like honeydew along with slight floral notes, lemon, and nutty flavors, then honey-processed beans from Costa Rica in Central America may suit your taste. So-called honey processing means first using a pulper to remove the outer skin of the coffee cherry, and then placing the parchment green beans with mucilage on raised beds for sun drying. This water-saving processing method can make the coffee taste sweeter.
Located in Costa Rica's fertile volcanic Central Valley, the Zamora estate in San Isidro de Heredia is the champion farm of Costa Rica's 2012 C.O.E. coffee competition. The farm is owned by the Rodriguez Carballo family, who have been engaged in coffee production since 1880. This coffee has a complex flavor with floral notes and ripe, juicy fruit flavors, and a very clean body.
La Minita is considered a world-class famous estate. In the minds of some coffee industry people and baristas, it is top-tier, because last year's WBC champion, Klaus Thomsen of Denmark, used La Minita as the main espresso component and also used it for the structural flavor of a creative beverage. This year in Tokyo, competitors indeed still used it.
Starting this year, the McAlpin family has used [La Minita] as the common quality-control mark for all green beans of the group. All green beans exported by the group have the mark stamped across the seam on the burlap bags. Below are the newly arrived La Minita and the mark:
The McAlpin family began operating La Minita in 1967. It can be said that any discussion of specialty coffee estates will certainly mention "La Minita"! In recent years, in SCAA and SCAE cupping courses, instructors almost every time they list flavors or specialty beans mention La Minita. Moreover, La Minita has not only sold well in Europe for more than 50 years but also enjoys a fairly high reputation in the American market!
La Minita has become famous over the years for 7 major characteristics:
【1】Superior geographical conditions and microclimate: Tarrazu is Costa Rica's most famous producing region, but La Minita has two major rivers, the Tarrazu River and the Alumbre River, which converge in the mountainous area west of the estate, fully regulating temperature. The estate's west-facing advantage gives the farm favorable conditions: mornings are not too cold and evenings do not cool too quickly. Rainfall is very well distributed, with moderate rainfall irrigation from flowering through fruiting. High-quality clay soil provides ample nutrients. An average altitude of 4,000 to 6,000 feet gives the beans enough hardness and high sweetness!
The image below shows the rivers in the estate area and the spectacular waterfall:
【2】Selecting good varieties: The estate has coffee varieties such as Caturra, Catuai red, Catuai yellow, and Hibrido (that is, hybrid varieties). After cupping quality and statistical screening, it currently focuses on Caturra and a small amount of old Hibrido.
【3】Strict quality control (1) A rotation planting and tree replacement system is adopted. All coffee trees are rotated on a five-year cycle, meaning that after four years of harvest, in the fifth year they must be cut back to trees of only 50 centimeters to rest and grow again before harvesting! The farm has a total of 1.5 million trees, and on average 350,000 trees must be cut back for rest each year! In addition to rotation planting, trees must also be replaced! Each coffee tree is harvested for only 15 years, and after 15 years it is replaced with a new plant to ensure quality. Each year 150,000 trees must be replaced, and shade trees are also planted around the coffee trees to grow these coffee trees under shade.
【4】The procedures at the wet processing plant are very rigorous, and after processing, sun drying is used first, followed by machine drying in the later stage.
The image below shows an aerial view of the wet processing plant and some of its equipment
【5】The elimination rate of green beans exceeds 70%, meaning that fewer than 29% of green beans can be sold under the La Minita estate bean label
【6】In the final sorting stage of green beans, 30,000 labor hours are used for careful selection, and only those that pass can use the La Minita label.
The manual sorting shown in the image below is the final stage
【7】Dedication! For example, great care is taken in the three major stages of Harvesting, Pruning, and processing. During the harvest period, La Minita's coffee trees are typically harvested in batches about 5 times, because only the ripest cherries are picked, and batch harvesting means labor-intensive work and also requires great patience. Pruning refers to rotation planting. This system ensures that the land does not become overly depleted and that the quality of green beans can remain at its peak without the need for chemical fertilizers to force fertilization. Processing refers to the post-harvest processing of coffee cherries. In 2001, La Minita acquired its own wet processing plant, also for the purpose of maintaining consistently adhered-to quality.
The image shows the estate manager introducing the coffee trees and the cultivation and pruning process; on the other side are La Minita beans being bagged:
This year La Minita's spice sweetness and berry character remain! And its clean, varied flavor broadly maintains its usual style. In particular, this year more competitors in the Tokyo WBC used it as a blend component, and with each displaying their own strengths, it further showcased its fascinating diverse flavors. This is La Minita!
Below is the 2007 La Minita cupping report: (Osher M0 roast level, roasted on a Japanese Fuji 1-kilogram roaster, dropped at 11 minutes)
Country: Costa Rica Region: Tarrazu Estate: La Minita
Harvest Period: February 2007
Variety: Caturra, old Hibrido Processing Method: Washed fermentation, then sun drying followed by low-temperature drying
Grade: SHB Appearance/Defect Count: Green 0d/350g
Dry Aroma: A delicate perfume-like scent, high-mountain tea aroma, candy sweetness, berry acidity, apple, grape, clean and elegant aroma
Wet Aroma: Multiple berry notes, caramel, cream, floral notes, slight spice notes
Sipping: Berry-lime acidity, caramel, good oily body, delicate apple aroma in the nasal cavity, melon, tea aroma, sweet-and-sour pomelo, clean finish with a unique spicy sweetness, and the mouthfeel in the aftertaste is not astringent and is quite salivating.
