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Brazilian Coffee History and the Daterra Sweet Collection for the Coffee Roaster

August 26, 2021
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How Did Brazilian Coffee Shed Its Mild Reputation?

Brazil is the largest coffee producer and exporter, supplying more than 30 percent of global output, yet its coffee long carried a reputation for being mild and short on character. The turning point came in the 1990s, when a quality push and the pulped natural method let farms show sweeter, cleaner profiles. Fazenda Daterra's Sweet Collection is the clearest example of that shift.

The blend combines four varieties Daterra calls its sweet kings: Yellow Bourbon, Yellow Catuai, Mundo Novo and Icatú 3282. Each is picked on a different schedule after ripening, from the first red day to the third or fifth, based on sweetness testing, and processing mixes natural and pulped natural methods. Danish baristas Troels Poulsen in 2005 and Klaus Thomsen in 2006 won the World Barista Championship using it as a base.

Brazil is the world's largest coffee producer and exporter, with coffee output accounting for more than 30% of the global total, yet for a long time it has given the impression of being mild, smooth, and lacking in character. Starting from the history and culture of Brazilian coffee, this article reviews the evolution of its topography and climate, variety characteristics, and processing methods, focusing on how the quality revolution of the 1990s gave rise to the pulped natural method, and how Fazenda Daterra broke the stereotype of Brazilian coffee's mediocrity through technology-driven management and its "Sweet Collection." The article also retains the "Front Street" brand recommendations and product information, making it suitable for coffee enthusiasts who want to gain an in-depth understanding of the flavor code of Brazilian coffee.

After two decades of variety research and development and field cultivation, and through repeated screening and vetting by researchers, a blended coffee capable of shaking the specialty coffee world—"Daterra Sweet Collection"—was finally born.

Its achievements are enough to make people see Brazilian coffee in a new light. The renowned Danish barista Troels Poulsen won the 2005 World Barista Championship precisely with the espresso blend of "Daterra Sweet Collection." In 2006, Klaus Thomsen likewise used "Daterra Sweet Collection" as the base bean, paired with coffee from Costa Rica's La Minita estate, to win the World Barista Championship again.

All the effort was ultimately not in vain, and "Sweet Collection" lived up to the painstaking efforts of its founder—Norberto, of Italian descent. Yellow Bourbon, Yellow Catuai, Mundo Novo, and Icatú 3282 are known as Daterra's four great "sweet" kings, and together they make up this super-sweet blended coffee. These four varieties have different harvest periods after ripening; some are picked on the first day they turn red, while others are delayed until the third or even fifth day when they are fully ripe, entirely based on scientific data from sweetness testing, and the processing methods combine natural and pulped natural. In other words, the four kings of "Sweet Collection" differ in both ripeness and processing method. Daterra's innovative practice of customizing flavor for coffee starting from the growing stage is refreshing to the world and also showcases Brazil's impressive coffee technology.

The story of Brazilian coffee has continued from the 19th century to this day. From traditional plantations to modern production models, Brazil has continuously supplied the world with rich and mellow coffee, while also writing the glory of Brazilian coffee. Today, let us share a cup of fragrant, mellow coffee with this vibrant nation.

When we taste a cup of coffee, the reason we come to like it or remember it must be that some unique flavor has moved us. Perhaps it is the fresh floral aroma and fruity acidity, such as Ethiopia's Yirgacheffe; perhaps it is rich and deep, such as Indonesia's Mandheling; or perhaps, like Monsooned coffee, you know exactly what it is from the first sniff. But there is one kind of coffee that, even if you have encountered it many times, its flavor is hard to leave a deep impression on you, yet you cannot ignore its existence—and that is Brazilian coffee.

Brazil is known as the coffee kingdom and is the world's largest coffee producer and exporter, with coffee output alone accounting for more than 30% of the global total; one-sixth of the world's coffee is produced here. Brazil is also the world's second-largest coffee consumer after the United States, with about 300,000 farmers engaged in coffee cultivation. It has borne the heavy responsibility of Brazil's economic development while also influencing the development of the global coffee industry. After all, the vast majority of instant coffee uses Brazilian coffee as its main raw material.

Although Brazil's annual coffee output reaches 30% to 35% of the global total, ranking first in the world, unfortunately, no Brazilian bean can be called top-tier coffee. Coffee trees spread across mountains and plains are distributed in Brazil's southern producing regions. Compared with other coffee-producing countries in Central and South America, Brazil's altitude is noticeably lower, with farm elevations mostly around 600–1,000 meters. Even in the three major specialty-producing regions of South Minas, Cerrado, and Mogiana, elevations rarely exceed 1,300 meters. Brazil's terrain is too flat and monotonous for coffee cultivation, lacking the microclimates that can endow coffee with rich flavor factors, and is therefore more suitable for growing Caturra, Mundo Novo, and Catuai, which do not require shade.

