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Beijing Xishiku 1901Cafe: A Visit to a Distinctive Coffee Shop and Its Menu in a Century-Old Church Annex

December 9, 2015
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In the Xishiku Church complex in Beijing, there is a gray three-story annex built in 1901 that once served as housing for senior clergy. Today, it has been transformed into a young café with plenty of history—1901Cafe. It retains the architectural charm of a blend of Chinese and Western styles while incorporating the comfortable atmosphere of a modern café. This article takes you into this historic building, exploring its past and present, visiting the layouts of the second and third floors, and reviewing menu items such as cheesecake, rose tea, and poutine fries. If you also enjoy having a cup of coffee in old times, you might want to add this place to your next stop.

When it comes to the three characters "Xishiku," the first thing that comes to my mind is the content from my high school modern history textbook. But as for the specific event, for a student who transferred to the liberal arts class only in the second year of high school, my foundation was not solid enough, and my memory could not withstand the polishing of time—thin as a layer, long since mottled by sun and wind. So I dug out the textbook again to verify: it turned out to be the Qing army and Boxer rebels surrounding the Xishiku Church and the Dongjiaominxiang Legation Quarter and launching fierce attacks, which is regarded as an important sign of the Boxer Movement reaching its climax.

"Xishiku Church, originally named the Church of the Savior, is located at No. 33 Xishiku Street, Xicheng District, Beijing. It is a Catholic church that opened in 1703 and long served as the cathedral of the Catholic Diocese of Beijing. It is one of the largest and oldest churches in Beijing. With a blend of Chinese and Western architecture, the main body of the church is a three-story Gothic building topped with 11 spires. Xishiku Church was once the tallest single building in Beijing's inner city."

▲Exterior

Xishiku Church is not just a main hall; it is actually a complete architectural complex. What we are discussing this time is one of its annex buildings. The builder, Mr. Zhang Wenrong, was one of the top Western-style construction contractors in Beijing during the late Qing and early Republic of China periods. Later, he converted to Catholicism and donated this small gray building to the Xishiku Catholic Church. After that, until the Cultural Revolution, it was used as an annex of Xishiku Church and also served as housing for senior clergy. This three-story small building was first built in 1901. It has no Gothic spires or Baroque irregular lines, so the two architectural styles were mixed and innovated, ultimately forming this building, which still stands today.

▲Exterior, unexpectedly photobombed by Shaxian Delicacies

Beijing is a city where you can celebrate traditional festivals in a trendy way, live black-and-white days in color, face tears with a smile, and experience growth with leaps. The former clergy residence and church annex has now been infused with a fashionable core, becoming a young café with age—1901cafe. Even now, I am curious about who its owner is and what kind of person could bravely and with such unique insight take over this place.

Shop name: 1901 Cafe

Average spend: 80

Address: No. 101 Xi'anmen Inner Street, Xicheng District

Recommendation rating: ★★★★★

Last year, I saw this place on the Moments feed of a senior food editor I really admire, Liu Chunlei, and thought she had traveled to Europe. What really surprised me was her—a Beijing native like me actually didn't know this was in Beijing. She also noted that this place and the Duan Qirui Government Building on Zhangzizhong Road echo each other, one east and one west.

Facing love at first sight, why fear the biting winter wind? Let me point out a good route: this place is very close to Guangji Temple. Friends who like cats or are interested in Buddhism can first go to Guangji Temple, where there are many large, affectionate, chubby cats. It would be even better if you could bring some cat food for the little ones. That is also the location of the Buddhist Association of China. Sitting on the temple steps to rest and calm your mind is also a nice way to relax. After that, stroll south and east, and you'll arrive at this café.

▲Bar counter

Pushing open the creaking wooden door, the smell of time rushes over you—one foot still in the present, the other already a hundred years ago. Yellowed light reflects off yellowed wood, and the poetic line "The ancients never saw today's moon, yet today's moon once shone on the ancients" rises in my mind. The old building has seen a century of change, and new youth have fallen in love with its aged face.