Price
Bulk Discount Price (Description)
Costa Rica Tarrazu SHB Montanas del Diamante Estate
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Linking Coffee, which specializes in the import and sale of green coffee beans from various countries, added a new Costa Rica Tarrazu Diamond Mountain Estate to its April quotation list, marked as high-mountain strictly hard beans grown at an altitude of 1,800 meters. Although it is packed in burlap bags, it has multiple plastic inner bags (GrainPro Bag), so the quality should be of a certain standard. The price is also approachable, so I first roasted a small 5-kilogram package to try it.
At the same time, the information found online about Costa Rica Diamond Mountain is as follows:
ORIGIN: Costa Rica
REGION: Tarrazu
SUBREGION: Dota Valley
PRODUCER: Montanas Del Diamante Estate/Gutierrez Family
PLANT SPECIES: Arabica
PROCESSING METHOD: Washed
PROCESSING DESCRIPTION: The coffee is fully washed and patio dried.
WET MILL NAME: Montanas del Diamante Mill
COFFEE GRADE: SHB EP
SCREEN SIZE: 15 Up
GROWING ALTITUDE: 1750-1850m
ANNUAL RAINFALL (MM): 250
SOIL TYPE: Volcanic
PLANT VARIETAL(S): Red Catuai
TYPES: Estate Coffees, Grain Pro / Ecotact
Another website also mentions that most of the varieties grown here are Red Catuai, which is a cross between Caturra and Mundo Novo. This batch of green beans is not large in size, around screen size 15. I wonder if this is a characteristic of this variety?
This time it was not roasted very light. The roast level was about 3 minutes after first crack before dropping, so the overall acidity is much gentler and the aroma is not very prominent, which can be smelled from the green beans. However, the cleanliness of the body is quite satisfying, with a smooth citrus-like acidity that even friends who do not drink much acidic coffee should be able to accept. The later-stage brown sugar molasses sweetness and cocoa notes linger in the mouth for a long time before fading.
In recent years, Costa Rica has never disappointed, and its C/P value has left Guatemala far behind. Whether made as a single origin or included in a blend, it is a good choice.
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Have you ever wondered what coffee honey processing is? (This article discusses only red honey processing.) Is it better tasting than coffee processed by other methods you are used to drinking?
This article will explore what honey processing is, what characteristics honey processing has, and what different meanings honey processing has for baristas and roasters.
Why is it called honey processing?
Coffee processing methods are mainly divided into three major categories: natural, washed, and honey. The natural method directly sun-dries coffee cherries before removing the husk and mucilage layer. The washed method removes the coffee pulp before drying and uses fermentation to remove the mucilage layer. The honey method lies between the natural and washed methods: after removing the coffee pulp, the mucilage layer is directly retained and sun-dried.
Then you may ask, where is the honey?
The term honey processing makes many people think that this processing method uses honey to process the coffee, or that coffee processed this way tastes as sweet as honey, but in fact neither explanation is correct. Honey processing refers to the sticky mucilage layer on the coffee beans before drying, which feels sticky like honey. When the coffee pulp is separated from the coffee beans, the surrounding mucilage layer absorbs moisture from the air during drying and becomes sticky.
When the coffee pulp is removed, the mucilage layer remains around the coffee beans.
Why is honey processing popular among coffee farmers?
Honey processing began when someone saw that using this processing method could continuously improve the quality of their coffee beans. It originated in Costa Rica, and this processing method is now very popular.
So why did Costa Rican coffee farmers initially plan to use honey processing? When coffee farmers want to improve their coffee quality or selling price, they have three choices: change the coffee tree variety, change the growing altitude, or change the processing method. Just as most people brewing coffee will want to use simpler methods such as adjusting the grind setting and dose, and only then adjust the coffee machine's water volume, pressure, and temperature, most coffee farmers also want to change the processing method first, and only then consider planting new varieties or relocating the estate, which require investment of time and money.
Honey processing is time-consuming and demanding in technique
Honey processing is not simple. It takes a long time and must be handled carefully. So what steps does honey processing include?
First, coffee farmers must select ripe coffee cherries from the trees, then remove the outer pulp and, as mentioned earlier, retain the mucilage layer around the coffee beans. The mucilage layer retains a high proportion of sugars and acidity, and these sweetness and acidity components are the key to honey processing.
The next step is the most complex and demanding part of honey processing: drying. The timing must be well controlled, and the length of time is key. If the drying time is too short, the substances in the mucilage layer cannot be transferred into the coffee beans. But the time also cannot be too long, and the process must be quick to avoid internal fermentation of the beans and moldy beans.
So how do you achieve balance? The beans are placed on raised drying beds or concrete floors. For the first few days, the beans must be turned several times every hour until the required moisture content is reached. This step usually takes 6-10 hours. Over the following 6-8 days, they must be turned at least once a day. Very time-consuming, right? The reason honey-processed coffee takes so long to sun-dry is that every night the beans absorb moisture from the air, so the next day requires even more time to dry.
After the coffee is finished drying, it can then be dried and roasted just like coffee processed by other methods.
Honey-processed coffee is being sun-dried on a concrete floor
The above content is compiled by CoffeeHunters, a coffee news website.
