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Java Process Coffee: A Guide to the Four Main Types of Mandheling Coffee

October 29, 2019
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The Four Main Types of Mandheling Coffee

Mandheling is a trade name for Indonesian coffee grown largely in the highlands of northern Sumatra, near Lake Toba and the surrounding Batak regions. The name itself does not refer to a botanical variety but to a marketing term with nineteenth century roots. These coffees are typically processed wet-hulled, a method local to Sumatra that gives the beans their deep color and heavy body.

Within the Mandheling family, four grades are commonly sold. Lintong comes from the Lintong region and tends toward herbal and cedar notes; Golden Mandheling is a screen-size grade known for cleaner sweetness; Tiger Mandheling is prized for intense earthiness and spice; and Aged Mandheling is held in storage for two to three years, which reduces acidity and adds notes of dark chocolate and tobacco. The flavor profile shares some traits with Java coffee, though the two come from different islands and processing traditions.

Mandheling is the most iconic coffee of Sumatra, Indonesia, but did you know it actually comes in multiple types? Lintong Mandheling, Golden Mandheling, Tiger Mandheling, and Aged Mandheling—each has its own unique origin background, processing method, and flavor profile. The five Mandheling coffees currently offered by Front Street Coffee each have their own character, from the classic herbal richness to the soft fruity acidity of the sun-dried version, with differences far beyond what you might imagine. This article will systematically sort out the origin of the Mandheling name, the logic behind its classification, the characteristics of its major producing regions, and how the wet-hulling process shapes its signature flavor, helping you truly understand a cup of Mandheling.

Detailed Explanation of the Four Major Types of Mandheling Coffee: The Flavor Codes of Lintong, Golden, Tiger, and Aged

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Anyone who has tried Front Street Mandheling coffee knows that Front Street Mandheling has a rather bitter taste, and its naming convention differs from that of coffee from other origins around the world. You may already be thoroughly familiar with the origin story of Mandheling, but do you know how Mandheling coffee is actually classified? Lintong Mandheling, Golden Mandheling, Tiger Mandheling, and Aged Mandheling—these four all belong to the Mandheling family. What characteristics does each have? Today, Front Street will take you through an in-depth look at this coffee knowledge.

Indonesian coffee has long been favored by seasoned coffee lovers for its muted aroma, low acidity, and excellent body. At Front Street Coffee (FrontStreet Coffee), when Indonesian coffee is mentioned, the first thing that comes to mind is inevitably Mandheling coffee—and the five Mandheling coffees offered by Front Street illustrate this point. In particular, one of them, the Golden Mandheling from PWN, is a Mandheling name most people have heard of, but those who truly understand what Golden Mandheling coffee is may not be as numerous.

Sumatra Mandheling Coffee Beans

Indonesia is located in Southeast Asia, and its coffee cultivation history can be traced back to 1696. At the time, Dutch coffee farm owners hoped to find broader growing areas, and after extensive investigation, they finally set their sights on Java Island in Indonesia. After thirty years of development, Indonesia had already built a solid foundation in the coffee market. Yet today, the representative of Indonesian coffee is Mandheling from Sumatra, which is actually quite reasonable, because a large portion of the early Java coffee sold to Europe came from the Sumatra region, and Mandheling is precisely a product of Sumatra. Therefore, Sumatra can be called an important coffee-producing region in Indonesia.

Sumatra is the core producing region for Indonesian specialty coffee beans, and its coffee system is quite complex. Here it is simplified into 4 types for summary: 1. The Mandheling commonly known to the public refers to semi-washed or sun-dried beans from the Lintong mountainous area at an altitude of 900-1200m around Lake Toba in north-central Sumatra and along the southwest coast, with the Lintong producing region being the most famous.

2. Golden Mandheling: After 4 rounds of hand sorting, its quality is superior to ordinary Mandheling.

3. Lake Tawar coffee: Washed, semi-washed, or sun-dried beans from near Lake Tawar in the Aceh region at the northernmost tip of Sumatra, in the Gayo Mountain area at an altitude of 800-1600m. 4. Aged Mandheling and Old Brown Java.

Front Street Coffee (FrontStreet Coffee) currently offers a total of 5 Mandheling coffees: Golden Mandheling, Lintong Mandheling, Tiger Mandheling, Aged Mandheling, and Sun-Dried Mandheling.