There are many types of Brazilian coffee. Characteristics of Brazilian coffee beans are not very stunning; they do not have particularly outstanding advantages, nor do they have obvious disadvantages. Characteristics of Brazilian coffee Most are medium-acidity, smooth in mouthfeel, and mainly feature mildness, smoothness, good body, and ample sweetness. Its softness means that when blended with other coffee beans, the flavor will not change too much; moreover, it is relatively rich in oils. Therefore, Brazilian coffee beans are most suitable for blending with other coffee beans to make espresso. It can form a golden crema on the surface of espresso and give the coffee a slightly acidic taste and a long finish. In fact, the blended coffees operated by all large coffee roasters contain some coffee beans produced in Brazil.

If we regard coffee as a beautiful piece of clothing, what we value is its material and the tailoring and workmanship that match it. Then coffee beans themselves are like fabric; the level of quality has already been determined by the geographical environment in which they grew, and what can enhance them depends on the picking and processing methods of the coffee fruit.

Although Brazil is one of the countries with the most abundant freshwater resources in the world, water resources are unevenly distributed, and many regions rely on rainfall for water. Especially in the east, where coffee cultivation is relatively concentrated, severe droughts often occur, and scarce water resources limit coffee processing methods. Before 1990, Brazil almost entirely used the rough natural method, and quality varied greatly, because during the two-to-three-week drying process, if Brazilian coffee fruits encountered rain and became damp again, or if the fruits were cracked or damaged, they would mold and produce off-flavors. This also reduced Brazilian beans to a byword for mid-to-low quality. As the world's largest coffee-producing country, how could it be willing to accept such a reputation? In order to improve quality and reverse its image, Brazil carried out a quality revolution in the 1990s, vigorously promoting the pulped natural method that was unique in the world.

Based on Brazil's relatively monotonous climate characteristics, Brazilian research institutions developed the pulped natural method to shorten processing time. After the coffee fruit is depulped, the pods covered in mucilage are sun-dried for one to three days, then machine-dried to a moisture content of 12%, after which they can be placed in storage containers. Brazil's pulped natural method greatly shortens working time (the traditional natural method takes two to three weeks) and also reduces the chance of coffee beans developing off-flavors, so quality is greatly improved. Moreover, the pulped natural method also inherits the natural method's advantage of enhancing sweetness, while lacking the unpleasant earthy taste, and strengthens fruity aroma and sweetness. It is most suitable for single-origin coffee. The pulped natural method thus became an essential "outfit" for Brazilian specialty beans and won praise from international coffee experts.

The reforms achieved results and increased the confidence of coffee estate operators. Brazilian coffee farms choose natural, pulped natural, washed, semi-washed, or the honey process that has been very popular in the specialty coffee world in recent years, according to their dry and humid climate conditions, in order to present the best flavor of the region. For example, the Cerrado in the central-west of Minas, with extremely low humidity, still mainly uses the natural method to this day. Estates there believe that only with strict control can the natural method best highlight Cerrado's characteristic nutty flavor and sweetness, and in Cerrado the pulped natural method has instead become a supporting player. Estates in South Minas are the most inclusive, choosing pulped natural, natural, and washed respectively. Brazil's choice of processing methods is so diverse that, apart from Ethiopia, coffee's original home, it would be rare in the world to rival it!

I say all this because many people think Brazilian coffee exists only as office coffee or old-people coffee. Do not define it too early. At this point, I would like to ask you to first drink a cup of Sweet Collection from Fazenda Daterra. It will surely break the mediocre impression Brazilian coffee has in your mind. This Brazilian coffee has a pronounced sweetness that you cannot ignore—the sweetness of caramel, the sweetness of maple syrup. In addition to still maintaining Brazilian coffee's balanced, moderate mouthfeel, because it is a multi-variety blend, it enhances rich layering and body. In particular, you can clearly feel a soft yet unique acidity, which is rare in ordinary Brazilian coffee, and it also overcomes Brazilian coffee's weak point of having no finish.

It was not easy for this Brazilian coffee to come into being. In 1974, Brazil's national treasure, Fazenda Daterra, was founded in the Patrocínio area of the central-west Cerrado in Minas Gerais. It is a technology-driven coffee estate group, with multiple coffee estates under it distributed across five producing areas in Cerrado and Mogiana. Then, according to each region's altitude, climate, soil, and microclimate, the most suitable varieties are selected for planting, thereby maximizing the aromatic substances of each variety. Only after expert cupping and comparison are natural or pulped natural processing methods chosen, in order to bring out each variety's most abundant sweetness elves.

The above content is compiled by CoffeeHunters, a coffee news website.

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