On the first floor, just inside the entrance on the left, is the bar counter for ordering. A young man with a northeastern accent and a manager who looks like a typical Beijing street local warmly receive the visitors, passersby, and "pavement guests" (see later) coming and going. Western light meals, coffee and other drinks, and desserts are available for guests. There are only a few scattered seats on the first floor. I believe that after you've looked at the second and third floors, unless there are no seats left, you would never choose the first floor.

▲Steps up to the second floor

Walking up the even creakier steps, it feels as if I've hurt him, and I'm afraid his groans might disturb the guests here.

▲Looking down at the second floor from the stairs to the third floor

Passing the spiral wooden staircases on both sides, you arrive at the spacious second floor, where several large bookshelves and pieces of furniture divide the space. Small sofas, wooden tables and chairs, and dark-toned solid-color furniture give a sense of inner calm and steadiness. The window-side seats with a view must be the coveted throne for everyone—a small lamp radiating warm light illuminates the tiny table and also the guests' faces. The spacious long sofa seats are the ideal choice for couples, sitting close together, whispering softly, watching a movie, or reading a book—the best way to consume time.

▲Window on the second floor

It gradually grew dark, and the evening light filtered in with a touch of desolation. The lonely little flower in the window looked outside, withered vines, old trees, and dusk crows.

▲Large private room on the third floor

Turning around and climbing the creaking stairs step by step, the third floor has a different charm from the second. There are several small private rooms with greater privacy, where you can draw the curtains. Under the slanted ceiling beams, there is a large table, enough to host a small gathering.

▲Third-floor ceiling

After touring the third floor, in my mind, the second floor's feel and seating are more beautiful and charming than the third. The slow, melodious music and softly speaking guests suit someone like me—a "pavement guest," that is, one who lingers and won't leave. At the same time, a reminder for everyone: in the afternoon it's fully occupied, so either come early, or don't leave, or come again near mealtime—by then the afternoon tea guests have left, and there will be seats.

▲Cheesecake 36 yuan

Before coming here, I called the shop and there were no seats, so we hungry and cold ones first ate malatang nearby, and then with what appetite remained ordered a pot of rose milk tea, poutine fries, and my beloved cheesecake. To reward myself for working 13 days straight, and my friend who was frozen for 40 minutes by me (because I was late—I repent).

The cheesecake here is 36 yuan, on the expensive side, and light in color. I thought yogurt had been added, but actually not. The server said it was some kind of cream. I don't do baking and don't understand, so I ask those in the know to enlighten me. The taste is average, not very rich.

▲Rose tea 78

Rose tea is 48 for a large cup and 78 for a pot. I really didn't feel like a pot contained two cups.

▲Poutine fries 38 yuan

This is a snack invented in Quebec in the 1950s. It is said that a truck driver, while eating at a restaurant, asked the owner to mix the small pieces of cheese on the table with his fries. The owner found his request incredible and said, "Ca va faire une maudite poutine" (French, meaning: that will make a damned mess). Later, people named this dish "Poutine," which in French slang means "mixture, hodgepodge." After later evolution, it became poutine: fries topped with salty cheese curds and drizzled with rich hot gravy.

The fries are topped with mozzarella and beef brisket mushroom sauce, plus a slight taste of ketchup. The fries are not greasy and the portion is generous. But I didn't find it delicious. In the end, I asked for ketchup—it still had to be the original pairing.

▲Colorful floor tiles

A pavement guest cannot resist limited time and sometimes has to leave. At the entrance, I noticed the colorful floor tiles on the ground, truly beautiful.

▲Looking out the window from inside the shop door

Standing in the entrance hall, I was reluctant to leave, with a feeling of being swept out the door. This place is not mine; love, too, can only be watched from afar.

▲Storefront after nightfall

Source: Tourism News Network

The above content is compiled by CoffeeHunters, a coffee news website.

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