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What Specialty Coffee Really Means, From Green Coffee Beans to Cup

January 27, 2022
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What does specialty coffee mean beyond the green coffee beans?

Specialty coffee is not defined by beans alone. The roaster must study each lot's variety, processing method, moisture content, growing altitude, and regional flavor, then build a roasting curve that suits it. The brewer must also read the roasted bean's condition and control extraction. Robusta or Arabica can both qualify if their strengths are properly presented in the cup.

The word specialty refers to professional interpretation, not to bean grade on its own. Roasting a raw coffee bean into a pleasant flavor is the hard part, and the raw coffee bean meaning here is simply an unroasted seed whose potential depends on handling. Following trends blindly, or roasting light just to seem different, tends to produce harsh, unbalanced results rather than clarity.

The definition of specialty coffee goes far beyond the coffee beans themselves; it depends more on whether the roaster and brewer can interpret the characteristics of each bean from a professional perspective. This article explores the core of specialty coffee: from green bean variety, processing method, moisture content to roasting curve, and then to the precise control of extraction parameters, emphasizing that only by fully understanding and catering to the personality of the coffee beans can a cup of specialty coffee with balanced flavor and no jarring notes be presented. Whether Robusta or Arabica, as long as its strengths are properly showcased, it can become specialty. The article also points out that blindly following brewing trends or ignoring basic extraction principles cannot achieve true specialty coffee.

The core meaning of the word "specialty" in specialty coffee actually lies in the roaster having sufficient knowledge of the coffee beans, and the brewer also thoroughly understanding the state presented by the roasted beans. It is absolutely not about roasting for the sake of roasting and brewing for the sake of brewing once you get a bag of beans.

Roasting coffee beans is not difficult; what is truly difficult is roasting green beans into a pleasant flavor. For example, if you have a premium cabbage, some people would think: it's just cabbage, blanch it in boiling water and that's it; while others would examine its variety, freshness, and fiber thickness, realize it is a high-quality ingredient, and carefully cook it into the famous state banquet dish "Boiled Cabbage." The same goes for green coffee beans. If a roaster, after getting the beans, neither observes the freshness of the green beans nor carefully understands the variety, processing method, moisture content, growing altitude, and regional flavor, but rashly adopts their own "signature" roasting style, or regardless of everything, insists on being different and roasting light to showcase more flavor layers... Have they considered the beans' feelings? They worked hard to grow into the quality you expected, and just like that they get casually roasted?

Every coffee bean should have a roasting method that matches it, rather than just being thrown into the roaster and roasted until done. The variety of the coffee bean determines the bean shape and size, which in turn affects the roaster's drum speed; the variety also determines the basic flavor direction of the coffee; the moisture content determines the length of the drying phase during roasting. Insufficient drying can easily lead to underdeveloped beans, giving the coffee a raw, astringent taste; the growing altitude relates to the density of the bean itself. The higher the altitude, the greater the density, and the more prone it is to uneven heating and underdevelopment; the region and processing method give the coffee bean its unique flavor. Do not assume that the lighter the roast, the more pronounced the flavor layers—this is not true! Acidity, sweetness, and bitterness all require specific temperatures to manifest; they do not appear just because you want them to. In addition, the turning point, yellowing point, first crack time, development time after first crack, etc. during roasting—what effects do they have on flavor expression? If you do not understand any of these, and are unwilling to learn, research, and delve into even the most basic roasting knowledge, then what is the point of talking about specialty coffee beans? What is the point of talking about specialty coffee?

There was once a saying circulating online: "High-end ingredients often only require the simplest cooking methods." The same principle applies to brewing coffee. It is not that the fancier the technique, the better the coffee tastes, nor is it "I saw competition baristas brew it this way... I'll just copy it." All brewing rules are inseparable from the basic extraction principles and from a deep understanding of the bag of coffee beans in your hand that has already been reasonably and appropriately roasted. Merely replicating techniques will not brew a good cup of coffee.

It can even be said somewhat extremely: once a competition barista switches to beans that are not from the competition batch, even if it is the same coffee, brewing with the competition technique and parameters may not produce a good-tasting cup. Moreover, competition baristas often try to highlight a certain flavor in the coffee to impress the judges right away—they are facing professional judges. In daily life, however, baristas face ordinary consumers, and the public needs a cup of coffee with balanced flavor and no unpleasant experience, not a cup that highlights a flavor but tastes like something in the front and nothing in the back, or has a full-flavored front but develops an unclean mouthfeel after slightly cooling down.

No matter what kind of coffee beans, as long as they can ultimately present a balanced and non-jarring flavor after extraction is complete, that is a cup of specialty coffee. Every coffee bean has strengths and weaknesses. Highlighting the strengths while ignoring the weaknesses will instead magnify the weaknesses, and that cannot be considered specialty coffee. Even if the beans themselves are of poor quality and poor flavor, they still have their own strengths. Robusta coffee beans can also become specialty coffee; the key is simply whether people have showcased their strengths.

What a roaster should do is study the roasting parameters suitable for these beans, rather than immediately blaming the coffee beans' quality when the roast does not taste good. Nothing succeeds on the first try; the process requires constant trial and error. Even if you succeed once, it does not mean you will succeed every time afterward. After all, the condition of the coffee beans varies, so roasting will differ, and this requires observation and adjustment in every roast. Those who clearly know there is a problem after roasting yet still force themselves to serve or sell it—please do not label it with the words "specialty coffee."

The same goes for baristas. Before having sufficient understanding of basic extraction principles, do not blindly follow trends in studying brewing techniques. If you do not even understand the coffee beans in your hand, how can you find the right water temperature, grind size, coffee-to-water ratio, and pouring method? Different drippers also have different extraction principles. If you do not even understand these most basic things, how can you talk about brewing techniques? Without an extraction method suited to the coffee beans themselves, how can there be specialty coffee?

The True Essence of Specialty Coffee: Professional Interpretation and the Art of Balance from Green Bean to Cup

"Specialty coffee requires people to cater to the coffee beans, not the coffee beans catering to people."

A rough diamond placed before people may go unrecognized by some, but a polished diamond placed before people is known to all. The difference between being ignored and being admired by everyone is precisely the craftsman's understanding and shaping of the diamond. By polishing and shaping the purest essence of the diamond to reveal its sparkling appearance, there will be people who appreciate it~ The same goes for coffee beans.

Specialty or not, what makes the difference is interpreting the object's own strengths from a professional angle. Coffee is just coffee; whether it is specialty or not depends on whether the person interpreting it can present the pure side of the coffee in a balanced way through a professional perspective.

Image source: Internet

For professional coffee knowledge exchange and more coffee bean information, please follow Coffee Workshop (WeChat public account: cafe_style)

For more specialty coffee beans, please add the private WeChat of Front Street Coffee (FrontStreet Coffee), WeChat ID: kaixinguoguo0925

The above content is compiled by CoffeeHunters, a coffee news website.

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