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Hacienda La Esmeralda Diamond Mountain Caturra and Geisha Coffee Guide

April 30, 2021
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How does Esmeralda Caturra differ from geisha coffe?

Panama's Hacienda La Esmeralda is known for geisha coffe, but the estate also runs separate brands for Caturra and Catuai: Diamond Mountain and Palmyra. The naturally processed Caturra from Diamond Mountain grows between 1400 and 1700 meters in Boquete and shows a distinctly different profile from the estate's floral geisha, with its own acidity, sweetness and body.

Founded in 1964, the estate gained notice in 2004 when its geisha won at the BOP competition. The trees were first planted as a windbreak for the higher-yielding Caturra and Catuai plots; a floral aroma during harvest led to their discovery. Green bean analysis, roasting records and cupping, plus V60 parameters, give a full reference for brewing.

In the specialty coffee world, Panama's Hacienda La Esmeralda is famous for its Geisha variety, but the estate's emphasis on Caturra and Catuai is equally noteworthy. Hacienda La Esmeralda has established two separate brands for these two varieties: Diamond Mountain and Palmyra. This article focuses on the naturally processed Caturra coffee beans from the Diamond Mountain series, covering their growing region background, variety characteristics, processing method, and brewing performance. Through green bean analysis, roasting records, and cupping, Front Street Coffee presents the distinctly different flavor profile of this bean compared to Geisha, while also introducing the brewing logic and parameter recommendations for the V60 dripper, providing a complete reference for coffee enthusiasts.

Panama Hacienda La Esmeralda Diamond Mountain Series: Grading and Flavor Analysis of Natural Caturra and Catuai Varieties

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Hacienda La Esmeralda has established independent brand lines for the Caturra and Catuai varieties grown on the estate, namely Diamond Mountain and Palmyra. The subject of this article is the naturally processed Caturra coffee beans from the Diamond Mountain series, using them to compare exactly what differences exist between Hacienda La Esmeralda's Caturra and Catuai and its Geisha coffee beans.

Front Street Coffee (FrontStreet Coffee): Panama Hacienda La Esmeralda—— Naturally Processed Diamond Mountain Coffee Beans

Coffee Region: Boquete

Coffee Estate: Hacienda La Esmeralda

Growing Altitude: 1400-1700m

Coffee Variety: Catuai, Caturra

Processing Method: Natural Process

Hacienda La Esmeralda Estate

Hacienda La Esmeralda is a household name in the specialty coffee circle. Founded in 1964, it has now passed the fifty-year mark. In 2004, Hacienda La Esmeralda's Geisha coffee beans shot to fame at the BOP competition, establishing the estate's benchmark status in the specialty coffee world.

The discovery of Hacienda La Esmeralda's Geisha coffee was quite dramatic. Initially, because the Geisha coffee trees were tall and thin with sparse leaves and low yields, the estate owner assigned them as a windbreak to block strong winds and protect the Caturra and Catuai coffee in other high-yield areas. During harvest season, the owner faintly detected a captivating floral aroma, and following that clue, found Geisha coffee trees growing well and emitting floral and orange aromas in the windy, cooler windbreak area. In 2004, Hacienda La Esmeralda entered Geisha separately in the competition, becoming an overnight sensation at the BOP competition and establishing the estate's position in the specialty coffee world ever since.

Caturra & Catuai Varieties

As Front Street just mentioned, the varieties that Hacienda La Esmeralda first introduced and primarily cultivated were Caturra and Catuai. Caturra is a Bourbon mutation discovered in Brazil in 1937, with better productivity and disease resistance than Bourbon. The tree is shorter, making harvesting convenient, and it has strong adaptability, requiring no shade trees. It can be grown from low altitudes of 700 meters to high altitudes of 1700 meters, with a very wide altitude adaptation range. However, the higher the altitude, the better the flavor, and productivity decreases accordingly.

Catuai is a variety obtained in 1949 through artificial hybridization of Yellow Caturra and Mundo Novo, originally called "H-2077." Catuai has strong resistance to adverse conditions, especially wind and rain. Because the plant is short, double density planting can be used, and its low stature makes pest and disease control relatively easy. Catuai grows vigorously and is short in height, but is susceptible to leaf rust.

Diamond Mountain Series

Diamond Mountain comes from Hacienda La Esmeralda's two highest-yielding and most well-known farms: Jaramillo and Canas Verdes. The coffee cultivation is distributed at altitudes of 1400-1700 meters. Diamond Mountain brand coffee holds Eco-friendly and Rainforest Alliance Certified designations.

Canas Verdes has an annual rainfall of 3500ml, average daytime temperatures of 16-23°C, average nighttime temperatures of 10-15°C, and an average altitude of 1600-1800m. Canas contains 9 sub-plots: Lino, Coronado, Fundador, Leon, Montaa, Trapiche, Chinta, Cabaa, Tumaco.