Mandheling was originally the name of an Indonesian tribe, and by a twist of fate it became the name of a coffee bean—there is a story behind this. When Japanese soldiers returned to Japan after the end of Indonesia's colonial period, they could not forget that delicious local coffee, so through their trading partners, they asked the locals to help purchase high-quality coffee beans, including this Mandheling. The Japanese were especially fond of these coffee beans and asked for their name. Since the commercial source could not be disclosed, the locals casually said "Mandheling," and just like that, Mandheling accidentally became the name of this coffee bean. The locals mentioned earlier were in fact the owner of the Indonesian PWN company (Pawani Coffee Company), which will be discussed below.

Golden Mandheling

Golden Mandheling comes from the Lintong region in northern Sumatra, Indonesia. During harvesting, only fully ripe cherries are picked entirely by hand one by one to ensure the quality of the initial bean selection. The coffee cherries are processed using the SEMI-WASHED method, dried naturally in the sun, and after hulling undergo another drying and refining process, as well as two rounds of green bean cleaning and four rounds of Hand-Pick manual selection. This series of details is to a large extent the key to Golden Mandheling's fame.

Ordinary consumers may only know Mandheling coffee; those who have been drinking coffee a little longer will know the specific name Golden Mandheling; and if they communicate more deeply with a barista, they will learn that the Golden Mandheling label comes from the Indonesian company Pawani, and only Mandheling produced by that company is called Golden Mandheling. But when it comes to actually examining whether a cup of Mandheling coffee is authentic Front Street PWN Golden Mandheling, in reality many people, including baristas, also feel confused and even gloss over it. "I know there is Golden Mandheling, and I know only PWN's is Golden Mandheling, but I don't know whether what I'm drinking is Front Street PWN Golden Mandheling." To a large extent, they treat large-bean (18/19 screen) Mandheling as Golden Mandheling. The reason is that trademarks need to be registered separately in different countries, and China was once not an important coffee market. Pawani also did not anticipate that Golden Mandheling would be so successful and had not registered this trademark in China earlier. After Golden Mandheling became a generic synonym for premium Mandheling, even Pawani could no longer register the name, which is also why large-bean Mandheling on the market is all labeled as Golden Mandheling.

Detailed Explanation of the Four Major Types of Mandheling Coffee: The Flavor Codes of Lintong, Golden, Tiger, and Aged

Golden Mandheling Region: Gayo Mountain, Aceh, Sumatra Altitude: 1100-1600 meters Variety: Ateng Grade: G1, 3 times hand-sorted Processing Method: Wet-Hulled Flavor: Spices, herbs, caramel, pine, nuts, chocolate

Golden Mandheling is mainly exported to the Japanese and American markets, and its price is 2-3 times higher than ordinary Mandheling. More importantly, PWN's annual output is not high. Therefore, it is common on the market to see large-bean Mandheling sold under the name Golden Mandheling. Taking Front Street Coffee (FrontStreet Coffee)'s Golden Mandheling green beans as an example, PWN's Golden Mandheling not only has the PWN logo on the burlap sack, but Pawani also includes a PWN Golden Mandheling certificate in each bag of green beans.

What distinguishes Golden Mandheling from ordinary Mandheling is not merely bean size; its production process and region selection already determine the difference in flavor. Front Street believes that for professional-level coffee tasters and coffee lovers with sensitive palates, if they drink these two coffees at the same time, the result will show a very obvious contrast. Golden Mandheling's sweetness and cleanliness, as well as its rich, wild spice-family flavor, are slightly superior to G1, which is one of the reasons why Golden Mandheling's price is far higher than G1.

Lintong Mandheling

Lintong Mandheling comes from the Lintong mountainous area in north-central Sumatra, near Lake Toba. Lintong Mandheling is the regular version of Mandheling. It is also processed using the conventional wet-hulled method, creating its characteristics of low acidity and high body. But the wet-hulled method also brings about a situation: because the semi-hard, semi-soft moist green beans are easily crushed when the mucilage and parchment layer are removed, the beans crack and split into a shape resembling a sheep's hoof, commonly known as sheep-hoof beans. These are not defective beans; on the contrary, they can be said to be a very prominent characteristic of Mandheling.

