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An Analysis of Sumatra Mandheling Coffee Flavor Characteristics: A Complete Introduction from Origin and Processing to the Origin of the Name

November 3, 2015
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Mandheling coffee is one of Asia's most prestigious single-origin coffees, produced on the Indonesian island of Sumatra, and renowned for its rich, full-bodied, aromatic, bitter-sweet flavor. This article systematically covers Mandheling's production regions, the origin of its name, flavor characteristics, and processing methods, and introduces derivative varieties such as Golden Mandheling and Aged Mandheling. Whether you are a beginner just getting into single-origin coffee or a seasoned enthusiast in search of a full-bodied cup, you will come to understand why Mandheling is regarded as one of the world's most full-bodied coffees, and its legendary journey from an accidental naming during wartime to its craze in Japan.

Sumatra Mandheling DP Coffee Beans

Mandheling coffee's production region is located in Sumatra, Indonesia, in Asia, which is why it is also called "Sumatra coffee." Its flavor is quite intense, combining aroma, bitterness, and body, with a hint of sweetness. Most coffee lovers choose to drink it as a single-origin coffee, and it is also an indispensable bean in coffee blends.

In an era when Blue Mountain coffee was not yet widely known, Mandheling was once recognized as one of the world's top-quality premium coffees. After roasting, the beans are relatively large; the green beans appear brown or dark green, giving off a distinctive caramel-like aroma. On the palate it is rich and full-bodied, with pronounced bitterness and mild acidity. Due to relatively limited production, its price is usually slightly higher than ordinary coffee beans.

Production Region

Mandheling Coffee Production Region Mandheling coffee is produced in Sumatra, Indonesia, in Asia, and is also known as "Sumatra coffee." The main production areas include Java, Sulawesi, and Sumatra, of which about ninety percent is Robusta. The "Mandheling" produced on Sumatra is the most famous. Among the fine traditional Arabica coffees produced in northern Sumatra, the best quality ones enter the market under the two names Lintong and Mandheling. Strictly speaking, Lintong refers to coffee grown in a small area in the southwestern part of Lake Toba, in the Lintong administrative district. Local coffee-growing areas are scattered, located on high, undulating clay plateaus densely covered with ferns. Lintong coffee is not shade-grown and uses no chemicals, and is almost entirely held by smallholders. Mandheling, on the other hand, is a broader designation covering Lintong coffee as well as the similarly conditioned Diari (capital: Sidikalang) and the northern Lake Toba growing areas.

Origin of the Name

Mandheling is neither a production region name, a place name, a port name, nor a coffee variety name—so where exactly did this name come from?

In fact, it is a mispronounced transliteration of the Indonesian Mandailing people.

During World War II, when Japan occupied Indonesia, a Japanese soldier drank an exceptionally aromatic cup of coffee at a certain café and asked the owner for the name of the coffee. The owner mistakenly thought he was asking "Where are you from?" and replied: Mandailing. After the war, the Japanese soldier recalled the "Mandheling" he had drunk in Indonesia and commissioned an Indonesian coffee trader to ship 15 tons to Japan, where it became hugely popular. The name Mandheling spread in this way, and that coffee trader was none other than the now-famous PWN Coffee Company (PWN).

The well-known Mandheling is produced around Lake Toba in northern Sumatra. The finished cup has a distinctive herbal and forest freshness.

Golden Mandheling: More than a decade ago, the Japanese adopted stricter quality-control standards, hand-sorting the beans four times to remove defective beans, producing Golden Mandheling with a dark green color and uniform bean appearance. This opened up new market demand, and even the European and American markets eagerly sought it.

Aged Mandheling: Characterized by a honey-like sweetness. A successfully aged bean smooths away the less elegant acidity in Mandheling; the sour, astringent components transform into sugars through aging, making the coffee rounder and sweeter on the palate. A failed Aged Mandheling, however, is like a coffee zombie, with a taste that is hard to accept.

Characteristics

Mandheling Coffee Its flavor is very intense, combining aroma, bitterness, and body, with a touch of sweetness. Most coffee lovers drink it as a single-origin coffee, but it is equally an indispensable variety when blending coffee.

Mandheling has a heavy taste, with rich body and a lush, lively dynamism—neither astringent nor sour, fully expressing both body and bitterness. Mandheling coffee beans may be the ugliest in appearance, but coffee fans often say that the worse-looking the Sumatra beans, the better, richer, and smoother the taste. Mandheling is regarded as the world's most full-bodied coffee; on tasting, you can feel a distinct lubricity on the tongue, along with low acidity, yet this acidity can still be clearly perceived. The lively mild acidity blends with the richest aroma, allowing one to easily sense the lively element within the gentle richness. In addition, this coffee has a faint earthy fragrance, which some also describe as an herbal aroma.

