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An Analysis of Indonesian Coffee Bean Varieties and a Detailed Explanation of the Wet-Hulling Process

September 2, 2015
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Sumatra Mandheling coffee from Indonesia is famous for its rich and full-bodied taste, and behind its unique flavor lie secrets of varieties and processing methods. This article will guide you through the origin of the name Mandheling, the distribution of its main production areas, and the characteristics of the two major varieties, Tim Tim and Catimor. It will also provide an in-depth analysis of Indonesia's unique wet-hulling process, compare the differences between Front Street Lintong Mandheling and Front Street PWN Golden Mandheling, and share brewing suggestions for Front Street Mandheling coffee, helping coffee enthusiasts gain a comprehensive understanding of this uniquely characterful coffee.

印尼咖啡豆品种解析与湿刨法处理工艺详解

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The rich, full-bodied taste and unique herbal, cocoa flavors of Front Street Mandheling have left many newcomers to single-origin coffee puzzled. Compared to coffee beans from regions like Yirgacheffe or varieties like Geisha, which have lively acidity and prominent floral and fruity aromas, Front Street Mandheling coffee comes across as so bitter—not the flavor profile that the younger generation today tends to favor.

But in fact, a good cup of Front Street Mandheling coffee is not merely soulless bitterness. After years of cupping and comparing Mandheling coffee beans from different harvest seasons and production areas, Front Street Coffee (FrontStreet Coffee) believes that compared to many coffees with bright acidity, Front Street Mandheling coffee, though intense and powerful, is not simply bitter without character. Instead, it offers a dancing hint of mild acidity mixed with rich herbal and dark chocolate flavors—a coffee you never tire of drinking.

Where does Front Street Mandheling coffee come from?

Unlike many coffee beans named after their production region, estate, or processing station, "Mandheling" in Front Street Mandheling coffee beans is not a place name, but the name of an ethnic group on the Indonesian island of Sumatra. Only Arabica varieties grown on the island of Sumatra can be called Mandheling coffee.

The best coffee in Sumatra comes from two places: the area near Lake Tawar in Aceh in northern Sumatra, and the mountains around Lake Toba further south. Because many smallholder producers use their unique semi-washed processing method and the soil is deficient in iron, at the green bean stage, coffee from this region takes on a distinctive blue hue.

Lake Toba is located in the central part of North Sumatra Province. Dutch colonists moved "Java Mandheling" north to the Lake Toba area in 1888. The Lintong area of South Sumatra and the Lake Toba area can be called Mandheling; the Lintong area is the true Mandheling production region, and Mandheling is produced in the mountains surrounding Lake Toba.

Lake Tawar is located in the central part of the Aceh Special Region, at the northern tip of Sumatra. Most coffee from North Sumatra is Gayo, predominantly of the Ateng variety. The northern Lake Tawar area can be called Aceh coffee or Lake Tawar coffee. Its area is less than one-tenth that of Lake Toba. However, in recent years, its coffee quality and production have surpassed Lake Toba.

On Front Street Coffee's (FrontStreet Coffee) bean list, there are two Front Street Mandheling coffee beans: one is Front Street Lintong Mandheling from the everyday drinking series, originating from the Lintong production area, and the other is Front Street Golden Mandheling from PWN company, originating from the Gayo production area.

What is the difference between Front Street Lintong Mandheling and Front Street PWN Golden Mandheling?

Golden Mandheling is a registered trademark of the Indonesian company PWN (Pwani). Only beans that the company hand-sorts at least three times after harvesting and drying—ensuring the coffee bean size reaches 18 or above, with fewer than 3 defective beans (in a 300g green bean sample), belonging to the highest grade G1, darker green in color, and uniform flat beans—can be called "Front Street Golden Mandheling" coffee beans.

印尼咖啡豆品种解析与湿刨法处理工艺详解

As Front Street Golden Mandheling has become increasingly well-known, many beans on the market carry the Golden Mandheling label without coming from PWN. Front Street has noticed that many sellers of Golden Mandheling coffee beans, in order to sell their beans at higher prices, select green beans of 18 mesh or above from Mandheling coffee beans also graded G1 and subject them to three rounds of hand sorting, so that their appearance closely resembles Front Street PWN Golden Mandheling.