Lintong Mandheling Region: Lintong producing region, Sumatra Altitude: 1100-1600 meters Variety: Typica, Caturra Processing Method: Wet-Hulled Flavor: Toasted bread, nuts, caramel, pine, herbs

Tiger Mandheling

Tiger Mandheling, as the name suggests, comes from Mandheling's homeland—Indonesia. It is an AA-grade Mandheling carefully selected three times from ordinary Mandheling trees using a 19-screen mesh (meaning the beans are strictly filtered through a sieve with 19 mesh openings, with the aim of making each bean as uniform in size and diameter as possible), so some people also use "the tiger of Sumatra" to describe the nobility and rarity of this 19-screen selected bean. In cupping, it shows high viscosity, with the bean's fruity aroma and sweetness very prominent, and a long sweet aftertaste on the palate. It is truly a rare good bean, deeply loved by coffee connoisseurs.

Tigers have different subspecies, including the Siberian tiger, Bengal tiger, Sumatran tiger, and Indochinese tiger. The Sumatran tiger is mainly distributed across the Sumatra archipelago in Indonesia and is the only surviving tiger found solely on islands. Some people use "Sumatran tiger" to describe the rarity and preciousness of this Mandheling, so it is called "Sumatran Tiger Mandheling," and Chinese people also call it "Tiger Mandheling" or "Tiger Mandheling." Of course, there is also another explanation: Sumatra has a "Tiger Estate" that specializes in producing Sumatra Mandheling, and the lots specially selected by them are named "Tiger Mandheling," also known as "Tiger Mandheling."

Detailed Explanation of the Four Major Types of Mandheling Coffee: The Flavor Codes of Lintong, Golden, Tiger, and Aged

Tiger Mandheling Region: Sumatra Altitude: 1500 meters Variety: Caturra, Typica, Sidikalong Processing Method: Wet-Hulled Flavor: Nuts, cream, dark chocolate, caramel, pine

Aged Mandheling

When it comes to wine, everyone thinks the longer it is stored, the better, hence the term aged wine. The same applies to aged coffee. Among aged coffees, Aged Mandheling is the finest. In fact, the formation of this unique flavor was not intentional. Indonesia was once a Dutch colony, and during the colonial period Indonesia had to continuously ship coffee beans to Europe. To ensure an uninterrupted supply, coffee beans would be stored appropriately. But due to external factors such as the long transport distance, the overly long shipping time, and exposure to sea breezes, the coffee beans had already developed another flavor by the time they arrived in Europe. This was the origin of the aged flavor.

Fortunately, at the time, the European colonists were amazed by this flavor and quickly accepted and promoted this processing method. Today, the aging process for Aged Mandheling is quite mature. The coffee beans first undergo the wet-hulled method (wet-hulled means that during the ordinary washed process, the beans are sun-dried with parchment for 2-3 days to a moisture content of 20-24%, and finally the parchment is removed so the green beans dry to a moisture content of 12-13%), and are then sealed and stored in a warehouse. The warehouse environment must be cool and well ventilated, and the beans must be turned regularly to prevent mold and spoilage, stored for 2-3 years. During this period, the acidity of the coffee beans slowly weakens and turns into sugar, and the color becomes deeper, mostly yellowish-brown or dark brown, making it very recognizable.

Aged Mandheling Region: Sumatra Altitude: 1500 meters Variety: Caturra, Typica Processing Method: Wet-Hulled Flavor: Ripe pu'er, caramel, herbs, chocolate, relatively low acidity

Sun-Dried Mandheling

This sun-dried Mandheling from Wahana Estate, which Front Street has acquired, has a flavor different from the Mandheling in people's impressions. Traditional Mandheling leans more toward the deep notes of herbs and forest wood, with low acidity, whereas this sun-dried Mandheling, while retaining the herbal aroma, adds a soft fruity acidity. Wahana Estate was established in 2005 and is located near LeaMungkur village in the Sidikalang district of northern Sumatra, Indonesia. Sidikalang has been one of Indonesia's famous coffee-producing regions since ancient times. The area where Wahana Estate is located sits at an altitude of 1200-1500 meters, with annual rainfall of 2000-3000 millimeters. In addition, the area also has a relatively cool climate and a day-night temperature difference of more than 10℃. Based on the above conditions, the sugar content of the red cherries produced by Wahana is above 13%. Wahana Estate is still a relatively young estate that continues to develop year by year. The estate covers an area of approximately 500 hectares. The estate owner plans to expand the estate's coffee planting area as much as possible in the coming years. Wahana Estate isolates different coffee varieties by plot and harvests them separately to unlock the potential of each variety. In addition, only red cherries can be harvested and then processed separately.