Since Mandheling coffee beans inherently lack acidity, in some special brewing methods Mandheling beans are often used as a base; even with prolonged warming or when making iced coffee, no unpleasant sour or astringent taste emerges.

After roasting, the beans are relatively large; the green beans are brown or dark green, with a distinctive caramel-like aroma and a rich, full-bodied taste.

Processing

Sellers often label Lintong and Mandheling coffee as dry-processed. In reality, however, the locals often separate the pulp from the coffee seeds through a combination of methods, the more common being a backyard-style wet process. Clever farmers put freshly picked coffee cherries into a crude pulper assembled from scrap metal, wood, and bicycle parts. The pulped, sticky beans are then placed in plastic woven bags to ferment overnight. The next morning, the fermented, softened pulp and mucilage are washed off by hand. The coffee, still wrapped in its silver skin, is spread on boards in the front yard to pre-dry, then sent to a middleman's warehouse to remove the silver skin and dry further. Finally, the coffee is trucked to the port of Medan (the capital of Sumatra), where the third and final drying takes place.

Other reports state that in other Mandheling production areas, after the skin is removed, the mucilage is allowed to dry on the beans, similar to Brazil's semi-washed process. The dried mucilage and silver skin are then removed by machine. Finally, it likewise undergoes two-stage drying, first at the middleman's warehouse, then at the exporter's warehouse in the port of Medan.

The processing and Sumatra's distinctive character. I describe these processes in such detail because it is still unclear to what extent the soil, the atmosphere, the unusual processing techniques, and the three-stage drying each contribute to shaping the character of Lintong and Mandheling coffees. The only certainty is that these processes occasionally produce extremely good coffee, while also being extremely inconsistent. Only the ruthless sorting at the exporters' warehouses in the port of Medan can ensure that the deep texture and distinctive, understated richness of Lintong and Mandheling stand out from the interference of other off-flavors.

Source

The Gentleman of Coffees—Sumatra Mandheling Mandheling is a premium coffee bean grown on highland mountain slopes at 750–1,500 meters above sea level.

In the 17th century, the Dutch first introduced Arabica seedlings to Ceylon (today's Sri Lanka) and Indonesia. In 1877, a large-scale disaster struck the Indonesian islands; coffee leaf rust devastated nearly all the coffee trees, forcing people to abandon the Arabica they had cultivated for years and instead introduce disease-resistant Robusta coffee trees from Africa. Today, Indonesia is a major coffee-producing country, with production mainly in Java, Sumatra, and Sulawesi, where Robusta accounts for 90 percent of total output. Sumatra Mandheling, however, belongs to the rare Arabica category. These trees are planted on hillsides between 750 and 1,500 meters above sea level. The mysterious and distinctive Sumatra variety gives Mandheling coffee its rich aroma, full body, intense flavor, and slight chocolate and syrupy notes. Mandheling coffee beans are relatively large and hard, prone to defects during cultivation, and usually require strict hand-sorting after harvesting. If the control process is not strict enough, quality can easily vary widely, and different roasting levels also directly affect the taste, making it a single-origin coffee with considerable controversy.

Mandheling Coffee

The most famous coffee-producing areas in Asia are the islands of the Malay Archipelago: Sumatra, Java, and Borneo. Among them, the Sumatra Mandheling coffee produced on the Indonesian island of Sumatra is the most renowned, with two famous grades: Sumatra Mandheling DP Grade 1 and Vintage Sumatra Mandheling. Sumatra Mandheling DP Grade 1 has a long finish with a wild mountain fragrance—the earthy scent unique to primeval forests. In addition to the full-bodied taste characteristic of Indonesian coffee, it has a bittersweet flavor, sometimes mixed with a faint mustiness, and is deeply loved by those who enjoy heavily roasted coffee. Vintage Sumatra Mandheling coffee is called "Vintage" because it is stored in cellars for three years before export. But vintage coffee is by no means stale coffee; rather, it is a specially processed, slightly pale coffee that is more intense, with reduced acidity but increased body and a longer finish, carrying a rich spicy note—sometimes tart, sometimes walnut-like, sometimes chocolate-like. Before Blue Mountain coffee was discovered, Mandheling was once regarded as the finest of coffees.

The above content is compiled by CoffeeHunters, a coffee news website.

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