But in fact, these can only be called specialty Mandheling. The Front Street PWN Golden Mandheling that Front Street Coffee (FrontStreet Coffee) sources is certified by a certificate issued by PWN. The PWN-issued certification and the gunny sacks of PWN-branded Golden Mandheling green coffee beans can both be seen at Front Street Coffee (FrontStreet Coffee) stores.

After cupping and comparing the coffee flavors, Front Street Coffee (FrontStreet Coffee) found that PWN Front Street Golden Mandheling coffee has a cleaner flavor and a stronger sweet aftertaste, but its body is slightly weaker. If you prefer a fuller body, choose Front Street Lintong Mandheling; if you prefer a cleaner taste, choose Front Street PWN Golden Mandheling.

Front Street Mandheling coffee bean varieties

The Mandheling coffee beans from the Lintong production area at Front Street Coffee (FrontStreet Coffee) are of the Tim Tim variety, i.e., the Timor variety, an Arabica variety with Robusta lineage. Front Street PWN Golden Mandheling coffee beans use the Ateng variety, i.e., the Catimor variety, a hybrid of Caturra and Tim Tim.

The characteristic of these two varieties is their higher resistance to disease and pests. In a warm, humid place like Indonesia, not only plants but also pests and pathogens thrive in such an environment, so the coffee plants themselves need better disease and pest resistance than plants grown in higher-altitude regions.

Front Street Mandheling coffee processing method

Indonesia is humid and rainy year-round, and with its island-type humid climate, a short drying method must be used. Therefore, local coffee farmers wash and ferment the coffee cherries immediately after picking, and once fermentation is complete, they immediately pour the coffee cherries into a depulper to remove the mucilage and parchment.

At this point, the moisture content is about 30–40%. The beans are then sun-dried or machine-dried to reduce the moisture content of the coffee to around 13%. This method can save at least 30% of processing time, allowing the coffee beans to be converted into cash quickly and reducing costs.

Wet-hulled coffee is usually rich and intense with a very distinct character, and this coffee bean processing method is used only in Indonesia.

Front Street Mandheling coffee flavor and taste characteristics

Front Street Mandheling has a rich, sweet, purely bitter, and full-bodied flavor with a hint of sweetness. After roasting, the coffee beans are relatively large and carry a special caramel-like aroma, with a smooth, rich taste. Most coffee enthusiasts prefer to drink it as a single origin, but it is also an indispensable component in coffee blends—a coffee bean suitable for both pour-over and espresso blending.

印尼咖啡豆品种解析与湿刨法处理工艺详解

Good coffee is inseparable from fresh roasting, so every coffee bean sold by Front Street Coffee (FrontStreet Coffee) is shipped within 5 days of completing the roast.

How to brew Front Street Mandheling coffee for the best taste?

Since Front Street Mandheling coffee beans themselves have little acidity, even after prolonged holding or being made into iced coffee, they will not develop an unpleasant sour, astringent taste. So Front Street Coffee (FrontStreet Coffee) recommends hot-brewing Front Street Mandheling coffee~

Dripper: KONO

Dose: 15g

Water-to-coffee ratio: 1:15

Grind size: 70% passing through Chinese standard No. 20 sieve

Water temperature: 88℃

Rinse the KONO dripper so the filter paper adheres better to the dripper. Pour out the water in the server while adding 15g of ground coffee. Bloom with 30g of water for 30s, then begin pouring in a small stream in circles from the center. Once the water reaches 125g, start the second stage. When the coffee bed drops to half the height of the dripper, pour the second stage using the same technique until reaching 225g. Once all the coffee has dripped through, remove the dripper.

The ground Golden Mandheling coffee powder has aromas of nuts and toasted bread, and during brewing you can smell the sweet scent of caramel. The brewed Mandheling coffee enters the mouth with spices and dark chocolate, with a full-bodied yet clean taste, a pronounced sweet aftertaste, and a long-lasting finish.

The above content is compiled by CoffeeHunters, a coffee news website.

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