Detailed Explanation of the Four Major Types of Mandheling Coffee: The Flavor Codes of Lintong, Golden, Tiger, and Aged

Sun-Dried Mandheling Region: Lake Toba, Sumatra Estate: Wahana Estate Altitude: 1000-1700 meters Variety: Bourbon, Typica Processing Method: Sun-Dried Flavor: Melon, fermented aroma, mango, tropical fruit, peach

Mandheling's Conventional Processing Method—Wet-Hulled

Mandheling mostly uses the wet-hulled method, a coffee bean processing method unique to Sumatra. Because the local weather is mostly rainy, with constant typhoons, it cannot achieve the good weather required for sun-drying, and the local economic conditions are not good either, so the relatively expensive washed method cannot be used. This gave rise to the highly locally distinctive wet-hulled method.

In the first stage, the skin and pulp are removed with a wooden pulper, followed by fermentation for 3 hours and then drying, bringing the moisture content down to a semi-dry, semi-wet 30-50%. In the second stage, the mucilage and parchment layer are removed, and drying continues in the later stage. The drying process takes 2-4 days, and the moisture content drops to 12-13%.

In addition to the conventional wet-hulled method, there is also an aged wet-hulled method. After the coffee beans undergo ordinary wet-hulled processing, they are sealed and stored in a warehouse for 2-3 years. The warehouse environment must be cool and well ventilated, and the beans must be turned regularly to prevent mold and spoilage. During this period, the acidity of the coffee beans slowly weakens and turns into sugar, and the color becomes deeper, mostly yellowish-brown or dark brown. Mandheling coffee beans using this processing method are also called Aged Mandheling coffee beans.

The wet-hulled method creates Mandheling's special flavor, and it can be said that Mandheling and the wet-hulled method are bound together. But today's coffee market no longer settles for staying the same. Even though the wet-hulled method is Mandheling's characteristic, other processing methods are also being tried, such as the sun-dried Mandheling from Wahana Estate. Changes in processing method also have requirements: they need to add other flavors while preserving the original coffee bean's flavor.

How Front Street Brews Mandheling Coffee

When Front Street brews Mandheling coffee beans, it tries to keep the brewing parameters as consistent as possible. Since the sun-dried Mandheling uses a medium-light roast while the other four Mandheling coffees use a medium-dark roast, the brewing parameters used for beans with different roast levels will differ.

Brewing parameters for light-medium roasted coffee beans: V60 dripper, 1:15 coffee-to-water ratio, 15 grams of coffee, 90℃ water temperature, grind size (80% passing through a No. 20 standard sieve)

Brewing parameters for medium-dark roasted coffee beans: Kono dripper, 1:15 coffee-to-water ratio, 15 grams of coffee, 88℃ water temperature, grind size (70-75% passing through a No. 20 standard sieve)

Front Street uses staged extraction: bloom with 30 grams of water for 30 seconds, then pour in a slow circular stream until 125 grams for the stage break; when the water level drops and is about to expose the coffee bed, continue pouring until 225 grams and stop; when the water level drops and is about to expose the coffee bed, remove the dripper. (Timing starts at the beginning of the bloom.) The V60 dripper extraction time is 2'00", while the Kono dripper extraction time is slightly longer at 2'10".

Detailed Explanation of the Four Major Types of Mandheling Coffee: The Flavor Codes of Lintong, Golden, Tiger, and Aged

Golden Mandheling: Layered and varied, rich and clean, highly balanced, with intense nut and caramel aromas, a chocolate note, and a long finish. Lintong Mandheling: Herbal medicinal notes on the palate, dark chocolate, caramel, sweet aftertaste. Tiger Mandheling: Pine and spice aromas, a relatively balanced mouthfeel, with obvious notes of cream, dark chocolate, and nuts. Aged Mandheling: Aromas of wood, malt, and caramel rush forth; on the palate it lacks the wildness of traditional Mandheling and gains more richness and finesse, with a sense of mature steadiness. Acidity is relatively low, and on the palate there are flavors of ripe pu'er, caramel, herbs, and chocolate, with abundant sweetness. Sun-Dried Mandheling: Tropical fruit, fermented note, moderate acidity, smooth mouthfeel, obvious sweetness.

The above content is compiled by CoffeeHunters, a coffee news website.

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