Jaramillo has an annual rainfall of 4000ml, average daytime temperatures of 19-25°C, average nighttime temperatures of 11-15°C, and an average altitude of 1600-1700m. The Jaramillo plot is subdivided into 5 sub-plots: Mario, Noria, Reina, Bosque, Buenos Aires.

Rainforest Alliance Certified: Farms that meet the standards set by the Rainforest Alliance are evaluated for the protection of the farm and surrounding ecosystems, restrictions on pesticide use, and waste management benchmarks. Only coffee that passes the assessment and obtains certification can be called "Rainforest Alliance Certified Coffee." Because the coffee cultivation process has a low impact on the ecological environment, the Panamanian government has also awarded Diamond Mountain series coffee beans the Eco-friendly ecological label.

Natural Processing Method

The Diamond Mountain coffee beans that Front Street Coffee (FrontStreet Coffee) obtained use the natural processing method. During the natural process, harvested coffee cherries are sent directly to the courtyard for drying. The cherries gradually dry while the coffee beans remain wrapped inside, allowing the beans to absorb a large amount of fruit and aromatic flavors. Depending on weather and site conditions, the coffee cherries are dried on concrete platforms for 3 to 5 days (8 hours per day). Once the cherries have dried to a certain degree, they are placed in a Guardiola drier and rotated for 72 hours to complete drying and prevent fermentation. After drying is complete, the coffee cherries go through mechanical removal of the skin, pulp, and other parts.

Front Street Coffee (FrontStreet Coffee) Green Bean Analysis

After observing the Diamond Mountain natural coffee green beans, Front Street Coffee (FrontStreet Coffee) found that the green beans have a yellowish color, and natural process green beans have more silver skin on the surface. Caturra green beans have a curve at the tail end, and are round and slender; Catuai beans are flat in body with a relatively slender tail end.

Front Street Coffee (FrontStreet Coffee) Roasting Record

Front Street's roaster used a Yangjia 800N semi-direct fire roaster with a batch size of 480g. The drum was preheated to 165°C for charging, heat adjusted to 130, airflow opened to 3, turning point at 1'36", maintaining heat; at 112°C heat remained unchanged, airflow opened to 4, at 127°C heat was raised to 140. At 6'15" the beans turned yellow, the grassy smell disappeared, entering the dehydration phase, at 151°C heat was lowered to 110, airflow maintained at 4.

At 9'00" dehydration was complete, wrinkles and dark patches appeared on the bean surface, the toasty bread smell turned to coffee aroma, signaling the prelude to first crack — at this point, listen carefully for the sound of first crack. At 10'48" first crack began, airflow fully opened to 5, post-first-crack development time was 1'20", and the beans were dropped at 191°C.

Front Street Coffee (FrontStreet Coffee) Cupping Report

Dry Aroma: Citrus, Berries

Wet Aroma: Citrus

Flavor: Citrus, Honey, Cocoa, Fermented Wine Aroma

Through cupping, Front Street learned that this Diamond Mountain natural coffee bean has different layers of experience, and Front Street decided to use the V60 dripper for brewing.

Why does Front Street recommend using the V60 dripper for brewing?

The 60-degree cone design is the source of the "60" in the V60 name. The 60-degree design allows water to flow to the center, extending the contact time between water and coffee. The large aperture at the bottom of the dripper allows control of coffee flavor by changing the flow rate of water. The spiral-shaped grooves allow air to escape upward from all sides, maximizing the expansion of the coffee grounds.

The spiral convex groove design also serves to create compression on the water flowing down, extending the extraction path, increasing the contact time between coffee grounds and water, and avoiding under-extraction caused by the large hole (excessively fast filtration). Compared to a straight-line water flow path (such as the Kono dripper), the water path of the spiral design is clearly much longer. The spiral convex grooves not only extend the contact time between coffee grounds and water but also, as the water level descends, allow water to flow along the spiral convex grooves toward the center point of the dripper, creating compression on the coffee grounds through the gravity of the falling water, forming a higher level of complexity.

Front Street Coffee (FrontStreet Coffee) Brewing Parameters for Diamond Mountain Natural Coffee Beans

Dripper: V60#01

Water Temperature: 90-91°C

Coffee Dose: 15g

Coffee-to-Water Ratio: 1:15

Grind Size: Medium-fine grind (80% passing Chinese standard No. 20 sieve)

Front Street Brewing Method: Three-stage extraction. Use 30g of water for blooming for 30 seconds, pour in a small stream in a circular motion until 125g for the first stage, then when the water level is about to expose the coffee bed, continue pouring until 225g and stop. When the water level is about to expose the coffee bed again, remove the dripper. (Timing starts from the beginning of blooming) Total extraction time: 2'00".

Brewing Flavor: Citrus, bright acidity, nuts, honey, slight fermented note, smooth mouthfeel, cocoa finish.

The above content is compiled by CoffeeHunters, a coffee news website.

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