Aroma vs. fragrance: the difference in coffee and Dong Ding oolong
Deep-fermented Dong Ding oolong is made through enzymatic oxidation, so the leaves take on orange-brown edges and a sweet, fruity character instead of the light floral style common in Taiwan. The process moves through internal and external oxidation stages, and few producers still carry it out because it demands long stirring and heavy labor.
Compared with Phoenix Dancong, deep-fermented Dong Ding leans toward a richer, more complex mouthfeel, while Dancong keeps a brighter, varietal aroma. The distinction between aroma and fragrance matters here: aroma refers to the broader volatile impression, fragrance to the specific lifted note. Reduced rainfall in 2018 also concentrated leaf flavor in that year's batches.
Taiwanese oolong tea is widely popular for its lightly fermented, refreshing style, but traditional deep-fermented Dong Ding oolong has a completely different flavor profile. This article starts with the fermentation process, compares the essential differences in taste between Phoenix Dan Cong and Dong Ding oolong, and provides an in-depth analysis of how deep-fermented oolong tea forms its unique fruity aroma and rich mouthfeel through two stages: internal oxidation and external oxidation. The article also introduces the changes in tea flavor brought about by reduced rainfall in 2018, as well as reservation information for two specialty oolong teas from Alishan and Dong Ding Mountain. For those who love exploring the depth of oolong tea flavors, this is a craftsmanship and tasting guide worth reading carefully.
We procure oolong tea in Taiwan. In 2018, due to reduced rainfall, we noticed that the tea leaves generally had a more intense flavor. My tea maker was very happy and kept smiling. This year, in addition to our standard products, we also discovered two specialty oolong teas from Alishan and Dong Ding Mountain, which brought us unique and distinctive flavors. We decided to introduce them on a reservation basis. Reservations end on September 12.
For us, it is important to select good batches before blending
Deep-fermented Dong Ding oolong tea with a rich floral aroma
About deep-fermented Dong Ding oolong tea
In recent years, light fermentation has become the symbol of Taiwanese oolong tea. In the tea industry, the term "fermentation" refers to the enzymatic oxidation. After light fermentation, the tea has a rich floral aroma and a mellow taste. Taiwanese oolong tea is deeply loved by tea enthusiasts for its easy-drinking taste.
On the other hand, Dong Ding oolong tea is made using a deep fermentation process. In Taiwan, it is also called traditional Dong Ding oolong. The fresh tea leaves undergo multiple stirrings and a longer fermentation period. One of the characteristics of traditional oolong tea is the orange-brown edges of the tea leaves. It has a unique sweet fruity flavor and a rich, complex mouthfeel. Unfortunately, very few manufacturers currently produce traditional-style deep-fermented oolong tea. This is precisely because such a long fermentation process requires a great deal of labor and is labor-intensive. Today, it is rarely produced in Taiwan.
The special fermentation produces a complex flavor and gives an amazingly refreshing floral aroma
In fact, the deep-fermented Dong Ding oolong tea we introduced during the reservation is a premium grade. Unlike traditional classic oolong tea, this particular oolong tea has a fresh floral aroma. Interestingly, its taste is rich and complex, just like traditional Dong Ding oolong tea. I will explain how this tea is made in the next paragraph.
Two-stage fermentation
The fermentation process of oolong tea is divided into two stages: internal oxidation and external oxidation. Ordinary lightly fermented Taiwanese oolong tea undergoes only the internal oxidation of enzymatic fermentation. Since the overall color of the tea leaves remains green, lightly fermented oolong tea is often mistaken for green tea.
On the other hand, deep-fermented (traditional) Dong Ding oolong, Oriental Beauty, and Phoenix Dan Cong oolong undergo external oxidation in addition to internal oxidation. As a result, the edges of the tea leaves turn orange and give a fruity taste. According to the manufacturer, they call it "hang fu nei" for internal oxidation and "hang chu pi" for external oxidation.
Interestingly, if the tea leaves only undergo internal oxidation and remain green, then no matter how intense the internal oxidation is, it can still emit a floral aroma. Once the edges of the tea leaves turn orange-red, it indicates that external oxidation has occurred, and the tea leaves develop a fruity aroma. Whether oxidation occurs internally or externally is determined by factors such as the frequency of stirring, the withering time, the moisture content of the tea leaves, the relative humidity, and the ambient temperature.
When making deep-fermented Dong Ding oolong tea, the indoor temperature and humidity are strictly controlled, and air conditioning is used. The tea maker closely monitors the temperature and humidity to slow down the fermentation. As a result, they extend the internal oxidation to the limit.
Traditionally, a rich mouthfeel is accompanied by a fruity taste. The special deep-fermented Dong Ding, due to its unique processing, gives a very rich wine-like flavor but still carries a strong floral aroma. It may give you a new perspective on the tea-drinking experience.
The above content is compiled by CoffeeHunters, a coffee news website.
